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billyO

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billyO last won the day on August 6 2021

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Interests
    Siberian Huskies, Blacksmithing, pattern welding

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  1. As I re-read this, my thought is, why waste the 1095? If you have enough scrap to make a can, then it's enough to weld into a billet or incorporate it in a different pattern.
  2. Yes, you can use it, but the worries are the same as using a using square tube.
  3. One thing to keep in mind is that the etching speed is temperature dependent. The warmer the ambient temp is, the quicker the acid will etch. So until you get your own process dialed in, I'd suggest going with 10-15 minute etching cycles the first time and not the one-hour cycles. My etching tank is stored in an outside shed, so in the winter I end up doing 30-45 minute cycles, but in the summer I'm down to 15 minute cycles.
  4. Well......you have to in order to get a good etch on the damascus.... @Emery White, these are great for file work on a handle.
  5. in re-reading this thread, I have no idea why I thought you did. Sorry 'bout that.
  6. With non-ferrous metals, heating to a red heat and quenching does the opposite of what happens with carbon steels. This softens the material, allowing you to work it without cracking. As you work the piece, it gradually gets harder and harder (thus the term work-hardening) and it will start to crack unless you soften it again. Depending on the size of the piece and the amount of reshaping/work you are doing, this may need to happen many times during a project. So what @Gerald Boggssaid about the process is true: Heat>quench>hammer > heat>quench>hammer... Possible, but depending on the alloy one might not be as easy as others
  7. Thank you for the quick replies, Sean and Jeroen. There's nothing wrong with repeating safety stuff, and I forgot to mention moisture to them, so thanks.
  8. Hello all. I hope it's cooling down quicker where you are than here in the Portland, OR, where we are on our 5th or 6th week of 90+temps with some days hitting triple digits, and only 1 day in the 70s during this spell. No fun without ac..... Anyway, the maker's space that I rent from (and that I was recently asked to head up the metal shop) just bought a melting furnace with the plans to melt down and cast scrap copper, bronze, brass, aluminum, etc(?) This isn't something that I have much interest in, and therefore, know almost nothing about it. As the head of the metal shop, is there anything that I need to warn users about regarding melting scrap metals? I've already told the owners of the space to not melt old copper pipes with the solder joints, because there might be lead solder, and that some bronze alloys can be dangerous due to lead, zinc and other potentially dangerous fumes. But beyond that, I don't know what to allow and not allow. Thanks in advance. Stay cool.
  9. Thanks. guys. I'm thinking about going with the c-frame after talking with a few smiths, and Dave Lisch put the proverbial nail in the coffin when he told me he sold his H-frame for the very reason I was concerned about.
  10. Right on. Welcome to the group. Have fun. Oh yeah, don't forget to post pictures of your stuff.
  11. The Buddhists and Zen masters are right. Happiness is..... .....when one stops trying.
  12. Hello all. I hope the warmer summers are treating everyone else better than us here in the PNW without A/C... I recently was given the opportunity to do a large sculptural commission with the instructions that "money is no object". After a little discussion, it looks like the customer is willing to buy our shop a forging press as a deposit, so which one? I have quite a bit of experience with using Uncle Al's 25-ton H-frame and with Coal Ironworks 16-ton and 25-ton, but most of that work was for making damascus billets and canisters, and outside of speed, there wasn't much of a difference in their abilities to forge billets and kitchen knives. I've heard a lot of good things about the Gilmore 50-ton press at the NWBA conferences over the years, but I'm not sure if this is because they are superior machines or merely because he is a fellow longtime member of the NWBA... I'm also a little concerned that the H-frame might limit access to the dies for some operations while making sculptural pieces. Has anyone with an H-frame press had any issues with the frame getting in the way, limiting access to the dies? I appreciate any input. Thanks and stay cool!
  13. Hello Nazar. I sent Dennis the link to this thread. We'll see if he responds. Good luck.
  14. Welcome, Nazar. What part of the Chicago area are you in? I know a blacksmith in the far south side, in the Chicago Heights/Steger area.
  15. Good suggestion, but the question is 3 years old, so they have most likely moved on...
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