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Vili K

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About Vili K

  • Birthday 05/06/1996

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  1. The blade got finished a long time ago. It turned out really great and some have said it's better than would've been as a dagger. I would've liked a deeper etch but decided to just finish the blade before something could have happened. It was a great learning experience and a rather bold move into the pattern welding territory. I'm still taking part in the forging classes for the spring before moving to an university. Expect something else in the near future!
  2. I'm starting to dig pattern welding again since everything is going according to my new plans again Today I heated the blade to critical temperature three times after grinding just a bit more. Once to cool in the air, once to cool in a bucket full of ashes and the last time to quench it vertically. The blade didn't get warped and the pattern is stunning. the tang might be a few degrees off to the side but that is nothing to worry about. The blade spent about an hour in 175-200 degrees celcius and got a nice deep hay color. As a bonus my ring from the failed cutting edge is look
  3. Also a question i really need answered: If I quench only the cutting edge, thus possibly creating a hamon will it show up during the etch? I don't want my pattern to have any more complexity to it due to a hamon
  4. The dagger has been salvaged into a pretty knife. Since the blade shape was very displeasing to my eye I decided to cut about 5 centimeters of the tip off and bend the outer laminate bar so that the new tip looks nice. Yet again I'm having some problems taking clear pictures, especially since it's an almost constant night in Finland at this time on the year... The tang portion of the twist also failed as I started to forge out the tang. A sawblade of some sort was welded onto the 3 cm long tang. The blade also has some small black spots due to small weld failures? The blad
  5. The cutting edge is around 20 centimeters, so two small blades are a possibility. I'm 99% sure I'll just cut the failed edge bar away, make a seax/single edged something and use the ''failed'' material to make a ring or something nice. It's disappointing to see my initial plans crumble, but I can still easily salvage this into something else. I eagerly await to see what the pattern and the shape of the final product might end up being since I've already established a center ridge that the 2 edged dagger would've had.
  6. Life would be too fun without disappointments I suppose... I tried to fix the gap without any cleaning and with borax and little sugar and filings without succeeding, I still continued to forge most of the bevels on the dagger, hoping that the hammer might push the outer bar to the center as I forge. After this the gap was about half a millimeter or so and I could easily see light through it. After this I used a metal hacksaw (Lucky me didn't have access to a jewelers saw after all...) to clean the gap. I believe the cleaning effect was very close to the one I would've gotten with a more p
  7. The crack is around 3 centimeters long and completely through the blade. If I were to just wire brush the weld joints would not get any cleaner, and as far as I've been taught this does not make a good, if any, forge weld. If cleaning is a necessity, I could try to use a dremel cut-off disc or a jewelers saw (I wonder if it'd cut reasonably enough) to go through the crack and hopefully clean the surfaces.
  8. Today: Documentation and lamentation I started opening the sawed billet and quickly realised why this method is not used by many people. The forming around the center bars was so difficult using the tools available that I decided to do a ''period tack weld'' This weld allowed me to form the rest of the u-bar around the center bars with ease, however I had to grind a few millimeters off later on to get rid of the weld. Heres the whole deal ready to be forge welded, notice the rater large gaps created by cleaning the surfaces with a file. The forge welding went fine as far as I coul
  9. I got some liver of sulphur and was surprised by its effectiveness. Soon after dipping the torc to the solution I realized that I didn't age the silver. However I'm waiting for some steel shot to arrive, that process should harden the metal to some extent? Here's the bracelet after the patina, some of it has already worn off in usage but the high spots will be polished by the steel shot anyway.
  10. The center bar is welded together and the outer u-bar is almost ready for the final weld. The two twisted bars in the center left quite a ridge to be ground out. The pattern of course requires a lot of grinding, but if it still feels too much I was suggested to do a fuller, however I feel like that might be difficult as the fuller shouldn't be too wide, only around 1 to 2 centimeters. Next tuesday I plan to make all the possible sacrifices to the forge gods, heat the u-bar and form it around the center bars, then clean all the welding surfaces, put some mig welds, probably only to the tan
  11. Today I finished the easy and fast parts, the final finish and polishing will come with time as I'll come up with methods to achieve them. The base twist was soldered onto the terminals, the solder I received from the store didn't work, it didn't melt at anywhere close to the temperature it was supposed to and didn't behave like solder at all, it might be normal silver wire given to me by accident? Luckily I got some real solder that got the job done. The torc was then bent by hand as the silver was still soft and not very thick. It fits my wrist nicely as it should. The torc is st
  12. Before tackling my pattern-welding plans I thought to explore making a torc bracelet from silver wire. The project involves many firsts such as working with precious metals in general and sand casting. I apologize for the quality of the pictures, but I thought I'd finally share some of my work with this forum as I dedicated myself to documenting this project. I started out by ordering 2 metres of 1,5mm diameter silver wire. The wire was cut into roughly 66 cm pieces, thankfully the measuring errors didn't matter as the wire was too long anyway. The wire was then folded once and twi
  13. Yes, all the crude pictures are top views. The thickness of the bars should be around 1 cm so that welding the bars isn't impossible. However I'm slightly worried about welding something that is more or less triangular rather than square.
  14. I've decided to tackle an ambitious task, making my first ever patternwelded/damascus blade as a 4 bar dagger without a power hammer or a press. The blade is strongly inspired by Niels' latest experiments How much material loss should I be expecting? At this point it seems that I'll be having access to 1.5 mm thick 15n20 and 3 mm thick 0.6% carbon steel. How will the different thicknesses affect a twist pattern? Considering the materials available and the tutoring I was given I should have 2 cm wide, 6 cm long and 2.5 cm tall intial billets consisting of 11 layers. (is it called a
  15. I made yet another sheath today and I would finally like to try dying it with multiple colors. For example I'd like the triangles on the blade side of the sheath to be of varying colors, and the scales on the dragon-ish creature to also have different colors to them. However my teacher has kept telling me that the leather dye would spread and stain the areas next to the small details, making quite precise lines impossible. Is it possible to dye different areas accurately or should I use paints or just come up with another type of finish?
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