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Tim Tracey

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Everything posted by Tim Tracey

  1. Thanks for the feed back guys. I love to learn, even if it's after the fact lol. Lauri, the blade is 120mm long, that puts it out of typical puukko range but isn't there another "class" of blade that is similar to a puukko but larger? I could be making that up. Gabriel, I am concerned about the shoulders too, so I'm going with a full half inch bolster in hopes that it will support the transition. The tang is 3/16th of inch (4mm) thick so it's not too fragile or so I hope.
  2. Thanks for sharing that. I've seen it before but it was good to watch it again. The control they have with those axes is awe inspiring!
  3. I apologize for the terrible picture, a photographer I am not. Please accept my apology and this better picture.
  4. Hey guys, Seeing the progress and results from this years KITH I was bitten by the bug and decided to make a puuko myself. While I didn't register for the KITH because I wasn't sure I'd be able to submit one to everyone's skill level, I wanted to participate in my own way. Forge from some left of 1075 I had laying around the blade is 4.75 in length, still playing with how long the handle will be but will have wrought iron bolster and pommel that I'll etch out. I'm planning on making a birch bark handle and am in the process of selecting, cleaning, and cutting the bark to suit. But I'm also considering doing a wooden handle as well, though not sure which variety yet. My one regret is that I didn't truly flat grind the edge bevel, I made a rookie mistake and ground the tip too thin early on and ended up burning the tip and having to re-profile to correct my mistake. So it will have a secondary bevel. Please let me know what you guys think, any hints, tips, tricks are appreciated. The wrought iron bolster is propping the blade up, still need to drill, file, and fit it.
  5. Wow, I can't wait to see it completed!
  6. Hey not bad at all! My first attempts were not so good as yours. Not that I am by any stretch very good, but with each attempt you learn a few new things to add to the next knife. I personally love the hammer marks in some pieces, especially when its polished well all around it.
  7. Greg, those are amazing! I'm always impressed by your work.
  8. Hey all, just wanted to give an update. All of your advice paid off, work hot, work slow, and its all good. Thanks again. -Tim
  9. Darn it, I just found this thread. Wayne, well done, enjoy the fun!
  10. Great start! I'm interested to see this turn out.
  11. Daniel, I can't say I'm into smelting....yet. Not sure that's something I want to learn all by myself. I can just see lots of wasted time and swearing. Not sure how many times I've watched the History channels episode for the Ulfbert with Ric, I just was amazed when he was coming up with the formula for the steel. Wow. But overall, I'm understanding a lot more with wrought iron. To sum it up; work in the yellow range, don't try and move too much at once, don't work too hot, or too cold. To be safe that is. Thank you for the great conversation guys, really gives me the opportunity to "dork out" and speak the lingo. -Tim
  12. A very cool take on the letter opener!
  13. Alan, I think you hit it right on the head. I was letting it get in to the orange range AND trying to move too much at once. I'll have to try it with a bit more patience. I'm learning that wrought iron is a whole different animal, but it's a pretty neat animal. I happened upon some wrought iron on accident. There are some old timbers from an old dam here that I pulled out thinking that it wasn't old enough to be wrought. But I did a break test, and being really excited I etched it with muriatic acid and low and behold!
  14. Hey guys, as all of you know, It's hard to see hours of thought, work, obsession, go out the window in a few moments. In my case, it's a draw knife. Forged the edged too thin and a failed heat treat. (Not a large enough quench tank). Anyone else feel like sharing some recent "learning experiences"?
  15. It is a pretty small piece, about a 1.5 inch cube. It was pretty rusted and rough, the only reason I forged it rather than ground it was to clean it up and to shape it for a bolster for a knife I am making. I knew it would cool fast for the size of the piece but it got out of working range so fast! Before I knew it I was causing cracks which I'm not going for. Almost thinking now that I should weld that little piece to the larger bar that I got it from so I don't waste it. And with that larger mass it'll be easier to roughly shape it to a bolster without cracking, although the cracking can like nice, I'd rather etch it. Etched wrought should look nice against birch bark C. Anderson, nice work!
  16. So I've come across a fair amount of wrought iron and found that working with it a very different experience. I did some work with a bit today and even though I worked it very hot, I couldn't believe how fast it cooled and caused cracks. I could only manage to get a few blows in before it cooled too much to work. Am I doing it wrong or do I really only have a very short working time with the material? Thanks in advance. -Tim
  17. One good day in the shop made my whole week better

  18. Gary, very true It turns out that I didn't make make mistake, just wandered from the ideal a tad.
  19. forgot the picture. Long day haha
  20. Dan, Owen, evidently I've got some more to learn about puukko's. At long last here is the picture, while Im sure everyone's imagination are great, this may help It sounds like I'm still good for authentic puukko, so good news there! Unless I'm able to move the tang, the handle will need to be wood instead of the birch bark I planned on.
  21. Thanks for the interesting read, i'll admit i didn't read all of it but even just picking a few things to read it was pretty informative Interesting side note, that university is in my home town!
  22. Wow guys thanks for all the suggestions! I tried to attach a photo but my new tablet is smarter than I am. I tend to call a large stick, a "persuader". I've got several persuaders around to give it a go. Alan, learned the hard way that the bevels being forged in REALLY move the tang. That's mostly why I'm in this pickle. Dave, essentially picture a Japanese style blade with the tang at the spine of the blade. But the tang isn't quite at the top. Hope that helps. The only concern I really have is because it's a stick tang the effort to move it will be the same process to re-move it. I think I'll give it a shot with a wooden persuader and if I can't center it, I'll just make a wooden handle to accommodate the goof.
  23. Hi guys, so I've forged myself into a little problem. So I got the bug to make a puukko, but as I was forging the tang I placed it in the top third of the blade instead of in the middle. Sorry I didn't take a picture, which would have helped. So the question is this: is it possible to move the tang (stick tang) down to the middle from the current position? I'm afraid my first attempt at a puukko has been thwarted. If it can't be adjusted, any suggestions for a remedy? Thanks,
  24. Absolutely beautiful! Jess is right, it reminded me of clouds. Keep doing what ever you did, its gorgeous!
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