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Forest Xavier

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About Forest Xavier

  • Birthday 07/18/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Irving, NY
  • Interests
    Philosophy, Film & Television, Carpentry/Woodworking, Beer Brewing/Wine Making/Distilling Spirits, HEMA, Western History, Fantasy/Sci-Fi, Knife/Sword Collecting, Blade Design and Production
  1. Thank you Jeremy and Alan all your guys help is always appreciated. One more question related to this topic, what is the depth that the steel hardens to? I do know it is proportional to the time it is kept at critical temp and thickness of the steel, which I’m sure has to do with the heat being consistent through the entire piece, but as a general rule of thumb if one were to heat treat a deep hardening steel, soak 15 min @ critical what would be the depth that it would harden to?
  2. My question is this, with a deep hardening steel (1084,5160,etc) could one just cut out a blank profile, harden, temper, then grind the bevels in? I know this is a bit backward but with a thinner knife (say under .25”) shouldn’t the hardness be the same through the entire blade and wouldn’t matter? Or am I just an inexperienced noob...also I’m sure there is the short yes/no answer but also why it would or would not be advantageous to do it this way? Thanks in advance!
  3. Gorilla glue works well for certain things but absolutely piss poor for others, for porous materials (wood, cloth, some foams) it works fantastic as the expansion of the glue actually seeps into the material you are glueing, that’s why wetting the wood (in the directions of you read them) actually allows the glue to do that. Now with non porous materials is bonds very poorly and sheers very easily off the materials, an example is that I used some gorilla glue to mount a ceramic plate onto a metal mounting bracket for a bird feeder, well it lasted a year and then wind storm hit and off flew th
  4. Alan..1” thick at the base (where the blade meets the cross guard) and equallateral triangle Charles...I don’t know man it might look sweet but I’m not looking to make a steel pig tail lol
  5. I’ve been mulling around in my mind about making a rondel dagger with a triangular crossection (haven’t even dedicated pencil to paper yet so very early development). I was thinking of making it 11ish inches (blade alone, not including tang), and a width at the base of the blade of about 1 inch, then a linear taper to the tip. The tip is going to be started at a point in the blade where the width is 1/4” and taper from there rapidly to the point at a 30° degree angle, hopefully giving a more reenforced tip. Lastly I was thinking of doing a hollow grind on the blade for the first 2/3rds and l
  6. Thanks Guys...Jerrod I agree that in a battle scenario it is unlikely that any sort of repair is possible, that's why I said "some what doable", perhaps could be done but probably never would in a real life scenario. Alan...when you say socketed but not welded I'm guessing it was a single piece of steel/iron that was formed over a mandrel or some other similar tool to form the socket either before or after forging out the spear? And I guess I did get some what off my question...sorry rambling a bit at 5 am trying to stay awake at work ....but more using todays metals (monosteels) w
  7. The basic question I have is which is better... a socketed spear head or a tang spear head, and why? With little research it can be seen that both have existed thru history, as I understand it most eastern spears were designed with a tang and it appears most western spear were socketed. Obviously the first historic spears were made with a tang as they were stone and you can't very well carve a socket from flint, during the bonze age there was a divergence where socketing became more popular in western civilization. I assume that this was due to the ease of casting the bronze, making a s
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