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Isaac Myers

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  1. I've recently attempted to jump on the "make your own iron/steel" bandwagon, and hope that I might get some pointers here. I live in southeastern Ohio, and evidenced by several standing (and less-than-standing) furnaces in the area, there was definitely a substantial amount of iron production at one time. I looked into mindat, ODNR's website, and a few other resources, to see if there were records of any iron mines in the area--but with very little success. Yesterday, I spent the day driving around, and walking along river/creek edges, and found about 25 lbs of partially magnetic...stuff. It
  2. Thanks everyone! It's been slow going in the shop this summer, and it's about to get slower, due to an upcoming move. Here's another wrought iron/1095 knife; but this time, it's a tad more sensible (I was really in need of a kitchen knife, not a pile of seaxes). A bit more shaping on the handle, and a few scratches to be buffed. I like how it's turning out, I'll try and finish a full set eventually. Here's the progress on the seax. The plan for is sort of an amalgam of the Gilling sword and the Beagnoth seax. Alot more work to be done on the handle. I'm due for a camera soon, so ho
  3. Very nice, I'll keep an eye on this WIP. I'm working on a very similar sword, at the moment, and have encountered a few of the same issues. I've seen solved is freeze up. I have a propane fill hookup to a 500 gallon tank, so keeping propane topped off is no issue, however, in other situations, I've seen people use waterbaths. Get a trashcan/50 gallon drum with your tank, and fill with water. In the winter months, unless you have a heated shop, a low temp antifreeze should keep your barrel from freezing. Good luck on the finish work!
  4. Not sure how well this is translated, but hit the cc button on the lower right corner; english subs. I was only able to watch a few minutes, but the captions seem coherent.
  5. I like it! A spring fuller? I've noticed, on a few of my practice pieces, that nice wide fullers like that are difficult to keep consistent dimensions; kudos. What's your plan for the hilt?
  6. Here's a bit of an update on the seax; I've been extremely busy, so these got put on the backburner for a few weeks. Just a simple copper inlay in the seax. I'm considering adding some detail/pattern to the copper--haven't decided quite yet.
  7. Thanks! I haven't tried it, yet; I've heard it's pretty similar to HCl (which I have), but I'll probably put in an order soon, just to play with it a bit.
  8. Hi all, below are a few of the projects I've been dorking around with, the past couple weeks. The first from the left, is a wrought-iron pattern-welded seax, with a 1095 edge. I intentionally over-etched it, to really define the layers, unfortunately, it had some really heavy pitting in a few spots, that maim the aesthetics. The second-over is a file-knife that I've been procrastinating; It's effectively a test piece for a later project--it'll have "dagger-ized" Petersen L hilt, when finished--it needs a bit more draw-filing before HT. Next is my KITH Puukko, and a test knife (trying out Ald
  9. I should modify my previous post a bit--wire wrap is fine, but I've had issues with several things; wires becoming loose, wires burning through, sliding, sometimes difficult to remove, ECT. They work much better with nice, flat steel--that quickly welds. But I've had alright success with thicker, stainless wire. I still stand by my earlier bit-- if you have access to a welder, I'd take advantage of that. For me, it's much easier to tack the billet together, and generally won't burn through One thing that's happened to me, twice now, is once you get to forge welding close to the handle, the
  10. I'll have to disagree with you, there--very nice projects; nice looking damascus. For sure, keeping an eye on that WIP!
  11. I've done a bit of casting over the years--but usually pretty small pieces--fittings like that are quite an undertaking! Greensand casting is probably your best bet--if you don't have a vacuum chamber, spincaster, ect. I tried plaster of paris for awhile, and I would get about 60% success. But the big thing there is making sure it is very dry (like put it in the oven at 150 for 2 hours, then up the increment by 50 or so degrees per hour for 5 or so hours). I usually do the wax burnout and drying at the same time with that. I think the recipes Dan posted have some merit--I think I'll play with
  12. As the most of the heads I've seen are pewter, you could form wax into the shape you want, and cast directly onto the tang, as seen here: http://api.ning.com/files/njXs5tvBFwNBajWiq2K4d-3PM2c*Ng7VI2Mu-sZB16ogSLbM8HGAH*L-Gdgn4gJgQxO3uIC2BoCVIDZYBudXL0xMmiEZED3k/scandi1.jpg Pewter is low heat enough that you could do this straight into plaster of paris (that's very very dry). A Pd/Pt/Sn cure silicone will work too, just a lot more expensive. Or you could cast a blob of pewter on there, and carve it down, as well. Pewter, depending on alloy, also cold enough to cast onto wood directly--gener
  13. 1.Rudolf Harmse 2.James Fuller 3.Gabriel R. Paavola 4.Emiliano Carrillo 5.Kevin Hopkins 6.John F. Ellis 7.Michael Lenaghan 8.George Ezell 9.Nate Runals 10.John Kruse-Kanyuck 11.Hloh 12.Dan Bourlotos 13.David Fischer 14. Derrick Phillips 15. Gary T. (jajimi) 16. Pieter-Paul Derks 17. Christopher Price 18. Juho S. Voutilainen 19. John Page 20. dylan holderman 21. Brian Dougherty 22. Tre Asay 23. Sean Finlayson 24. Hunter Lottsfeldt 25. Isaac Myers
  14. I'm by no means an expert, but I've played a bit with it. Make sure your steels are compatible--I tried to weld about a meter long strip of 1080 to patterned wrought, and nearly lost everything, because as the materials cool, they shrink differently. Someone more experienced could probably get something out of it, but that's a quite some time down the road. Another big thing is cleaning materials beforehand. I have varied size steel/salvage--so I often resize. I've noticed inclusions, delamination, ect are much more common if you don't grind off the scale. Also, especially for your first few t
  15. I really like this piece--excited to see the end product! Do you work your fuller your fuller, or do you cut it? It looks very nice--great job.
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