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billyO last won the day on August 6 2021

billyO had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Interests
    Siberian Huskies, Blacksmithing, pattern welding

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  1. I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for a PM, Josh. His post is over a year old and it looks like Mr Bumbino hasn't been here since last september.
  2. I agree, but didn't mention this because I thought this would naturally happen as you cleaned up the profile.
  3. The only thing that looks a bit off to me is the length of the tang. Other than that it looks like it needs only minimal profile clean up...
  4. There are more than a couple of free plans for grinders on the web. Do a search for free 2x72 grinder plans and you'll find it, I'm sure. IIRC, one of them is called the no-weld grinder.
  5. I'll add for future reference that getting the size of the bend right is more important for use with an anvil compared to wood bench. When using on an anvil, you need some spring in the arm to allow the holdfast to wedge against the pritchel hole, whereas when using on a wood bench, the holes and softness of the wood bench is what wedges them tight moreso than the spring of the arm.
  6. or you can wrap the blades in aluminum foil before throwing (er, I mean, gently placing) them in the oven. And for judging temperature, IIRC, table salt melts at about 1475F, so sprinkling your blade with this and watching it to bubble just like flux might help judge your temps. Oh yeah, don't forget: Pics or it didn't happen
  7. One thing I've done to help mitigate this is to use extra thick stock for the end caps. The last can I did was ~ 3" tall, and ~1 1/2"deep and for the end caps I used some 3/4" x 1 1/2" flat bar. These thicker pieces upset when squishing instead of just bending like thin walls do, helping with some compaction from the ends while setting the weld.
  8. Perhaps this could be motivation to start laying down beads for practice and to improve?
  9. interesting.... but not the good kind ofinteresting.
  10. April 1st isn't until tomorrow???
  11. Correction fluid (typically Ti dioxide) or any other dioxide will work as a resist to welding. I've used Kilz (tm) Spray paint primer and it works well. Make sure it's dry before adding anything to the can and the canister will peel like a ripe banana. If not, you will have to grind off the can. Have you done a can by hand before? I'd be hesitant because I think it would be hard to get a uniform squish on the whole can with a hand hammer and not have any interior shear forces preventing a solid weld throughout the billet. Good luck, Gerhard and post pics!
  12. One potential disadvantage to be aware of is that it moves metal differently than a power hammer. Because the press operates with one big squish instead of a lot of blows, the surfaces of the piece cools in contact with the dies cool significantly and the forging is more in the middle of the billet than the outer surfaces.
  13. Good responses and suggestions from everyone. I feel that I should mention a little about steroid injections for those who aren't as well versed in the medical field. And I apologize to those for which this is 'old information'. Steroid injections are nothing more than the MD administering a large amount of strong anti-inflammatory drug directly to the affected area. Note that many common OTC "pain" meds (Aleve, Naproxen, ibuprofen, aspirin, etc) are classified as NSAIDs, which stands for Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs. These drugs (steroid injections included) only addr
  14. Good point! ...and I actually have some information about that. In the past 9 years since I was introduced to them, I've asked this question about 15-20 times and I've gotten that response only one other time. That was on another forum about a year ago when Ed McCaffery came across a similar situation with a broken drill bit. But I never found out if my suggestion worked.
  15. While that sounds kinda fun, I don't need another time consuming hobby. Thanks for the suggestion though.
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