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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Florian F Fortner

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Florian F Fortner last won the day on July 20

Florian F Fortner had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Historical Fencing, Bibliography, Typography, Swordmaking, Sewing.

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  1. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    At this point I wish I had a forge, tools and skills to properly bend steel into any shape I need. I don't, so had to go the tough route of labour intensive and material wasting stock removal (Bending small diameters in 1045 cold always results in broken parts...) Cutting hundreds and hundreds of tiny slots with files... By far not finished.
  2. Saint Michael Archangel

    It seems your skills in swordmaking are only surpassed by your skills in leatherwork! The belt is more than stunning!!
  3. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    Thanks to all for the kind words! Today I could get some hours into the hilt, roughly shaping pieces and welding some of them together.
  4. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    The most time consuming part of this blade is the double fuller in the ricasso. I scrape them with my scraper tool and an asymmetrical bit. Then it's a lot of sanding (with the sandpaper placed on a round piece of steel). I will finish it finer as the build goes on. At the same time I started the hilt, just cut off some pieces of 1045 bars. Next week I hope to get some more progress on this...
  5. Renaissance Sidesword WIP

    My next project has started: A sidesword in the style of the 16th century bolognese fencing tradition. Blade length of about 93cm and overall weight of 1-1.1kg. The blade is based on a nice weapon from the citizen armoury of vienna, the hilt borrowed from a sword of the Wallace collection. So, here is what it should look like when finished: This blade: With this hilt (without the knuckle guard): The blade is made of spring steel for sparring use, outline cut out with a waterjet. Then I grind the distal taper on the belt grinder (with my new dust collection setup, which is great as it eliminates ALL the dust, I don't need safety glasses, masks or cleaning up afterwards) Next I grind the bevels roughly with the goniometer setup as usual: Now it's on to shaping the ricasso fullers and smoothing the bevels with files...
  6. Belt Grinder Dust Issue

    I decided to try version Nr.3. To reduce the open area around the grinding belt, I attached some parts made of aluminium sheet and a clear cover. Now there is only little room to escape for the dust before it's sucked into the cyclone. It does work well. The only thing I notice is that the airstream does not enter the grinder enclosure symmetrically, because the grinder itself is not symmetrical (tooling arm, tensioner, etc..) Will keep you updated after some serious grinding (I am starting a new sword WIP anyway )
  7. Belt Grinder Dust Issue

    The machine is (almost) finished now. It looks impressive but doesn't really suck up dust from a distance as I hoped. It moves a lot of air and has good suction if it is very close to the dust, but this is not easily doable with belt grinders So the further plan is to add more "dust trap features" to the grinder around the belt contact area and make the box around the grinder airtight so the dust collector can suck the dust through it without too much loss. Placing the hose under the grinder, where the coarse particles fall down doesn't keep the fine dust from rising up (here lots of sparks enter the dust collector) and placing the hose close to the belt contact area is impossible without big effort and impeding the vision onto the working area (here almost no sparks enter the dust collector, as the sparks fall down into the dustbin). So my best bet so far is to pull the dust through the grinder box (keeping the inlet and outlet cross sections equal). Any other ideas I should try? I am also still thinking about the spark trap bucket and how to keep it as loss-free as possible... However, the machine needs to work properly first! Here is a sketch of the three variants:
  8. Belt Grinder Dust Issue

    Ok, so this is a bucket with two pipes entering the lid, filled with water... How does this thing look inside? Do the pipes need to protrude far into the bucket? One more than the other? And doesn't most of the coarse dust also get caught in there? Then this bucket would fill up fast too... Or does it really just catch the sparks??
  9. Belt Grinder Dust Issue

    Alan, I'll heed your warning! Thanks! Do you think filling the bucket under the cyclone with water will do it? The cyclone filters out most of the dust down to 2 micron, so this will be caught in the bucket. Only floating dust of smaller size will go out to the filter. Brian, the specs are: 2500m^3/h, 2HP, 12" fan wheel. Got it new for around $300. As soon as it's finished I'll tell you if it is strong enough
  10. Belt Grinder Dust Issue

    The beast is alive (and taller than expected)! We are just waiting for the filter mats, then It will be ready for the belt grinder. It sucks up shovels of sawdust, filings, shavings and doesn't spit anything out the other end...
  11. Dealing with tapering of sword blades

    Yes, the y-axis is the cross section area in mm^2, the x-axis is the standardized distance from the hilt (sorry for the german labels, I took those directly out of a paper). A curve of the distal taper would look similar but will be incomplete information to judge the blade performance, only the cross section says it all. If you want I could give you the distal and width taper curves as well... I just wanted to get across that none of all those curves will be linear and grinding a good blade will be more work
  12. Dealing with tapering of sword blades

    Peter is spot on with his analysis! In my research with original blades, which ranges from 15th to 18th century european blades, a constant bevel angle is a rare thing. To get good handling in fencing, the cross section curve will be necessarily nonlinear, this implies a constantly changing bevel angle along the blade. This applies to all swords - two-handers, sideswords, rapiers, smallswords and others that are intended for proper fencing as described in the various treatises! (Meat cleavers like Pallasches and some cavalry sabers are exempt from this, there the momentum in swinging cuts is the focus of design) Usually the cross section curve has a double S-shape. The cross section at the hilt is big and drops significantly within the first 1/5th of the blade, then stays level for some time before dropping again before about a 1/3rd from the tip, then tapering out towards the point (see picture, a very nice Juan Martinez rapier blade from around 1600) With a linear taper, handling will always be less than optimal and many people try to correct things through the weight of the pommel which makes matters worse. A good blade will handle well without tiring the arm too much if you try it on its own without hilt, grip and pommel. If it doesn't, it never will. If you close your eyes, the subjectively felt weight will be in the 1/3rd closest to the hilt. Here are some cross section diagrams of original blades: Various one handed swords Some big two-handers:
  13. WIP Chiseled Manieristic Rapier Hilt

    Thanks for the praise guys! Today I started moving the metal with a stipling chisel. It makes the difference between "clean cut" and "organic look". I found this technique online, by a master engraver called Carl Bleile - this project is a thourough learning experience After that, one final step of smoothing the surfaces should get it done.
  14. Belt Grinder Dust Issue

    Now I have time to start building the dust collection system and this turns into a WIP... Here is the Cyclone body, handbuilt (what a stupid time-consuming job). Next step is the inlet and a cart to mount the dustbin, cyclone and blower. I am really curious how this will work!!
  15. WIP Chiseled Manieristic Rapier Hilt

    Here are the first rounds of chiseling the pommel. To begin with, I draw the outlines with permanent marker, then remove the background in two rounds (appr. 1mm deep). The I even out the background with a ballpoint chisel (also to improve contrast for the further work). Actually this is quite fast, thought it will take much longer - thanks to pneumatic engravers