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Wesley Alberson

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Posts posted by Wesley Alberson

  1. I have had this idea for a locking friction folder for a while. I'm not sure if it is an original design, but I haven't seen this anywhere else.

    This knife has a very thin but wide tang which has been spring tempered. This way, the tang is easily moved by pushing it to the side, but it is still strong when exposed to rotational force. The end of the tang has a ramp and a stop so the handle pushes the tang to the side when opening, and both pieces keep it from rotating in either direction.

    This is only a prototype, so I would probably make the tang shorter next time, and because it would be shorter, it would have to be wider and thinner to stay structural.

    The design was originally inspired by a folding sword from a star trek movie. I figured that this design could be repeatable, so you could possibly have a folding knife with a blade that is 2 or 3 times the length of the handle. The blade would look like it is zig-zagging, but you could just grind a diagonal bevel for one continuous edge.





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  2. I think I saw somewhere that someone used a very small radius contact wheel on their belt grinder. It seems that a knapped finish is often ground in. I would imagine that it could be done by forging with small radius top and bottom dies if you want the forge scale to stay on.

  3. It is muscle memory, but there are 2 methods I have tried. I forged a puukko-ish knife, and I wanted a bevel along the spine so I could leave it as a forge-finish area. I started by forging it like a knife that would have a triangular cross section. When forging a triangular cross section, it is important to hammer at an angle, but it's not as important to hold it at an angle because the side on the anvil is going to be flat anyways. All you have to do is switch sides each heat. When I established the bevel along the spine, it became more important to hold the blade at an angle so the line that forms there is even on both sides. When you do bevels and hold the blade at an angle, a dagger for instance, you hammer at an angle that you think is right, check where the bevel is on each side, and if the bevels are not right you correct the angles on the next heat. Once you have hammered the bevels out all the way, it is really difficult to fix. The only fix I can think of for a dagger with a flat side and a peaked side is to open up a vise so you can hammer down the peak in the middle while propping up the edges. Here is a video of me forging a blade: 


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  4. 47 minutes ago, Chris C-S said:

    Yeah my head was looking at it rotated c-clockwise so the R is on the angle and the F is Nearly right way up. Get some scrap and play around with it. 

    Actually I was thinking of getting it laser engraved at Buckeye Engraving or a company like it. I want it to be about 3/8", and I don't have that kind of precision tooling. Also, the design looks a bit like the triforce symbol from a game called Legend of Zelda, but it's distinguishable from that.

  5. 49 minutes ago, Chris C-S said:

    Will you apply this with Apex up or down? 

    Either I will orient it as you see in the picture onto the side of the knife, or I will rotate it clockwise so the base of the triangle is parallel to the edge of the blade. It is easier to read as is, but it would look like a cool minimalist shape if rotated counter clockwise.

    • Like 1
  6. I rubbed some renaissance wax on it. Is that enough? I don't use bone too often so I don't know much about sealing and care. I can put a coat of lacquer over the whole handle to make it super water proof. It will look kind of shiny, but in a high moisture environment like a kitchen, it might need it.

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