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Kenon Rain.

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Everything posted by Kenon Rain.

  1. You could, I just liked how simple this was. I wanted to keep the tool compact for the anvil face and incorporating the post made it an efficient design. And it works good/quick to adjust.
  2. Thanks for the kind words guys, nice to be doing this again.
  3. Go right ahead the backstop is the only thing I might change in a redesign. It would be nice to have two points of contact with the blade. Right now you basically butt it up to the backstop and eye parallel off the face of the tool and whack to establish the groove. It works good but is a little more reliant on carefuness. And it was a very simple guide to build two points of contact would require a redesign. As you rotate it on the shaft the gap grows. Actually now that I think about it, you could put on two guides like mine but cut the flat bar into an L shape, point the upper L leg down and the bottom one up so they overlap then you could put them on either side of the shaft and have two parrallel points of contact by rotating them towards and apart from each other in relation to the center of the dies. I'll draw it If that wasnt clear. Maybe I'll make a thread for the tool. Emiliano you are absolutely correct and I appreciate the input and example. The blade as shown is rough forged, I'll dial it in a little more before grinding. I can get a little more width out of it too I think. How far should the fuller run down the nakago do you think? I know they dont go all the way. And I know the habaki needs to be able to slide home and fit the groove on the blade itself, so I'm assuming it goes a ways, and then the nakago's taper makes the fuller transition away.
  4. Here are a few shots of that tool, the hardie peg is 1/4 flat bar and it fits diagonally into the hardie hole, and is slotted so you can beat a wedge into it to lock it to an anvil. The dies are gapped, but the bottom one takes spacers to make the gap smaller for thinner cross sections. The hole on the underside next to the hardie peg is for if dies or spacers get stuck. The tool takes different dies too, cutters, flatters, basically whatever fits. I made them out of leaf spring.
  5. Last week I stopped into my friend Tom Tasker's forge and we worked on this blade together. It's stretched out of a rail clip like the one next to it by hand which I've heat treated many times and it takes a pretty impressive hamon. They are higher carbon that the spikes and growing up with a railroad through the property was something I used to use a lot. The fuller was done pre beveling with the guillotine tool pictured, its offset 45' to its frame so it can be used to draw material lengthwise too. There is a little bar and tube on the post that can be swiveled to act as a backstop or guide to help stay in the groove. Its pictured here without the lower die or hardie peg on it yet. Will update with a complete pic of the tool later. Kind of stressful forging ha, would be very easy to make a big unfixable ding in the fuller groove but it worked out well. Dies are gapped about an 1/8th inch so the fuller is a uniform depth. Will be grinding and posting pictures of it as it progresses. No grinding has been done to the blade yet so that is all forge work shown. Tried to get as much blade as I could out of the hunk of steel
  6. All I have for pictures for now, was night time so no good assembled ones. I used this manichin to tamp the floor in because it has q good base and was handy ha. When I get the holes cut I'll post pics of it heating something and a short video, and some temp measurements from the three orifices. Close to the finished line
  7. Well, fired it up w the stabalizer kaowool in. We had a bear of a time getting it to stay lit because there isnt enough passive air intake to support the burner. I think that is what's going on because at the thermocouple ports, it was actually drawing in enough oxygen to form flames, which tells me there was a lot of unspent propane in the chamber. So, next move is going to be cutting a window down by the burner to allow air in and make lighting the burner easier.
  8. That's the body and lid and burner painted w high temp black as a teaser ha.
  9. Refractory ordered! Completed build pics and test fire coming this weekend!
  10. Should have some progress pictures this weekend, still no liner but will have it all painted and assembled until I can get some. Going to fire it soon. Tempting to just fire it unlined.. probably pretty even heat if the whole thing is glowing red lol
  11. Lid is done too, seal welded on the inside w bronze stitches on the outside. Made it oval for wide blades. Theoretical max capacity is 6"x 40" blade length
  12. Sorry for the break in updates, just waiting on insulation still, here are some pics of it assembled. I went for straight in thinking I want symmetry to my heating in case I cant turn a large ir curved blade around in the furnace. I can use a baffle to arc the heat around the blade but I'm not sure if I'll need it really. The flames may be so short that I have about a foot between them and the blade placement. Wont know if its neccessary until I try it out. Updates soon, thanks.
  13. Got the burner mounted, looking good. Going to cut the hole on the lid tomorrow then we ready for lining once I get the insulation. I'll test fire it w just the stabalized kaowool to determine if I need a baffle, then go from there. Also need to make the 3 thermocouple ports
  14. Thanks! All I got done today was weld out and cleanup so no pics until next week. Should have it wrapped up and lined by next Friday for a test fire!
  15. More progress, getting closer. Formed up the mounting plate and welded it to the burner, and made the lid for the forge body. Need to cut a bunch of holes tomorrow in the lid and body, weld out, and probably come up with some kind of baffle to make the heat extra even.. I was going to angle the jets so that I could maybe avoid the baffle, but with the flames being so short I'm not sure it would really spiral around the chamber like I want so I think going in straight with a formed baffle will be the right approach.. we'll see.
  16. Little update, body rolled and tacked up. 21" diameter. More coming this week.
  17. I just found that naturally aspirated one too, that's new since I last researched these and seems like a worthy project. Might attempt one for the welding forge I'll be building soon after this is completed.
  18. Just the tips, that a why the jets are so long, the plenum could have been mild steel but I thought stainless would look cool/be fancy... i dont know if you are familiar with ribbon forge/glory hole burners but this is an adaptation of those. Here is a link to a good one -https://www.pineridgeburner.com Worst case, I'm figuring I could install some sort of stainless baffle or plug some of the flame ports to move heat around.
  19. It should hold up very well at 1500', but I'm going to set it into the shell once I get the location right and satanite them in. Possibly protruding a little bit. The placement is going to be a guess, but I have a good feeling that it's going to work out. Shooting for an id of 20" with the insulation, should be big enough to heat evenly and small enough to play off the advantage of the burner style. I'll have 3 locations for taking temp measurements. Designing it so that I can eventually manage temp w a pid controller, but hoping I can just set it up so I can just turn it on and it'll hit and maintain temp without it. Another advantage of the setup is the tunability. The burner can be adjusted from quite a small flame to much more than will be needed. Reasonably efficient too
  20. I'm curious too, I'm kinda winging the science, I thought about having an engineer friend run some airflow simulations but didnt want to ask too much of him. If this doesnt work as a vertical I always have the option of laying it down as a horizontal, which will work and keep an even temperature. I'm just trying to build a vertical to help prevent warpage
  21. Hey guys, long time since I posted last. I've been working as a fabricator/food grade sheet metal worker for the past 7 years or so and have developed some skills that I want to incorporate into a return to this craft. I'll be building a large shop next year, and will be building a full set of very nice equiptment to outfit it with in the time leading up to that. This is a work in progress thread that should come along pretty quickly. To start with, I'm making an experimental forge for heat treatment, it will be 20" in diameter, top fed and powered by the burner shown below. The video I posted is of a test firing. The ribbon section/plenum is all stainless steel w 15 1/4" jets set at increasing distances of 1/8" so that the bottom two are roughly 1" on center, and the top two are nearly 3". This is to theoretically help compensate for heat rising and collecting at the top of the forge. The black component is mild steel with an integrated slide gate, fuel line, and seperate port for the extra air since my fan is oversized. I figure this will act as a safety feature for settled propane, and help keep the burner cool. This burner will obviously be mounted vertically on the forge body, and with the closer spaced jet end towards the bottom, I will be posting pictures of thr construction of the chamber within the coming week or so. Aiming for ready for lining by the end of next week.
  22. Haha hard hand sanding for an extended period of time is definitely cardiovascular exercise. I say it counts
  23. Ti cuts surprisingly well with a cutting torch
  24. I'll have some progress to post of my small stainless ribbon burner later this week got all the metering tubed cut up and ready to tig in. Trying to see how much power I can jam into a small forge (under 1'x1') Excited to see what you come up with, I'm experimenting with using less holes and smaller diameter on my long forge design, I think as long as pressure is adequate in the plenum we shouldn't have any burn back issues.
  25. Rolled my car on the way to my new fabrication job this morning.. great first impression...
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