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Wesley Alberson

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Wesley Alberson last won the day on December 7 2016

Wesley Alberson had the most liked content!

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About Wesley Alberson

  • Birthday 01/15/1997

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    Rougemont, NC
  • Interests
    Ancient Materials Science

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  1. You would be better off using materials that cannot melt. Plastics and caulk will easily melt and burn from the heat of the forge. If you want to make cheap a forge with a liner, I would suggest making it out of a wash basin and some refractory clay. Here is a link to a design: http://allensonarmory.blogspot.com/2014/04/charcoal-washtub-forge.html As for the stand, wood and plastics have really no place around the forge. What fuel are you planning on using? Charcoal or wood?
  2. I absolutely love that! It's like the base of a pillar.
  3. Thanks! Here's a picture of the scabbard. I am a newbie at leather work, so I made a thin oak scabbard and a frog for it. It was inspired by Japanese hunting knives, which have a similar setup.
  4. Just copy the URL and paste it. It works for me.
  5. That's interesting, did they do that to make sure that the blade doesn't rattle for covert operations?
  6. The knife isn't done, I will polish the bevels and give the fittings a better finish. I am just happy that the handle design works, so I went ahead and posted it.
  7. I really like the concept of the test blade, so I decided to make another one. The test knife is barely usable as a knife because the handle is so short, and it isn't too ergonomic, either. I forged a drop point knife, and the design has worked out very well so far, it is still a WIP. One design flaw of the test knife is that it uses 2 wedges, and there is nothing to align the wedges. To remedy this, I forged a groove on the butt plate going from side to side, and I am only using one wedge. The groove in the butt plate keeps the wedge perpendicular to the tang, and it also gives the wedge assembly a lower profile. It is easy to take apart with any hammer and a wooden/metal block, however there is so much friction that it is very unlikely for the wedge to come out by itself. The wedge itself is filed flush to the sides of the butt plate, so bumping it against something will not make it come loose. I really like the shape of this one, I have never made a drop point with a ricasso like this. A closeup of the assembly. Because the groove is round, the wedge is round on the bottom and flat on top to match up with the tang. A traditional architectural blacksmithing joint on a knife is an idea that I have had in my mind for a while. I'm glad that I can fully realize this, and I haven't seen any other knives that are put together quite like this. I know that some knives have a hidden pin in the pommel that act like this, but I haven't seen anything that takes a wedged tenon joint quite as literally as this.
  8. Cool!
  9. Thanks! My tongs are never pretty, but if it looks stupid and it works, it ain't stupid!
  10. Oh, that is really cool!
  11. White hot is way too hot. I learned that the hard way. The steel just cracks and crumbles when you get it that hot, and what doesn't break off is damaged forever. I think that the heat grows the crystals inside so much that it just crumbles when you hammer it. Grain size is affected by the heat you get it to, not how long it is held at a certain heat. Letting it cool to a red is okay as long as you are not working it at that temperature. Color of the steel is subjective, so I would heat the billet until you pull it out and see wispy "steam" coming off of the billet. I think that this is the borax vaporizing, and it's a good indicator of a welding heat. Work it at a welding heat when you are drawing out the billet, but once you start forging to shape, the welds should be good by that time. The longer you keep the billet at welding heat, the more molecule migration occurs, and the more decarburization occurs, too, unless the billet is in an oxygen-free environment.