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Robert D.

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Everything posted by Robert D.

  1. I am going with a steel sheet clading just to satisfy my kid sister, whos basement and garage I currently reside in ( TLDR: I ended a relationship and am in the rebuild process ) so regardless of the reasons, that is why mine will have a stainless steel exterior.
  2. I actually got stuck on it for a bit ( IRL stuffs ) so its still sitting, but I should have it done completely this weekend, Door is built and just needs to be attached and then the whole thing wrapped in sheet steel and its done. doing it in 110v is not hard Brian, its just a matter of figuring out what your final amp numbers are and the building the coil to fit inside that amp restriction.
  3. I second the reflection pic, thats awesome....
  4. for those, I have been contemplating a coffin handled bowie ( ala Gary Mulkey style ) with a frame handle on a hidden tang, but my qualm is do I break down and tune my venturi forge for welding ( had it 3 years and have NEVER been able to weld in it ) or do I just forge out a blade in W2 and go with a hamon on it. sometimes you have a blade that you want the handle work to do the blade justice, and sometimes you have handle scales that you hope you can make a blade that does them justice. I totally get where Geoff is coming from asking this, its something I myself fight myself o
  5. Also, The Combat Abrasives Shredder pack should have come with a tube of semi solid goop which is a belt lubricant. Are you using that, I have found that with the low grits ( 36 specifically ) it helps a ton. I bought my shredder pack a year ago, and am still using my first 36g belt with that stuff and it still cuts like it was brand new. But I only use 36g for profiling, the scratches from 36g on a bevel take AGES to hand sand out.
  6. I agree with Brian, 500 seems a bit steep for that, And the energy cost to use it on blades will be excessive to say the least. I mean will it work, Yes, most pottery kilns get up to and past the temps needed to HT a stainless blade, ( If I recall my HS pottery correctly, some porcelain fires at cone 7-8 which is 2100+ f ) but there is a LOT of wasted space in that if its not modular and you can pull sections off. If I recall correctly, you are in Northern Utah, If you do pick it up, I would be interested to take it off your hands to use as a Pottery Kiln and would be more then hap
  7. I am having a similar issue right now, I bought a set of VERY beautiful Ironwood scales and now that I have them and am looking at them all I can think of is " Im not worthy" Mono steel seems plain for them, but I dont want to do something that causes the blade and the handle to compete for the viewers eyes. Pics momentarily.
  8. ill have to look into it, I have the Fotek SSR ( i think thats what its named, Bought it a year ago and sat on it ) but I have a couple VERY large CPU heatsinks sitting in storage that I plan to use to cool this, Benefits of your main IRL job being IT and performance PC building being your primary passion is that you have old hardware laying about that is perfect for your new attempts. I bought a roll of roofing flashing ( basically a roll of thin stainless steel ) that is long enough to wrap the whole thing, which is my next step once I fix the cracking on the mortar joints. It all happ
  9. Decided to do a stainless temp test run. I plan to move to CPM154 for a lot of my blades so the intended temp target of this oven is 1950-1975 f. But I was able to hit that temp no problem. I did get some cracking along some mortar joints but I already have a plan in mind to resolve those. The SSR got VERY WARM during this test fire. And that was with it sitting on about half an inch of 6x6 copper plates. the external surfaces of the oven got very warm as well, but not so warm you couldnt touch the oven. I only left it at this temp for about 30 minutes but
  10. Update. Got the back mortared up and the elements and thermocouple run. put a couple bricks in as a door, and took it up to 500 for the hour the mortar vendor recommends, then took it up to 750f because why not.
  11. I should probably get going on my designs as well, even though I have yet to make something for the KITH that ever turned out like the original plan. But I am a creature of fire and chaos, so change is just the game.
  12. So I meant to update this, but then real life got in the way as I made progress on it during the week. Winding the coils was a pain ( I screwed two up before I got two that were good ) and I didnt get any pics of that process. But here are the coils in the channels before final assembly ( I dont have a welder, so its all mortared together ) And then mortaring the base and ceiling in place on one side. And fully mortared. It sat like this for about 3 days because my IRL job got in the way. But I decid
  13. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Cory LA 3. Conner Michaux 4. billyO 5. Ted Stocksdale 6. Geoff Keyes 7. Brian Dougherty 8. Pieter-Paul Derks 9. Robert Dowse
  14. Correct me if my math is wrong. 3x1.25x.250 = .9 cubic inch right? If so I dont even need to order new stock, have plenty of W2 on hand.
  15. Ive made a couple blades where the edge was thinner then a dime prior to heat treat and still had little to no warping. Lucky I guess. But everything Alan said is pretty much exactly what you want to do.
  16. Welcome to the madness.... considering all the wonderful advice you have already been given regarding forges and tools and toys and fun, one additional item I know helped me out a ton when I first started is this. Infact I still use this process any time I am trying to figure out how I am going to grind something I have never ground before ( like false edges on a harpoon point ) or working with very thin material that I will hose up on my belt grinder.
  17. Using 3/16th round rod to wind my elements, ground a flat spot into the end of it and then drilled a hole so I can chuck it up in my hand drill for the winding process. Using 18g Kanthal A1 wire, According to my ( I cheated, The blog post has a xls calc worksheet ) calculations I need 33.29 feet per coil to get a functional oven. Streched length will be just under 3 feet long which is just a hair over the length of the channel I have in my sidewalls. Just waiting for my trusty cordless drill to charge now to do the Elements.
  18. Forgot to snap a pic of the other side. But element channels are in, each brick in my shipment came individually bubble wrapped with a card taped on top warning of the dangers of the dust from these things, So I finally used my Employee discount and grabbed myself a 6300 half mask and multiple pairs of P100 multigas/vapor carts. Working for 3M has more benefits then just abrasives. Going to get started on my elements shortly, Gotta cut my round stock down so I can make a jig for that next.
  19. Like many others who started out, I started out with the basic gear, A cheap Harbor Freight ASO, some crappy files, and a 1x30 Grinder, Did all of my heat treat by eye in my Charcoal forge. I have upgraded a lot of my tools since starting out, But the one process I have not been able to upgrade was the heat treatment process. Sure I went from Charcoal to Propane, but I still lacked the temp control and stability of an electric oven. Till now.... Short of taking up knifemaking as a whole, this is the most ambitious project I have ever attempted. I am by no means an electrical
  20. The top part of the spring sits just a hair below the liner when fully closed? I am actively considering starting one of these just to have a go at trying to do one.
  21. I have been wanting to do a double edge blade for a while now, but the idea of trying to keep it centered while grinding scared the crap out of me. I infact considered doing this using a file jig for the first couple to get a feel for it. But the other day I decided to just go for it. The little one had been profiled and just sitting on my desk taunting me for over a year, I ground out the profile on the larger one so if I screwed up the small one I could try again. Ground the little one first, used my grinding jig to get down to the centerline on all sides, and then free hand grou
  22. I have the LMS ( Little Machine Shop ) 3990 hightorque. Not a bad little machine to say the least. I have used it so far to mill channels in full tang handles for weight reduction ( pre harden ) and for slotting a guards and whatnot. I doubt in knifemaking I will ever reach a point where I will overtax the machine in any way since I bought it to move to folders and get more precision then my old HF drill press could offer.
  23. I like the " Design by committee " option. The idea of using specific mass of steel to make the blade is a good one as well.
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