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Aiden CC

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Aiden CC last won the day on December 28 2023

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About Aiden CC

  • Birthday 04/01/1998

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  1. That may be the case. It was quite thin in some places, but maybe could have used some thinning there. The urushi was a long job to say the least. Definitely worth it to pick up a new skill though! On that note, the urushi is now done! The red went on in a total of three coats, with some light sanding in between. An unfortunate oversight is that the thickness of the lacquer means I need to make a new wider kurigata The lighting is poor, but here is everything starting to come together. Maybe when the sun comes out in a few weeks I’ll get some better pictures . The remaining work is to finish the horn fittings and refine the polish of the blades. I will eventually make a kozuka as well, but that will likely have to wait for some time.
  2. Things have slowed down, but I’m still at it! The kashira is polished and affixed to the tsuka, the first horn piece to be finished. I also finished the priming process after seven total layers of lacquer. I’m very pleased. The final coat of sabi urushi only had a few places where I sanded down to the previous layer of primer. No dings or gaps, and hard enough to not be dented by a finger nail. This is the process that really gives an urushi coating its strength and longevity, and is what makes it act more like a composite than a paint. Now for some color. The first coat of red is to stick down the texture, in this case sawdust sprinkled on it. You can see how dark the red gets when cured quickly. Also shown are some pieces that will be (late) Valentine’s Day gifts. The second coat of red goes on to saturate the texture, but I’ve found it best to dab it off after letting it sit for a few minutes. I’ll cure this coat over 2-3 days at a lower humidity, sand it, and apply another coat. I think 3 more coats or so should just about do it.
  3. I got a bit more done on this last week, and it should now be in a good place for occasional attention once my courses and research start later this week. I made and fit the kurigata along with a horn reinforcement for the mouth of the kogatana compartment and blended the cover for the channel I cut earlier. I also made the horn kashira and glued on the same which let me drill the mekugi ana through it. And now that long urushi process is underway, a little bit of painting and a lot of sanding. It currently has a second coat of sabi urushi curing. If I have a good level surface after sanding this one, I may seal it with one more layer of wiped raw urushi and start on the middle coats. Otherwise, I’ll apply a third layer of primer. I thought the surface was pretty good, but you can see all the high spots uncovered by sanding! I want to apply a texture as well. This blade will likely have to do some traveling, so I want a finish that won’t show scuffs and scratches. In the back you can see some test coupons of different materials and techniques. I think I’ll go for red, at least if I can get it to cure properly without darkening too much.
  4. Thank you! I’m currently stalling on the final trimming up of the samegawa. I have a kogatana blade ready and will probably use an antique kozuka as a placeholder while I wait to make one myself. It will be the only piece of kinko work on the sword, and I’m not sure if I want to keep it simple or try something more ambitious since it probably won’t be done for at least a few years. For urushi, if you haven’t already I would highly recommend checking out Tamenuri Studio (https://tamenuri.com). Another helpful YouTube channel: https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCzKMNIMHp9lbMBQ1uIBeqSQ . Dave’s work at https://islandblacksmith.ca had also been helpful. A sneak peak at the saya with one layer of fuki urushi as well as my improvised furo:
  5. In my defense, I’m technically not legally allowed to start until February 1 . I imagine things will slow down significantly after that. I have definitely enjoyed having some time off to explore Copenhagen without having to focus most of my energy on looking for a job. Starting out the handle wrapping process by wet-forming the samegawa here. I still need to trim it, hopefully I can do that next week with the disc sander the knife making club I go to. Making the channel for a kogatana. The blade needs to be re-polished, it’s also heart steel made from a failed tanto blade. This is where the long game starts. I’m thinking that 15-30 minutes a few times a week will be about the pace I can muster once I start school, which hopefully should be perfect for urushi. These are test pieces for a few different finish ideas. Not shown was a coat of fuki urushi underneath this sabi urushi as part of the primer coats. I have an old cabinet and some boards I got for free at a recycling center I’ll use to make a better furo (curing chamber). I’ll be posting urushi progress pictures, but probably not with as much detail as other parts of the process, I’m really not the source anyone should learn this from. It’s complicated and I’m sure I’ll do a lot of things wrong. It can also be hazardous. I’ve been immune to poison ivy my whole life and am yet to have any issues with urushi, but it’s still important to be careful if you try it.
  6. It definitely was! Surprisingly fast too. Nice to not make a ton of dust as well. Although I have access to some power tools, I’ve been aiming for a primarily hand tool based approach here. It’s a bit slow, but has been quite relaxing. I roughed out some horn plates and leveled them with sand paper. A saw and chisels made short work of the tenons for the fuchi and koiguchi. I also employed some light filing for cleanup. I also got to practice my piercing by using a jeweler’s saw to rough out the openings. I inched up on the final fit with files, the tenons were cut so the horn would be slightly proud. On the tsuka end, it will be flattened level with the wood, on the says end, it will be shaped to be slightly concave so the two surfaces mate without any gaps. I have been practicing with urushi for the past year or so and plan to use it for the saya, so I’ll be making some test pieces for that soon. Before that, I still need to cut the channel for the kogatana and kurigata though.
  7. I was debating whether to bring these planes, but I’m glad I did. They needed a good bit of TLC since I got them second hand on the cheap, but it’s been a ton of fun! I still have some time to kill before my PhD starts, so I hope to get some work done on this before I have a day job again. Some shots starting to rough shape the saya, this time in a woodshop full of tools abused by Danish children where the knife making club I joined meets. Not matching, but I used alder for the tsuka since I didn’t bring any poplar with me from the US. I glued this up with home made rice glue, but forgot to take pictures during the process of making that. It’s been hard to find used tools here, and while I had high hopes for the saw in the background, it’s has so far been a disappointing. I sharpened it, but the set of the teeth may also be an issue. Shaping the tsuka core, notice it’s thinner than the saya to accommodate the wrap thickness. The next step will be to fit up som pieces of horn. I’ll start with the fuchi and koiguchi, but also required are the kashira, kojiri, and kurigata.
  8. Two more inspired by knives from Kokemäki: First, a short and handy blade. Price is $245 including domestic shipping. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1635213446/kokemaen-style-puukko-knife-hand-forged Also, a longer one. Price including domestic shipping is $260. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1649379655/long-kokemaen-puukko-knife-hand-forged
  9. After starting to get things in order after moving, I’ve had a bit of time to work on the tanto I brought with me. Not much of a shop, but my apartment has a small semi-finished basement. With a bench vise I got for about $7 equivalent, and a surprisingly heavy table, I was able to test out this plane I bought and tuned up a while ago. I have a second one which I’m going to convert into an internal radius plane as well. I may be back to hand tools for a while, but back at it!
  10. The main aspect was beveling the body, to reduce the width of the weld line and let me pre-bend the edge bar to match the profile. I've found that if a batch of hearth steel is prone to hot shortness, everything will be great right up to the point where the edge tries to curve while being beveled, but is constrained by the thick wrought iron it is welded to. I don't actually think any of this material was prone to hot-shortness, but things seemed to work out well with this approach.
  11. Lots of work on these from the past few months, as well as the beginnings a a few long-term projects I brought to Denmark to work on when I have some time. My fist try at herringbone inlay. The wire was too big but it actually worked out mostly ok. I still need to work on the ends of the channels though. A few failed blade blanks. When I began the edge bevel, some cracks opened up an I unfortunately had to scrap these. I decided to try out forging the body and edge to a near-finished condition before welding, which actually worked fairly well. Some of the edges are from a new billet, and the rest are odds and ends I’ve saved for a while. You can see a sneak peak at the patterns in the steel in the heat treated blades. Last week I had a multi-day push to get a bunch of finish grinding done. The 20+ blades included those four seax blades along with a broadsax blade that had been sitting around after heat treatment in August. Here they are fitted to handle blanks. I decided to use true boxwood, a boxwood relative, and horn for these handles.
  12. I have a checklist of things to get done before I move and only a few days left to finish it, so things have been going retry busy. I got the ten scandi blades ground and polished. Tomorrow I’ll put a handle on one of them just to make sure my post treatment of the AEB-L tangs to make them pein-able actually works. I also got this batch of blades heat treated and finish ground. Four makiri blades, four broken back seax blades to practice wire inlay and a broadsax I forged in August made from hearth steel and wrought iron, and a MagnaCut chef knife which will be a wedding gift.
  13. Love the santoku, and glad the KITH knife is serving you well! In my own shop, I’ve been busy lately getting ready for my move, working on both things for myself to work on while I have access to only a more limited shop, and a few gifts for the knife makers I met in Copenhagen who helped me get up and going. This morning I got a bunch of stainless blades profiled and just heat treated them. The left is a MagnaCut chef knife which will be a wedding gift for a friend from grad school (Larrin did his PhD research with the same group as us, so that steel seemed like a good fit). The rest are AEB-L “scandi” style knives to learn about that sort of knife making. I couldn’t bring myself to buy blades, so I’ decide to make ones like the guys I know in Denmark work with. I also worked on some forged blades to take with me. I have been practicing wire inlay, so I wanted some seax blades to work on. I forgot to take pictures after, but I have four welded up from wrought iron and hearth steel (the billets for two shown above along with sheet metal and paper patterns). I also have been trying out some Ainu style blades. They are usually single bevel, often two layer laminates. I forged some blades with Hitachi White #1 welded to 1018, ~100 year old mild steel (~1005), and wrought iron.
  14. Thanks all for the kind responses, my residence permit just got approved surprisingly early, so I've been working out some final details this past week. I'll definitely still keep in touch here! I have lots of pictures from some projects from the past few weeks I'll post as I have the time. That certainly is a ways away! I'll let you know if I find myself in the area
  15. Thank you @jake pogrebinsky for all of the information! I’ll try and find to put it into practice in the near future. I was able to find a source of old cross cut saw blades of local (Danish) manufacture that seem to have good steel for these knives. I’ll probably keep this first knife to practice with as now I’m living somewhere where I catch fish big enough to be worth filleting! My record in Colorado was a 45 cm trout, broken easily by my first cod in Denmark.
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