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Casey Cardwell

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  1. I am making this knife as a Christmas gift for my sister. It is done except for the strands of leather cord dangling from the bottom of the frog area. What would you do with them? Cut them off at the knot? Weave them together and attach a bead? Attach two beads, one to each strand? Something else? If you like the bead idea, do you any pictures? Thanks everyone!
  2. I found this picture floating around Google, and have decided to make one, but I haven't got the faintest idea what to call it, or where it came from. I can't find the original source for the image...it just links me to pinterest. Is anyone familiar with these?
  3. Thanks for the tips. It's 13" overall. I was trying to think if I would ever be carrying it without a backpack, but I suppose if the sheath can do double duty as a lumbar carry or shoulder strap carry it shouldn't matter.
  4. I'm looking for advice on how to carry this knife, and consequently what kind of sheath I should make. The knife is about 13" long. I was thinking about a lumbar carry, but I worry about difficulty with re-sheathing. I don't want a vertical carry because I don't want the knife to draw a lot of attention. Any pictures, ideas, or advice would be appreciated.
  5. Feel free to delete if too off topic... Do flint and steel strikers work better if heat treated to create large grain structure? Or am I still wanting fine grain? Are there other metallurgical factoids that improve the performance of a striker? Thanks to all!
  6. Unfortunately I'm using an old electric kiln for my heart treating. It works great for holding temperatures, but I can't see the steel while it's inside to what for the phase shift. Also, the analog thermometer isn't very accurate. I've compared when a piece of iron becomes non-magnetic to the temperature indicated by the thermometer, and used the difference to adjust for the actual temperature inside the kiln, but it's still an estimation. Also, am I wrong in thinking that if I increased grain size while forging, it would be corrected through normalization?
  7. Thank you. Do you think cycling at the higher temperatures is what gave me the larger grain, or the quench temperature?
  8. I'm just starting to learn my metallurgy, so I was hoping you could help me understand if this grain is good, bad, or otherwise. This is 1084 run through normalizing cycles of 1700, 1600, and 1550 (cooled in still air to about 200F between), then quenched after a brief hold at 1500. This piece was a cut-off from a kukri forged and hardened from the same stock. I think the dark spots at the top are from oil but I'm not certain.
  9. Thanks Grant, that's exactly the type of feedback I was hoping for.
  10. Jake, that's great info! Thanks for taking the time.
  11. Thanks everyone. I finished the knife but missed the mark on the handle and have a thread started in Design and Critique to that effect. I made a right handed one today and increased the size/proportion of the groove, but pretty much left everything else the same. Jake, thanks for all the info. I'll start watching those videos.
  12. For what it's worth, here's a quick photoshopped version of how long I think I should have made the handle.
  13. This is my first attempt at a yakut. I feel like I really missed the mark on the handle. The few pictures I've seen of yakuts seem to have pretty straight forward handles, but there are subtleties that I have not figured out. As soon as I put it together I realized the handle was proportionally too short, but there's more to it than that. Any advice would be appreciated.
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