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Mike Isom

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  1. more pics I made a handle for it out of cherry the traditional way it fits very snug. There are two steel pins holding the tang and can be removed to release the blade. The third is for symmetry and adds strength to the handle. When the pins are in it is rock solid no blade play. I built it to be a user. The fuchi is edo period but I epoxied it on the handle for added strength. The saya is a reproduction I bought till I had time to make one myself. I used pine shims glued and filed to hold firm on the habaki. but the saya is not a perfect fit the sword is smaller than it was built for. If you want a user sword that is rock solid or Real traditionally forged sword this is a steel. I never finished the handle cosmetically the way I wanted it it is totally functional for hard use just not pretty.
  2. p for sale is a Kanemoto blade I was going to restore but ran out of time and funds. It is in great shape. No rust no dings in the edge. Some faint scratches here and there on the blade. It has a good polish and in the right light the hamon is beautiful. I tried to get a good picture of the hamon but I am no photographer. It is Three cedars. I took this blade to an Asian antique show and was told by several Japanese sword dealers that it appears to be a genuine Kanemoto. I was told by one that it was more than likely made in the 1800s as he had seen similar from that time period by the Kanemoto school. The blade is sharp. I fit the two seppas to the blade and the tsuba. The seppas are nickle silver and the tsuba is an edo period copper and silver. The habaki is original I had it nickle plated. I know very little about swords except that I like them. So please look at the pictures and judge for your self. $1,200.00 or best offer. Paypal only USPS shipping with insurance please pm me if you are interested.
  3. Cant afford it but it is awesome great work. There is a lot of time that went into that.
  4. So True I have an O-1 chef knife that I only use when I am making special meals and the blade has an awesome patina that I feel like has captured a small part of each occasion. I love things with a history.
  5. Here is the problem I have always had with all my toys. I have two folders a Zero Tolerance elmax titanium lock , ball bearing, super folder that I put a Emerson wave in and a Stag handle back lock MS Bailey Bradshaw 52100 old school traditional knife like my dad and grandfather had. If made to chose one for a trip to a remote place it would be the ZT no question it tougher but if I'm honest I like the traditional warm classic feel and look of the Bradshaw . I am always torn between the old and traditional and new techno. Weather its my recurve and wood arrows or compound and carbon fiber arrows, revolver or auto, black powder or 300 win Stag or g10. Just wanted to see if I'm not the only nutter like this. So lets hear or see your Yin And Yang.
  6. Would consider a trade for knives from the following makers. J Neilson, Bill Buxton, Hinderer, Bailey Bradshaw
  7. Well this is not mine but it is a katana blade by the Kanemoto school sometime in the 1800s. The Kanemoto was said to be the ones whose hamon was copied and is the influence of all the wavy pattern. They call it the three cedars and my pictures do it no justice. I bought the blade which was in great condition but the koshirae was awful ww2 issue so I made a new Koshirae ( saya tsuba sepa habaki fuchi) which was a very big learning experience.
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