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Wesley Alberson

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Wesley Alberson last won the day on May 24 2018

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About Wesley Alberson

  • Birthday 01/15/1997

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    Male
  • Location
    Rougemont, NC
  • Interests
    Ancient Materials Science

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  1. How do people figure out how long to quench their sword blades so that it just crosses the martensite start point (to straighten blades right after quench)? I have heard that people do it about 7 seconds or so, but I'm planning on quenching something on the thinner side. I know I might break the blade in the process if I get it wrong, but I'm willing to sacrifice a blade or two in order to learn.

    1. Jerrod Miller

      Jerrod Miller

      You may want this as a thread instead of an update, but for starters you don't want to get to the Ms before straightening, you want to get past the pearlite nose then hopefully do all of your straightening before you start forming any martensite (which is virtually impossible unless you are using a salt bath, so living with a little martensite formation will have to be tolerated).  This will all be very specific to alloy, blade geometry, quench media, and the like.  I would recommend studying the TTT for the alloy you want to use.  Then if you can embed/attach a thermocouple to a test blade, run a few quenches.  You can do multiple quenches on your test piece, and it doesn't have to be finished nearly as much as a proper blade would be (since you won't really care about cracks, warps, etc.).  Your test piece could even be mild steel.  It just needs to be pretty close to the blade geometry and run through the heat and quench cycle as if it were your blade.  

    2. Dave Stephens

      Dave Stephens

      Jerrod is a real professional that works in a foundry (or whatever you call it) . . . but he's the real deal, so listen to him for sure.  But here's a simple answer: Quench until it stops vibrating. Don't forget . . . pull the sword out too soon and it'll be hot enough to flame, which is dangerous, so err on the side of quenching too long.  In general, however, after it stops vibrating you'll have enough time to fix warps, etc. Also, if you're really worried about warping/sabering/corkscrewing, you can HT at uniform thickness and grind in your bevels. If I have a profile that I really want to be precise about, I do that.

      Luck!

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