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Robert D.

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Robert D. last won the day on February 21 2021

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About Robert D.

  • Birthday 01/02/1981

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    Murray Utah

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  1. So the TLDR on my absence is that I got involved with a woman for about 2.5 years who was NOT ok with me spending time in the shop. Unless it was to make her family hunting blades. With that hot mess being out of the way, I was able to double down and get some serious work done. I would consider this a Jian with some xyphos inspiration. 1084 steel, black walnut, stablized burl of unknown type, and copper. Tempered at around 450 it has a hardness of about 58 R according to my testing files. Its nice and flexible and VERY whippy. Its a gift for my room mates Sifu, who is retiring. I forged the blade to about 75% because I didnt want to get too thin on the edges when grinding. Took a while to file it down and get the bevels to meet in the middle but I am very happy with the results. Handle is both epoxy and peened on, feels solid and weighs in just under 1.25 lbs. Scabbard is leather wrapped balsawood. Thanks to a post I remembered from here about that kind of construction it actually is quite rigid for its composition. First sword, first leather wrapped scabbard. Wont be the last of either.....
  2. On my old coal\charcoal forge, if i didnt aim for a 6 or so inch deep fire i had to micromanage my forge. Just like with steel, your better off with more fire then you need then less...
  3. Geoff has my intent in mind.... The woman im eventually making this ring for, has been the one who got away for 20 years ago, right now she is asleep in my bed. Im going to make many things for her, whatever she wants, last year i made 5 blades with hamons for her family for christmas right now its just a concept of passion, not profit.
  4. ive been doing basic research, so honestly at this point one or all materials may change.
  5. Part of this billet is meant to prototype my future wifes wedding ring... Going to make the real one with probably white and rose gold, but that stuff is expensive so i want to play with cheaper stuff. Im probably going to cut like a whole side off ( longways, like .250 x .250 x 4 inches ) and twist it. The rest, im not sure, was actually just thinking pick a pattern, throw the rest together and sell it as is to other makers.
  6. Ok, so i didnt think this would work, but it did. So now im looking for ideas. This started off as a stack of i think 32 layers of thin stock brass and copper. Wrapped in stainless foil under compression. Heated in my heat treat oven for about 6 hours, i think I did it about 1-3 deg below the full melt point of brass. Then pulled out and hammered on. Today I forge heated it and worked it down about half its original thickness. was thinking doing ladder because then i can draw longer as a plan and as part of the process.
  7. Ohhh I TOTALLY have a couple ideas for this. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Jaron Martindale 3. Geoff Keyes 4. Aiden Carley-Clopton 5. Brian Dougherty 6. Eric Morgan 7. Don Abbott 8. Doug Webster 9. Alan Longmire 10. Ted Stocksdale 11. Chiyo Razi 12. Joshua States 13. Bruno 14. Robert D
  8. So its been about a year or so since I have been active here, I blame life. I decided to get back into things in a BIG way, in that I decided to forge a sword'ish type thing. My new girlfriend is a huge fan of the pirates movies so its going to be very pirate'ish in the end since its hers. 80CRV2 steel , started off as a 14 inch bar of 1.25 x .250 , now its about 3/16th thick at its thickest point and is about 19 inches from shoulder to tip. I am going to channel it and weld a threaded rod as my girlfriend wants a fancy handguard and pommel nut. Pic one is at the end of the first day, took about 4 hours ( Reference bar is 14 inch W2, those pics are coming soon ) but went full preform on the first day. And then here it is after day two, Never done anything this big before, its a little wonky, i need to heat it and straighten it a bit, but its way better then I thought it would turn out. Im considering figuring out a fuller tool for it, we will see once I get it cleaned up and grinding started.
  9. I am going with a steel sheet clading just to satisfy my kid sister, whos basement and garage I currently reside in ( TLDR: I ended a relationship and am in the rebuild process ) so regardless of the reasons, that is why mine will have a stainless steel exterior.
  10. I actually got stuck on it for a bit ( IRL stuffs ) so its still sitting, but I should have it done completely this weekend, Door is built and just needs to be attached and then the whole thing wrapped in sheet steel and its done. doing it in 110v is not hard Brian, its just a matter of figuring out what your final amp numbers are and the building the coil to fit inside that amp restriction.
  11. I second the reflection pic, thats awesome....
  12. for those, I have been contemplating a coffin handled bowie ( ala Gary Mulkey style ) with a frame handle on a hidden tang, but my qualm is do I break down and tune my venturi forge for welding ( had it 3 years and have NEVER been able to weld in it ) or do I just forge out a blade in W2 and go with a hamon on it. sometimes you have a blade that you want the handle work to do the blade justice, and sometimes you have handle scales that you hope you can make a blade that does them justice. I totally get where Geoff is coming from asking this, its something I myself fight myself on constantly.
  13. Also, The Combat Abrasives Shredder pack should have come with a tube of semi solid goop which is a belt lubricant. Are you using that, I have found that with the low grits ( 36 specifically ) it helps a ton. I bought my shredder pack a year ago, and am still using my first 36g belt with that stuff and it still cuts like it was brand new. But I only use 36g for profiling, the scratches from 36g on a bevel take AGES to hand sand out.
  14. I agree with Brian, 500 seems a bit steep for that, And the energy cost to use it on blades will be excessive to say the least. I mean will it work, Yes, most pottery kilns get up to and past the temps needed to HT a stainless blade, ( If I recall my HS pottery correctly, some porcelain fires at cone 7-8 which is 2100+ f ) but there is a LOT of wasted space in that if its not modular and you can pull sections off. If I recall correctly, you are in Northern Utah, If you do pick it up, I would be interested to take it off your hands to use as a Pottery Kiln and would be more then happy to help you build a HT oven in addition to paying you for the investment on picking it up. I am actually in the process of building one right now infact.
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