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Wesley Alberson

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Everything posted by Wesley Alberson

  1. I rubbed some renaissance wax on it. Is that enough? I don't use bone too often so I don't know much about sealing and care. I can put a coat of lacquer over the whole handle to make it super water proof. It will look kind of shiny, but in a high moisture environment like a kitchen, it might need it.
  2. The commercial for the FiF episode that my mentor and I are on is up! The episode will air on July 11. My mentor is Robert Timberlake, a retired machinist and blacksmith/bladesmith. Here are a couple shots of the commercial, Robert and I are in the purple shirts, seems like we were the only ones who coordinated... In order it is: Jesse, Zack Lewis, Robert, me, Frank, Nehemiah, Joe Szilaski, and his apprentice (I feel bad that I forgot his name!). Here is a better look at Robert standing at the left.
  3. Beautiful! I love your designs, they are timeless.
  4. Very clean forging! One of my friends made a fire steel out of titanium, it gave off some beautiful white sparks.
  5. Check out the Forged in Fire episode that my mentor and I are on, it airs July 11!

  6. I have been thinking of different wedged tenon designs, and I have been thinking about making it more simple. I'm wondering what would happen if I somehow carved a groove into a wooden handle, drilled & filed a hole in the end of the tang, and then used a bamboo wedge to secure it all, like Japanese swords and knives. Driving in the wedge would compress the wedge and the handle, and the only issue I can think of would be if the tang is too thin at the end, which puts all of that pressure on only one little point. With my design, there are 3 points of contact, and I can always beef up
  7. Done! The handle is bone and redbud. It slices very well, I live on a farm and I used it on a ripe tomato. It's 6.5 inches, but I'm sure this petty knife can handle most of what you throw at it!
  8. Nice work! What is that red wood on the first one? Is it really as red as it is in the pictures?
  9. That auto hamon is cool! I think the overall look would benefit from a more square handle to match the square shape of the blade, maybe a Japanese-style octagonal or teardrop-shape handle. Also, I got to see a demonstration of Jim Cooper's setup at Blade, and one thing that really enhances a knife photo is if the tip is not touching the surface it is on. In fact, it is better to have the blade raised off of the surface completely. He does this by buying putty that you can find at any hardware store, and putting it under the blade and handle so that it raises the knife up and is hidden under th
  10. I need more time for mine, I need to borrow my mentor's grinder!
  11. It was really cool to hold some of your blades! You have developed a unique style, everything was really solid and comfortable, make more! Oh, and here is my favorite photo that I took at blade:
  12. That is looking really good! Even though mechanical hammers are more efficient, why do people still prefer air hammers? is it because your foot determines the stopping point of the hammer, rather than the amount of force that the hammer exerts?
  13. It looks like you are making good progress! Do you need a large air compressor to run this, or does it have an internal piston? There is a guy near me that has an old nazel hammer that he isn't using, and it's just sitting outside. I have been looking around for a smaller power hammer like a little giant, but it might just be a case of go big or go home.
  14. I wanted to get my stuff on Etsy, I thought I should post my current stock here, too. Aluminum Handle Friction Folder: $120 https://www.etsy.com/listing/537731309/aluminum-handle-friction-folder-knife?ref=listing-shop-header-2 This folder is made with a one-piece hammer textured aluminum handle and large steel washers on either side of the pivot. The blade shape is based off of a higonokami, a popular Japanese friction folder.Specifications:Blade Steel: File steel, probably 1095 or a similar alloy.Handle: Aluminum with steel pivot and washers, as well as brass washers
  15. What Karim said. The blade warped quite a lot from the quench, but after tempering it I was able to hammer it straight. Monosteel blades resist straightening because they are still springy. The same thing happens with laminated blades, but the mild takes a set and pulls on the carbon steel. The carbon steel isn't truly straight, I think it would snap right back if the mild was taken away somehow. The blade is in a state of stress from this, but it won't break it. I recall watching a video about Japanese smiths "aging" their blades by keeping them in cubbies for a few months (years?) after stra
  16. I made some progress on the blade. It is my first time laminating steel like this. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be using my charcoal forge. It is a piece of 5160 on one side and mild steel on the other. It is a lamination very similar to chisel ground kitchen knives, but I made this one symmetrically ground. The heel is on the short side, but hopefully I can angle up the handle a bit so it's not a knuckle breaker!
  17. It is dried and crushed up maple leaf. I used lacquer to build up layers of it, and it's a nice texture. It looks like purple avocado skin!
  18. That is a beautiful pattern! Is that a copper nail in the butt plate?
  19. I really like the inwards curved spacer and guard! I think the peened tang would look much cleaner if you filed a step into the tang so the very end of the tang is a smaller round/square shape. Then you can take a piece of steel or copper, drill a hole about the size of the end of the tang, then peen over the tang on top of that. I think that would reduce the chance of work hardening cracks.
  20. Thanks! I would love to see someone else try it, it's such a simple design, Dave Friesen got me hooked on the whole take-apart idea. I'm sure that a knife with this construction could be finely finished, the only problem is that when taking it apart/ putting it together, you are getting a hammer near the end of the handle. Even if you use a brass/copper hammer, I think that it could still mar a highly polished pommel fitting. Perhaps a leather-lined vise could safely press the pin in without damaging the fittings. 11.5" edge, 16.25" total length from tip to the end of the tang.
  21. That is a really cool pattern! The deep holes in the fittings remind me of those holes in a python's face.
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