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billyO

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billyO last won the day on June 13

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    Male
  • Location
    Portland, OR
  • Interests
    Siberian Huskies, Blacksmithing, pattern welding

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  1. Ahhhh....horizontal plates, not mounted vertically like mine...Thanks.
  2. Thanks, Fred. Understandable why it ended up as a wall hanger...
  3. A big part of the answer should be what is the biggest blade you plan on making? Thicker plates will take more pressure while resisting bending, so that's how I'd go (my plates are 1 1/2" x 4" x16" bars. Not sure how the thickness will affect cooling rate, either of the knife or the plates themselves, but I'd guess that thicker plates will cool the blade stock quicker, but retain the heat in the plates longer too. I'd love to see a video of how you plate quench multiple blades at one time. I can't imagine the gymnastics required or the set-up to do this both quickly and witho
  4. Hello all. I've got what should be a "simple" algebra problem, but my aged muscles are too atrophied I guess. I bought a new TC to check the drift on my year-plus old TC. They were positioned one on top of the other in my forge. With the old one on the top, it read ~60F degrees higher than the new one and with the old one on the bottom, it read ~120F lower than the new one. So, how far off is my old TC? Thanks.
  5. That's a nice looking package all around. Both the lines and the materials flow together quite nicely. I'm having a hard time placing the function of the blade shape, though.. What kind of knife is this? A fighter? Kicthen? EDC?
  6. I know this is important with venturi burners, but is this necessary for ribbon burner burners?
  7. Here's a picture of my burner's attachment to my forge body to give you an idea, Nicholai. This should be easy to remove, but like I said earlier, I haven't done this since I built this forge 11-ish years ago. And it's had consistent use on average 3x/wk.
  8. After soaking in vinegar for 2 days, got the scale off and ground this down to 0.125" for a friend. 4" x 12" 300 layers 1080/15N20. Here it is ground to 400 grit and 15 min in vinegar
  9. I'm not sure how much of a real worry this is, I've never had this problem with any of the ribbon burners I've had or used. What I did was weld brackets onto my burner frame and forge shell and then bolted the ribbon burner to the forge. However I have not had to remove this in the 11+ years of regular use, so not sure if this is a real worry, either.
  10. This will depend partly on what you plan on forging, not just what size your starting stack of pieces is. If you are only going to be forging small folder blades, and other tiny stuff, then I'd guess this size would work. But you'll most likely quickly wish you had a larger forge. As an example, my initial stack for damascus is 25 layers, and the tack welded pieces are about ~ 3" x 6" x 1 1/4". After welding and drawing out to make a 1 1/2" x 3/4" bar to cut and re-stack, the piece is now between 18-24" long. A lot harder to forge this if only 6" of the bar has heat compared to the
  11. If free, and you don't already have shop space for this, then your only questions should be, can I move this around now, and will I be able to move it later when necessary.
  12. Yeah, great write-up and synopsis, Alan. Sticky this somewhere? A few thoughts from my experiences, both with my forge and using other designs. This is probably as close to an ideal forge set-up as you can get, for anywhere from full-time shop use to any forging beyond the "couple hours a couple times a month" crew. When not abused, this type of build can last many, many years with minimal maintenance. I went big on my first forge build 11+ years ago, a 18"dia pipe with 1/4" walls and 2" of castable refractory. It takes a while to get to welding heat, but because of all th
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