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Wesley Alberson

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Everything posted by Wesley Alberson

  1. I used 1095 and natural clay, rock, ash, etc. that I mixed up myself. It actually popped off of the other side during HT, so one side has an active hamon, and the other side is more linear, but I am keeping it this way because I think it looks cool. (or maybe I don't want to mess the current one up! )
  2. I wish I could get the lines closer, but the handle is so small already. Next time I will forge the base of the blade closer to the width of the handle.
  3. I wasn't going for anything traditional other than the general shape and mount. I have my first active hamon on this knife. I just have to polish it and make it pop somehow. I think that I will do the vinegar with soap etch method and some sort of polisher, I have seen Flitz used most often. This hamon is really interesting to me because it has three lines on both sides. I think you can see the main hamon line and the shadow above it, but there is also a small line angling back near the base, too. There's probably a name for it. I have nearly finished the handle. It is antler, red tip, and hol
  4. That sword is very nice! Спасибо!
  5. The edge doesn't go that deep into the habaki, actually. It does go in a little ways, but I would say 80-90% of the habaki is covering the tang. You will still see an unsharpened area coming out from the habaki. It's a combat knife, so soldiers would either use it to slash or stab. There is no need to use the area of the blade closest to the handle.
  6. I'm going to forge out a straight, contoured copper guard from the copper I melted (used to be wire and pipe), and spacer made from a big, flat brass key (if I can find it in my mess). The copper would be quenched multiple times in borax-rich water to give it a bright red color. The wood will be either Ipe or Thermory Ash from a deck and pergola job. I will try to make an iron fuchi just to see if I can, I feel that it would look better as a transition into the handle, rather than butting up to a spacer. I am tempted to make a semi-functional habaki because it acts as a shroud for the other fi
  7. Very nice, crisp lines! it looks like a lot of grinding to do on the tang, though. Make sure that its widest and thickest point is at the notches, and also make sure that the base of the edge-side notch (hamachi) flares out slightly. You barely even see it. Don't sharpen the blade down all the way, either. There should be a small, unsharpened area at the base so the habaki/guard isn't resting on a thin piece of metal. Aim for a sweet hamon! I can't wait so see what happens, W1 is some cool stuff.
  8. I got this up to 120 grit, I love the look and feel of the blade. Maybe I'm just predisposed to bowie knives because I'm American! I have always wanted to make a peaked spine on a bowie knife, like you see on Japanese weapons. It looked weird when I put it on paper, but I love the way the grind on this turned out. All of the spine lines converge and meet at the point where the clip starts. The clip also spans the full length of the blade, meeting at the top of the start of the spine. It really doesn't look like any of my original plans, but I like the direction this has taken. You might be ab
  9. Wow! That knife has an ancient elven /fairy tale look to it. I love the belly to the blade and the slight recurve near the base, it's like a stretched-out khukuri.
  10. I like both of them! Especially the stubby one.
  11. Thanks for all of the funny comments, guys! And yes, Mr. Furrer, my immense skill often gets in the way of my work. It's a blessing and a curse!
  12. I saw this one on Instagram. It is a beautiful, solid looking knife!
  13. Finally! I quenched the blade and it came out straight. I failed quenching the second try. I decided that I didn't want to do the whole clay process again, so I just normalized, straightened, and heated up the edge. I haven't polished it up yet, but I have a vague idea of where the hamon is from the area that I heated up.
  14. Good idea, Tim. How about edit in full specs if it isn't too much of a hassle? Like blade length, OA length, materials used, etc.
  15. Greetings, all of my fellow bladesmiths! I have been given the opportunity to showcase my flagship blade at the Museum of Modern Art. What I have created is an interpretation on the aesthetic of our most beloved dictators and the raw power they have which we so desire. You probably won't get it, but that's okay, you're supposed to feel confused, it's all about the intricate properties of my piece. This piece was made from the finest tamahagane, blessed by Kim Jong Un himself, and forged to the exact dimensions of a piece of rebar. This interpretation of a blade is a criticism on our c
  16. That is going to be so cool! I have a feeling that Niels Provos will make a wolf's tooth ring in the future....
  17. I know I have seen it before, but man is that a cool knife! I especially like the pattern welding and file work. It is sort of what I was going for before I messed up that billet!
  18. Well, it warped a bit. I think I caught it on something during quench. The clay worked well, though! It stayed on even after I had quenched it. Time to normalize, straighten, clay, repeat.
  19. This is just my opinion, I don't really stress historically accurate stuff. I think that the tang needs to have a taper. As for the point, if the blade is sufficiently thick, it's okay to have it acute. I like the overall silhouette. A good taper from break to tang, and break to point. I would like more belly, however. I can't see the taper of the spine, but what I like is for the break to be the thickest part of the knife overall. Essentially, the taper goes in all directions from the break, like it's fanning out. This is my personal take on what I find aesthetically pleasing in a seax, I sti
  20. You have 3 months. Plenty of time to procrastinate!
  21. I saw that last year for KITH, Brian Dougherty made a thread where everyone posted their completed knife pictures. A wonderful idea! I hope that nobody minds if I start this early. I think a couple people have already completed their knives, so it would be great to see them. It might help people gain some inspiration as to what to do with their knife, and it could motivate more people to join in on the fun! I haven't finished mine yet, but I will definitely be posting it when I'm done.
  22. I just thought that I should post some of my favorite pictures that I took:
  23. I'm no wood expert, but if you had some driftwood, couldn't you alter the color with dyes, or maybe stabilize it? I'm not aware of any wood that has the texture of driftwood, with the lines and all. I did see, however, some finishes that will give the wood the same color of driftwood, but that's not what you are after.
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