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Robert D.

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Robert D. last won the day on August 24 2016

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About Robert D.

  • Birthday 01/02/1981

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    Murray Utah

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  1. I have a file guide that would probably work great for getting the scales lined up for clamping, I have used it that way a couple times, but never on something that had a taper to it. Thanks for the suggestions everyone, I appreciate the help.
  2. ok, so what I was thinking of doing, which may or may not be a combination of the suggestions given, but is probably the easiest for me with my tooling is to do this. Drill the holes at full thickness, Harden and temper prepped blade, then temp glue the scales on and use spacers on the scale to where I can use a level to ensure flat on the tang surface and drill, rinse and repeat for the other side scales? Do I have the right idea with that? Honestly this makes sense to me I just was not sure I was going to be going about it the right way, and at the moment I cant afford to hose up a pair of scales so my other thought was to drill the smeg out of the handles and skeletonize them, but that is a TON of drilling and filing and I really dont want to go that route.
  3. Ok, so I have two large blade designs on hand, they will be made out of .250 thick 80CRV2 steel, and I want to give a go at doing tapered full tangs on them, but I have questions on the process to drill out the holes. Do you taper first and then drill the holes ( seems like the hole would NOT be straight if you did this ) or do you drill first and then taper ( which logically to me would make the hole going into the scales not straight. ) As these are LARGE blades ( 16+ inch OAL ) from very thick steel, I would like to cut down the weight as much as possible and going with a tapered tang seems like the perfect push to challenge myself with, I just dont know how to go about getting the holes to line up to where I dont trash a few pairs of scales before I get it right.
  4. That is some seriously cool work there, as others have said, the detail on that is impressive to say the least.
  5. my question is what do you plan to do to get a tang, as it looks like there is some grinding done behind the plunges. If you are going to forge the tang in, I second (or third or fourth ) the war knife idea, some bone or antler and bog would look pretty slick on that profile regardless of the pattern.
  6. I didnt think of using my drill press to punch the holes, part of my issue I think is that because I was using a hand punch not all of them went straight, as i did the belt loop first, then the outside after fold groove, then glued the welt and wet folded it together then glued and punched the rest of the welt and leg side of the sheath. Doing it in the drill press would ensure straighter punches.
  7. In the Navy we used to send new guys for 50 feet of gig line or left handed wire cutters and digital vacuum tubes. The SK's didnt like the AT's very much with how much time we wasted of theirs.
  8. Was the original deadline Sept 1st or 31st, I cant remember. I am all good with an extension, I should be finished before the end of this month, but I dont mind waiting as I just wanna see all the cool knives made.
  9. I took it to a 120g belt to even it up after stitching it up as I cut one side a little wider then the other. I still have to dye the welt and do some minor burnishing to it. I think my next project is going to be a kiradashi for leatherworking, my exacto blade crapped out on me and the only thing I had handy to finish the cuts was my Kershaw folder.
  10. My girl would stab me with it and tell me it was my fault if I tried to sell something like that before she had one.... Its stunning.
  11. Simple and gorgeous.... You really have those nailed down.
  12. So I jumped in again feet first and spent some time working on leather again. I would say that this one turned out a LOT better then my first. This time I used actual leather dye, and not some colored polishing compound. On the outer facing side, I think I did pretty good, only issue is that there is a faint imprinting from the plastic cutting board I used as a clean work area. On the back side however I had a very hard time getting smooth curves on my belt loop area, and grooving the back side for the stitching was a royal pain in the neck. For my next one, I think I am going to only cut one side to proper dimensions along with the welt. Glue the welt to the finished side, and then soak and fold it and then glue it up totally before doing any grooving or punching so I can make sure I get everything lined up just right. Might mean a waste of some leather, but I want to do some stacked leather handles in the future anyways, so having cut offs will be a benefit. Any suggestions on getting smooth curve cuts in leather?
  13. I got a bench grinder for my first tool, It can be done, but as mentioned above, there is a lot more cleanup then doing it by files or with a belt grinder. However, they do work pretty well for profiling a bar into a blade if stock removal is where you are looking to go.
  14. I started with a crappy Harbor Freight 1x30 belt grinder, and while it worked, it didnt work WELL. Then I bought my Grizzly and the difference was night and day. But I have also busted out the filing jig and beveled a whole blade with just files. On unhardened steel a file will remove material a LOT faster then one would think.
  15. I need a new drill press, one of my current challenges, is the way the work table mounts and moves, its one of the cheapo harbor freight models so the work table surface has a slight tilt to the front side of it. Which means I spend more time with a level and shims under my press vise then I do actually drilling on it. Took me about 2 hours to get each scale of my KITH friction folder trued up so the holes were straight. At least my Grizzly has done me no wrongs yet...
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