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Wesley Alberson

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Everything posted by Wesley Alberson

  1. That is looking great! I'm considering doing a tiny bit of carving on my handle. It is a take-apart anyways so I can replace it if I mess up.
  2. I made a bit of progress on the fittings, elongated hexagonal shapes that have been slightly rounded over. I'm glad that I was able to grind the face of the bolster flat and still have a great fit, I'm definitely using this guard making method from now on. I wanted to have a whitesmith style to the blade and fittings with file texture. I love the look of some of the historical artifacts that Peter Ross has in his shop, and I wanted to make something that looks like it. It is crisp in shape, yet the file texture is still there, and it has been etched to artificially age the steel. I will heat up the fittings to darken them with oxides, then brighten the high spots.
  3. Discord sounds fun, it's free to set up, right?
  4. Thanks! I really like the Dwemer art style. In lore the race had mysteriously disappeared, but there is still plenty of concept art. They are kind of steampunk, but still refined because the Dwemer were mixing science and magic.
  5. I have started on this knife, but I might still make the knife I had already planned on before. I forged out a seax blade for a Dwemer-inspired knife and made some fittings. The dwemer art style has a lot of square shapes, brass, and rivets. I also tried out a guard making technique that looks very promising. 3 holes were drilled, the webbing was cut away with a cold chisel, then a punch was driven all the way through. The punch is then inserted 80% of the way and then hammered on the sides, focusing the blows towards the face of the guard. This closes up the face of the guard while leaving the rest oversized to the tang. This allows the guard to be fitted more easily because there is less material to deform when fitting. With iron or copper I could probably punch the hole, and because the bolster on the anvil side gets wider from the punching, it is the perfect side to hammer that excess back in.
  6. I think we should extend the deadline. I just forged the blade for mine today. What should we do? End of next month?
  7. I have some friction folders that I'm selling on Etsy, all of the matte black powder coat handled ones are gone, so all that is left are the bronze powder coat and the bare aluminum. Here is the link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/619110173/aluminum-handle-friction-folder-edc-hand?ref=shop_home_active_1 These are inspired by the Japanese higonokami design with the folded handle. I also emulated the cut point look, but I found that making the blade a broken back seax-like shape is visually pleasing, rather than keeping the blade about the same width all the way down. The aluminum handles are cut from a sheet, annealed, textured, bent, and formed with a wooden mallet on a stump to preserve the texture. The aluminum stock is fairly thick, so it fills your hand much like regular linerlock blades and doesn't take up too much pocket space. $115 for bare aluminum $125 for powder coat 1095 blade aluminum handle steel pivot 301 stainless pocket clip nylon washers Some pictures: These were really fun to make, it was a learning process to shape the blades and handles. This one reminds me of some sort of Spanish knife I use different hammers and texturing tools to create all kinds of unique patterns in the aluminum A texture that is just my touchmark repeating This texture looks a lot like tree bark. It would lose a lot of detail if I powder coated it This is a bronze powder coat with a clear layer on top. Apparently the bronze flakes oxidize over time if it is just left without a clear coat. A freaky caterpillar-looking texture. Made with a rusty hammer eye punch There is something about this knife in particular that makes it feel good, like a full size fighter that fits into your pocket
  8. That hilt is beautiful! The carvings are large and dramatic, a legendary looking sword.
  9. I second the big teeth, that is a beautiful pattern!
  10. Thanks Zeb! I always like a little bit of forge finish on the spine, the tiny pits and details left behind from forging give the blade a totally random and unique texture. Smooth forge texture looks like smooth black leather to me.
  11. I forged a pretty thin blade out of some 1095 a while back, and in the past couple of weeks I have made some good progress on it. The blade has a rhombic cross section like a puukko, but it is long enough to be considered a short wakizashi length. The blade had a curve before the quench, but it got straightened out from quenching in oil. I made the fittings simple, a wrought iron bolster, habaki, and a groovy handle that I got from AK Designs. The tapered peg in the handle is made from some micarta rod. I am also making a scabbard out of some leftover bamboo flooring. I'll have to apply a grey stain to match the scabbard to the handle, the bamboo is too yellow. I'm also making some aluminum handle friction folders in preparation for Blade Show. Working aluminum is finicky, but as long as you have some bar soap, it's easy to anneal the stuff in a coal forge. The pocket clips are made from cold-worked stainless. It is some nice and springy material, and can be bent and drilled easily.
  12. I love the first puukko picture, that little radius on the end of the handle is iconic. I think that the modern puukko look is possibly due to modern finishing standards/technology. I think that there is a lot less sheet metal/soldering work on modern knives, too. I love the puukkos you make, especially the maasepän ones. Do all maasepän puukkos have the 2 wedges driven in the front of then handle?
  13. I am slowly gearing up for blade show, making some wedge tenon knives, as well as some folders and knives with regular pins. I'm getting a bit better with my leather work. I am making the sheaths so they can be worn on either side horizontally or vertically.
  14. That dagger looks robust! I like how it is like a mini-sword, with all the same components and look of a full-length sword.
  15. I love that meteorite material! The pattern is wonderful on the blade and the bolsters.
  16. Cool! That must be pretty hard to figure out. I think that a professional taffy/hard candy maker would be really good at creating damascus patterns. Also, why don't you sketch a blade, draw a pattern on the blade, and then make a damascus pattern for that instead? You could go for a more specific look for a blade that way.
  17. I have made broaches that cut the width of the tang in the handle hole, but it is frustrating when I have to cut the thickness. I end up using the same broach at an angle to expand the side walls, and it isn't very neat. Is it possible to make broaches that can cut the thickness of the tang? It would have to be thin, so it would be hard to make the teeth as aggressive as a broach. I'm thinking that this file making method might work.
  18. I use astro-cut B, a water soluble oil that you mix up. It is great for cooling off knives because you can barely wipe it dry and it won't rust.
  19. I like the shape of that knife, it reminds me of a gaucho knife. What tool do you use for checkering?
  20. I wish I could go, however I'm going to the one in Atlanta. Share some pictures while you are there!
  21. That is a great build! I like how the form was modified to fit the function, and it looks really cool, too! What should the sheath be made of? Could leather survive the kind of temperatures that firefighters are normally exposed to?
  22. One problem I have with my leather work is that I can"t seem to get the edges of the leather to smooth out. The welt and the 2 edges seem to always be uneven after I burnish.
  23. I heard that either brake fluid or brake lubricant is something to stay away from, too. When heated it turns into some toxic fumes that can kill you with a very small amount.
  24. I got my respirator a few days ago, I'm so glad I got it. I have heard that some woods are neurotoxins in dust form.
  25. In this video around the 4:06 mark, you can see the grinder posture with the smaller wheel, which is a lot like a 2x72 grinder, except sitting down. Now, he is using his arms to move the work, rather than locking his arms and using his body, so it isn't as stable as swaying in front of a 2x72. However, at the 6:12 mark with the grinder pulling the work away from you, your arms are being pulled and it creates some stability because your arms can't be pulled out any further. I used to use a harbor freight belt sander to grind my knives, and I had it in a similar setup where my arms were almost fully extended, and it was a pretty comfortable position, and I felt like I had control on the work. It seems like sit down grinders are a matter of compromise between an uncomfortable leaning posture and intense pressure, and a comfortable upright posture and weak pressure. I would want a comfortable posture over a back-breaking posture. 36 grit is really fast even with low pressure.
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