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Wesley Alberson

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Everything posted by Wesley Alberson

  1. I have found that giving the head a little curve or drifting the eye at an angle really helps with the ergonomics. You don't have to extend your wrist because the handle is already angled. It looks like it will serve you well once you get a handle that fits the eye better.
  2. Ok, well I haven't done anything yet except wire brush the heck out of the bandsaw material, but here is what I plan to make: I want to make a simple twist "sammich mai" bowie knife. I will take alternating layers of bandsaw and thin mild (I will find the mild at Lowes or Home Depot) to make the jacket material, cut it in half, and do opposing twists so the pattern is mirrored on both sides, and forge weld that kobalt file in the middle. The shape that I am going for is debatable and might not be accepted, so I want to make sure it qualifies. I want the thickest part of the knife to be at
  3. Ok, I'll join! I will try pattern welding for the first time, so I'll bow out if I can't get a successful result by the deadline. So we have to post the whole list again and add our name at the bottom? Here ya go!: 1.Gabriel R. Paavola 2. Timothy Artymko 3. Gary Toulomelis 4. Caleb Harris 5. Scott Cruse 6. Tim Tracey 7: JJ Simon 8. Daniel J. Luevano 9. Dan Bourlotos 10. Pieter-Paul Derks 11. Joshua States 12. Kevin Hopkins 13. Robert Dowse 14. Brian Dougherty 15. Jeroen Zuiderwijk 16. Michael Cochran 17. Austin Lyles 18. James Fuller 19. George Ezell 20. Josh Fikentscher 21. Alan Longmire
  4. It's just a type of wood. It is dark brown and has a tight grain. My carpenter friend used it as the top boards for a pergola. I think he got it from some wood depot, I'm just wondering if that would qualify.
  5. Is it too late to join this? I have been blacksmithing for a little less than 2 years so far, but I think that I can make a decent blade. I have some copper that I have already melted down from pipe and wire. I also have a used file that I bought from a Lowes (hopefully Kobalt isn't garbage). Would Ipe wood that I got from a contractor count? I think that he got it from some wood depot. If that's not acceptable, I can always buy some stuff.
  6. With such a history behind it, it breaks my heart to see the last of the family parting with the axe.
  7. That is so cool and useful! It's like having a Viking sword in your pocket. Can we make that a real thing? Like a small dagger that has a fuller and hilt similar to a viking sword, but scaled down to comfortably fit on a belt?
  8. That is going to be great! Did the Egyptians actually make swords like this from steel? I know that they had access to meteorites, but I don't know what they did with them.
  9. I love this sword! And I think blue makes the details "pop" a bit more than the rest. This looks like an ancient Scandinavian craftsman's dream sword!
  10. When I was helping my father pick up a plow that he found on craigslist, I found some old tractor-related steel that the owner had. He sold the two pieces to me for 5 dollars each. There is enough steel to make 6 good-sized hammers. I just finished the first one from the new stock and a piece of 5160 spring. A 2lb 12oz head. It went up to 3lbs exactly when I added the handle, which was an old hickory ax handle. This one packs a bit more of a punch, but I still like the first one I made too.
  11. That looks great! I love the textured copper and the small pieces on the strings.
  12. This is really cool! Is the eye a teardrop shape, or did you forge weld the eye smaller and drift it out? I want to make something like this one day, and it seems like it would be easier to keep the eye a teardrop shape and just carve the handle to fit that shape.
  13. I have a feeling that it will be a good bladesmithing hammer. Now that I found out how simple it is to forge weld faces onto steel like this, I have my eyes on a future 3-4 lb rounding hammer or a larger version of this bladesmithing hammer. Someone gave me a 3 lb trailer hitch ball a while ago that was hacksawed off at the base. I'm thinking it's probably mild, but the shape might be useful for making a crazy spherical ball hammer!
  14. Okay, okay, it's not a blade, but it does have to do with bladesmithing. I recently made my first hammer, which I wanted to be an offset Japanese-style hammer. A special thanks to Mr. Longmire and Mr. Spurgeon for giving me tips on how to do it. This was also my second time forge welding. I got a long chunk of high-quality wrought from a water tower from my friend Robert Timberlake, which I used for the body of the hammer. The face steel was just a thin, quarter inch thick piece of car spring. I cut halfway through the car spring to section off the piece that was going to be the face, and used
  15. Cool! I would make a laminated knife with it, but the bar is too thick. The nasty wrought looks better when etched anyways. I guess I'll make more hammers then! It was kind of funny how I welded on the face. I took a long piece of car spring, forged the end to about the dimensions of the hammer face, then cut about half way through the spring to mark off the part that was becoming the face. Once it was stuck together, I ended up carrying the hammer around by holding onto the long piece of face material. I twisted the rest of the face material off once I felt it was securely welded, then forged
  16. Thank you for the response! It feels really refined because I was able to punch and drift the eye without it splitting on me, so does that mean it is high quality wrought? The 1" by 1" bar was absolutely caked with years of layers of paint (probably lead) which I scraped off before forging.
  17. Hello, I was wondering if there is a problem with making the face of a hammer with only a thin (quarter inch thick) high carbon piece. This question will be answered soon enough when I quench & temper my hammer because I already welded a face on, but it would be good to know beforehand, or at least document it. I forge-welded a quarter inch thick piece of 5160 onto a piece of shear steel found on an old water tower, and normalized it 3 times to bring the grain size down. It welded up solid, and it seems like it would work once heat treated because it has all of that softer steel "sticking"
  18. That is too cool! I have always wondered about the construction of 1:1 naginata. Surely on the bigger naginata, the part of the pole that is split and carved would have to be a separate piece from the rest of the pole. How are the two pieces connected? Dowels? Glue and a metal ring?
  19. That is beautiful! You hit the theme spot-on. My only critique is that I would want the habaki to have a dark patina to bring it together.
  20. Ever since I watched The Revenant, I wanted to make a frontier-looking knife. It didn't need to be historically accurate or anything, just a knife with a frontier feel. Made from a car spring, a copper pipe, a scrap piece of mild, walnut, and red tip. I've been hooked on making knives in the take-apart fashion; it's a little extra work, but it's well worth the functionality. I just realized that there are still a few scratch marks on the bevels, I'll have to grind them out
  21. Triangular or not, that is really cool! I would call it a "castle turret" pattern seax! It really looks like a silhouette of a castle wall on the edge, and the twist pattern above looks like stormy clouds. I hope that I will be able to make a blade like this in the future.
  22. how did you polish the underside of the T? Very carefully?
  23. I have made a few blades from 5160 (not confirmed to be 5160, but it is car spring of some sort), and it is really easy to normalize. I do it 2-3 times. As for the quenchant, I have found that nearly boiling water can work on thicker cross sections of 5160, and a little suspended mud, ash, or coal dust in the water helps a little because it makes the quench a little less aggressive. I have been able to make a kitchen knife with 5160 and a water quench, but the water has to be extremely hot. I just heat up a big block of scrap mild in the forge and dunk it in my quench tank, agitating the rust
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