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About ChrisWolf

  • Birthday 11/30/1986

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    Ellicott city Maryland
  1. This is not something i personally have done but if you have good insulation and the areas that need to be welded dont get too hot you might be able to braze the areas instead....... you would need to have a flame source hot enough but it is easier to do that. Have you checked around with Friends or even friends of friends??? You never know someone might have a welder and be willing to help.
  2. So I am about to start Work on a Yatagan but I have a question about the Hilt. Does anyone know or have info on an 80cm yatagan's hilt?......... Specifically The length overall, diameter of grip, and the thickness of the ears (Like how far they stick out height wise from the actual grip) Just on average? I know they vary greatly but a general idea would be great. I was thinking of maybe have the width of the ears (per side max) be between 1-1.25 inches and I was thinking maybe max height of the ears (from highest point) be between 1.5-2 inches dependent upon the average Diameter of the grip portion of the Hilt. Any Help on this subject is much appreciated. I have at least 1000 pictures of Yatagans and their hilts, but there is not much in any of the Pictures to truly determine scale. I am also at a loss because I have never seen on In person, as well as all of the books I have been able to locate (online) being in Russian. Thanks Chris Also If anyone can tell me the name of, plus any information about that metal piece of embellishment that sits on the top of the first few inches of the blade that would be great
  3. Yeah I was thinking of maybe building a small press
  4. Im shooting for the simpler method at first, though i really want to smelt my own steel and add in all ingredients (micro alloying agents) powdered to the charge. The method I was referring to was where you take a piece of known steel and add in the cast to balance out your charge to the right carbon level. I do believe that I may have heard Jeff talk about that before. I have read all 26 pages worth of topics and posts here in the bloomers section. BTW I sent an e-mail to the only supplier of SorelMetal here in the States to ask about small orders and such. It really is very very clean with something along the lines of .05% Si as well as the other alloys at similar levels and 3-4% carbon For the Cast it would be a relatively small piece compared to your base example is if you used 1060/70 steel and added in 30-40% the weight of the 1060/70 steel worth of cast with a 3% carbon content....... this is a very basic example so dont try that example unless you do the math. Greg posted a tutorial on wootz making on primalfires (hey went by the name dimenickel back then) He list a formula he uses to figure out how much cast to add to his bulk/base to get the %C he wants for a given blade. I will post a link for you if you like or just the formula or you can send me a PM whatever works for you. Also when you look at cast It usually comes with a range for the % of carbon; a high and a low %, just average them out when you use Greg"s formula http://primalfires.yuku.com/topic/1950/Tutorial-on-making-wootz-crucible-steel#.VCS-bvnpP6k
  5. I remember reading something about using green glass think it was Greg that mentioned he uses wine bottles. As for the Cast Iron, i am not sure if i can source some white cast, I used to have a wash tub made of it, but we busted it up and replaced it with a plastic one. Might get lucky and find a few small chunks left. Hopefully one of the woots guru's will chime in, but I do remember Greg saying he used Sorel Cast iron, but I cant seem to locate any of that in my area of Maryland. Ancient Wootz would be great to do, but I i dont think i can make that on my first go since Im going for a small Ingot ..... Maybe 1kg at most. I could prolly get close though. Chris.. Do you mean to use over-Steely bloom or was that a question about something i made lol P.S. Alan love your Interests
  6. I was reading up on things last night I believe it said something about Mn removing the Si but it needed to be 1.7 X the amount of Si + .3% or something like that...... it would be removed with the slag. I really would not like to have any Si in my mix if at all possible but i suppose based on the Ancient Wootz Analysis that a micro amount of it would not hurt. I read Greg's Wootz making tutorial and i suppose that I could use a similar formula to figure out how much Si % would be in the total mix. But like is said if anyone has a good recommendation on a source of cast iron it would be much appreciated Thanks Chris
  7. Hello everyone. I am about to make a first attempt at Wootz/pulad/bulat...ect, and I am curious as to what type of cast iron I should be looking for. Mainly the tech specs for the silicon in it. I know that C should be between 3-5 wt% but the Si content is something I have no Idea about. The lowest I have found (looking around so some to buy online still) so far is between 1.8-2.25 wt%, which seems very high to me. Any suggestions on where to buy it from or what type specifically (like gray 40) would be great. issue i am having is the small order that i would need. Think their could be a foundry somewhere near me that I could call as well. Anyway thanks in advance Chris
  8. thanks again Chris I was hoping for 2 layers with la very slight difference and one that is very bright
  9. Thank you. I was planning on using some 1095,1084, and some 15n20 and wanted to make sure when i list the specs i get in the ball park
  10. Hello All. I am not sure if this question really belongs here or not. I was wondering (very general) how the end product/finished blade, carbon content is determined. I know the Spark test and also that to really figure it out you would end to send it off for analysis. What i am looking for is the super general answer..... for example is it just a straight average (in the case of using 2 dif steels), or is it more complex then that? I know more goes into it like type of forge, fuel source, scale, ect. Think that makes Sense basically just is it an average (due to carbon migration) or more complex (cumulative)? Thanks all
  11. Mike that Would be great really appreciate it. Brackett that exactly what Im building..... though I wish I was able to fine a Nice size drop to use for an anvil
  12. Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I am stuck with a very small bank for this is at the moment. I would love to get a large heavy anvil but, that is just not in the cards for the time being. I know that many bladesmiths "work with what they have." I managed to my my hands on an old power line/telephone post, which will be very nice to set my (very) small anvil on. I am hoping to only spend around $200 on my setup...... the anvil being the single most expensive item. I got a throw away freon tank for the body, and am ordering the refractories from hightemptools.com, more then likely the burner as well. I plan to take lots of pics and post lots throughout the entire project. So far just the blade planning and design has taken over a month. I am hoping to experiment with some different ways of doing this; using clay to differentially harden the blade, as well as maybe some case hardening. I like the idea of combining different techniques from multiple cultures that made some of the most amazing blades throughout history.
  13. Hi all, This is my first Post here but I have been reading page after page here for weeks. I know that their is a ton of posting on much of this, which is why I am mostly looking for some Opinions on what YOU think would be best. Also if anyone lives near me (Ellicott City Maryland) that is okay with offering help and advise when I run into a situation where I need it, let me know. Okay so here goes First up........ Anvil. I can get my hands on some 1045 round stock 4" Dia by 7" or 5" dia x 8.6". 4" is around $50 and the 5" $80. no luck yet with finding a local supplier with a decent size drop, but I am Stil looking. I was also considering the 4140 4"x4" from Old world. 4" 1045 is about 24 Lb the 5" is about 47 Lb and Old world is 25 but its also heat treat and free shipping. which one should i go for? Next for the Damascus.... I am going to be ordering from Aldo at NJSteelBaron.com but Was thinking of doing up a billet of 1095, 1084, and 15N20. Was wondering if anyone has seen anything with this mixture or If you think i should just use either 1084/15N20 or 1095/15N20 mix to keep it simple. I am hoping to make a dagger that has a subtle variation; kinda like someone making a pattern wielded/Damascus out of 1095/1050 mix (Walter Sorrels had a vid he did this in), with the addition of the higher contrast from the 15N20..... Hopefully that came out right and you know what I mean lol. Again Super happy to be here Im working on setting up my own personal setup right now (for my house) and I am getting the forge built hopefully done within a week or so. Thanks in advance
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