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Wesley Alberson

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Wesley Alberson last won the day on May 24 2018

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About Wesley Alberson

  • Birthday 01/15/1997

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  • Location
    Rougemont, NC
  • Interests
    Ancient Materials Science

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  1. I screw the boards to my workbench table, just diagonal screws will do. There is a scraper I made from a piece of curved leaf spring, just a 30 degree or so bevel keeping one side flat. It looks like a giant version of what you would use to carve the inside of a Japanese scabbard. I just keep a 120 grit belt on my grinder to keep it sharp and go to town. The edge will shear the pins, components, and everything without digging into the fiberglass board, and it leaves behind the solder in the holes so it polishes up really shiny. Once both sides are done I clean all surfaces with acetone, drill
  2. A Nakiri with sheoak handle and burl spacers. CrV2 and concrete saw blade. A slicer with Mango, Sheoak, and Bog Oak. CrV2, concrete saw blade, and wrought. Another slicer with Bog Oak and Tigress GCarta. CrV2 and concrete saw blade. The trio: I'm not sure if video links work, but these are the handles before I glued them. Hidden dowel method. https://i.imgur.com/zAJTuTd.mp4 Some ECarta I made recently. My favorite is on the left, from an old power supply. Mark Green at the smelt at
  3. In October 2020 I finished up this gate project with an automatic opening system, lights, the whole shebang. It was nerve racking that I couldn't stage anything before setting it in place. I made sure to measure everything thrice and rig up the anchors so they were in the right spot when the footings were poured. The leaves are made from old boiler pipe sections from an old industrial laundry factory that was in Durham, NC. It's been over 2 years since I last posted to the forum, so this is a long overdue update on what I've been up to. A friction fo
  4. Are there any other makers doing custom knives for people with MS/other motor disabilities? The mass-produced ones I've seen look boring, and this is inspiring me to make some!
  5. Correct. They are a little convex. I start with a jig that I made for getting most of the material at the edge removed. I forged these thin enough that I was able to heat treat them before grinding the bevel. I use a jig because that keeps me from slipping and accidentally getting 36 grit gouges on the forge finished part. With the bevels flat ground most of the way, I then use higher grit belts freehand because the bevel is already established. I grind at an angle on the platen, and with the nature of freehand grinding, it's pretty much impossible to get a perfect flat grind.
  6. And also a cool little bamboo stand I made for my kitchen knives. The bottom one has become my personal knife. I bring it along to show customers how carbon steel will patina over time.
  7. It has been ages since I have posted here. I have been getting into local markets to sell some of my knives and other forged things, so I've been making some kitchen knives. They are much more popular than my utility knives and historical/fantasy stuff, although my folders sell well too. Most of the kitchen knives were forged from 1095. I got them really thin, too. I made these knives a bit too triangular, they were all from the same forging session. Usually there is more of a drop point quality to kitchen knives so the handle and edge are more parallel. The handles are all stabilized woods, m
  8. One detail that I left out of this write up is an experimental process. Now its always easier to make the face of the guard flat because when it hits one shoulder you know it hits the other. Lets say you want the face of the guard to have a certain look to it, like a chevron or a radius. You can punch the oversize hole, then make a second punch that matches the dimensions of the first, only the very end of the punch has the desired shape you want. When you deform the guard to make the smaller radius, it conforms to that shape. Essentially what this does is it makes the smaller radius all one
  9. I have never seen a full antler guard like this, very cool!
  10. Here is a write-up for a process I demonstrated at the SBA: Forged and Hot Fitted Knife Bolsters/Guards Wes Alberson It is a curse to be an impatient bladesmith. There are so many little processes in knifemaking that give a whole new meaning to tedium. One such process has been emphasized more and more in modern times, and that is guard fitting. The main purpose of bolsters and guards is to act as a surface for the handle material to rest against, giving the handle material extra support. Another function is to protect your hand from accidentally slipping onto the blade.. The ac
  11. I love that pattern, I think "resonance" would be a good name for it.
  12. Your ferrules give your knives a classy feel that you just don't get with integrals. All the materials are really balanced.
  13. These are stunning examples! Are there any tutorials on how to make an antler sheath? They look like they were split in half, hollowed out, and riveted back together somehow.
  14. Usually when I rivet tongs I cut a piece of the rivet material so that it is hanging on by a little bit. Then I heat it up, put the rivet through both holes, twist it off, and start hammering. Using a rivet block under the tongs is probably best so that you don't run the risk of bending the rivet instead of mushrooming it. Then I heat up the tongs and rivet, mushroom the rivet the rest of the way, and start opening and closing it to loosen the action.
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