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Robert D.

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Everything posted by Robert D.

  1. Robert D.

    My Humble Beginnings:

    Anyone else surprised that the Great Gary didnt get his start doing mosaics? My first knife is sitting in my dads gunsafe, Once I hit 100 knives I am going to take that knife and compare it to my first and see how far I have gone. I think I am currently at like 27 or 28 finished blades.
  2. Robert D.

    A pair of kitchen blades(pic heavy)

    I really like both of those, the blades are great, but those handles and bolsters are outstanding.
  3. Robert D.


    I think I just figured out what my issue might be with my propane forge. Its a very small forge, venturi style burner with firebricks front and back to cover the openings. So I started reading https://ronreil.abana.org/troubleshooting.shtml And I noticed where he says that one of the most common issues with propane forge welding is backpressure, I have two full bricks flush on the back blocking it entirely, and only keeping a small gap about the width of the handle between the bricks in the front. So now I plan to go home and finish slotting my bricks for work placement and then perhaps I may fire the badboy up and give it another go.
  4. Robert D.


    Well, Both of my attempts failed. odd thing is when I pulled the billets apart, they were nice and clean still. So I think my Propane forge just wasnt hot enough, it was in the mid to high orange range, One billet was 15N20 and W2, and the other was 15N20 and 1084. Thankfully I didnt try to force them to weld by hitting them stupid hard, so they are both still nice and straight and clean, so its just a matter of cleaning up the mating surfaces and giving it another go. But now I have to figure out why my propane forge isnt getting hot enough.
  5. Robert D.

    Hydraulic Press Build W I P

    I thought as much, but with 22 tons of pressure being used, its always best to double check.
  6. Robert D.

    Hydraulic Press Build W I P

    It might just be the light or the angle. but it looks like the left side of the support isnt flat like the right side.
  7. Robert D.

    6" chef

    Not exactly. basically you toss on a rubber glove, and rub superglue on the handle till you build up a bit of it, then sand it with high grit paper ( 1200+ ) and then buff.... both of these blades have that process done to them.
  8. Robert D.

    6" chef

    I did a blade with Lacewood a bit ago, Initially I was quite disappointed in it, then I resanded it up to 1200g and then did a CA glue treatment to it, and now its gorgeous and I dont want to give it up. Great looking blade man.
  9. Robert D.


    I just finished relining my propane forge, and plan to give this process a try this weekend, I have two completely full bottles of propane and two completely prepped billets ready to go for this test. I am going to try one with Kerosene and one with WD40, just to try both out and to see if there is any adverse reaction to my forge lining ( ITC100 and Satanite ) because having the forge down for days is a drag.
  10. Robert D.

    Hydrollic Press Time

    I contemplated building something similar at one point, but decided against it for the simple fact that my welding skills are less then stellar. But one thing I noticed when reading that thread was that overbuilding it as much as possible was a good thing. 20 tons of pressure is a lot more then is needed to send even a square billet through a wall or a person when something designed to restrain the pressure gives.
  11. Robert D.

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    Muscle memory IS important, repetitive motions get more precise as you practice them on a regular basis. The martial art of Taijiquan is one good example. Two very telling instances of this, are the people that can flip a balisong or the people that can spin a pair of nunchucks or a rope dart like Bruce Lee... In my younger and stupider days as a squid, I would get half way smashed, and then bet drinks on if I could spin a pair of nunchucks without hitting myself, The moment they fell into my hands my hands knew exactly what to do, and I won that bet probably 98% of the time. Granted it took me about 12 years of at least an hour a days practice to get to that point, but even now 15 years after being stupid, you put a pair of nunchucks in my hand and I can spin them like I did back then and I might pick them up two or three times a year now if that. Others have said do your grinding practice on flat mild / unknown steel, and I would agree with that, Gerhard has a point, slap a belt on, and throw a couple bevels on some mild steel first to settle your nerves and get your hands in check and then take your good steel for a dance with the grinder.
  12. Robert D.

    New to Knife Making

    I used my 1x30 from HF for about 3 years to grind my blades, Its not as fast as the guys on YouTube with the 2x72's but it certainly can do the job. I still use my 1x30 for a lot of the handle grinding and shaping. And I second the part about files, you can remove quite a lot of material from a knife blade with a good file. There is a video by Gough custom knives where he shows how to build a simple jig for beveling a blade, with a couple minor tweaks and a good file you can bevel a blade much faster then you think with that jig.
  13. Robert D.

    EDC stock removal project -WIP-

    Ok, so its a pretty cool trick. Grab a drill bit that is the same size as the thickness of your stock and lay it on a flat surface, take a sharpie to the edge of your blade, then drag the knife along the tip of the drill bit on its flat side, do this on both sides, and it will leave you a nice even set of lines that basically gets you to the " like a dime " thickness you want to grind your blades to pre heat treat.
  14. Robert D.

    EDC stock removal project -WIP-

    Have you seen the drill bit trick to mark your center lines down the edge? As others suggested on the other post, I would mark your centerline down the edge, and then grind at very hard ( like 45 deg ) angle down to your marked line, and then pull your grind higher up the blade by slowly adjusting the angle you hold the blade down to the belt. Freehand grinding is an Art, and it certainly takes practice, I am horrible at it, and I still use jigs on my tool rest to set things up and I dont go to freehand mode till my bevel is fully established and I am moving to the higher grit belts.
  15. Robert D.

    Hussar sabre. Yes, another classic :)

    The saber is awesome, but I am quite curious on the sand in the pipes part. When you say bent them hot, are we talking like a dull red heat, or a bladesteel hot where there might be melted sand left over in them after the fact. And are you closing the ends to ensure that the sand does not escape and then reopening them somehow after the bend is made?
  16. Robert D.

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    Yeah, those ceramic 36 grit belts really do remove metal like no other....
  17. Ok, so I have spent the last like 6 months reading about setting up a propane forge, I bought the satanite, I got the ITC 100. My forge came lined with 1 inch Kaowool. I layered the satanite 1/4th inch thick and I even did a second coat of ITC 100 on it. If I am looking to forge, but not forge weld, those recommendations seem to be perfect, however as you can see I have a serious eat thru issue, I tried ONE billet today, and my lining is toast after just one billet.. I know that you guys that are forge welding complex billets are not relining your forge after every one, that would NOT be cost effective or time effective to say the least. So there must be some sort of mojo I am missing. I should add, that the photo is AFTER i pulled my firebrick out, It started to sag so I killed the gas to the forge and pulled it out and thats when I noticed this fun little issue. I have already ordered another roll of Kaowool, but I am curious, can I just patch this up with some really thick satanite and go back to using it? And I will say at this point, I am done with forge welding in this for the time being, I am not comfortable with fluxless welding, and it would seem that fluxed welding is a VERY bad idea when it comes to propane forges, I think I might actually just build me a kiln brick forge to use exclusively for forge welding because I am NOT relining my forge every couple of billets... and I am sick of getting mixed results in charcoal...
  18. Robert D.

    Propane forges and Forge welding.

    I am going to do one more thin coat of satanite on it tonight and burn it in, and then I am going to do a light coat of ITC on it just on the bottom just to make sure, The next project I need to do is a forge weld project and I am already behind schedule on it. however I am going to give fluxless welding a go with it using kerosene, its a san mai project so its not like ill be doing multiple welds on it.
  19. Robert D.

    Propane forges and Forge welding.

    Just did my first bake in on it, and since its kind of dim in my garage this late in the evening I figured I would get a couple pics of the flame. I would have to say this is probably running at around 10-15psi. Air is fully open yet im getting flames out the front. I am guessing I am probably somewhere in the neutral range? Or am I a clueless newb with propane forges.
  20. Robert D.

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    I believe the ones you ordered are the same ones that come in the Shredder set, its 36/60/80/120g. If they are red then chances are good you ordered the same ones I have. When I got my grizzly, I ordered belts from Grizzly, and I was " less than impressed " with the performance of them. So I bit the bullet and got the shredder kit from Combat Abrasives. I have been sitting on it for a while ( I have been in full time dad mode to my 11 month old son due to injuries my girlfriend received in a car accident ) so I finally busted them out, and I am way more then impressed on the performance getting stuff profiled out, As I said before with how fast they remove material I am actually scared to try and bevel a blade with them.
  21. Robert D.

    ~W I P~ First Stock Removal Knife Project

    Depending on your grinder. You might want to look into the shredder set from Combat Abrasives. I just took my first Ceramic 36g belt for a spin and HOLY cow does that thing profile a blade. I profiled 3 blades in half the time a normal belt would have profiled one and the belt is still cutting like its brand new. I wont lie I am a bit scared to try grinding my bevels with one because of how fast they remove material. and another option to reduce the thickness of your steel if you are not wanting to forge this one ( as you said, its a stock removal project ) would be to draw file it. With a good file you could thin the blade out in reasonable time that way.
  22. Robert D.

    Working on a Potpourri of Styles

    I like the shape of that Kukri, I have been meaning to give one of those a try so I am looking forward to see how yours turns out so I can hopefully get some ideas on how I want to go about my own... And that pocket bowie looks like its off to a great start.
  23. Robert D.


    Considering the news headlines that I have seen in my life from that part of the world, I guess it would make sense to limit weapons in a sense.
  24. Robert D.


    I can see the whole " You have no reason to carry a knife " logic in places like London, where the scariest thing you will encounter is a drunken soccer fan stumbling home from a pub.... But it kind of blows my mind that there is such a restriction in African countries, I mean you guys have LIONS just cruising around in some parts... Granted I have never been to Africa ( but I want too ) but I would imagine that the chances of an encounter with dangerous wildlife is significantly higher in your neck of the woods then in mine, and we have at least 2 Cougars found deep in the city every year.
  25. Robert D.

    Canister alternative or hacks?

    yeah, better then anything you could get at harbor freight for sure.