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Wesley Alberson

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Wesley Alberson last won the day on May 1

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About Wesley Alberson

  • Birthday 01/15/1997

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rougemont, NC
  • Interests
    Ancient Materials Science

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  1. Fullers are usually used to decrease the mass of the blade without sacrificing the strength, like an I-beam. As for the handle, you can make the tsuka out of wood and lacquer it. You can wrap the handle with silk cord or artificial silk to make it really grippy, too.
  2. I tested it today and it works! The manner in which I tested it might have not been the safest, but I didn't die, so that's a plus. I don't know much about electricity, so that would be great if someone can help me out with choosing the right things for this. I don't know if I should use this for a power hammer or a 2x72 grinder. I have heard that 2hp is plenty for a tire hammer. If I were to go on the grinder route, I'm not sure what kind of controller I would have to get to manage the speed. What do you guys think? Is it better suited for a power hammer or a grinder?
  3. Aagh! My brain!
  4. Whoa! That's really cool, much more intricate than I imagined.
  5. Excellent finish on everything! To take it apart, do you just rotate the wrought pommel? Getting it threaded just right must have been tricky!
  6. What happens if the work touches the coil?
  7. Does the coffee stabilize the oxide layer of the FeCl so it is more permanent?
  8. I would made it thinner, but I need the mouth of the scabbard to be as wide around as the handle. In order to get the scabbard super thin, the scabbard would have to have an inwards curve, which wouldn't be a bad idea.
  9. I finished my first puukko, and I have been working on a wedged tenon design that allows the knife to be taken apart. This started as a file. The handle is two opposite pieces of a maple crotch. The wedged tenon design works by having an angled groove in the butt plate, and a wedge that is driven in from the lower side of the groove. This way, the surface of the wedge that touches the tang is perpendicular to the tang, keeping the pressure in line with the tang. The scabbard is also my first time wet forming. I have seen some leuku sheaths with a cutout in the sheath, probably for keeping moisture within the scabbard from rapidly rusting the blade. I like that I can see a bit of the hamon peeking through, too. The part that connects the belt loop to the sheath is a piece of aluminum. The wedge design really works, and I'm excited to make more knives this way.
  10. Thanks for the tips! My forging is not as efficient as I would like. I really need to make some punches. One problem I had with punching the hole in the guard was that the punch was too wide and left gaps, which is why I filed the rest of the way. One thing that I realize now is that I could punch a hole slightly larger than the tang, then just heat the guard up and hammer on the guard while it is up against the shoulders of the blade/slightly away from the shoulders. The gaps on the sides would close, and as long as the tang is properly tapered, the guard should come off.
  11. Forging cold didn't seem to cause any problems. I know it can cause stress in the blade and it's an inefficient use of effort, it's just a habit of mine because the hammer I use still moves steel when it is a barely visible red. The fittings were indeed mild steel. The bolster can be made of any softer metal, however the kind of pressure created at the butt plate requires something tougher. The wedge scrapes against the tang when it is being tapped in, it's inevitable, which is why I round over the inside of the tang hole to keep sharp edges from digging into the wedge. I suppose that the butt plate could be made of a soft metal, as long as the wedge is made of steel and it doesn't have sharp corners that will dig into the copper/brass. Ideally, the wedge would be made of hardened high-carbon steel so it doesn't get marks from the tang, but the way it works now still works very well.
  12. Thanks! Today I etched the blade and I got some good hamon activity and turnback. I mixed up my own clay, using Dave Friesen's simple recipe of 1:1:1 clay, charcoal powder, and rock dust. It probably would have had more activity if it was quenched in water, but I'm happy with the way it looks.
  13. This is a WIP Puukko. I am polishing the blade last on this one. It has a hamon, but I still need to polish the blade to really bring it out. The handle is a maple crotch. 2 opposite pieces that have been carved halfway each and glued together. The wedge for this one is flush to the bolster, and only the tang sticks out a little.