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Robert D.

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Robert D. last won the day on February 21 2021

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About Robert D.

  • Birthday 01/02/1981

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    Murray Utah

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  1. Ohhh I TOTALLY have a couple ideas for this. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Jaron Martindale 3. Geoff Keyes 4. Aiden Carley-Clopton 5. Brian Dougherty 6. Eric Morgan 7. Don Abbott 8. Doug Webster 9. Alan Longmire 10. Ted Stocksdale 11. Chiyo Razi 12. Joshua States 13. Bruno 14. Robert D
  2. So its been about a year or so since I have been active here, I blame life. I decided to get back into things in a BIG way, in that I decided to forge a sword'ish type thing. My new girlfriend is a huge fan of the pirates movies so its going to be very pirate'ish in the end since its hers. 80CRV2 steel , started off as a 14 inch bar of 1.25 x .250 , now its about 3/16th thick at its thickest point and is about 19 inches from shoulder to tip. I am going to channel it and weld a threaded rod as my girlfriend wants a fancy handguard and pommel nut. Pic one is at the end of the
  3. I am going with a steel sheet clading just to satisfy my kid sister, whos basement and garage I currently reside in ( TLDR: I ended a relationship and am in the rebuild process ) so regardless of the reasons, that is why mine will have a stainless steel exterior.
  4. I actually got stuck on it for a bit ( IRL stuffs ) so its still sitting, but I should have it done completely this weekend, Door is built and just needs to be attached and then the whole thing wrapped in sheet steel and its done. doing it in 110v is not hard Brian, its just a matter of figuring out what your final amp numbers are and the building the coil to fit inside that amp restriction.
  5. I second the reflection pic, thats awesome....
  6. for those, I have been contemplating a coffin handled bowie ( ala Gary Mulkey style ) with a frame handle on a hidden tang, but my qualm is do I break down and tune my venturi forge for welding ( had it 3 years and have NEVER been able to weld in it ) or do I just forge out a blade in W2 and go with a hamon on it. sometimes you have a blade that you want the handle work to do the blade justice, and sometimes you have handle scales that you hope you can make a blade that does them justice. I totally get where Geoff is coming from asking this, its something I myself fight myself o
  7. Also, The Combat Abrasives Shredder pack should have come with a tube of semi solid goop which is a belt lubricant. Are you using that, I have found that with the low grits ( 36 specifically ) it helps a ton. I bought my shredder pack a year ago, and am still using my first 36g belt with that stuff and it still cuts like it was brand new. But I only use 36g for profiling, the scratches from 36g on a bevel take AGES to hand sand out.
  8. I agree with Brian, 500 seems a bit steep for that, And the energy cost to use it on blades will be excessive to say the least. I mean will it work, Yes, most pottery kilns get up to and past the temps needed to HT a stainless blade, ( If I recall my HS pottery correctly, some porcelain fires at cone 7-8 which is 2100+ f ) but there is a LOT of wasted space in that if its not modular and you can pull sections off. If I recall correctly, you are in Northern Utah, If you do pick it up, I would be interested to take it off your hands to use as a Pottery Kiln and would be more then hap
  9. I am having a similar issue right now, I bought a set of VERY beautiful Ironwood scales and now that I have them and am looking at them all I can think of is " Im not worthy" Mono steel seems plain for them, but I dont want to do something that causes the blade and the handle to compete for the viewers eyes. Pics momentarily.
  10. ill have to look into it, I have the Fotek SSR ( i think thats what its named, Bought it a year ago and sat on it ) but I have a couple VERY large CPU heatsinks sitting in storage that I plan to use to cool this, Benefits of your main IRL job being IT and performance PC building being your primary passion is that you have old hardware laying about that is perfect for your new attempts. I bought a roll of roofing flashing ( basically a roll of thin stainless steel ) that is long enough to wrap the whole thing, which is my next step once I fix the cracking on the mortar joints. It all happ
  11. Decided to do a stainless temp test run. I plan to move to CPM154 for a lot of my blades so the intended temp target of this oven is 1950-1975 f. But I was able to hit that temp no problem. I did get some cracking along some mortar joints but I already have a plan in mind to resolve those. The SSR got VERY WARM during this test fire. And that was with it sitting on about half an inch of 6x6 copper plates. the external surfaces of the oven got very warm as well, but not so warm you couldnt touch the oven. I only left it at this temp for about 30 minutes but
  12. Update. Got the back mortared up and the elements and thermocouple run. put a couple bricks in as a door, and took it up to 500 for the hour the mortar vendor recommends, then took it up to 750f because why not.
  13. I should probably get going on my designs as well, even though I have yet to make something for the KITH that ever turned out like the original plan. But I am a creature of fire and chaos, so change is just the game.
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