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Florian F Fortner

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Florian F Fortner last won the day on March 26

Florian F Fortner had the most liked content!

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About Florian F Fortner

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    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Historical Fencing, Bibliography, Typography, Blade and Hiltmaking obviously.

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  1. Too many fencing events, too little time for sword making... After welding the parts together with the ricasso-block and some fiddling around I could do a first test fit of the hilt on the blade, which is a critical thing because the pommel will not be peened in place but detachable so I can put the blade on its own in a tube for travelling. No wobbling allowed
  2. Wow, clean knives! I really LOVE the first one!
  3. Thanks guys! So I'll keep on posting then!! Chris, this is the first hilt where I write down every hour spent working in detail (as a reference for future projects, we all know the "I think it's a week's work... and then it takes a month ). 35 hours so far. I just tacked the first pieces together. It's 90% filing (all by hand) and 10% chiseling. My estimate for the whole hilt is 100 hours, so I am curious how far I'll be from that number.
  4. I hope it doesn't get boring, yet the steel only reveals the final forms slowly. Here are some more pics: Bent the end of the knuckle guard Rough shaping An idea of the shape The blue contrast color is a huge help to see the depth of the relief, and the file marks of course
  5. This is unbelievably good! I think you are on a par with the old masters in everything you do. Just impressive and inspirational! I have an indiscreet question: How many hours do you spend on making a dagger, knife and scabbard like this?
  6. Wow! Very creative idea, I like this very much!
  7. Al, the stock material was 2000x100x9mm, I had this blade, two rapier blades and two daggers waterjet cut from it. It was quite efficient this way with little material remaining. The rest can always be used for springs (will need some soon for a wheel lock anyway) Collin, look here: Jonas, consistent blackening is like a secret to many but actually easy. Just heat the parts to about 500-600°C (a grey color, temp depends on the steel composition) let them cool slowly and when they are below 200°C (or lower, I had success with room temp. as well) rub them with a rag dipped in linseed oil. The steel will turn to a nice black color, I don't have an explanation for what goes on there, but it works like a charm. This can also be repeated when the black comes off from sparring. Another, historically applied method, is rubbing the steel with a linseed oil soaked cloth at constant higher temperatures, for example a breastplate with the rearside in the fire, rubbing the front. You build up layers of not properly-burnt oil that looks a bit like tarmac. This has been used on cheaper armour and weapons as a good rust protection.
  8. Lukas, The blade is not sharp as it is intended for sparring. I might make one more with a sharp blade for test cutting in the future. Al, the lugs are not welded on, it's made from one piece of steel. I also do not weld on the tangs or the tang threads. It is much better to cut it long enough and thread the tang directly.
  9. This is a fine exercise in patience . The pas d'ane rings are roughly finished, now I am filing away at the crossguard. It is a very dynamic shape, because it is bent, tilted 30° and twisted around the axis by about 40°. Bending the carbon steel rods did work fine cold, to my surprise, even though the material is a 14mm diameter.
  10. I forgot to take pictures of the finished sword, here they are! It handles nicely and, like the original, the blade bends a little bit under its own weight yet when you swing it it stabilizes itself perfectly.
  11. Peter, have you any secrets to share on how you get from file-finish to this unbelievable smooth and perfect satin surface??
  12. The cross section makes the sword. Usually, the wider the blade, the thinner it is. A two hander with a 5cm wide blade can be just 6mm thick at the guard (BL4 from the Zeughaus Graz for example). Another two hander is 34mm wide and has a ricasso thickness of 9mm (A473 from the Wallace collection). They are both for the same application (chopping of unarmed people's heads). The designs with small or no pommels only really work for late smallswords (because the blade is the major weight of the weapon compared to all other parts), pallasches and sabers (because their handling is based on swings from the elbow or shoulder and the pommel would impact this negatively).
  13. BTW, I did a testpiece where I made the relief first and then tried to bend this U-shape, yet it didn't bend uniformly because of the varying diameters and made some kinks and the shapes distorted. So for now it seems the better method to bend first and then do all the shaping (so no preshaping on a lathe, boo!) I wonder how they did this back then, because from the few hilts where I definitely know how they were made, they did all the shaping and then bent the bars at quite high temperatures before forge welding them together. Yet, these hilts were much simpler designs with just geometric decoration.
  14. In another topic I document the progress of a rapier blade, here I will post pics and progress of a hilt that I wanted to make for a long time but did not dare because of the incredible time and effort needed for such a piece. I am no artist and not very artistically talented, so the result will not look like if Cellini or Negroli had made it . However, you have to start at some point... This is the original that it is based on: I will modify it because this is basically a sidesword hilt that doesn't give enough protection in the right spots for rapier fencing. The mods will become clear as I go along. Here is the humble beginning, just bent bars of carbon steel (the originals usually are made of softer steels, because it is easier to work with and they didn't have tools as good as we do). Furthermore I will heat treat the hilt so it is more resilient to damage when sparring. This awful lot of work should last at least some time. Next is lots of filing. I am using small machinists files, precision files and needle files (all from a very very good german company, St.Egydyer files). It looks quite rough in the beginning, and gets finer and more detailed later on. This project also made the decision to finally buy a pneumatic engraving system. We went for the Enset machine, because it can go at slow speeds and can chisel with power. So this another area that needs practising! This is going to be a longterm project, so please have some patience... If you have any hints or techniques to speed things up, please let me know!!
  15. I had only little time this weekend, so I just did the ricasso fullers. The tool works nicely even with a 20mm wide scraping surface.