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David Fischer

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David Fischer last won the day on November 3 2015

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About David Fischer

  • Birthday 09/06/1988

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    Carbondale, IL
  1. I have a large piece of thin sheet steel that is heavily pitted from sitting in my garage. I guess by hammer marks I just mean leaving the pits and dings in it, and maybe adding some more very superficial ones with a small punch or something. I'm not using steel thick enough that I can actually beat on it with a hammer lol. Part of the reason for that relates to Hoy's Forge above. I am better at welding than I am at brazing, and I am not at all confident that I could make a chape out of brass free of imperfections, dings, seam lines, etc. I thought maybe for a first try it would make more se
  2. Hello all, ​I have a knife I am in the process of making and decided I want it to have a scabbard rather than a sheath. I am going to do a leather wrapped core with a metal collar and chape. I can understand how to do a collar, but how do you form a chape? Do I need to cut out two halves and join them together? Also, this knife is going to have kind of a worn, utilitarian look, so I wanted to make the fittings out of mild steel and leave them with a heavy hammered finish/patina. Should I solder the collar and chape together? What about welding them? ​Thanks, ​David
  3. A few months ago I had the really bright idea of using a mitre saw to cut through a piece of steel cable so I could try my hand at cable damascus. I couldn't find my angle grinder, I was too lazy to do it by hand, and I spied the mitre saw sitting there and thought "Hmmm, that could probably do it". Pretty much every impulse was telling me that it was a bad decision but I had limited time to forge and I just wanted to get something done so I ignored it. As soon as the blade hit the cable it frayed and the loose strands whipped around my fingers and then got caught in the blade, basically p
  4. That awkward moment where you ask for advice about the last step of a project, go home to start the first step, and after an hour of banging the same piece of metal realize you haven't managed to spread it a fraction of an inch and give up.... Not really, but I might need to enlist my wife to take a few whacks with the sledgehammer or something on this one, geez.
  5. Hello all, ​For awhile now I've wanted to make some version of this: My understanding is that these various "fist warhammers" are copies of an original German artifact. Whatever the case, I think they're awesome and I need one. My question is, should I try to find a piece of stock long enough and thick enough that I could form the first and draw out the handle in one piece, or should I make the head separately and affix it to a pole? If so, what would be the most secure way to do that? I want it to be functional, at least in theory...
  6. Thanks again for the advice gentlemen, all of it was very helpful. Part of my problem is that I didn't really know the correct terminology so knowing what to ask for will help. Here is a knife I recently finished for myself as part of my reenacting gear, but as you can see I had to grind off a brow tine. I'd like to make some larger blades in this style and it looks like several of the places you all recommended will be able to help me out.
  7. I hate posting things like this but I'm getting frustrated. My passion lies in making 18th century knives, specifically what people commonly refer to as 'Rifleman's Knives'. One of the defining characteristics of these blades is typically an antler handle with a nice crown at the bottom. I have found it more and more difficult in recent months to come by quality pieces of antler which 1.) have a crown, 2.) are more than 3.5" long, and 3.) don't have a brow tine towards the base which makes it unusable or results in an ugly flat spot once you cut it off. Maybe I'm asking for too much, but I'm
  8. Another thing to consider...most of my local hardware/farm supply stores carry a wide variety of dog chews. This includes beautiful (although pricey) pieces of antler which lend themselves well to a Bowie handle. Also, rawhide chew toys can be soaked and unraveled into usable strips of rawhide for making sheaths.
  9. I believe Kabars and other tactical knives are actually painted with special bake on finishes similar to firearms to achieve that matte black look. If you want a dark, forged black I find that liquid gun blue followed by a dip in bleach will turn metal very dark. I'm sure others will have better suggestions.
  10. Well, I'd be down...I think if some basic guidelines were established each month, or every other month or however often we do this, like "x" blade length and a few other parameters, it could give people the flexibility to make a wide range of knives/styles. I think the more basic the guidelines the better, just something to encourage us newbs to actually produce a finished blade. Also, I think this kind of challenge would sort of create a "Show and Tell" section for us beginners. I am probably not the only one who likes to show off a finished knife but feels a little intimidated throwing it up
  11. It's not a bad idea. I think the concept of pushing yourself to make a blade a month is a good one for beginners. I am still very much in the learning process and I have committed to making at least one blade a month this year, although my real goal is one knife every two weeks. The only problem with instituting some kind of formal challenge is that people's interests vary quite a bit. Some people are really into Scandinavian/Viking era knives, others prefer modern designs, some people like Medieval period pieces, etc...I think there is something to be said for dabbling in everything, but even
  12. Here is mine. I mainly make 18th century blades so I tried to create a mark with a 'Colonial' feel to it.
  13. I think a rough, curly, forged looking iron guard would look awesome on this. Something with multiple spirals that extend upwards towards the blade and outwards. If you google 'Flamberge' you'll see several like this and I think it compliments the large blade shape well. I also think a leather wrap on the first 5" inches of the blade or so would look really cool.
  14. I wish my finished work looked half as good as your s(crap)...
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