Tim Tracey

Both of those are really well done. Very clean lines and beautifully executed. Very nice work.

Hello all, I've got a few EDC's I mocked up. Same design and steel, just a different handle material. Any input is always appreciated. All blades are 1095 and about 3/16" thick at the spine, flat grind. Top to bottom, the handle materials are Ebony, Cocobolo (both heartwood and sapwood), and Ziricote. VID_20170813_201013.mp4

I did try one recently. A Honeywell seax. It didn't go too well.

Thanks for the input Jeroen, and the link too. I see what you mean and the "belly" of the blade. Well the next one will be better!

So the blade is done. I had a mishap and knocked the blade off the work bench tip first into concrete, I ended up taking an inch off the total length to fix it. Luckily the piece of birch I selected for the handle was a perfect 1:1 ratio for the now 6 inch blade. VID_20170701_191927.mp4

So I kept playing with different handle lengths and I found that I liked a 6:5 ratio better. It also extended the handle length to about 6 inches, which falls into more historical dimensions. John Cook, Handle length isn't an issue to obtain. I have several boards I just cut what I need. This will need to wait a little while, I don't have a drill bit long enough to do the job. Once I get the stock I need, I'll make one and then we'll proceed.

I'm glad you shared this here. I had the opportunity to see some of his work with this recently and it's pretty impressive. It's great to see the results but also to truly understand what is happening here, especially since it challenges some preconceived notions.

It's been quite some time since I've been active here, and I see I've missed a lot of good work. So of course I'd come here for the best advice I could hope for. I've been on a seax kick recently and have discovered I've been doing it fairly wrong. Mainly in regards to proportion. So a posting on a Facebook page reminded me that Peter Johnsson has done a fair amount of research on the his topic, along with George ezell, and Jeroen Zuiderwijk, and others. So I thought, why not ask here? Seems like a no brainer. This is my latest one I started on. Close to the Wheeler type IV, I began, on great advice of the previously mentioned, to play with Peter Johnsson's proportions. I think I may settle on a 10:7 blade to handle ratio. The blade length is 7 inches, which would put the handle at, including any bolster or plates, 4 7/8. The blade is thickest at 3/8, at the break. This is only rough ground and will thin out a little with the final grind. This is where I'm at currently, so any advice is welcome. I'm not married to any ideas at the moment. Though I am leaning towards a simple Masur birch handle with no other hardware. Thanks in advance. -Tim

Wes's wife is correct. There are also a fair number of nerves traversing that area (Popliteal, peroneal, are the big ones) I hope that those are intact. Heal fast.

That is a shame about the weld flaw, however the overall exercise I'm sure was more than gratifying. I do enjoy the pattern than emerged.

Beautiful piece there Colin. While the blade stands out on it's own, the carving on the bolster and the handle really makes the piece pop.

Wow. I disappear for a little bit and things like this show up on the page, Holy smokes. That a truly impressive piece, congratulations on your work and graduation.

That looks great. That yew really seems to fit well. Nice work. Also, George. beautiful blade!

Rob, Thanks. I don't have my other billet of this ready yet. It's welded up but I have no immediate plans for what it will be come yet. Thinking a hidden tang hunter. I'll post it once it gets there. The other work I've been doing lately is commission work, people up here like chainsaw chain Damascus (chainmascus as I call it). I think it's neat but probably not in everyone else's aisle of interest. Niaro, The nickle sheet is the layer between the wrought iron on the top, and the 1084 on the bottom. Not a newbie question, I didn't explain it well in my first posting.

Little three finger skinner finally done. Wrought iron, Nickle, and 1084 San Mai. Copper liners and birds eye maple scales. I haven't posted here in a while but I haven't been idle. Just made some stuff I don't believe you folks would be too interested in. Is all.

What a great piece. I can attest, it is comfy and fast in the hand.

Lauri, Your work inspires me. Beautiful work

Elegant blade.

Lauri, Beautiful work, so very clean.

Hey guys, I assume you have those folks that are hard to shop for on your list too. I last minute decided to make a Kiridashi for the first time. My girlfriends dad is an avid wood worker and appreciates a handmade tool. So here is my humble attempt I hope you guys like it. It's about 4 3/4 OAL, with a 1.2 inch cutting edge, chisel ground. Forged from an old logging truck leaf spring. Tempered to about 60 RC.

My first thoughts are carpal tunnel or cubital tunnel(lkke carpal tunnel just originates at the elbow). First off is follow the good advice laid out here for technique. But you should rest and avoid aggravating motions where possible. It takes a long time to develop these types of conditions so it takes a long time for them to resolve. Sometimes bracing can be helpful. Take care.

Nice work Rob! I've been meaning to make some small diameter bolt tongs recently and haven't worked up the gumption to bother. I bet those tongs your making are really rewarding.

I like those wrought fittings. I am 100% sure I will be doing this on my very next seax.

That's quite the trip! A lot of fantastic folks and fantastic times were obviously had and I think we are all glad to see the whole adventure documented. I'm also happy to say I've met some of those fine gents.

Everyone has had some decent advice so far. All of it good. But some things to remember: 1. It's a chronic injury, it will take time to heal. During this time you must respect it or it can persist or get worse 2. It is essentially nerve impingement (pinching) at either the wrist or the elbow. This may involve not only the median nerve, but all nerves passing through these points. Both can produce similar symptoms (I.E. an impingement at the elbow can be felt at the wrist or fingers, and an impingement at the wrist can be felt towards the elbow) 3. Stretch the flexors (gripping muscles), strengthen the extensors (muscles used to open your hand, extend the wrist, and straighten the elbow. 4. An offloading brace can help, but it doesn't fix anything. Just helps with symptom relief. 5. Now the hardest part and sometimes nearly impossible. If you can manage this you can end of recovering quicker. Don't do anything that aggravates the symptoms!. If you need to find alternate methods to do something, I urge you to do it. Feel free to PM me if you have other questions. Good luck and take care -Tim