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About TrevorWalsh

  • Birthday 02/12/1988

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  • Location
    Philadelphia, PA
  • Interests
    Beekeeping, carving, cooking

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  1. Hello Everyone, I'm in the process of building a HT oven and am trying to decide which way the door should swing. A lot of the builds I see, and most of the commercial offerings have side swinging doors, but a down swinging door on the other hand could be weighted for automatic closing. I do wonder how much heat the door would be able to radiate at your hand while grabbing blades. Does anyone have any thoughts or practical experience with either door type? I've attached a rough model of my design with a down swinging door for reference.
  2. I found a large beat up one-man cross cut saw, this is what I did with it. I've always wanted a nakiri so after finishing a paring knife I set out to make a little more complicated handle, very thin veggie killer. The stock is .070" thick. The handle is a doweled Wa, but with a slot cut into the ferrule, so the dowel can't be seen. It's made of East Indian Rosewood, Ebony and and unknown tropical. G-Flex epoxy. Please give feedback, I would appreciate it. I can also take pictures of other details if anyone wants them.
  3. Hi, I stalled out on some other projects I began posting, but have attacked a new one with gusto. My fiancee has complained about us not having a pairing knife, I decided this would be a great exercise for my desire to make some Japanese cutlery. Here are three process pictures so far... The blade is ground out of Aldo's 1084, I'm going to attempt a hammon with it, I know it's not likely with that composition, but we'll see.
  4. I made a hardwood punch and a steel die for stamping Koshira blanks out the other day. I couldn't resist smacking some copper through to see what I'd get. I'm using bits of copper pipe or connectors flattened out, measures .060" thick or 1.52mm. These are my tools and results so far... In the first image you can see my tools and copper, I annealed all the copper before hammering through, one anneal one pass. The second shows how the die matches my punch. It's a little irregular, which I'm unhappy about, but I don't know how much it really effects things? I'm concerned that the radius o
  5. I've got a clay mix sitting to hydrate, but have one more question, what diameter do you have on the inside? I scratched out plans for a 12" diameter x 5" deep hearth, maybe a little deeper for more ash bed, does that seem right?
  6. If you have angle to the tuyere, that would mean that the depth of the melt has to increase a little bit to be out of the oxidizing zone right?
  7. Hi Mark, Just who I was hoping to hear from. Yes I've looked through your Picasa pages, the photo essay's were a great overview of what Evenstad was talking about, but there were a few more details that your response helps point me to the right direction. I don't have any bloom to work with, what about wrought? I have some of the old Globe elevator. But maybe that is best saved for some san mai or something of that nature. Time to get on with the clay digging!
  8. Thanks for holding my hand with this Dave, here is the photo of the blade in progress against the kata. There is a more pronounced taper than in the kata. I think I reground the profile because after the distal taper, and blade bevel tapers, the nikago-no-ha itself had a distal taper, which in your geometry primer say should be of parallel thickness. That seems a simple way to drive and constrain the various planes and tapers involved. So how am I doing?
  9. Hello Everyone, I'm been very excited to read a lot of what has been written about smelting, and remenlting on here, and I want to begin someplace. But after hearing Mark Green and a few others talk about the much more controlable results in carbon control with hearth refining, I think that would be a better rounte, my goal is to melt scrap mild, old nails and things down into orishigane for use in traditional style tantos and kitchen knives. I'd like the ability to influence the carbon so I can produce jacket steel or core steel. It's my understanding that the folding and welding will bur
  10. I use hot vinegar with a little borax in it for copper jewelry work. it's very fast.
  11. Thanks Dave, alot of what I've been thinking of comes from the design articles on your site, your discussion of the Aizu Shintogo kata. I have some more photos I have to get up of this blade in progress... When you say "taper the tang profiles a bit" are you refering to the distal tapering from the habaki area to the end or from the nakago-no-mune to nakago-no-ha? Both?
  12. Here is the template for the adjusted edge on the ko-santuko Jarrod... And a link to the WIP thread for the knife I started making... WIP:Beech and Bone Ko-Tanto
  13. So I found out that the sculpture workshop I was going to start forging in will have to be delayed another week, Safety Orientation's fall the day after the open work days. It's a bummer, because I run a shop as my day job, and have given likely a similar safety talk several times a semester to the new students. Oh well, the idiosyncrasies of shops. Since I can't forge down the kitchen knife shapes I wanted I thought I'd start on a pair of the ko-tantos in the attached sketch. After reading Dave F.'s stuff on the Crossed Heart Forge website over and over, I think I know what I need to att
  14. Thank you Wes, Jerrod, and James James, less time with the reading, more time studying as many different japanese kitchen knives as I could, and trying to find something in the utility/vegetable/petty range that would serve. Which is where the ko-santuko like thing (the last image that Jerrod seems to be talking about) came from. The full tang stuff just isn't nearly as appealing to me, and I have rehandled rather many wood chisels, carving tools and a very old japanese kitchen knife. That ability to remove the handle during resharpening is a major boon, and much easier than western bo
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