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Florian F Fortner

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Everything posted by Florian F Fortner

  1. Finally, finished! The handling is beatiful and as it's intended to be a practical sparring and tournament Feder, the decoration is ok-ish for the time spent. However, a nice deep relief cutting would lift it to another level... (next time!!)
  2. Short update: Blade finished to 80grit, grip formed and bound with hemp yarn (I will never do one without again, the possibility of breakage by the vibrations and movements of the long tang is too high). Again: the major work are the fullers in the Schilt (wide part at the base of the blade) done with half-round files and sandpaper on steel cylinders. It's time to get the 4" and 6" grinding wheels for the belt grinder ready...
  3. Since I started training with two-handed swords recently, I had to start a new project right away: A proper Fechtfeder. Everything on the market is made for abuse and a low price and therefore not even close to a desired handling characteristic. The original that inspired me was a practice sword by Ulrich Diefstetter from the MET. The blade is modeled after 3D scans of extant Feders from Belgium. Here is how it should look finally (minus the blade etching and a simpler crossguard decoration for this first take) : Blade cut and roughly ground, Crossguard in rough f
  4. Thanks for the encouragement! Gazz, what you describe has been also done in the past. They inlaid a silver chain into the steel guard, which would look nice, but not hold up well to abuse and is well beyond my skills! James, of course 3D printing a wax model and then casting would be the easier option by far. Yet, I don't have access to any of this and think it would be prohibitively expensive for parts of this size. Milling is not an option because of the organic and sweeping curves of most of the guard parts. The process I settled on for the moment is as follows: *
  5. Time for another project. The blade is a simple hexagonal/diamond rapier blade and almost finished: The hilt, however, is going to be one of the most time-consuming and elaborate designs that can be found on a sword like this. There have been only few cutlers who did this design, mostly in France and northern Italy. I am going for a hybrid between these two: The chains on the sides of the bars are the most intimitating part. Here are some pieces to test the process of making them (with a rough finish and the cutouts for the "scrolled face" begun): How would you
  6. Finally finished! This project was a great learning experience - as usual. The spiralised sword handles were a challenge. Especially getting the leather into the recesses to expose the flutes in the wood. Another funny thing is the behaviour of different types of steel while blackening. Carbon and mild steel turn into a nice greyish black, whereas spring steel that i used for the crossbar plates (containing silicon) turns into a reddish hue. Not a big issue, but a thing to rememeber for next time!
  7. Mike, the crossbar is made up of four pieces, the qillons and a plate over the ricasso on either side. This resulsts in a perefect rectangular slot for the tang that will fit the blade snugly. Making the whole crossbar out of one piece and the piercing and filing the slot would be the original method when forging.
  8. Next update, the blades are almost finished, the hilts waiting for blackening. The grip cores are ready for the leather cover...
  9. Starting with the crossbar: Heat treatment of the blades went well. Tempering with the "bend it the opposite way" to straighten the slight bend introduced by quenching works like a charm. The blades turned out deadstraight despite their length (125cm from point to cross). Just clamp it to a square profile with shims to create a inverse curve and hang it in the oven to temper. Test-fit of the parts: Ready for a first swing and finding the correct pommel weight:
  10. A few hours with draw filing and a rotary tool to smoothen the fullers and it looks like this: u Then on to sandpaper 80 t o180 grit, the fullers take the most time:
  11. After doing more swords with different fuller demands I modified the device a bit. Now with the help of brass spacers, I can offset the chisel sideways, which is helpful for multiple fullers. The chisel made out of old files cut a lot better than industrial lathe bits. The ideal chisel blade angle is about 70°, a lot more than lathe bits. So the scraper can be held horizontally, which is easier to maintain.
  12. Forgot to post the finished machine: Our "holy roman belt grinder". After extensive use, I can say the time and money spent on the cyclone paid off! The airstream pulls away all dust, I don't need to wear a mask or clean up afterwards. It even cools the blades while grinding!!
  13. After a long absence from the forum, I now have time to post a little bit... The next project up is a classic italian "Spada a due mani" from Roberto Gotti's collection in Brescia. Actually I'll make two of them, which gives a fair sparring situation. This is how it should look like when finished: The blanks are cut out already and rough grinding of the distal taper and bevel is complete: I just found out it is a bad idea to finish the transition from the rectangular section to the hexagonal section before having done the side fullers...
  14. Brian, the post is indeed for hand protection. There can be one post (in this case for a leftie) or two posts, or none as the commonest option.
  15. I haven't had much time online in the past weeks, but here is a short update on the latest sword project. It is a sidesword typical for Achille Marozzo and his contemporaries (1536). Intended for civilian fencing, it is light (around 900g) and very agile. The pommel is hollow to achieve this low weight. It was also the first time that I heat treated the hilt, (clamped between two angle irons to prevent warping). Here are some pictures, excuse the rough look - it has already seen some sparring action.
  16. As there was some interest in posting stuff about plate armour work, I started this slightly off topic thread. It is not blades or hilts, yet it still involves steel, fire and heavy tools My problem is that I will find a piece I like and then want to make it, instead of starting with easier stuff. Here is the original that I want to make as my very first armouring project (Wallace Collection (A276): I tried with cardboard patterns, but cardboard won't bend in three dimensions, so I started with 1mm mild steel. Here are the tools used so far: There's a l
  17. It is a work in progress and will take some time before there will be visible results... First project are articulated gauntlets. If it is not too off topic I will certainly post some pictures. Apart from that I can really, really recommend this forum: http://forums.armourarchive.org/ It is the equivalent of bladesmithsforum for armour!!
  18. Thanks guys! So a big log is what I'm going to get! Banding the top is probably a good idea, for a start a strong tension belt will do. Together with the just finished propane forge this will be my entry point into proper hot work (mostly plate armour though)
  19. Hey guys, I got a really nice anvil, which I don't know the exact english term of, yet no clue on how to best mount it (see pic). It seems like it is good old quality stuff. Should I put it into a huge log, a big disc of wood mounted on a heavy steel plate? I don't want it to fall over and still be a little bit movable. Anything to improve hammering noise? Any feedback is greatly appreciated! The anvil is about 2 1/2 feet tall, 2 feet across the horns and weighs an estimated 60 pounds.
  20. Thanks guys for the praise! It's a pleasure to post my work in this place!! Jerrod, the grip is quite easy. You shape the wood core to the finished form with all the flutes, then you wrap the wire as tight as you would on a flat grip and secure the ends. Lastly, you hammer the wire into the flutes (with a smooth rounded chisel or similar, to prevent cutting or kinking the wire). The wire will stretch and stay in the flutes because it's annealed. As for the sparring abuse: If the hilt is made of 1045 or better, the damage will be on the surface only, nothing deep. Some fencing master
  21. Lukas, I rather put the work into something I use a few times a week instead into something that will just hang on the wall and not get used at all. Pommel is finished now: And here finally the assembled sword. I'm off tomorrow for a fencing event, there I'll have the possibility to test it thoroughly...
  22. Wow, wow, wow! I love the blade shape with the back ridge and the handle (both could be from a 16th century assassins dagger ) The handle reminds me of this:
  23. Doug, yes sideswords are cut and thrust swords. They come in all kinds of shapes and sizes, yet it must be suitable for cuts and thrusts equally and will often be used with sidearms like bucklers or targas. Maybe you had the narrower more thrust oriented rapier in mind? If you are interested in the use of this kind of weapon, just google Achille Marozzo and you will get the idea...
  24. C Craft, yes this part of the machine developed over time as I usually make long blades and holding an accurate angle gets difficult. See the end of this page for more details! Once again I am so sad that there are no steel-casting companies around anymore - Filing is the only alternative... The wooden core of the grip with the flutes (which I later found out were not deep enough) But finally... blade, hilt and grip are finished! Just the pommel needs more work (hollowing out of the inside because of too much weight)
  25. Charles, for welding I use a TIG machine so I can always match the filler to the materials welded - 1045 in this case. Zeb, so far all those weapons are for my personal use, I do a lot of historical fencing and always strive for the best tool for the job. After every collection of period weapons that I examine, I get new ideas I don't think selling stuff like that is an economic choice - too much work, too little potential customers (they either want cheap sparring swords or want it to look original and don't care about the handling)
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