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Tim Tracey

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Everything posted by Tim Tracey

  1. Leave it. It's a nice little modern edc. Maybe liners, but I wouldn't do anything else. Mock out a similar sheath and I bet it'll sell quickly. May even be a regular production series.
  2. I picked up a post anvil from Old World Anvils, very awesome people by the way. So I obviously needed to build a stand for it. The anvil is 4x4x9.75 and about 45-ish lbs. The "slot" is 25 inches high and the top of the stand is 30 inches high. Comfortable for my 5'8 height. I was even able to use it a little bit today and it worked pretty well. I was initially concerned that it'd be very rocky but it was fairly stable despite its light weight. All in all, it was neat little non-blade project.
  3. Cool idea and great use of the "left overs".
  4. This is some inspiring work. I've saved some of the photos posted here as a muse Nicely done.
  5. I park my snowblower and snow scoop in my shop for the winter We've got over 170 inches this year, so far... with the snowbanks over my head. I spend so much time moving the white stuff I don't get a chance to actually get out in the shop to make anything. Winter is ending up here in a few months and maybe by May the snow will have all melted
  6. Just realized my typo. It should say instead, 1095 core and wrought "jacket". The 1095 core is what is coming down to form the cutting edge. Good catch there Joshua.
  7. Hey all, This is a blade about 6 months in the making. The billet is 1095 with a wrought iron core, and I had forged this out at Scott Roush's place last fall. This is nothing but firsts for me, from the seax, to the fittings on the sheath. It was a great learning experience and am looking forward to making another one soon with my new found experience. As always, advice and critique are appreciated. Thanks in advance. Stats: OAL: 10 1/4 inches blade: 5 3/8, 1/4 thick at the break Vegetable tanned leather with brass sheet used for the fittings.
  8. Wished there was more to the video! I enjoyed that little bit you had shown. Looking forward to more of your work in the future.
  9. You get purple heart at your local hardware store?
  10. Seriously timely information. I've got my KMG and was planning on using my small wheel attachment to grind a fuller on the sword I'm designing. I am going to have to change my approach a tad, but now I've got some options. Fairly simple fabrication. Pretty good advice. Thanks Dave.
  11. I like the imagination here Nate. The handle does look a tad weird but maybe if you reduced all the dimensions a bit it may look like a better fit. Alan, right there with you...
  12. I've recently discovered a love for seax's and I am really liking yours. Simple and really well done.
  13. Hello all, I did try a search but I didn't come up with anything so if I've missed anything please point me in the right direction. What are some of the books you recommend for leather work? I would love to expand my depth, I've been enjoying some of my recent projects with leather. Thanks, -Tim
  14. I'm also assuming having hardware stores order material should be considered the same as ordering material online?
  15. Dion, I like the addition of the antler in the handle. It really adds to the overall piece. plus it looks seriously comfortable in the hand.
  16. Gabriel, that is a great suggestion! I am totally in! It looks like this is the likely the KITH for 2016, and even if it isn't I am loving the idea and will do it anyway.
  17. One thing to also consider is your position while grinding. Just looking at your posture on there, and nothing else. That's a rough posture to hold for any length of time. Hard on the arms, shoulders and mainly the low back. I understand you're using your body weight for the pressure against the belt but if your body won't hold that position for too long it may not be optimal. Just bringing your trunk up a few more degree's will have a huge impact on your ability to tolerate that posture for extended periods of time. Of course it's a compromise on the amount of pressure applied to the belt. Just something to think about before building. I am looking forward to the result!
  18. John, +1 on the string. I'm often reaching for the string first and the tape measure second!
  19. I really enjoy that pattern, is that the pipe threader doing the twisting?
  20. I've sharpened a few knives with that steel in the past and have found them to be a bit of a bugger to fix. Granted by the time I get them they are well beyond stropping and need some serious time on the stones. I tend to use diamond stones if they need a lot of work, or preferably water stones if possible if they aren't too bad. In my limited experience it takes work to set an edge but it's held very well if maintained. I always like to strop after sharpening to refine the edge as much as possible microscopically. I've been using Herb's Yellowstone stropping compound and it does wonders, even on a mirror edge.
  21. I come here to learn and be inspired, it's easy to to fall into what the locals here expect to see. Buck, Gerber, Schrade, etc. This is the reason I come to this site religiously. Thank you for sharing and inspiring.
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