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Everything posted by larsjacobsen

  1. Yes ....a litte swim in dilluted ferric...
  2. Finished this yesterday ....Blade is 420 stainless and O1 laminate. Handle is brown canvas micarta and stainless corby bolts. Got to use my new stamp for the leather sheath and it turned out pretty nice ...,..
  3. I actually use different sized ballbearing balls to flare the tube - they are smooth and do not scratch the tube
  4. Blade is san mai 80crv2 and mild steel - micarta handle with stainless corbybolts - sheath has stainless fittings too. Blade made in 2011 ....one of the first large ones I made. Did not want to finish it at first due to a few small welding flaws ...but decided to anyway.
  5. Yes ...it was made after assembly
  6. 5 inch hunter with handle of black, brown and tan linen micarta and brass. Blade is random pattern in 15n20 and 1095. Dangler sheath in halftanned leather.
  7. I have made several blades with stainless cladding over carbon steel. The different stainless steel types give different results. I have used 316L, 304, A-ebl, 12c27, 416 and 1.4034 ( a 420 series steel ) The 420, and all the other knifesteel types all show carbon migration while almost none is found when using 316 stainless. A few examples shown - only one with 316 stainless ....2 pictures of the knife. I do not polish my knifeblades to a mirror polish ....theese blades were all hand finished to 800 grit except the 316 which was finished with a 400 belt finish.
  8. I was born close to Illerup Ådal ...... . Ådal ( Adal ) is Danish for a valley created by erosion .....
  9. Wrought iron, pure nickel and high carbon steel some stabilized ebony and stabilized pear wood. Forged the blade over a year ago and I’m glad I finally found time to finish it.
  10. If you clean your steel and keep them flat almost any steel will forge weld in a canister or with a seem welded around the billet ( san mai ) I have used O1, 52100, OFS ( old file steel ) , O2, White paper and stainless 316, 304, Aebl, 420...... I heat the billet at forge welding temperature for 15 - 20 min before the first weld and also for at least 10 minutes when welded or between welds. Steels have to be the right thickness in san mai .....if not the core will be either to thick or too thin or there will be way too much grinding on the outer layers. I still get this wrong although I try to keep a record of my works. I have never used a tube - so looking forward to seeing the result
  11. Love the work you do Gary - very nice and an example to follow ....
  12. Made this knife for my nephew Anders , who married his lovely Isabella last saturday. Twist damascus, G10 and stabilized elm. Matching leather sheath ....Did not really know if I could match the sheath with the wood ....but if I had failed I would have colored the sheath black to cover the failed attempt.
  13. Motorcycle chain and Hitache edge steel ....a gift for my friend Flemming who turned 50 last weekend...... Kitchen knife Lars
  14. I welded three pieces of steel to make the anvil on my hammer.....total weight of anvil is app. 500 pounds. ....hammerhead is 45 pounds
  15. Oh ...forgot that I posted this ....sorry ...Will W you are absolutely right ..... - now I will just have to decide what to do with tje billet. Any suggestions ?
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