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Florian F Fortner

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Florian F Fortner last won the day on July 20

Florian F Fortner had the most liked content!

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About Florian F Fortner

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  • Location
    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Historical Fencing, Bibliography, Typography, Blade and Hiltmaking obviously.

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  1. Beautiful sword! How did you do the transition from the painting to the blade measurements, cross section progression in particular? Just eyeballing or is it based on an existing sword profile? The narrow shape reminds me of a sword I measured some time ago, which is 35mm wide at the base with an overall weight of below 1kg and a fierce bodkin point:
  2. Wow, this is impressive for a first sword!! Please continue! I know getting into museums can be tough without connections, so I have put some detailed sword measurements online (mixed: one-handers, two-handers, rapiers, smallswords). Feel free to check it out at: www.rapier.at and another one from the Zeughaus in Graz which I cannot publish online due to legal reasons but I will send you a PM with the link (also to everyone else who is interested, they have some of the very best two-handed swords you'll ever get to see).
  3. Thanks for your replies! Good hint that hot sparks are not magnetic, I did never think about that!! After some online research, I think I will go the oversized cyclone-blower route. I have already calculated the parts according to Bill Pentz' designs. Parts are cheap and the thin sheet metal is easy to work with. Some adjustments are needed because the designs are for wood dust which is less hot. I will hook this up with 6" tubing to the rear of the grinder housing and just suck all the air with out of it. Let's see how it turns out... After grinding this device can also be used as a general air cleaner (with proper filters after the blower of course)
  4. I always wondered how to get a belt grinder "living room ready". The more power the machine has, the more metal dust it blows out into the room. Lucky are those who have a dedicated workshop where a thick layer of steel dust won't matter, but some like me who do all their work at their usual workplace (a bikeshop in my case). There it will stick to everything magnetic (like cellphone speakers) and the whole room is covered in a thin black layer of steel dust. So I thought about ways to catch and reduce dust pollution. Under the grinder I place a huge barrel that catches 90% of the rough particles that are shot downwards (as I only grind up to 60 grit the particles are not to fine) My first modification was an aluminium box around the whole thing, with a side-door for belt-change access (see pictures, though not yet finished). This catches most of the dust that will fly off the belt to all sides. Now only the platen area is exposed, but there are still sparks flying off to the sides and the fine dust that floats in the air can't be seen anyway. So I thought about placing strong electric magnets close to the belt to catch the dust. What do you think about this idea? Might it work or is it bullshit? How much of the dust is steel and how much particles from the belt itself? I also thought about a fan system, but it needs to be quite powerful (could be done cheaply with used gastro/restaurant-ventilation parts). Then everything has to be super airtight and the fan needs a fine particle filter, otherwise it will just help to blow the dust into every corner... That's why I also don't vacumm clean, just use a broom and wet mop Any other ideas are greatly appreciated!
  5. Very original knife! I am curious, how did you do the nice evenly spaced teeth in the brass spacers?
  6. Cool to see a katana WIP! I am especially looking forward to the heat treating! It is real magic to me how to get a curved blade to quench and stay in the curvature intended (keeping blades straight is tough enough ).
  7. Finally I can call this finished. 40 hours in total, sanded to 600grit (more than enough for sparring abuse ). Overall length is 120cm, blade length is 105cm and the finished weight is 620g. Like a good swordblade should be - it handles nicely without a hilt and a pommel (if it doesn't, it's usually a hopeless case...) The rest of the weapon I will document in the hilt WIP. Thanks for watching!
  8. Cool design! The smiths's marks on swords from the 15th-17th century are about 8-10mm in size. I agree with Brian, if you leave the circle it will likely not impress fully and look incomplete, but then even in the old days it was like that. Some of the period marks are inverted, that would solve the circle problem but gives more surface area, so you need a harder blow to get it in properly. In Germany there is a company that makes this size for about 100-120 Euro, which equals about 140$, so the prices are similar in global comparison I am still punching and chiseling my mark bit by bit, however it's on the tang so nobody will usually see it.
  9. Yay! The hilt is finally finished. What pleases me the most is that my guess of 100 hours of work was quite accurate at 98 hours spent. At the weekend the blade gets heat treated and next week I'll start on the pommel (more carving and chiseling, pheew)
  10. This knife exudes japanese style and culture! Maybe the process needed to be like that to manifest as this beautiful piece in the end...
  11. Thanks a lot for all your praise! @Alan. Yes, I will blacken it and then just slightly polish the surface to give a nice contrast just like the original I showed at the start of the thread. @T Swenson. Haha, it seems nobody likes to do turks head knots (this might be a good business idea - custom turks head knots ). Yet they are essential for the final look. So I will need to make them eventually. Maybe you know about the cheating method as posted on myarmoury.com some time ago, which is also historically accurate and found on some period swords (i hope it's ok to post these pics here, the post was made by E.B. Erickson): To achieve the correct diameter, you need to add about two times the wire diameter to the starting loop to end up with a correct sized knot. For the wire the most accurate look is achieved by twisting four strands of 0.3-0.35mm wire tightly, so it appears like a tiny rope. This is also quite pleasant to work with. Yet one still needs lot of practice to get good results. Long way to go...
  12. I love it when it all comes together and one can see that all the hours of work finally pay off... I cut two pieces of wood for the handle (some kind of akazia, don't know exactly, I got it from a friend who is a wood specialist). This wood doesn't expand much when it gets wet, this is crucial, otherwise it will stretch the wire wrap and when it dries again it shrinks and the wire comes loose. With a saw and wood chisels I cut out the shape of the tang and then glued both halves together with fish glue. While this dried, I made tests for the wirewrap. This time I went for three strands all made of 0.5mm annealed steel wire, two of them twisted in opposite directions to give the "braided" look and one folded twice and twisted as tight as possible. This is done best with one end in an vise and the loop in the hand drill which must be under constant pull. With a saw I make small grooves with an offset in the narrower end and hammer the strands in. Before I start winding, I secure them with epoxy (I usually don't use non-period materials, but here I trust the epoxy, because the sword will be often disassembled and assembled when travelling). Same with the other end after wrapping the handle. Now I put all the parts together and fine tune the pommel weight for proper POB, pivot points and smooth handling.
  13. I'd choose the third one (actually love it!), because the initials are clear to see and the sallet is simplified. If this is stamped into steel, the first two versions wouldn't come out in that detail. The only thing that bothers me is the font, which one did you use here? The serifs don't look right (going into detail would take some writing, but for example the top left serif of the L is to long and doesn't match the lower one). Try a good Garamond (EB Garamond is free or Garamond Premier Pro), these are similar but much better balanced and are also period
  14. Sorry for the late reply, probably I should turn on "auto notification" No, The surface is flat. You have to hold the tool at an angle depending on the curvature of the fuller. The wider the fuller, the easier this is. The originals also show this effect. On the sides of the fuller, the impression is much deeper than in the center. Like here: This is why it's much easier to split the letters up into parts and stamp them separately. Less area equals deeper impression.
  15. Cool! Sounds good. I'll get it then!!