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Florian F Fortner

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Florian F Fortner last won the day on June 1

Florian F Fortner had the most liked content!

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    www.rapier.at

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    Male
  • Location
    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Historical Fencing, Bibliography, Typography, Swordmaking, Sewing.

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  1. Thanks for the encouragement! Gazz, what you describe has been also done in the past. They inlaid a silver chain into the steel guard, which would look nice, but not hold up well to abuse and is well beyond my skills! James, of course 3D printing a wax model and then casting would be the easier option by far. Yet, I don't have access to any of this and think it would be prohibitively expensive for parts of this size. Milling is not an option because of the organic and sweeping curves of most of the guard parts. The process I settled on for the moment is as follows: * Drill the lateral holes first * File (on the outside curve) and grind with a rotary tool (on the inside curve) the two steps on the edge that make the chain shape * File the vertical chain divisions and smooth everything * Drill the vertical holes * Finish with chiseling the details The next challenge is getting a proper period engraving pattern onto those narrow strips... Stay tuned!
  2. Time for another project. The blade is a simple hexagonal/diamond rapier blade and almost finished: The hilt, however, is going to be one of the most time-consuming and elaborate designs that can be found on a sword like this. There have been only few cutlers who did this design, mostly in France and northern Italy. I am going for a hybrid between these two: The chains on the sides of the bars are the most intimitating part. Here are some pieces to test the process of making them (with a rough finish and the cutouts for the "scrolled face" begun): How would you go about making this? Just curious if there is a more efficient way, especially for the inside of a curve!!
  3. Finally finished! This project was a great learning experience - as usual. The spiralised sword handles were a challenge. Especially getting the leather into the recesses to expose the flutes in the wood. Another funny thing is the behaviour of different types of steel while blackening. Carbon and mild steel turn into a nice greyish black, whereas spring steel that i used for the crossbar plates (containing silicon) turns into a reddish hue. Not a big issue, but a thing to rememeber for next time!
  4. Mike, the crossbar is made up of four pieces, the qillons and a plate over the ricasso on either side. This resulsts in a perefect rectangular slot for the tang that will fit the blade snugly. Making the whole crossbar out of one piece and the piercing and filing the slot would be the original method when forging.
  5. Next update, the blades are almost finished, the hilts waiting for blackening. The grip cores are ready for the leather cover...
  6. Starting with the crossbar: Heat treatment of the blades went well. Tempering with the "bend it the opposite way" to straighten the slight bend introduced by quenching works like a charm. The blades turned out deadstraight despite their length (125cm from point to cross). Just clamp it to a square profile with shims to create a inverse curve and hang it in the oven to temper. Test-fit of the parts: Ready for a first swing and finding the correct pommel weight:
  7. A few hours with draw filing and a rotary tool to smoothen the fullers and it looks like this: u Then on to sandpaper 80 t o180 grit, the fullers take the most time:
  8. After doing more swords with different fuller demands I modified the device a bit. Now with the help of brass spacers, I can offset the chisel sideways, which is helpful for multiple fullers. The chisel made out of old files cut a lot better than industrial lathe bits. The ideal chisel blade angle is about 70°, a lot more than lathe bits. So the scraper can be held horizontally, which is easier to maintain.
  9. Forgot to post the finished machine: Our "holy roman belt grinder". After extensive use, I can say the time and money spent on the cyclone paid off! The airstream pulls away all dust, I don't need to wear a mask or clean up afterwards. It even cools the blades while grinding!!
  10. After a long absence from the forum, I now have time to post a little bit... The next project up is a classic italian "Spada a due mani" from Roberto Gotti's collection in Brescia. Actually I'll make two of them, which gives a fair sparring situation. This is how it should look like when finished: The blanks are cut out already and rough grinding of the distal taper and bevel is complete: I just found out it is a bad idea to finish the transition from the rectangular section to the hexagonal section before having done the side fullers... So the fullers come first :
  11. Brian, the post is indeed for hand protection. There can be one post (in this case for a leftie) or two posts, or none as the commonest option.
  12. I haven't had much time online in the past weeks, but here is a short update on the latest sword project. It is a sidesword typical for Achille Marozzo and his contemporaries (1536). Intended for civilian fencing, it is light (around 900g) and very agile. The pommel is hollow to achieve this low weight. It was also the first time that I heat treated the hilt, (clamped between two angle irons to prevent warping). Here are some pictures, excuse the rough look - it has already seen some sparring action.
  13. As there was some interest in posting stuff about plate armour work, I started this slightly off topic thread. It is not blades or hilts, yet it still involves steel, fire and heavy tools My problem is that I will find a piece I like and then want to make it, instead of starting with easier stuff. Here is the original that I want to make as my very first armouring project (Wallace Collection (A276): I tried with cardboard patterns, but cardboard won't bend in three dimensions, so I started with 1mm mild steel. Here are the tools used so far: There's a long wishlist of stuff I need to get it done in higher quality and especially carbon steel (mostly forms and stakes to bang into/onto) Here's the first prototype so far (articulation works, but needs more movement downwards, with a glove inside it's quite mobile): Next step is building the same thing again, with hopefully less errors and better fit!
  14. It is a work in progress and will take some time before there will be visible results... First project are articulated gauntlets. If it is not too off topic I will certainly post some pictures. Apart from that I can really, really recommend this forum: http://forums.armourarchive.org/ It is the equivalent of bladesmithsforum for armour!!
  15. Thanks guys! So a big log is what I'm going to get! Banding the top is probably a good idea, for a start a strong tension belt will do. Together with the just finished propane forge this will be my entry point into proper hot work (mostly plate armour though)
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