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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Florian F Fortner

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Florian F Fortner last won the day on July 20

Florian F Fortner had the most liked content!

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About Florian F Fortner

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    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Historical Fencing, Bibliography, Typography, Blade and Hiltmaking obviously.

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  1. Alan, I'll heed your warning! Thanks! Do you think filling the bucket under the cyclone with water will do it? The cyclone filters out most of the dust down to 2 micron, so this will be caught in the bucket. Only floating dust of smaller size will go out to the filter. Brian, the specs are: 2500m^3/h, 2HP, 12" fan wheel. Got it new for around $300. As soon as it's finished I'll tell you if it is strong enough
  2. The beast is alive (and taller than expected)! We are just waiting for the filter mats, then It will be ready for the belt grinder. It sucks up shovels of sawdust, filings, shavings and doesn't spit anything out the other end...
  3. Yes, the y-axis is the cross section area in mm^2, the x-axis is the standardized distance from the hilt (sorry for the german labels, I took those directly out of a paper). A curve of the distal taper would look similar but will be incomplete information to judge the blade performance, only the cross section says it all. If you want I could give you the distal and width taper curves as well... I just wanted to get across that none of all those curves will be linear and grinding a good blade will be more work
  4. Peter is spot on with his analysis! In my research with original blades, which ranges from 15th to 18th century european blades, a constant bevel angle is a rare thing. To get good handling in fencing, the cross section curve will be necessarily nonlinear, this implies a constantly changing bevel angle along the blade. This applies to all swords - two-handers, sideswords, rapiers, smallswords and others that are intended for proper fencing as described in the various treatises! (Meat cleavers like Pallasches and some cavalry sabers are exempt from this, there the momentum in swinging cuts is the focus of design) Usually the cross section curve has a double S-shape. The cross section at the hilt is big and drops significantly within the first 1/5th of the blade, then stays level for some time before dropping again before about a 1/3rd from the tip, then tapering out towards the point (see picture, a very nice Juan Martinez rapier blade from around 1600) With a linear taper, handling will always be less than optimal and many people try to correct things through the weight of the pommel which makes matters worse. A good blade will handle well without tiring the arm too much if you try it on its own without hilt, grip and pommel. If it doesn't, it never will. If you close your eyes, the subjectively felt weight will be in the 1/3rd closest to the hilt. Here are some cross section diagrams of original blades: Various one handed swords Some big two-handers:
  5. Thanks for the praise guys! Today I started moving the metal with a stipling chisel. It makes the difference between "clean cut" and "organic look". I found this technique online, by a master engraver called Carl Bleile - this project is a thourough learning experience After that, one final step of smoothing the surfaces should get it done.
  6. Now I have time to start building the dust collection system and this turns into a WIP... Here is the Cyclone body, handbuilt (what a stupid time-consuming job). Next step is the inlet and a cart to mount the dustbin, cyclone and blower. I am really curious how this will work!!
  7. Here are the first rounds of chiseling the pommel. To begin with, I draw the outlines with permanent marker, then remove the background in two rounds (appr. 1mm deep). The I even out the background with a ballpoint chisel (also to improve contrast for the further work). Actually this is quite fast, thought it will take much longer - thanks to pneumatic engravers
  8. Impressive! I love the slim tapered blade a lot. Would you mind to tell the final data (POB, weight, measurements)?
  9. Some time has passed, but now it's time to get the pommel done. Original pommels were riveted to the tang. However, as I need to disassemble the sword regularly for travelling, I use a thread on the tang and a recessed cap in the shape of the pommel end (see pictures). The pommel has a square hole matching the tang to keep it from rotating. As most originals, this pommel is not solid to keep a good size and the proper weight for a good balance. Now it's hours and hours of carving and chiseling...
  10. saber

    Curved double fullers - CRAZY! Doing them before the bend is clever. The finish is impeccable, love it!
  11. Some time ago I started to make a hanger and scabbard for my latest rapier project. I usually do not like this work, so maybe a WIP here keeps me going Starting with the hanger metal parts, I cut them out of steel, twist the eyes and finish with files. Then the leather is cut to shape and decorated with simple lines impressed into the wet leather. The metal fittings are attached to the leather with brass rivets. The difference between the original period hanger fittings and most modern ones is, that the leather is riveted sandwiched between two layers of steel, not simply under the fitting. For the measurements of the individual parts of the hanger and the angle and position of where to place the sword in relation to the body is described in detail in Gerard Thibault's monumental fencing treatise from 1630. In parallel I also started the scabbard, which is even more annoying to make than the hanger. It is a standard sandwich construction of thin strips of wood, linen and wood glue. After curing of the glue it is a durable but still a bit flexible construction which is protected from breaking or bending by the sword inside it . The strips on top of the scabbard cover the sides of the ricasso. The next step is finishing up und adding a thin leather cover.
  12. Beautiful sword! How did you do the transition from the painting to the blade measurements, cross section progression in particular? Just eyeballing or is it based on an existing sword profile? The narrow shape reminds me of a sword I measured some time ago, which is 35mm wide at the base with an overall weight of below 1kg and a fierce bodkin point:
  13. Wow, this is impressive for a first sword!! Please continue! I know getting into museums can be tough without connections, so I have put some detailed sword measurements online (mixed: one-handers, two-handers, rapiers, smallswords). Feel free to check it out at: www.rapier.at and another one from the Zeughaus in Graz which I cannot publish online due to legal reasons but I will send you a PM with the link (also to everyone else who is interested, they have some of the very best two-handed swords you'll ever get to see).
  14. Thanks for your replies! Good hint that hot sparks are not magnetic, I did never think about that!! After some online research, I think I will go the oversized cyclone-blower route. I have already calculated the parts according to Bill Pentz' designs. Parts are cheap and the thin sheet metal is easy to work with. Some adjustments are needed because the designs are for wood dust which is less hot. I will hook this up with 6" tubing to the rear of the grinder housing and just suck all the air with out of it. Let's see how it turns out... After grinding this device can also be used as a general air cleaner (with proper filters after the blower of course)
  15. I always wondered how to get a belt grinder "living room ready". The more power the machine has, the more metal dust it blows out into the room. Lucky are those who have a dedicated workshop where a thick layer of steel dust won't matter, but some like me who do all their work at their usual workplace (a bikeshop in my case). There it will stick to everything magnetic (like cellphone speakers) and the whole room is covered in a thin black layer of steel dust. So I thought about ways to catch and reduce dust pollution. Under the grinder I place a huge barrel that catches 90% of the rough particles that are shot downwards (as I only grind up to 60 grit the particles are not to fine) My first modification was an aluminium box around the whole thing, with a side-door for belt-change access (see pictures, though not yet finished). This catches most of the dust that will fly off the belt to all sides. Now only the platen area is exposed, but there are still sparks flying off to the sides and the fine dust that floats in the air can't be seen anyway. So I thought about placing strong electric magnets close to the belt to catch the dust. What do you think about this idea? Might it work or is it bullshit? How much of the dust is steel and how much particles from the belt itself? I also thought about a fan system, but it needs to be quite powerful (could be done cheaply with used gastro/restaurant-ventilation parts). Then everything has to be super airtight and the fan needs a fine particle filter, otherwise it will just help to blow the dust into every corner... That's why I also don't vacumm clean, just use a broom and wet mop Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!