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Tim Tracey

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Posts posted by Tim Tracey

  1. Cherry handle and wrought iron and 1095 San Mai steel blade. A Scandinavian style puukko with a 6 1/4 inch over all length and a 2 3/8inch blade. The carving on the top of the handle is a Swedish design has been around for centuries, and is adorned with a copper pin in the center.

     

    Thanks,

     

    IMG_20160813_194945_01_01.jpg

    IMG_20160813_195000_01_01.jpg

  2. So I've done a bit of an unorthodoxed method for etching the tang. I've used painters tape over the scales and painted the ferric on in sections. It took a little longer only because I couldn't submerge the while piece. It worked pretty good, just had to be careful where it all went.

  3. Thanks for the feedback guys. I really do appreciate it.

     

    Gabriel, the big handle little blade combo works every time. From my bush crafting phase some years back I now make sure all my handles feel good in any position, so they are as versatile as possible.

    A leuko does sound like it needs to happen. Good suggestion.

     

    Alan, You are right on. That bit of handle above the blade does bug me, though the picture makes it seem worse than it feels. It doesn't change that it's out of whack.

  4. Well I've struck again, working to do well in this style before I want to move on to others.

     

    I've got a wrought iron and 1095 San Mai Puukko, with a birds eye maple handle. Simple but useful.

     

    OAL - 6.5 inches

    Blade Length - 2.5 inches

    Blade thickness - 3/16 of an inch

    Handle - A smidgeon under 4 inches

     

    All comments are welcome, I won't improve otherwise. Thanks for looking everyone.

     

    -Tim

    BirdsEye Full.jpg

    BirdsEyeBlade.jpg

    BirdsEyePuukko with Sheath.jpg

  5. I've found that if I keep the "jacket" layers just slightly thicker than the core and make sure to forge the bevels in, then I can pretty much assure that the "jacket" will be nice and close to the edge once final ground.

    Once you've forge welded it all then it should move similarly but just keep an eye on it and you should be fine.

     

    Good Luck

     

    -Tim

  6. Thanks for the link and info.

    I'm looking specifically for Masur because I've got a weird obsession with Scandinavian style knives and also because I just made up a San Mai (Screw you Cold Steel) of wrought and 1095 to emulate the laminated Swedish steel that was so sought after way back when.

    I am really hoping to get enough for several puukko style knives.

  7. I have not found a great stateside source yet. Not that really makes a difference but, you know go USA.

     

    Its been a long time since I've dabbled in eBay. When I did it was full of dishonest people and product photo's that did not match the product. Is it any better now?

     

    Thanks

  8. I agree with Alan, there prices are good and the shipping is very fast.

    In fact on my last order, they called me and said they could fit my order in a flat rate box instead of the shipping method I chose. They refunded the difference and I had the box in three days.

  9. I'm a huge fan of the synthetic stones, but that is also keeping in mind that I've never used a real stone. Since I'm happy with the fake ones, what I don't know is what the difference really is. Is the price worth seeking them out?

    I have heard that the natural stones can have spots where it doesn't cut evenly or wears away faster. Not sure how much of an issue this really is but it's worth asking.

     

    thanks.

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