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Chase W

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Everything posted by Chase W

  1. No complaints here. I'll see about acquiring more this weekend, and see what all they have.
  2. Sweet! Now I just need the funds to acquire about 300 lb. of files...
  3. Hey folks, I was perusing my local surplus store, and found their selection of files. Some of the names I know, Simonds, Nicholson, and Grobet, but the rest are new to me. Any names stand out as worthy of purchase in bulk? Any to stay away from? List of brands: K&F AXE K&F Mexico Simonds USA Simonds Nucut USA Simonds Nucut 2nd cut Johnson USA Johnson USA 2nd cut Nicholson USA Lenox USA Grobet USA McCAFFREY USA Wood Miller India Atkins(?) Silver Steel USA Heller Nucut USA Globe(?) Marcott & Campbell(?) Vixen USA I did buy some already, 3 12 inch Grobet double cut
  4. So I started making a spear today, partly as a secondary weapon for hunting our local feral pigs, but mostly just because I felt that I needed one. I wanted to use 1045 laminated with 5160 core, like san mai, but the local Alro doesn't carry "exotic" steels, so I went with 1018 and the venerable mystery steel. In this case, it's small gauge railroad track, pulled out of state forest along the AuSable river, most likely from a logging track. I used an angle grinder to cut the top off of about 14" of track, forged one end flat, normalized thrice using my Mark II eyeball to gauge temps, and qu
  5. Success! I tried a brine, heated to about 120-150 degrees F, set on the edge of my forge pot (brake drum) to cut down time to the quench, and now the entire blade will skate a file. I did get some weird spatter patterns on the blade though. I had read on a different forum that these are a result of overheating the blade. Is this correct? If so, do I need to do anything such as re-normalize and HT? That flaw mentioned above sanded out nicely btw I also forged a small neck knife out of the end of an old Nicholson Magicut file while I had the forge hot. Any advice for the HT on this one?
  6. Sorry it took me so long to get back to this, I currently only have internet access on the weekends. Dan; That was my initial speculation also, but I haven't had a chance to re-HT it. C Craft; you are correct. After buffing the blade I noticed it. It appears to be a section where the strands didn't completely weld. I will try to sand it out (hopefully). Personally, I am amazed that it actually welded since it is a piece that I got out of the ground in Frankfort, MI, from mooring the old car ferry (I assume). Alan; After welding the cable into a solid billet, I hot cut about 90%
  7. I forged my first real cable damascus blade today, with mystery cable, most likely improved plow steel. It is a triple core blade, but I didn't get the defined herringbone pattern I wanted I normalized by bringing it to non-magnetic 3 times and air cooling to ambient temp, then brought to non-magnetic and did a full quench in preheated automatic transmission fluid. The problem is that the edge of the blade didn't harden to my liking. The spine and first .75 inches of the tip are hard, but the rest is fairly easy to cut with a file. Any ideas why this happened and/or how to fix it? Dimen
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