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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Florian F Fortner

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Florian F Fortner last won the day on March 26

Florian F Fortner had the most liked content!

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About Florian F Fortner

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    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Historical Fencing, Bibliography, Typography, Blade and Hiltmaking obviously.

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  1. Do you have any possibility to heat it in vertical position? I can really recommend this for long blades, I did 6 foot blades without warping in my vertical kiln.
  2. Nice to see that others also make rapiers! I suppose this one is not designed for fencing?
  3. Nice work! A very interesting Nagel shape, where is the original from? It's good to see more longer blades on this forum...
  4. A handy thing to test hilt bar placement and bends is to use electric cable with solid wire core. This is a good diameter, bends easily and stays in shape well for testing hand clearance and looks. I probably need to get a forge and proper anvil soon. It took me 2 hours to bend this 13mm round rod into a rough shape... Now back to grinding and filing...
  5. Just found this by accident... The lindsay sharpening templates are the best investment one can make when starting engraving/chiseling (even when not using the airgraver, which I don't). Engraver bits sharpened with them have a perfect geometry and stay sharp much longer than freehand ones, especially in carbon and spring steel. Saves hours of re-sharpening! I can recommend the original universal 116° degree one and the MRTHE set for making a sharp V-point, flat graver and stippling points. Together with a 90° V-point this is all I need for engraving sword blades and hilts.
  6. Too many fencing events, too little time for sword making... After welding the parts together with the ricasso-block and some fiddling around I could do a first test fit of the hilt on the blade, which is a critical thing because the pommel will not be peened in place but detachable so I can put the blade on its own in a tube for travelling. No wobbling allowed
  7. Wow, clean knives! I really LOVE the first one!
  8. Thanks guys! So I'll keep on posting then!! Chris, this is the first hilt where I write down every hour spent working in detail (as a reference for future projects, we all know the "I think it's a week's work... and then it takes a month ). 35 hours so far. I just tacked the first pieces together. It's 90% filing (all by hand) and 10% chiseling. My estimate for the whole hilt is 100 hours, so I am curious how far I'll be from that number.
  9. I hope it doesn't get boring, yet the steel only reveals the final forms slowly. Here are some more pics: Bent the end of the knuckle guard Rough shaping An idea of the shape The blue contrast color is a huge help to see the depth of the relief, and the file marks of course
  10. This is unbelievably good! I think you are on a par with the old masters in everything you do. Just impressive and inspirational! I have an indiscreet question: How many hours do you spend on making a dagger, knife and scabbard like this?
  11. Wow! Very creative idea, I like this very much!
  12. Al, the stock material was 2000x100x9mm, I had this blade, two rapier blades and two daggers waterjet cut from it. It was quite efficient this way with little material remaining. The rest can always be used for springs (will need some soon for a wheel lock anyway) Collin, look here: Jonas, consistent blackening is like a secret to many but actually easy. Just heat the parts to about 500-600°C (a grey color, temp depends on the steel composition) let them cool slowly and when they are below 200°C (or lower, I had success with room temp. as well) rub them with a rag dipped in linseed oil. The steel will turn to a nice black color, I don't have an explanation for what goes on there, but it works like a charm. This can also be repeated when the black comes off from sparring. Another, historically applied method, is rubbing the steel with a linseed oil soaked cloth at constant higher temperatures, for example a breastplate with the rearside in the fire, rubbing the front. You build up layers of not properly-burnt oil that looks a bit like tarmac. This has been used on cheaper armour and weapons as a good rust protection.
  13. Lukas, The blade is not sharp as it is intended for sparring. I might make one more with a sharp blade for test cutting in the future. Al, the lugs are not welded on, it's made from one piece of steel. I also do not weld on the tangs or the tang threads. It is much better to cut it long enough and thread the tang directly.
  14. This is a fine exercise in patience . The pas d'ane rings are roughly finished, now I am filing away at the crossguard. It is a very dynamic shape, because it is bent, tilted 30° and twisted around the axis by about 40°. Bending the carbon steel rods did work fine cold, to my surprise, even though the material is a 14mm diameter.
  15. I forgot to take pictures of the finished sword, here they are! It handles nicely and, like the original, the blade bends a little bit under its own weight yet when you swing it it stabilizes itself perfectly.