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Robert D.

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Robert D. last won the day on August 24 2016

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About Robert D.

  • Birthday 01/02/1981

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    Male
  • Location
    Murray Utah

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  1. Robert D.

    More heat

    Backpressure is the exact issue I was / am having with mine as well. I closed off the back entirely and the front down to the width of the stock I was working. Had 8-10 inch flames shooting out the front and couldnt get it past a mid orange heat. Opened up the back and front doors and it jumped to yellow heat with a nice yellow dragons breath out both ends. Still have not tried to forge weld in it since doing that change, but its been WAY too wet here recently, Going to give it another coat of ITC-100 before I give it a shot because I really want to go with fluxless welding.
  2. Robert D.

    My Humble Beginnings:

    Anyone else surprised that the Great Gary didnt get his start doing mosaics? My first knife is sitting in my dads gunsafe, Once I hit 100 knives I am going to take that knife and compare it to my first and see how far I have gone. I think I am currently at like 27 or 28 finished blades.
  3. Robert D.

    A pair of kitchen blades(pic heavy)

    I really like both of those, the blades are great, but those handles and bolsters are outstanding.
  4. Robert D.

    NO FLUX WELDING

    I think I just figured out what my issue might be with my propane forge. Its a very small forge, venturi style burner with firebricks front and back to cover the openings. So I started reading https://ronreil.abana.org/troubleshooting.shtml And I noticed where he says that one of the most common issues with propane forge welding is backpressure, I have two full bricks flush on the back blocking it entirely, and only keeping a small gap about the width of the handle between the bricks in the front. So now I plan to go home and finish slotting my bricks for work placement and then perhaps I may fire the badboy up and give it another go.
  5. Robert D.

    NO FLUX WELDING

    Well, Both of my attempts failed. odd thing is when I pulled the billets apart, they were nice and clean still. So I think my Propane forge just wasnt hot enough, it was in the mid to high orange range, One billet was 15N20 and W2, and the other was 15N20 and 1084. Thankfully I didnt try to force them to weld by hitting them stupid hard, so they are both still nice and straight and clean, so its just a matter of cleaning up the mating surfaces and giving it another go. But now I have to figure out why my propane forge isnt getting hot enough.
  6. Robert D.

    Hydraulic Press Build W I P

    I thought as much, but with 22 tons of pressure being used, its always best to double check.
  7. Robert D.

    Hydraulic Press Build W I P

    It might just be the light or the angle. but it looks like the left side of the support isnt flat like the right side.
  8. Robert D.

    6" chef

    Not exactly. basically you toss on a rubber glove, and rub superglue on the handle till you build up a bit of it, then sand it with high grit paper ( 1200+ ) and then buff.... both of these blades have that process done to them.
  9. Robert D.

    6" chef

    I did a blade with Lacewood a bit ago, Initially I was quite disappointed in it, then I resanded it up to 1200g and then did a CA glue treatment to it, and now its gorgeous and I dont want to give it up. Great looking blade man.
  10. Robert D.

    NO FLUX WELDING

    I just finished relining my propane forge, and plan to give this process a try this weekend, I have two completely full bottles of propane and two completely prepped billets ready to go for this test. I am going to try one with Kerosene and one with WD40, just to try both out and to see if there is any adverse reaction to my forge lining ( ITC100 and Satanite ) because having the forge down for days is a drag.
  11. Robert D.

    Hydrollic Press Time

    I contemplated building something similar at one point, but decided against it for the simple fact that my welding skills are less then stellar. But one thing I noticed when reading that thread was that overbuilding it as much as possible was a good thing. 20 tons of pressure is a lot more then is needed to send even a square billet through a wall or a person when something designed to restrain the pressure gives.
  12. Robert D.

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    Muscle memory IS important, repetitive motions get more precise as you practice them on a regular basis. The martial art of Taijiquan is one good example. Two very telling instances of this, are the people that can flip a balisong or the people that can spin a pair of nunchucks or a rope dart like Bruce Lee... In my younger and stupider days as a squid, I would get half way smashed, and then bet drinks on if I could spin a pair of nunchucks without hitting myself, The moment they fell into my hands my hands knew exactly what to do, and I won that bet probably 98% of the time. Granted it took me about 12 years of at least an hour a days practice to get to that point, but even now 15 years after being stupid, you put a pair of nunchucks in my hand and I can spin them like I did back then and I might pick them up two or three times a year now if that. Others have said do your grinding practice on flat mild / unknown steel, and I would agree with that, Gerhard has a point, slap a belt on, and throw a couple bevels on some mild steel first to settle your nerves and get your hands in check and then take your good steel for a dance with the grinder.
  13. Robert D.

    New to Knife Making

    I used my 1x30 from HF for about 3 years to grind my blades, Its not as fast as the guys on YouTube with the 2x72's but it certainly can do the job. I still use my 1x30 for a lot of the handle grinding and shaping. And I second the part about files, you can remove quite a lot of material from a knife blade with a good file. There is a video by Gough custom knives where he shows how to build a simple jig for beveling a blade, with a couple minor tweaks and a good file you can bevel a blade much faster then you think with that jig.
  14. Robert D.

    EDC stock removal project -WIP-

    Ok, so its a pretty cool trick. Grab a drill bit that is the same size as the thickness of your stock and lay it on a flat surface, take a sharpie to the edge of your blade, then drag the knife along the tip of the drill bit on its flat side, do this on both sides, and it will leave you a nice even set of lines that basically gets you to the " like a dime " thickness you want to grind your blades to pre heat treat.
  15. Robert D.

    EDC stock removal project -WIP-

    Have you seen the drill bit trick to mark your center lines down the edge? As others suggested on the other post, I would mark your centerline down the edge, and then grind at very hard ( like 45 deg ) angle down to your marked line, and then pull your grind higher up the blade by slowly adjusting the angle you hold the blade down to the belt. Freehand grinding is an Art, and it certainly takes practice, I am horrible at it, and I still use jigs on my tool rest to set things up and I dont go to freehand mode till my bevel is fully established and I am moving to the higher grit belts.
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