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Kenon Rain.

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  1. That was really informative thank you, the issue I have is that the shop that I will be using for the foreseeable future it would be a really difficult to get to 220 otherwise that would make much more sense so that I could run other equipment as well. I am interested in seeing if there is any way to make something usable on 110 for our purposes, because I know a lot of people are limited in power like I am currently. The coal ironworks 16 ton press is 110 and seems to serve its purpose pretty well. I know that more pressure is more useful. I suppose I could just build a 220 5 horse and run a generator for the time being. I do have an older log splitter style hydraulic press that runs on a 13 horse Briggs and Stratton but it is extremely loud and annoying to have to start each forging cycle
  2. ok all, I ran some numbers to the best of my ability. And if I build something with this frame basically, and knock it down to 25 tons, with 5" of ram travel @ 10tons of force, 20" away from the fulcrum, on the other side I will have 2" of travel 8" from the fulcrum. That is enough I think, because I will basically build the bottom die section to take stackable spacers of so I can increase the gap for tooling, or close it up for drawing this is very similar to the frame I would build. just get parts cut from 1" pl so Its as strong as possible. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_436253_436253 Thats awesome. what are the specs on the ram that's on it? and maybe the pump too.
  3. wow, check this out. these are the stats for that machine I linked. Working Pressure (PSI): 2,500, HP: 3/4, Metal Shear: Yes, Volts: 115, Dimensions L x W x H (in.): 30 x 24 x 55 1/4, Bending Brake: No, Slip Roller: No, Amps: 20, Max. Depth (in.): 3 3/4 so its generating 40 tons off a 3/4 hp motor on 115v. that is pretty crazy. and I think there is potential for a redesign for something that would function for our uses.
  4. I'll probably just build a straight hydraulic press, but it does seem like you could build something with a mechanical advantage. maybe something with a lower die that you could raise up to the height of the work you are doing so that the stroke can be faster shorter and stronger with less wasted travel. That actually would be pretty sweet. I don't know enough about engineering something with these forces to get the tonnage and speed I want, so it would be an overbuild and guess and check w basic math proccess. but ill draw something up on the pc to kind of show what I am thinking of when I get a chance tomorrow morning. I have a friend who is a master of solidworks and running mechanical simulations so maybe I could get his help. simpleton that I am, if that machine I linked generates 40tons of power at the punch, it seems like I could move it out on the arms to where there is roughly 20 tons of force and get twice as much travel and/or speed. I could of course be oversimplifying but it could be interesting. the goal here above all is to get 16tons of force or more which I think is the minimum for forging out of a 110v 2hp motor.
  5. There would be no retrofitting. I'd just build something mechanically similar. I'm an experienced fab guy. What do you mean by limited by throat depth? If you're talking about an actual ironworker, I've used them and the punch section would work well for hot forging, but they are prohibitively expensive and usually three phase.
  6. Hey all, I'm going to build a press. for the time being I am limited to 110v for power, so its going to need to be designed around that. I've seen and like the coal ironworks 16ton press and want to build something similar. I am a fabricator w access to equiptment and steel so the build part will be easy. I want to over build it so that I can upgrade it later into a heavier tonnage if i decide to. my question is how the hell do I figure out what pump/ram combo will run alright on a 2hp 110 motor?? I think maybe running a 1750rpm motor w an 11gpm dual stage pump basically at half speed with a 4" ram would get me in the ball park but thats my best idea. In the future ill swap to a big motor and probably run a single stage pump so im pretty much just going to build the frame heavy and use it until then. on a related note, is there any advantage to be gained by building something with a mechanical advantage like an ironworker? you could use a faster weaker ram, but im not sure the gains in tonnage would be washed out by the lack of speed. This example below is interesting, I would design it a bit differently, but the punch section is basically a press, and they are calling out 40tons of pressure generated there. If it were moved out towards the ram a bit pressure would drop but speed and travel would gain. 20 tons would be sufficcient. just a thought. thanks all
  7. You could, I just liked how simple this was. I wanted to keep the tool compact for the anvil face and incorporating the post made it an efficient design. And it works good/quick to adjust.
  8. Thanks for the kind words guys, nice to be doing this again.
  9. Go right ahead the backstop is the only thing I might change in a redesign. It would be nice to have two points of contact with the blade. Right now you basically butt it up to the backstop and eye parallel off the face of the tool and whack to establish the groove. It works good but is a little more reliant on carefuness. And it was a very simple guide to build two points of contact would require a redesign. As you rotate it on the shaft the gap grows. Actually now that I think about it, you could put on two guides like mine but cut the flat bar into an L shape, point the upper L leg down and the bottom one up so they overlap then you could put them on either side of the shaft and have two parrallel points of contact by rotating them towards and apart from each other in relation to the center of the dies. I'll draw it If that wasnt clear. Maybe I'll make a thread for the tool. Emiliano you are absolutely correct and I appreciate the input and example. The blade as shown is rough forged, I'll dial it in a little more before grinding. I can get a little more width out of it too I think. How far should the fuller run down the nakago do you think? I know they dont go all the way. And I know the habaki needs to be able to slide home and fit the groove on the blade itself, so I'm assuming it goes a ways, and then the nakago's taper makes the fuller transition away.
  10. Here are a few shots of that tool, the hardie peg is 1/4 flat bar and it fits diagonally into the hardie hole, and is slotted so you can beat a wedge into it to lock it to an anvil. The dies are gapped, but the bottom one takes spacers to make the gap smaller for thinner cross sections. The hole on the underside next to the hardie peg is for if dies or spacers get stuck. The tool takes different dies too, cutters, flatters, basically whatever fits. I made them out of leaf spring.
  11. Last week I stopped into my friend Tom Tasker's forge and we worked on this blade together. It's stretched out of a rail clip like the one next to it by hand which I've heat treated many times and it takes a pretty impressive hamon. They are higher carbon that the spikes and growing up with a railroad through the property was something I used to use a lot. The fuller was done pre beveling with the guillotine tool pictured, its offset 45' to its frame so it can be used to draw material lengthwise too. There is a little bar and tube on the post that can be swiveled to act as a backstop or guide to help stay in the groove. Its pictured here without the lower die or hardie peg on it yet. Will update with a complete pic of the tool later. Kind of stressful forging ha, would be very easy to make a big unfixable ding in the fuller groove but it worked out well. Dies are gapped about an 1/8th inch so the fuller is a uniform depth. Will be grinding and posting pictures of it as it progresses. No grinding has been done to the blade yet so that is all forge work shown. Tried to get as much blade as I could out of the hunk of steel
  12. All I have for pictures for now, was night time so no good assembled ones. I used this manichin to tamp the floor in because it has q good base and was handy ha. When I get the holes cut I'll post pics of it heating something and a short video, and some temp measurements from the three orifices. Close to the finished line
  13. Well, fired it up w the stabalizer kaowool in. We had a bear of a time getting it to stay lit because there isnt enough passive air intake to support the burner. I think that is what's going on because at the thermocouple ports, it was actually drawing in enough oxygen to form flames, which tells me there was a lot of unspent propane in the chamber. So, next move is going to be cutting a window down by the burner to allow air in and make lighting the burner easier.
  14. That's the body and lid and burner painted w high temp black as a teaser ha.
  15. Refractory ordered! Completed build pics and test fire coming this weekend!
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