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Aiden CC

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Aiden CC last won the day on April 8 2018

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About Aiden CC

  • Birthday 04/01/1998

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  1. Aiden CC

    Drilling Question

    Also, is it forged or stock removal? I've had trouble in the past drilling forged steel. I decided to make some test coupons (forged 5160), and found that samples which were forged and then left to cool in air were essentially being quenched from contact with the anvil (with bainite and martensite showing up in the microstructure). You can solve this by normalizing all of your knives a few times after all forging (heat up then cool in air, though for some steels like O1, air is too fast if the blade is thin). You can also temper knives after you forge them. I've used a torch to heat the blade until I get a sky-blue color in the area I want to drill. This isn't as easy on drill bits, but it works in a pinch and doesn't form scale on your piece. Hope this helps!
  2. Aiden CC

    Origin of the "Modern" Puukko?

    It's hard to tell with the rust on the blade, but I think it was originally beveled all the way on both sides and a pseudo plunge cut was formed from sharpening. Both sides have the effect, but in slightly different places.
  3. Aiden CC

    Source With Lots of Pictures of Old Swedish/Sami Knives

    It seems like the parts of fit and finish people focused on were different. In these examples it seems like the handles/sheaths received a lot more attention than the blades (though that could just be from rust/resharpening). I like making knives like this too, but there are some cases where I will take some license and clean things up to my own personal standards, mostly relating to blade finish. Its interesting looking at the originals because you notice some ways the ones people make are different now. One big thing is that essentially all of the blades have most or all of the forge scale removed, while leaving it on the flats of the blade appears to be modern. Additionally, the handles all have simple, relatively large shapes. Its hard to tell, but it also seems like the big knives are a bit thinner than the modern leukus a lot of people make, though that could be because these are from Sweden and I'm used to looking at Finnish leukus. Also, speaking of Finland, I found another site you can search for more picutres like this (although I found fewer results). Here is my search for "leuku," the Finnish word for a Sami stuorniibi ("big knife"). That one is pretty neat! It seems like getting that much antler in that big of a size and that good of quality would have been difficult (it certainly would be now), even for a reindeer herder. It might have multiple crowns in it, and some if it may be from moose, though I'm not sure. Those sheaths with a two part liner are really cool too.
  4. Aiden CC

    Source With Lots of Pictures of Old Swedish/Sami Knives

    Glad you found value in it! The originals lie on a wide range of function vs. ornamentation, with the two originals I'm lucky enough to have falling at different points of that spectrum: I've found that I'm most interested in the examples representing knives made to see use, I think I want to try making a larger knife with an all wood handle, since it seems like a decent number of the ones in this collection were built that way, which makes sense as it is hard to get pieces of antler that big from reindeer (I've seen examples where people used moose antler though).
  5. Since I haven't had much time for knives or access to many tools for a bit, I've been doing more research, and getting more interested in historical authenticity for my knife designs. When you go to make a knife in a certain style, it's easiest to modern pieces, which perpetuates a cycle and often leads to knives that don't look much like the originals. There's nothing wrong with this, and I have seen some modern takes on classic knives that are absolutely beautiful. However, I have recently been making my effort to base my work on originals when I make a historic style, which can prove tricky. I recently found this source here: https://digitaltmuseum.se/search/?aq=topic%3A"Lapska föremål %3A Personlig utrustning %3A Knivar"&o=0&n=560 which contains almost 200 pictures of old Scandinavian (many of them Sami) knives, so I thought I would share it here. A few of the pictures I liked: I also did a bit of poking around in a search of "knivar" from the website's home page, and it looks like you can find a wide variety of things, including some archaeological finds as well. Hopefully this is the right part of the forum for this, and that maybe someone else can get some use out of all the information that's there.
  6. Aiden CC

    heat treating ulu's made from saw blades

    Like Geoff mentioned, an asymmetric grind can contribute to warping in heat treat, and in some cases, it can be better to save the grinding until after. If you set them down on a surface to cool, that could have contributed to the warping, with the side on the surface cooling at different rate that the side in the air. Either clamping vertically in a vise or handing it by a wire through one of the holes could be a good way to let these cool. It looks like you could try to take some of the warp out in a tempering cycle if you could make jig to force a counter-bend and put it in the oven. As long as you don't overheat the edge, you could try more aggressively heating with a torch as well. If you go the rout of re-quenching, you could try clamping between two flat plates after coming out of the quench. I've done this for some Sakha style knives, which are concave on one side and convex on the other and love to warp. I quench, straighten by hand with welding gloves/a vise, then sandwich them between two pieces of 2x4 and stand on the top. Gives decent results and sometimes I don't have to do any correction in tempering/grinding. That approach might work for these as well.
  7. Aiden CC

    heat treating ulu's made from saw blades

    The most effective time to straighten is right when you pull the blade out of the oil, as the steel takes some time to fully harden (martensite formation), and is still ductile enough to bend gently in a vise or with thick gloves. After that, the best time is during a tempering cycle. I like to temper once at a low temperature (like 350 F) then clamp the blade to a piece of angle-iron with shims to bend it in the opposite direction as the warp. Then I temper again slightly higher (~25 degrees F), and often that is enough, especially for simple warps. If I can't get all of a warp out in one or two tempering cycles, I carefully heat spots along the spine until the oxides turn blue then counter bend it with a three point jig in a vise. The hotter you get the steel the easier it is to undo a warp, but the more hardness and strength you lose through tempering, which is key to keep in mind with these techniques.
  8. Aiden CC

    heat treating ulu's made from saw blades

    When you are working with thin steel, you’re going to have to deal with some amount of warping. I can only think of a couple of times I had a long (>6”), thin knife come out of the oil exactly how it went in. I found that using a larger container for my oil helped immensely (an old ammo can as opposed to a capped pipe), as it allowed for more even cooling. Another thing to note with thin knives is that they will move under their own weight for a brief period while the martensite is forming and they are still ductile (you can also gently straighten them in this phase). If you leave them to cool in a way that allows them to sag, warps can appear from out of nowhere. My philosophy with warping has been to learn how to both prevent and fix it, since sometimes it is almost unavoidable. Do you have any pictures of the warps? That might also help diagnose the problem. Hope this helps!
  9. Aiden CC

    Mechanical properties

    This is from a project I worked on a little while ago and might be a helpful visual for this topic. These stress-strain curves are for 4130, which is lower carbon than the steels in knives for the most part (though still hardenable to the mid 40s), and shows what some of this stuff looks like in a qunatitative sense. The unhardened samples are very ductile and show a higher toughness, but much lower yield strength. The quenched and tempered sample has a fairly similar overall behavior, but with roughly double the strength and a lower elongation at the break. The untempered sample had too high of a strength for the tensile testing machine (actually, too high of a cross-section) and maxed out the load cell, so I unfortunately I don't have a full curve for it. However, you can see the substantial difference in strength from the tempered sample . By the time the test maxed out, it had already stretched almost 1.5x as far as the lower strength tempered sample at yield almost three times as far as the unhardened samples.
  10. Aiden CC

    WIP - Sami influenced gift knives

    Glad it helped! I always sharpen scandi grinds before assembly. It's much easier to sharpen that way and, as you mentioned, you can get a better finish initially. In old knives, they were often ground with a slight hollow, which eventually gets sharpened flat, and then ends up convex. All of the originals I have show some signs of a slightly convex edge. Knives almost always come off of a sander a bit convex, which you can keep, or you can use sand paper on a flat surface to get it flat(er). This makes the first resharpening easier and look better (since the knife will be flat on the stone). In the past, it seems people cared less about keeping the bevels perfectly flat and just ground it on a stone until it was sharp again.
  11. Aiden CC

    WIP - Sami influenced gift knives

    Like any knife, the profile changes when you sharpen it. Having the grind go all the way to the bolster/handle lets you get a bit closer, but just like with a ricasso, there will inevitably be a little "dip". Some old Scandinavian knives had shoulders stick out above the bottom of the handle which helped with this a bit. An old very well used puukko next to my reproduction guessing at he original profile. It you look at pretty much any knife which has been used and resharpened for years and years, it will have some kind of concavity on the edge from sharpening. I haven't noticed it on any of my hard-use scandi knives yet, but the oldest one is only about 3 years old.
  12. Aiden CC

    Sakha (Yakut) Knife

    Thank you for the information! I've spent some time looking for the "Material and Spiritual Culture" book (using both the English and Russian title), but haven't had any luck finding a physical or digital copy anywhere (looks like only 2500 were printed). The book you sent a link to had some good information and I found one picture of the knives in it. I also watched some of Alexey's videos, and they are very helpful. It looks like for some of his knives he leaves scale inside the groove (though the inside is always smooth, either forged or filed)? I'll probably reach out to him to ask some questions. Is there a way/place that it is best to talk with him? I don't have a ton of time for knives right now, but I will probably do some drawings and maybe forge a few blades. I have been able to find some decent pictures on line, but haven't been able to find the original source of any of them: I especially like the narrow knife in this one, and may try it. I like the shapes of all the knives in this image, and will probably use them for inspiration at some point. These are such a unique type of knife, that I've really enjoyed, and it also seems like they are tied in to a sense of regional pride/cultural heritage. When replicating old knives I like to put a bit of my own style/skills into the final product, but I try to stay fairly faithful to the original form/function.
  13. Aiden CC

    Recent Knives (Kitchen, Yakutian, and Puukko)

    Thanks! The puukko was described as being from the 19th century where I bought it. There wasn't anything that jumped out at me to disprove that, but I don't have a good way of actually seeing how old it is. There have been knives that look like that for a very long time. The birch in that knife came in the form of these planks I got from Brisa, and I've found that it is much more figured (and much cheaper per knife) than the blocks that you can buy of the same wood.
  14. Aiden CC

    Origin of the "Modern" Puukko?

    Thanks for the info! I've heard the translation before, interesting that it signifies it isn't made by a specialized bladesmith. I find puukkos pretty useful as well, especially in knife making and wood working. I find the maasepän puukkos the most interesting, probably because they were really made to be used. I've found that they are much more difficult to find, especially for sale. I did manage to find one, but it was in pretty rough shape. I did my best to make a replica to get a sense of what it looked like when new: I think it had two "tramatic" events; one where the tip broke off, and a second where the handle busted open and the knife was discarded (though that could just be due to rusting of the tang).
  15. Aiden CC

    Recent Knives (Kitchen, Yakutian, and Puukko)

    Thanks! Thank you, for the sheath I switched up my technique a little bit. I used to make the holes for stitching by pushing the awl through both sides of the leather in one go, but this time I made the holes on each side individually (still one at a time though) and found it yielded a much more even look (also I poked myself in the thumb much less). I found the Sakha knives fun to make, and they checked off the boxes of "interesting to forge" as well as "easy to grind and polish, which are what I am finding defines a lot of the knives I enjoy making the most.
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