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Kenon Rain.

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  1. Hahaha that it is. Probably rings like a bell. I don't plan on grinding her at all, always viewed that as the best way to ruin an anvil, I will take a scotchbrite disk to it however, these have a very light touch and it would be work to remove .001 from the face even, but they do a good job of cleaning and knocking burs and crap down. Brush the rest, the horse mat caulk chain and magnet and soundproof the shop wear two pairs of ear muffs and I should be good. Didnt know about the caulk trick that's interesting. It doesn't cure in thick chunks because it reacts with water to set, but forms a s
  2. . I'm itching to cut a stand for it and clean it up to find out more. The weld lines are really well done and hard to see. And I bet you are right about the noise ha I haven't gotten to look at it in person yet but she looks very harmonic
  3. Sounds good, aligns with what I thought, and that's what I'll do thanks
  4. Can anyone tell me if electrolysis will leave a black oxide layer on the anvil? I want to gently clean it up but don't want it back to bare metal. Black oxide would be perfect, followed by some oil
  5. Cool, so even if the weld lines aren't obvious, a spark test somewhere on the horn when I get it will tell me definitively whether or not it's a two or three piece construction. I have all my answers, thanks again!
  6. That big horn was probably handy for working and repairing anchor chain. I wonder if that's why they went with the farrier model
  7. Thanks for all the help! I'm pretty stoked. Grateful it's unmolested too, and has had a cool history in a ship yard on the California coast for the last century. I like the big horn and lack of saddle too. Never really used the saddle on my old one anyway. Does that mean the horn is wrought?
  8. Really doesn't matter too much, it's sweet and has obviously seen a century of use in a ship yard and held up fine. Just curiousity
  9. Haha are you able to pin it to that exact year? All I know is a 1 in the front means ballpark between 1892 and 1916. So, 1908 being in the middle of that range it could be either style of construction that's as far as I got. Looking at it I can't tell either. I can see two grain structures joined at the truck about half way up. But idk if there is a plate or not. Probably going to run it through an electrolysis bath which will clean it up gently and tell me more. In that picture with the logo on the side, it almost looks like a plate joint above it but I'm not sold.. that's the onl
  10. I'll ask him, hoping it's the later generation but it kinda looks like wrought ha
  11. Well, this is interesting. It's actually a hay Budden. He took a wire brush to the side, it's hard to make out but he says he can see hay buden New York, and 200lb. Still in good shape. We're they always bimetal construction or did they switch to cast at some point? Doesn't matter mich, I won't abuse it but curious.
  12. Rad, I guessed it might be a farrier anvil because of the horn shape and little tab off it. I'm stoked, I'll look up Trenton, hopefully they are solid body? Not that it matters much
  13. Hey guys, anyone have a clue what I'm looking at here? I don't have it yet, but was bought for 200$ from a boatyard. Has what seems like a really big horn, almost looks like a Peter wright but I can't see a lamination line. My dad who found it estimates it at 250lb which isn't far off looking at the size. No cracks or dents, really good shape.
  14. That was really informative thank you, the issue I have is that the shop that I will be using for the foreseeable future it would be a really difficult to get to 220 otherwise that would make much more sense so that I could run other equipment as well. I am interested in seeing if there is any way to make something usable on 110 for our purposes, because I know a lot of people are limited in power like I am currently. The coal ironworks 16 ton press is 110 and seems to serve its purpose pretty well. I know that more pressure is more useful. I suppose I could just build a 220 5 horse and run a
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