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brandon p

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northeast Oklahoma
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing, making my own iron & steel, hiking/bushcraft, old ways of doing things. My day job.

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  1. I believe the going only with one or two normalizing cycles would be the most difficult thing to get used to at least for me. I believe the benefit of a brine quench is that the salt helps keep the vapor jacket from forming so easily and provides a more even quench than just water alone. How much hotter do you all go when quenching bloomery steel, versus a monosteel blade of the same carbon percentage?
  2. Definitely interesting formations!
  3. I would be interested in doing a WIP smelt with this ore. I plan on at least two smelts this fall, one with a proven ore and another experimental.
  4. That is a nice looking ingot! Does this one have nickel in it as well? I hope it makes it through the forging!
  5. First let me say seeing all the work you have done I am confident you will get a handle on crucible steel. It is definitely a tedious process. I am currently forging my first decent ingot after roughly 20 forging cycles its just now squaring up some. I could not get the ingot to move until I bumped it up to around the 1700F range and moved to a 4Lb hammer, still working it slow though. I think decarbing is more for just a skin to try to keep cracks from starting, than reducing the overall carbon content. Just a thought maybe if the better section of ingot does forge out you could do a jelly roll with thin wrought stock and stuff all the ingot crumbles in between and weld it in a press. Looking forward to what this becomes!
  6. As far as visually by a picture it is hard to do unless the person selling it has polished it some and etched it to show the grain, although sometimes if it is very decayed you can see the grain without it. You can do a cut and bend test. Spark test also helps WI has a unique spark most of the time.
  7. That turned out great!
  8. That looks pretty good. 1'' pipe should be more than adequate, place the pipe at a slightly downward angle to shoot the air deeper into the firebed. Are you going to put a valve on the back tuyere to close it off when working smaller projects?
  9. Good to here about the fireproofing. It looks like your forge should be long enough for most things, but wider than needed. I would lay your left wall bricks flat, the first row above the floor will be at a good height to set your tuyere on, then at least three more rows to finish up the wall. This would give you a firebed about 6'' wide, which would be about the maximum for most purposes . Make the the left wall static then you just modify the other walls according to your needs.
  10. Is you tuyere coming in from the left ? One thing I would consider first before you go any further is to put some type of firewall around your forging area such as concrete backer board.
  11. Nice! They are a fine pair. That maple is really rockin!
  12. Thanks Owen. I am sure I will try this ore again I was just bent out of shape at the moment. I am not positive yet, but I think maybe the ore was reducing to far up the shaft and burning up before it hit the sweet spot.
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