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Kenon Rain.

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Everything posted by Kenon Rain.

  1. 1" is more efficient? Any chance you have a source for that information? It makes a kind of sense but I'm still curious as to the exact reasons and the amount of improvement of efficiency over 2". I always like the two layers because you don't end up with a seam where the ends meet. But there are other ways around that too.
  2. I'm not sure what you are asking mate, can you clarify?
  3. I think no one is replying because they don't want to blow you up.. I would call your local welding supply.. they might try to sell you something, but if you call a couple of them you should get some clear answers... safely too. This is also probably Google able, there are a few welding and machining forums out there.
  4. Why not just drill or ream out one of your old drive wheels? The existing hole should act as a pilot/guide and keep you pretty true. Someone was joking about using the motor as a lathe but I have done this with a sharp file held at about a 45 ( think cutting like draw filing) to crown and true my drive wheel before and it works. Just be careful as with anything. And you have to brace your hand so you aren't just following the existing contour and making a smaller wobbly wheel out of a big one. I think your answer is a combination of my two suggestions.. it's not good for a motor to run a concentric motion
  5. I'll echo that, the art, proccess, and history are what we are in it for, not the finished item so much. People that do similar work in the field are frightened of the tech because it can render them unemployed, but the path to fulfillment we follow can't be replaced in the same way labor can in relation to production.
  6. The speed is slow, I'd estimate around 2k. But it's unstoppable, this one will get a 6" pulley which should bring it up considerably and depending on how that feels I'll go bigger or smaller on the next one. I used to have a stepped pulley set up but found I like to just run it fairly fast all the time anyway. I'll be using mine for stuff like coping tubing and fab work too so one speed makes sense. A vfd is in the distant future for me. The thing weighs at least 100lb with the motor on ha
  7. This shows how I changed it better. Sorry for the lighting.. dark shop
  8. Hahaha.. side note, could you 3dprint different alloys? Printing out paternwelding.. My job is going to be obsolete though for real.. they can 3d print a scaled down titanium jet engine in like 30 hours.. my job is to fill and fix flaws from the casting proccess. And each part (not whole engine) takes well over 300hrs to be usable
  9. Stay tuned for version 2.0 and 3.0. I have 3 of these to throw together. Next two will probably have pink Longboard skateboard wheels.
  10. Alright, changed the tracking and it works perfect now. And damn, a 2hp motor is plenty ha.. I can't even slow it down
  11. Going to try moving the tracking up and back towards the drive wheel. Everything is square, but I think the tracking is weird because as it is now it's too low and tilts up and backward instead of just up. Should have photos of it done and painted tomorrow night.
  12. One of those projects that just fell together 2hp motor running it, just needs a platen and the tracking fixed.
  13. The drive side. Both belts will have sheet metal shrouds for safety.. it'll look cool too ha..
  14. Alright, well it's "done". Everything runs in the mock up. Tolerances are nice, but I am going to read design the tracking system. Any pointers here for how to place the tracking idler wheel on relation to the other wheels in height and nearness? I'm thinking it needs to be higher than the platen and nearer the rear.. also needs to be adjusted so that when it's at its tightest it is about parallel with the base. That way the wheel isn't angling backward and forward when you adjust it so much as up and down. I don't know if that made sense.. egh, here is the beast. The second pic is how I tension the drive belt, I drilled a small hole between the bearing casings that I can pry backward with against the drive shaft. This worked out really well.
  15. What the hell, I can't get that to flip right ha
  16. Made this 35$ in scrap and old parts I've had kicking around. Works well besides a tracking issue which I'll take care of tomorrow hopefully.
  17. Not really a what i do today post, but ive been thinking about how im going to do it all day while at work. Building a grinder tomorrow pics to follow.
  18. Thermal arc 186 is slick if you need a cheap one with ac. I have an htp inverting 220 watercooled. Ended up being another 1000 roughly with all the bells but I love it and use it weekly for contract machine shop work
  19. https://youtu.be/j0XYJT6jaDk Is this what you guys are watching? The first link doesn't work for me.. and damn this is rediculous
  20. Hey make that thread! That would be cool. And love the palm swell, I bet that feels good in the hand. People aim for aesthetics purely too often. You've got comfort and looks there
  21. All the steel is 1/2 thick so should eliminate any vibration too. Pretty good score for 30$ I think
  22. Hey guys, I'm back been a long while, but I'm just now getting my shop rolling. I picked up an htp inverting 220 inverter tig welder for AL and steel so this machine will be tig welded together. The benifit there is much smaller welds so minimal warping, so hopefully less tweaking to get the alignment right. I went to the local scrap yard and picked up the material in the photo, realizing when I saw it that the black assembly is already halfway to being a belt sander! I already have wheels and a 2hp motor so this project should move along pretty fast. I'll have photos of the action starting Monday when I get grinding and welding. The two threaded blocks will be what hold the platen arm in place, everything else will be explained as I go.
  23. Oh man, that wheel would be perfect for steak knives
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