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Tim Tracey

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Everything posted by Tim Tracey

  1. I second Alan's comment, the fit is beautiful I also really love the lines
  2. Fantastic results. I really do love your youtube video's showing the work you take on and I must say your wolfs tooth patterns are outstanding. Cheers
  3. C.Craft is right. The dimensions are gorgeous and I love the details on the sheath. I'd be proud to own that beauty.
  4. Wow forgot I posted on this and went to ask all over again! Is the 1.6# pounder still available? Wes, I'll check that site out. Thanks
  5. Greg, some of the most beautiful work I've ever seen. My jaw dropped when I saw this.
  6. Beautiful lines, those curves are graceful and just like c craft I keep going back to those pictures. Gorgeous work.
  7. Just received this bad boy today! Beautiful work, simply a pleasure to work with, and the quality of the blade is grade A. Thanks Grwg
  8. Thanks for the comment. I was concerned about moisture so I used stabilized wood, tung oil treatment, and wax to finish. It should be good to go. The rsul road spike knives are popular around here, lots of history so its fun and easy to make. Besides I've got a while box of them!
  9. Work has kept me busy recently but I've managed to squirrel away some time to work on some smaller pieces. Between work and the bitter cold temps up here in the U.P. my time in the shop has been pretty limited. I dream of the day where I have a better shop where the weather won't be as much of a factor. But I digress... My friend asked me to make him a fillet knife, never having forged one I was nervous to make one for him so I, and dont judge me , I bought a blank. I was too concerned about the heat treatment of a long fillet knife and there isn't much out there for reading or online that I was able to find. So all I really did was put the scales on and practice some sheath work, and tried my hand at taking some nice pictures to make up for the lack of forge work. The knife is an overall 16 inches with a 10.5 inch blade with curly maple scales. Beautiful wood, I found out first hand how hard chatouyance is to capture in a picture. Mild steel pins, peened and very slightly domed with a brass lined lanyard hole. The second knife is more of a letter opener since it's low carbon steel rail road spikes that were recovered from the trails that used to be rail roads for all the copper mining that used to be so prevailant in this area. Not to go into too much history but a small town where I live was almost the capital of Michigan. Overall about 8 inches with a false swage on the top. I left plenty of hammer marks and "forge finish" with a beeswax finish to keep it interesting and to contrast with the high polish areas.
  10. I'd call it a happy accident. That's a nifty blade plus bonus points for being integral.
  11. The little walrus is beautiful! My jaw literally dropped when I saw that. Not to down play the sword and bearded axe by any means, but I'm currently obsessed with bold pattern welds and puukko type styles. I really enjoy seeing your work, thanks for sharing.
  12. Gotta say I'm interested. I'm still trying to find the hammer that speaks to me. I'm currently using a peddinghaus nordic style hammer and while I really like it, I've been really wanting to try the Japanese style or Viking style hammer (depending on view) and if I can get my hands on a sammer Id be all the happier
  13. Great lines, the choices of materials were well matched. Not sure why but I just love the colors. I am with you on the small blades, perhaps the most useful blades ever. I think I may have my next project.
  14. I'm all about the puukko! I like in the worlds second largest Finnish populated area, ever since I moved here it's been a facination of mine.
  15. And I believe Ric Furrer is in Wisconsin, not Minnesota. Got the website right though, just spent the last 20 minutes of my life on there
  16. I agree with GBrackett with the drill press, and Gary on the 2x72 grinder. Those are my most used tools after the tong, forge, and hammers. Save up for a decent grinder, unless you're mechanically inclined enough to build your own, and use files until then. You can get by with a cheaper drill press if your bits are quality. I've been using my $140 press very successfully so far.
  17. It's too cold to work in the shop :(

  18. I don't have to much to add that hasn't already been discussed, but as far as cleaning up the bevels and sharpening on the water stones, pay attention to the angles and I don't think there is as need to go above the 6000 grit stone, the 1200 grit is mainly used for razors. At the 6000 grit I get a high polish and extremely sharp edge more suitable for chopping
  19. Hi Scott, thank you for the offer. I'll have to check out the shards page. I had the pleasure of meeting David last year at a knife show, he was the other bladesmithing I was referring to earlier in the post. I almost walked away with one of his beautiful knives that day.
  20. Rob, that is a great idea too! I think I have another project to add to the list.
  21. I had the same problem with my anvil. It had some broken edges and a fairly nasty sway. I used an angle grinder to clean up the edges and pitting, feeling often with my hand to ensure it wasn't getting too warm, then cleaning it all up with flap wheels. I didn't get the sway out for fear of getting through the face but did manage to get to flats leading into the sway, which has been said is pretty handy for straightening or knocking scale off a work piece. All told it took me about 10 hours of careful grinding. Good luck!
  22. I paid a buck a pound for the swage, I couldn't in good consciousness not tell him what it was. As much as I love a good deal, I can't take advantage of someone...too much. I think I'll take the idea of getting the largest shank hardy I can find (Probably an inch) a modify it to fit by welding on to the shank. Lots of ways to skin a cat I suppose. Runals, I'm trying to learn that trick for essentially the same reasons but also cause there is no calibration or tools needed. Alan, once I get the gumption to build a stand for the swage, shoulders, hot punching, and any tooling I can dream of will be used with it.
  23. PM sent, I'll take blade number 3.
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