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Tim Tracey

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Everything posted by Tim Tracey

  1. That's dash cunning. I'll have to keep that in mind when I get into carving. Just forged my carving knife today
  2. Thanks for the feedback Scott. I had to take a long hard look at it to remove my pride from your advice to really see what you meant. I can see a few things to help the flow immediately. The size of the bolster for one. Taking the handle diameter down a millimeter more overall, and adding a few millimeters to the handle length, would have helped tremendously. I just forged out some more wrought to make three more, with the wrought being thicker than my steel core so we'll see how they turn out. I also just bought the book "Norwegian Knife Making" by Havard Bergland to help out with some of my due diligence for research. Anyone read this one at all? Thanks again everyone for the feedback, it's much appreciated.
  3. Thanks for the feedback Kevin. You hit the nail on the head with both the thickness of the core vs. the cladding, and the copper dust. Lesson learned to start with a thinner core. I had started this one with three equal thickness pieces. I also ended up taping the bolster and pommel off, then sanding the bark down. Then taped the bark and sanded the bolster and pommel down. Now it looks good, no dark lines at all.
  4. Not charred but I think some tarnish from the copper fittings that got on the sides of the handle I like the look of it so i left it on there, I could sand it off but it adds to it.
  5. Thanks Gabriel! I've been pretty active in the shop this summer, actually churning out quite a few knives. They are mainly designed for the local hunters and bushcrafters up the U.P. here so nothing that would fit on this forum. I felt that this would fit in nicely here, so here is a better photo. Pictures work differently on my tablet so sometimes they look ok to me, but on my computer it's a different story.
  6. Thanks Phil, the bark is pretty easy to work with. The biggest pain is preparing it, peeling off all the papery stuff and making sure there are no holes or cracks in it. It takes a bit more than you think to create the handle as it compresses quite a bit, that and cutting/punching the holes for the tang for a tight fit is a bit tedious. There are some really great tutorials out there were I learned. But it's honestly one of my favorite materials at the moment. Here is a pretty good one. http://imageevent.com/paleoaleo/makingabirchbarkknifehandle
  7. Here is another puukko. This time a little fancier. Wrought Iron and 1095 San Mai puukko, birch bark handle and copper bolster and pommel. 8 inches overall with a 4 1/4 inch blade. I already know the handle is a quarter inch too short, but other than that I can honestly say I'm fairly pleased with this. But any hints, tips, admonitions, etc.
  8. I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this, unless I've just missed it, don't use the galvanized tub. The fumes as you thought are very harmful and could potentially kill. That aside, I'm reading this with interest because I just picked up a blower, and now need a forge! Good luck!
  9. I had the chance to see this beauty in person over the long weekend. As good a photographer as Scott is, it still doesn't quite do it justice. There is some chatoyance to the blade that just seems to work with the pattern. I also have to commend Scott on the carving on the handle, it's got a very organic feel to it. It just "fits".
  10. I've got good results with Tung oil. A light coat and let it sit for 10 minutes, wipe it off, and you can repeat in about 4 hours. I tend to build up a few layers (5-8ish) to make sure its evenly absorbed. Most of the wood I use for handles hasn't been stabilized so I'm just a tad paranoid.
  11. I have been sharpening for since I was 9 or 10 years old, and have been using everything from carborundum stones, ceramic, diamond, Arkansas, and water stones. Like Ron said, you will need to find what works for you but recently I have fallen in love with man made Japanese water stones. Not the cheapest but so so nice for me. Besides the prep time, it sped up my sharpening time. If I couldn't have those, I'd go with my DMT diamond stones, or Arkansas stones. Matt had mentioned a Belgian Blue, but they aren't what I'd call cheap. No need to get a whole bunch of grits at all. I'd recommend two or three at most. One course, or medium course stone, and a finer stone to polish the edge a bit more and a strop loaded with stropping compound to finish it off. I picked up a set of three DMT diamond stones for around $85 or so. 320, 600, and 800 grits. Covers most of the needs for me.
  12. Karl, Dave was right. That is a damn cool stand. So I think we can all assume that I'll be blatantly plagiarizing your idea. I may add a tray for punches and chisels though. I'll update once I get mine upgraded.
  13. Its hard to see but at the bottom there is a plated welded to the central post. I have only used it as a regular vice and haven't done anything with a hammer yet, but I suspect that I will need to extend the post to just below the screw box to really stiffen it up. If I do that, I'll probably put a table or shelf on as well.
  14. Scored a 4 inch jaw post vice in an auction recently for $15. While I was thinking about how and where to mount it when my girlfriends dad said he had a 100lb 3/4 inch steel slab used for a basketball hoop from a long time ago I could have. While waiting for him to call and ask for help, I get a text from my girlfriend saying he's all done with it! The plywood wheels on it make it very easy to move, especially with the vice acting as a handle and counterweight. Not a bad deal I think!
  15. Wished I was closer. (I'm in Upper Michigan) I'd be interested. Sorry to hear of your need to sell it, wish you the best. -Tim
  16. Those are some great finds! I'm sure you're going to get a lot of use out of them!
  17. Daniel, great chart. Turns out I'm drilling a bit hot on a regular basis. That should help. Now the other question...what about using a cutting aid. Rapid tap, etc?
  18. Love the puukko's, and your's no exception. Simple Beauty, that curly birch has just the right amount of "action"going on it it. Also a big fan of the forging finish as well. I bet your soon to be wife will love it for years to come. -Tim
  19. Here is a little paring knife I made my girlfriend. I used diluted Rutlands Black furnace cement on 1095 for this one. Probably one of the easiest things to do with a great effect. A little high maintenance because it's high carbon but overall a nice effect.
  20. I just used Rutlands black fiberglass gasket cement and it worked really well. I am thinking as long as it can withstand high enough temps to quench at it'll do the job.
  21. Those pommels are really spectacular, the one on that 1st hunter almost looks like it was "spun" in order to make that pattern. That's some nice work.
  22. This piece blows me away. Cross culture, and beautifully executed. I always enjoy seeing your work. Thank you for sharing. -Tim
  23. I've been thinking about making a set for myself. Those look really nice! So I gotta ask, how did you do the serations? Filing I assume?
  24. I missed the beginning of this post. Almost glad I did, I got to see the work further along and all at once. I am enthralled with this sword, the blend of Roman and Celtic influences really speak to me. Can't wait to see the final product.
  25. Well that does kinda suck. Sorry to hear it but it started out promising. Looking forward to the PW one!
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