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Robert D.

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Everything posted by Robert D.

  1. So here is some pics, in the one where it is warped, I did that intentionally before taking the pic of it. And then bent it back to true. And then a few shots showing the thickness of the spine and hopefully a clear enough shot showing how thin the core bar is in this. Gah, sorry, none of the spine shots are clear, I should have grabbed measurements but I was in a rush at home on a lunch break taking care of a sick wife and kid and only had a couple minutes of free time to grab shots.
  2. I got it from Maker Material Supply. Seemed very well made. And the bar itself was .137 when I got it, and its forged down quite a bit from that thickness, I would say its about half that now, the core bar was very thin to start off with. And once I noticed it flexed and stuck, I was able to easily counterbend it back to straight and then immediately retested it with a file and was confused that it skated still. The other few times I have done a sanmai it was always with 15N20 for the outer layers so the whole blade hardened.
  3. So I bought a slab of pre forgewelded White paper #2 ( mild outer jackets ) san mai billet and forged a blade from it. Used my tempsticks during the hardening process at around 1475 - 1500 f on the heat and held it for about 5 minutes and quenched into oil. It skated the file just fine so I tempered it at 400f for 2 hours x3 times. And then started the post ht grinding and hand sanding when I noticed something odd. It still skates my Nicholson file, and my cheap needle files, but if you flex the blade, it will hold the bend. I have it at finished ground thickness so I am terrified to re harden it. Am what I am seeing normal for a blade with non hardening outer layers, There does appear to be some carbon migration into the mild outer layers but I cant imagine that I did enough damage to the core steel with heat that I lost all the carbon in it. Am what I am seeing normal, or did I hose this piece up? I dont have pics at the moment as I am work, but I can get some up of it later today.
  4. You really have some skill with that style of knife, Every one you post is a standout example of what to aspire to. I would be lying if I said I wasnt slightly jealous of your results.
  5. For one of their wives? Is he by chance from southern Utah? Sorry, I couldnt help it, normally I am the one fending off the polygamy jokes being from Utah. I like the chopper, I need to make one of those since I have 3 kids who love chopped veggies...
  6. So this was a first attempt, I see on Instagram that this type of knife is very popular so I wanted to take a crack at making one. its O1 tool steel with dyed and treated leather for a spacer and then gutted paracord for the crossover wrap and non gutted for the turks head knot. There are a few things I would do different with this one, the handle is a bit short, even for me, someone with larger hands would consider this a 3 finger type knife, and I narrowed the tang out a bit more then I should have considering I used gutted paracord for the main wrap portion so there is a thickness difference between the blade and the handle, but all in all I really like how it turned out, its nice and light in the hand, and falls perfectly into a reverse grip and feels like it was made to be used that way.
  7. I had a blade I did lacewood on for a handle, and I hated how it turned out once I shaped it, but after sanding it up to 2000g and then doing a CA treatment on it it grew on me. the pattern in the block just didnt match the finished shape, but with a high gloss finish it grew on me. I wish my kitchen knives looked half as good as that one, I actually like how there is a difference in the grain on it along the handle, gives it some unique character that even if you tried you could likely never reproduce.
  8. I like it, You guys are far more ambitious then I am for the KITH, mine is a simple friction folder.
  9. I like this very much. but man that handle... I love that Yew, I need to get me some of that...
  10. Just be careful with the Buffers, They are one of if not the most dangerous tools in the shop. If the wheel catches the blade right it will whip it around and bury it into your chest. I refer to mine as the whirling mess of death and never use it when home alone just because of the risks of using it. Blades look great, just be careful with those spinning machines of dooooom.....
  11. Yeah, I do need to get me some actual fast quench oil one of these days coming up. Right now I am just using Canola oil. I spent a good couple hours at work yesterday watching some youtube videos of people doing interrupted quenches on W2 and already had the blade clayed up at home so I just decided " well why the hell not, I will give it a try " so I did. I bought 4 bars of W2 my last steel order because at the moment I am having a heck of a time getting my propane forge up to welding temps so I am putting a hold on doing any damascus attemps till I can figure out if I need a blown burner or just need to tweak my current one for better performance. My charcoal forge gets WELL beyond hot enough to weld in I just dont like having to haul my anvil and such tooling outside to it. Here in Salt Lake City, the altitude is pretty high ( around 4300 feet above sea level ) and I read that non blown burners have issues getting to welding temps at higher elevations, but I dont know if I fall into that category. So for now I am going to focus on getting good hamons.
  12. So I finally worked up the courage ( or stupidity ) today to give an interrupted quench a try in my attempts to master the hamon.... and it failed spectacularly, cracks all along the edge. Two things I notice in them. They follow the lower portions of the clay pretty regularly. And they dont go beyond where the clay was. I didnt get an accurate official measurement on the edge, but it is ever so slightly thicker then a dime along the entire edge. I should add that I fully expected this result since this was my first attempt. fully normalized it, and used my tempsticks and caught it right at the 1425-1450 range for temps. Water was just plain water at around 140d and oil was around a similar temp ( used my girlfriends cooking thermometer to test ) and as you can see I cracked the ever loving crap out of this blade. I am still tempering this blade, and will spend a bit of time sanding it to see what might have been had it not cracked. The goal is to make a hamon I can be proud of, and I have enough W2 from Aldo that I can afford to break / crack a few eggs in the process.... I will give it another shot in the near future, nailing a hamon process is on my short list of things to do. But everyone has to start somewhere and break a few things in the process to get there...
  13. ok, then I am at a loss on how you did it so cleanly.... Please tell us, inquiring minds want to know....
  14. I should add, I was referring to 5160 from Admiral....
  15. I think Admiral steel ships internationally, they have a good rate on it.
  16. Im going to take a guess, which may be totally incorrect. The feather part, was part bar steel, and part powdered steel welded in a canister and then split and rewelded. Regardless of how you made it, that is one SWEET blade, I love the simplicity of the center with the chaos of the outer bars.
  17. As I was sanding the handle I kept telling myself I should have went with Ebony instead because I was not liking the way it was turning out, but I decided to try the CA glue anyways just to see how it would turn out. I had a similar issue with a Lacewood handle I did on another knife that i did the CA glue trick on and I went from not liking it to loving it and deciding to possibly keep the knife for myself I liked it so much. But alas, I need money so I will have to sell this one.
  18. I sanded it up to 1200g and then and then coated it in CA glue and then sanded it off. even at higher grits it still had some pitting to it that I was not a fan of.
  19. Been working on this one for a while, I probably reetched it and polished it enough to finish 6 blades. W2 steel ( Aldo's ) with peened brass bolsters and Black Palm scales with Brass pins. As you can see I got a bit of cleanup to do on the blade as it did get a bit of gunk under the tape while I was working on the handle then I am going to buff the handle and bolsters and sharpen this one up and give it a whirl.
  20. The girlfriend and I just had a quick discussion on the topic of selling our home and upgrading, and she is the one who suggested that our next house needs to have room for me to have the tooling I want like a press and a powerhammer.... Dang it Gary you are making it very hard on me right now not selling my house and dropping part of the profits on a power hammer.... I cant wait to see where you go with this, keep up the outstanding work sir....
  21. I goofed the design during the paper mock up phase, which is why it has two stop pins, however since the goal was to go with hidden pins in the handle, I am thinking 2 pins might actually be more structurally sound then just one as my plan is to very VERY carefully epoxy them into place during final assembly. Also still trying to decide between peening or using a pivot pin and screws, have both on hand I just dont know which one I want to try yet.
  22. So this is the knife I decided to do for the KITH. Its no where near as intricate as Brian's slipjoint by any means, but I am going to try my dangest to push on hamon development on this one so that it is worthy. W2 steel, Surinam Ironwood for the handle scales with stainless liners. I am going to place teflon spacers on it because the action on it causes scratches to the flats of the blade. Got a few other blades made from the same stock that I am going to heat treat this weekend so I can pick a hamon process I want to use for this one. It will have fully hidden pins other then the pivot pin. I made it a lot further into the making process before I started taking pics so there really isnt a WIP to this, but as it sits now I can at least show the process I take to finish it up. I actually have 4 of these in progress right now, this one just seemed the best fit for the KITH.
  23. One option I can suggest is leaf springs, hit up a wrecking yard and get a bundle, that is PLENTY of steel to play with. And will probably cost you less then a bar of good steel to get.
  24. I got my start with leaf springs which I have an unlimited supply of ( My family is BIG into drag racing ) and I still use them to this day for learning new forging processes I dont want to screw up my " Good Steel " with. Scrap steel has its uses...
  25. Very VERY nice, I love how it looks simple on first glance but then the classy jumps out at you.
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