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Brian C Madigan

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Brian C Madigan last won the day on November 25 2016

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  1. I just sawed an old Brunswick bowling ball in half (don't ask). It was ebonite, not one of the later acrylic ones. The outer jacket is about 3/4" hard (HARD) vulcanized rubber, with a core of softer vulcanized rubber. Once I had it mostly sawn through I got tired of sawing and took a chisel to the split. Not a good idea! The inner core didn't want to split, but the hard outer jacket split in places and shot out violently. I wasn't wearing a glove or anything, and one of those pieces cut my hand. Not bad, but it was small and flying fast enough to break the skin. So that ebonite can be really really hard and take a nice polish. I took it to the grinder and it behaved, but I would polish it slow. It'll burn pretty quick.
  2. there's also these other cast resins: http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-handle-parts/handle-material-hardware/shokwood-shokres-tm.html cast resins are pretty similar, except they cure all at one time.
  3. When you say blade furniture, I though of chairs made from blades... :| Take a look at kirinite: http://usaknifemaker.com/knife-handle-parts/handle-material-hardware/kirinite.html That's the closest thing I can think of
  4. We don't get much damascus from India or Pakistan here in the US of A. I do see a lot of pattern welded knives on Ebay from those countries that look dubious for less than $100 USD. They're not all horrible looking, actually some look pretty good. But I do see voids and cold shuts in photographs sometimes. Historically accurate maybe??
  5. What Geoff said. Who knows? How thick are they? They're probably the least expensive steel the manufacturer could use for the purpose without compromising performance and safety. That tells you very little about the alloy. Ed Caffrey says (elsewhere on the internet) that the large diamond tipped concrete saws are 4130. It'll harden if you quench it in water, but edge retention in a sharp edge (like 30 degrees or less included angle) will be poor. Might be OK for a camp chopper.
  6. Hey Dan, good to at least see you here on the board. Hope you can come back to forging soon. With hardwood there is ash, but I don't know what it's like without it. I don't find it being in the way or blocking the side blast. The ash tends to get pushed to the back of the forge, which I shovel out in the morning to keep it from blowing all over the place when the blower comes on. I'd like to see the difference with no ash, since I've gotten along with hardwood for years. That 4' Japanese would work well in my yard. Thanks for the info!
  7. If you want to make a production knife, create a pattern and start making the same knife, over and over again until you establish efficiency and quality with that pattern. You can differentiate them by materials and finish - hot blued, antiqued, bead blasted, stone washed, etc. Bob Loveless was one of the best bench makers IMO. His patterns are super efficient for that type of production; one man in his shop making 10-20 blades a week. I can't recall how many Bob would make at peak production, it may have been much more than 20. I think the market for high quality folding blades is really strong. I can find customers who are interested in the big fancy fixed blade fighters I like making, but for each one of them there are 100 others who would want a good pocket sized folding knife. Kitchen knives are also a good market; a LOT of people cook and eat as a hobby and they want really good custom knives.
  8. I'd quench in regular oil (like mineral or canola), not water. They don't need to be cooled as fast as something like 1095 with its low Mn. More like O1 or 1084. C:0.56-0.64, Mn:0.60-0.90, Si:1.60-2.00, Cr:≤0.35, P:≤0.03, S:≤0.03 I've seen some specs with up to .25 Cu too. You can TRY claying the blade, but I don't think that'll work well. You can get a hamon by edge quenching in oil.
  9. Hardwood definitely burns hot enough, and I get pretty good mileage out of it. In a day's forge welding, I go through 2 ($12) bags of hardwood charcoal, enough to fill a 55 gallon drum 1/2 way up. If I'm just forging and not welding up big billets, I use maybe one bag of charcoal in a day. I think I might use 2-3 bags in a weekend normally.
  10. That little torch makes around 13,000 BTU. The little burner on the Atlas claims 30,000 BTU. One is going to heat up a LOT faster. It just depends on how much time you want to save/vs money spent. That little torch isn't going to last long between refills, unlike a 20lb propane tank.
  11. I've never found any supply of pine charcoal in the US, but there's always plenty of pine lumber scrap around from houses getting torn down etc. Is there a real benefit of pine over hardwood? Does it burn slower, hotter, is it lighter etc? Anyone in the US or UK use it regularly?
  12. Welcome! I made bows many years ago too. Mostly laminates though, never found any osage orange I could use around here. I never really got much use out of small torch forges, but you can do normalizing and austenitizing on small blades with one. You can do nearly anything in a charcoal forge, including burning and melting steel if you're not careful. Charcoal heats steel up FAST. No briquettes; hardwood lump charcoal.
  13. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB7MC4M?psc=1 mineral oil is cheap and really good for a quench oil. I used to use canola oil, but yeah it does go rancid and attracts all kinds of critters, who will fall in and drown. Mineral oil you can keep in the shop without it stinking up the place. I have Parks #50 too, but it's not cheap and I mostly use it for sensitive stuff like 1095 and W2. Mineral oil works great for almost any deep hardening steel like 1084 or O1.
  14. http://zknives.com/knives/steels/pm60.shtml http://zknives.com/knives/steels/Bohler-Uddeholm/vanadis_60.shtml Note the extremely high alloy percentages. This is the Hitachi HAP72 proprietary equivalent C : 2.10% Cr: 4.0 MO: 8.2 W: 9.5 V: 5.0 Co: 9.5 So it's a Chromium-Molybdenum-Tungsten-Vanadium-Cobalt steel. I don't think I'd want to grind that. At 68-69HRC, it's not recommended to use an edge less than 30 degrees included angle. There's at least one company making a knife out of it at 69hrc. It's a powder metallurgy high speed steel for cold working plastic (deformation) dies.
  15. You could make gravers and heat treat them etc. As long as they're high carbon steel, they should cut. I'd rather start with HSS blanks. The hard part is sharpening them properly. Unless you have the Lindsay sharpening templates. Then it's much easier.
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