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Robert D.

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Everything posted by Robert D.

  1. On my old coal\charcoal forge, if i didnt aim for a 6 or so inch deep fire i had to micromanage my forge. Just like with steel, your better off with more fire then you need then less...
  2. Geoff has my intent in mind.... The woman im eventually making this ring for, has been the one who got away for 20 years ago, right now she is asleep in my bed. Im going to make many things for her, whatever she wants, last year i made 5 blades with hamons for her family for christmas right now its just a concept of passion, not profit.
  3. ive been doing basic research, so honestly at this point one or all materials may change.
  4. Part of this billet is meant to prototype my future wifes wedding ring... Going to make the real one with probably white and rose gold, but that stuff is expensive so i want to play with cheaper stuff. Im probably going to cut like a whole side off ( longways, like .250 x .250 x 4 inches ) and twist it. The rest, im not sure, was actually just thinking pick a pattern, throw the rest together and sell it as is to other makers.
  5. Ok, so i didnt think this would work, but it did. So now im looking for ideas. This started off as a stack of i think 32 layers of thin stock brass and copper. Wrapped in stainless foil under compression. Heated in my heat treat oven for about 6 hours, i think I did it about 1-3 deg below the full melt point of brass. Then pulled out and hammered on. Today I forge heated it and worked it down about half its original thickness. was thinking doing ladder because then i can draw longer as a plan and as part of the process.
  6. Ohhh I TOTALLY have a couple ideas for this. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Jaron Martindale 3. Geoff Keyes 4. Aiden Carley-Clopton 5. Brian Dougherty 6. Eric Morgan 7. Don Abbott 8. Doug Webster 9. Alan Longmire 10. Ted Stocksdale 11. Chiyo Razi 12. Joshua States 13. Bruno 14. Robert D
  7. So its been about a year or so since I have been active here, I blame life. I decided to get back into things in a BIG way, in that I decided to forge a sword'ish type thing. My new girlfriend is a huge fan of the pirates movies so its going to be very pirate'ish in the end since its hers. 80CRV2 steel , started off as a 14 inch bar of 1.25 x .250 , now its about 3/16th thick at its thickest point and is about 19 inches from shoulder to tip. I am going to channel it and weld a threaded rod as my girlfriend wants a fancy handguard and pommel nut. Pic one is at the end of the first day, took about 4 hours ( Reference bar is 14 inch W2, those pics are coming soon ) but went full preform on the first day. And then here it is after day two, Never done anything this big before, its a little wonky, i need to heat it and straighten it a bit, but its way better then I thought it would turn out. Im considering figuring out a fuller tool for it, we will see once I get it cleaned up and grinding started.
  8. I am going with a steel sheet clading just to satisfy my kid sister, whos basement and garage I currently reside in ( TLDR: I ended a relationship and am in the rebuild process ) so regardless of the reasons, that is why mine will have a stainless steel exterior.
  9. I actually got stuck on it for a bit ( IRL stuffs ) so its still sitting, but I should have it done completely this weekend, Door is built and just needs to be attached and then the whole thing wrapped in sheet steel and its done. doing it in 110v is not hard Brian, its just a matter of figuring out what your final amp numbers are and the building the coil to fit inside that amp restriction.
  10. I second the reflection pic, thats awesome....
  11. for those, I have been contemplating a coffin handled bowie ( ala Gary Mulkey style ) with a frame handle on a hidden tang, but my qualm is do I break down and tune my venturi forge for welding ( had it 3 years and have NEVER been able to weld in it ) or do I just forge out a blade in W2 and go with a hamon on it. sometimes you have a blade that you want the handle work to do the blade justice, and sometimes you have handle scales that you hope you can make a blade that does them justice. I totally get where Geoff is coming from asking this, its something I myself fight myself on constantly.
  12. Also, The Combat Abrasives Shredder pack should have come with a tube of semi solid goop which is a belt lubricant. Are you using that, I have found that with the low grits ( 36 specifically ) it helps a ton. I bought my shredder pack a year ago, and am still using my first 36g belt with that stuff and it still cuts like it was brand new. But I only use 36g for profiling, the scratches from 36g on a bevel take AGES to hand sand out.
  13. I agree with Brian, 500 seems a bit steep for that, And the energy cost to use it on blades will be excessive to say the least. I mean will it work, Yes, most pottery kilns get up to and past the temps needed to HT a stainless blade, ( If I recall my HS pottery correctly, some porcelain fires at cone 7-8 which is 2100+ f ) but there is a LOT of wasted space in that if its not modular and you can pull sections off. If I recall correctly, you are in Northern Utah, If you do pick it up, I would be interested to take it off your hands to use as a Pottery Kiln and would be more then happy to help you build a HT oven in addition to paying you for the investment on picking it up. I am actually in the process of building one right now infact.
  14. I am having a similar issue right now, I bought a set of VERY beautiful Ironwood scales and now that I have them and am looking at them all I can think of is " Im not worthy" Mono steel seems plain for them, but I dont want to do something that causes the blade and the handle to compete for the viewers eyes. Pics momentarily.
  15. ill have to look into it, I have the Fotek SSR ( i think thats what its named, Bought it a year ago and sat on it ) but I have a couple VERY large CPU heatsinks sitting in storage that I plan to use to cool this, Benefits of your main IRL job being IT and performance PC building being your primary passion is that you have old hardware laying about that is perfect for your new attempts. I bought a roll of roofing flashing ( basically a roll of thin stainless steel ) that is long enough to wrap the whole thing, which is my next step once I fix the cracking on the mortar joints. It all happened on the right side of the oven, Right side wall basically pulled away from the roof/floor of the oven. But I was already planning on drilling a couple holes in the thing all the way around and seating steel pins in place using some high temp epoxy putty I have used in the past ( had to fix a shifter cable on my Beretta, which basically rests on the exhaust manifold ) and should be fine for the temps I will be pushing this thing too. but now that I know I can hit the right temps, I wont be doing any more firings of it till I get it completed, I am building it in the same area that my computers are all in and I had to kill power to all three of my desktops and my server in order to run the test ( I am typing this on my mini Inspiron 11 pocket sized laptop ) because any temp over 400 caused it to trip the breaker if the computers were on. Considering I have 10 bricks left I am considering building a smaller one to set on top of the current one, with the goal being just Mokume, I could just buy another thermocouple, and then put the elements on plugs and swap the control box between the two, my teenage passion of RC cars and planes is coming back with a score to settle it would seem. As thats how I handled having multiple toys but only one controller for each type.
  16. Decided to do a stainless temp test run. I plan to move to CPM154 for a lot of my blades so the intended temp target of this oven is 1950-1975 f. But I was able to hit that temp no problem. I did get some cracking along some mortar joints but I already have a plan in mind to resolve those. The SSR got VERY WARM during this test fire. And that was with it sitting on about half an inch of 6x6 copper plates. the external surfaces of the oven got very warm as well, but not so warm you couldnt touch the oven. I only left it at this temp for about 30 minutes but even without a good seal on the door area it was able to hold it very consistently.
  17. Update. Got the back mortared up and the elements and thermocouple run. put a couple bricks in as a door, and took it up to 500 for the hour the mortar vendor recommends, then took it up to 750f because why not.
  18. I should probably get going on my designs as well, even though I have yet to make something for the KITH that ever turned out like the original plan. But I am a creature of fire and chaos, so change is just the game.
  19. So I meant to update this, but then real life got in the way as I made progress on it during the week. Winding the coils was a pain ( I screwed two up before I got two that were good ) and I didnt get any pics of that process. But here are the coils in the channels before final assembly ( I dont have a welder, so its all mortared together ) And then mortaring the base and ceiling in place on one side. And fully mortared. It sat like this for about 3 days because my IRL job got in the way. But I decided come hell or highwater I was getting some progress done tonight. Wiring it all up was actually a lot faster then I thought it would be, so I was able to fire it up. even with both ends open it heated to 200c ( Default setting, need to configure it still for Murican ) and held it within 2deg for 5 minutes just fine. So i kicked it up to 300 just to see how fast it would go up and it only took about 20 seconds to go from 200c to 250c. Just to give an idea, its only about 60-70% complete, still need to do the back and the door, put the shell on and build a box for my wiring. Even at these low temps the SSR got VERY warm so my next step is to figure out which computer I have in storage is donating its hardcore massive overclocker heatsink to keep my SSR cool. This as been fun, sitting on a stack of blades right now that are going to get used as tests, some O1, W2 and a big ole 80crv2 chopper.
  20. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Cory LA 3. Conner Michaux 4. billyO 5. Ted Stocksdale 6. Geoff Keyes 7. Brian Dougherty 8. Pieter-Paul Derks 9. Robert Dowse
  21. Correct me if my math is wrong. 3x1.25x.250 = .9 cubic inch right? If so I dont even need to order new stock, have plenty of W2 on hand.
  22. Ive made a couple blades where the edge was thinner then a dime prior to heat treat and still had little to no warping. Lucky I guess. But everything Alan said is pretty much exactly what you want to do.
  23. Welcome to the madness.... considering all the wonderful advice you have already been given regarding forges and tools and toys and fun, one additional item I know helped me out a ton when I first started is this. Infact I still use this process any time I am trying to figure out how I am going to grind something I have never ground before ( like false edges on a harpoon point ) or working with very thin material that I will hose up on my belt grinder.
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