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Everything posted by larsjacobsen

  1. Any kind of welder / weld will do. I have used stick, mig and tig....and they all do fine. Remember to clean/ grind the surfaces and keep them flat. Temperature is the same as any other weld ...1200/1300 degrees celsius. After the first weld I keep the billet at forgewelding temperature for 10 - 15 min. ....To ensure proper bonding. as you will notice from the pictures ...the scale is different from plain carbon steel and the activity in the laminated steel depends on the kind of stainless used. 316 stainless gives almost no activity ...while 400 series ( 416, 420, Ae
  2. Learning to grind fullers and making stainless / damascus san mai
  3. Hi ...and a merry Christmas to all of you Handle is G10 and Micarta and stabilized Skate board. My son is a good skater and used to be in the top three i Denmark in his teens...so skateboard from one of his old worn out boards seemed the right choise. Blade is 304 stainless over Uddeholm 26c ....
  4. I’m using the wheel from Jantz knife supplies ...check them out....I start out with an 80 grit belt and finish with a Trizact 337. The wheels need slow speed or they will get to warm ...
  5. Bought small wheels a about a year ago .....been practicing on a couple of blades. If you prefer beating them in ...do that ....If you just like everything about blades ....buy them right away
  6. Yes ....a litte swim in dilluted ferric...
  7. Finished this yesterday ....Blade is 420 stainless and O1 laminate. Handle is brown canvas micarta and stainless corby bolts. Got to use my new stamp for the leather sheath and it turned out pretty nice ...,..
  8. I actually use different sized ballbearing balls to flare the tube - they are smooth and do not scratch the tube
  9. Blade is san mai 80crv2 and mild steel - micarta handle with stainless corbybolts - sheath has stainless fittings too. Blade made in 2011 ....one of the first large ones I made. Did not want to finish it at first due to a few small welding flaws ...but decided to anyway.
  10. Yes ...it was made after assembly
  11. 5 inch hunter with handle of black, brown and tan linen micarta and brass. Blade is random pattern in 15n20 and 1095. Dangler sheath in halftanned leather.
  12. I have made several blades with stainless cladding over carbon steel. The different stainless steel types give different results. I have used 316L, 304, A-ebl, 12c27, 416 and 1.4034 ( a 420 series steel ) The 420, and all the other knifesteel types all show carbon migration while almost none is found when using 316 stainless. A few examples shown - only one with 316 stainless ....2 pictures of the knife. I do not polish my knifeblades to a mirror polish ....theese blades were all hand finished to 800 grit except the 316 which was finished with a 400 belt finish.
  13. I was born close to Illerup Ådal ...... . Ådal ( Adal ) is Danish for a valley created by erosion .....
  14. Wrought iron, pure nickel and high carbon steel some stabilized ebony and stabilized pear wood. Forged the blade over a year ago and I’m glad I finally found time to finish it.
  15. If you clean your steel and keep them flat almost any steel will forge weld in a canister or with a seem welded around the billet ( san mai ) I have used O1, 52100, OFS ( old file steel ) , O2, White paper and stainless 316, 304, Aebl, 420...... I heat the billet at forge welding temperature for 15 - 20 min before the first weld and also for at least 10 minutes when welded or between welds. Steels have to be the right thickness in san mai .....if not the core will be either to thick or too thin or there will be way too much grinding on the outer layers. I still get this wrong
  16. Love the work you do Gary - very nice and an example to follow ....
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