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Robert D.

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Robert D. last won the day on August 24 2016

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About Robert D.

  • Birthday 01/02/1981

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    Murray Utah

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  1. Robert D.

    A few new bronzes.

    Ahhh, ok, so to like hold a wraparound style garb on and to show off, I get it.
  2. Robert D.

    Questions on Pattern weld steels.

    I still have two untouched bars of .130 thick 15N20 from my last order from the NJSB, I probably will just order the .065 stuff, but I was hoping to cut down my billet prep time and or find another steel that would work well with my 1084 for good contrast. And Gary's posts are about 50 percent of why I want this press, I want to start trying out some of his processes for his mosaics, those are SWEET blades. The other half is multibar viking stuff....
  3. So I was browsing on NJSB site today, and noticed that he is out of stock on 15N20 in reasonably thick sections ( .130 ) And also appears to be out of L6 as well. I am about to build one of those mini air over hydraulic presses that have a sticky later this month ( I dont have space currently for anything bigger then that ) so I was wanting to stock up on a bit of steel to play around with it , I am doing the heating in a charcoal forge and I lack a heat treat oven so i am currently limited to simpler steels. Any other steels I could consider , They do have the .065 in 15N20 in stock but I am kind of wanting to do thicker bright layers.
  4. Robert D.

    A few new bronzes.

    Those are awesome. However, I am curious, what would the pins be used for, they look to be pretty big.
  5. Robert D.

    Forged Integral Persian Style Dagger

    That is one Elegant knife. I wish I could make something look so dang good...
  6. Robert D.

    Some of my recent work

    All of those are beautiful. but the second to last one is stunning...
  7. Robert D.

    New chef knives

    Those are Awesome
  8. Robert D.

    Let's be careful out there

    Here in Utah we currently have the Dollar Ridge fire going. Its about 70-80 miles away from Salt Lake, but on Friday morning last week there was enough smoke from it blown into the valley that it looked like the entire southern end of the valley was on fire. Things are just getting started here as well, if the dry weather keeps up we will probably have at least another 3-4 large fires around the state. Kind of makes me miss doing Wildfire fighting, was a fun summer job. Everyone be safe out there.
  9. Robert D.

    Equipment needed for dagger making?

    I wont disagree with you there, as there are a wide range of steels that are simple to heat treat optimally. I simply have some experience with 1084 and 5160 and a simple setup, I wouldnt want to suggest something I have not had personal experience working with, I also have used O1 and W2 in my simple forge setup, and while my results with O1 have been " acceptable " I would hesitate to suggest it without first implying that optimal results wont be had without a LOT of playing around with the process to fit ones equipment and ability. As for W2, the first pair of blades I have ever made from it are sitting at home on my desk right now waiting for clay so I can start on the next stage of this addiction known as " Hamon chasing ". I did word that statement kind of poorly, as I re read it, I can see how it could be taken to say those are the only two steels that would work. For that I apologize.
  10. Robert D.

    Equipment needed for dagger making?

    Not sure how much of a difference there is between smokeless coke and charcoal, ive never used smokeless coke. But charcoal puts off a little bit of smoke at first when you light it, but once its going it puts off almost no smoke and smells like you are running a BBQ in your back yard. As for heat treatment, it entirely depends on the steels used. For 1084 and 5160, Just a forge, a container full of oil, and some tongs and a way to temper ( Kitchen oven or toaster oven will work, Use a fire brick or a tray full of sand to help normalize the temps ) But for other steels you need the ability to heat the steel to a specific range and then hold it there for a period of time before quenching it in order to get the best performance from the steel.
  11. Robert D.

    Equipment needed for dagger making?

    Going forged means a bit more investment up front, but it can be done for cheap depending on a few questions. Propane or Solid fuel ( Charcoal or Coal ) There is a bit more investment on a propane forge, most prebuilt models do not come coated, so in addition to the forge you need the coating supplies. Where as with charcoal you grab a few bricks, a pipe, a hair dryer and a bag of charcoal and be up and running in short order. ( block off about half of the air intake on the hair dryer to throttle down the airflow, even on low they produce too much air. ) Anvil Dont buy the ASO anvils ( Anvil shaped objects ) from Harbor Freight, I made that mistake. There are a few people that sell decent smaller knifemaking anvils for reasonable prices. Steel choice. Depending on the steel you decide to use, you might have to ship blades off for heat treat. with a charcoal / propane forge, you could reliably heat treat steels like 1084 and 5160 and get great results, but 1095 and many other steels you wont get the optimal performance out of them without expensive temp controlled environments, and some you just cant do without the right gear. Files. Get a few good ones, Once they wear out, you can always use them in pattern welded pieces. Hammer / Tongs a decent cross peen hammer ( 3lb ) and a smaller ( 1lb ) hammer at minimum, along with at least one set of tongs.
  12. Robert D.

    The landscape that shaped us.

    Perhaps we should have a " Northern Utah " meetup and hammer in, If you guys like beer, Taqueria 27 has an Amazing Jalapeno Cream ale they sell in growlers ( Wasatch Brewery ) for cheap. And its right off highland and 21st south. Amazing Fish taco's as well.
  13. Robert D.

    KITH WIP- kusarigama

    I really REALLY like the handle design you have on this one.
  14. Robert D.

    Broken O1 blade

    I hadnt thought of forging temps being part of the cause, I forged this blade and the 2 others a good while back, so I cant honestly recall. I guess I ruled that one out thinking the Normalization would have solved it if that were the case, Guess I should do a bit of break testing to see if my normalization process isnt doing enough work on the grain structure of the steel. Yay experiment time.....
  15. Robert D.

    Broken O1 blade

    I know its been a long while since I have posted anything, I have been very busy with non knife related things these past few months ( Prepping my older two children for their new " Gifted and Talented" school they start this summer, and welcoming a new baby boy into the family ) but have finally found some time to get back into the shop and work on some projects I had laying around just needing some finishing work done to them. On this one ( and the two as of yet unbroken ones I still have floating around ) I did something a bit different on the heat treat, I did the standard 3 normalization cycles, but then when I went to do the hardening phase, I built the fire up ( Charcoal forge ) and placed the blade in my baffle pipe ( thanks again Alan for that tip ) and let it come up to the point of seeing the shadows, then I kill the airflow and watch the blade closely for color changes, basically a poor mans soak for about 10 minutes from the residual heat of the burning charcoal already going around the pipe. Afterwards a 2x round of tempering at 450f in my oven on a firebrick with an oven thermometer watching the temps. To me, the grain looks a bit bigger then it should be, So my thoughts are either my soak process got hotter then I thought it did, but I didnt notice any major color change during the no airflow process ( done in the dark at night outside ) or my normalization process wasnt done well enough prior to the hardening cycle. But I am open to suggestions, I am going to forge out a few more blades out of this O1 I have ( half inch rod stock ) and try to bring the blade up just before the phase change and then kill the airflow and see if the residual heat causes it to hit the phase change temps without airflow. So, thoughts, suggestions, critique on my thought process on getting more out of O1 with a simple solid fuel forge, I have about another 6 feet of this drill rod left over, and wont be in a position to buy a heat treat oven for at least another year, and I really like forging O1 out for smaller blades. But everything I have made from it prior was done without a soak of any kind so I know I am not getting the most of out this steel.