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Aiden CC

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Aiden CC last won the day on January 11

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About Aiden CC

  • Birthday 04/01/1998

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  1. A small update to this: I reached out to a number of processors and ranches and have one tentative yes with some discussion left around pricing and quantity. The place processes 5-10 animals a week and it seems like I will be able to get a batch in two weeks. The person on the phone was curious but un-phased
  2. That's a good idea. I called someone at a nearby smaller scale ranch and they said they would talk with their butcher and get back to me, so that may be a possibility. I'm located near Denver Colorado, so there are a decent number of farms and ranches around, some are just a bit of a drive away! I have a few more places to call today as well. @Hoy's Forge thank you for the tips! I don't have much shop time for the next couple of weeks, so my current plan if I get a green tail is to take the skin off and then freeze it for when I have more time, since it seems best to have the knife and core ready when preparing the hide. Would something like hydrated lime work as a substitute for wood ash? Ash would have more of the "DIY" aspect I go for with these knives though. Deer legs are another interesting option, though if they are mostly available in the fall it may not work too well for me as starting this August I will be away from the shop for quite some time. I also ordered some dog chews, we'll see if they have hide on them or not, as it is difficult to tell from the photos.
  3. A hole in the tip is actually ok, many sheaths in this style are open tipped, possibly for a mix of ease of manufacture and drainage so the knife doesn’t freeze into the sheath. The main thing is having an intact tube and un-tanned hide. Someone suggested I ask about goat/lamb legs as well which seems like an interesting option, though I imagine the skin may be somewhat thinner.
  4. Thank you! That makes sense. I found some videos about cooking whole tails and it seems pretty involved (like burning off the hair) so it would make sense that butchers wouldn't have it. I did find a "whole animal" butcher near me, who I will call tomorrow when her shop is open along with a few processing plants nearby. I did find these chews, but they are advertised as al alternative to rawhide, so I'm not sure if they are skin-on: https://www.sanchoandlola.com/products/new-ox-tail-chews?variant=43103942738141 I don't have any immediate friends or family with cattle, but I will keep asking around. One of my grandfathers was a rancher and my step-grandfather had a farm and raised cattle a long time ago so I may be able to find a contact. Also, by searching in Russian, I was able to find a few relevant videos that show how this process works:
  5. For a while I have wanted to emulate a particular type of sheath made from a wooden core wrapped in rawhide, often used to carry Sakha knives. I found one video about how these sheaths are made years ago, but unfortunately it no longer exists on youtube. Essentially, the skin from an oxtail is removed without making any lengthwise cut, basically unrolled from the tail. The tube is then stretched over the wooden core with the knife in it, sometimes a piece of birch bark is used around the exposed part of the handle, either to add some strength or a better contact surface for the wood. I have a few questions about trying to make this kind of sheath. 1) Does anyone know of a place I might be able to find rawhide tails meant for crafts like this? 2) Would dehydrated tails in the form of dog chews work if I were to soak them, then remove the hide, scrape it, and let it dry over the core? 3) Would a whole oxtail from a butcher have skin on it that would work or is something done during the preparation that would mean I couldn't use it for this? If that would work, what would need to be done to make proper rawhide out of skin from a cut of meat? Thank you for reading, any advice is appreciated!
  6. For some reason I got the urge to try a redo of one of my failed tantos from the past. This one is 12 fold hearth steel, part of a longer term project to make a blade and koshirae that mean something to me. Last night it lived through heat treatment and has a hamon the whole length of the edge which is a huge relief! I don’t have much time to work on this for the next few months, but there will hopefully be more to come!
  7. A bit of experimentation and I was able to use my chef knife mold for a different blade shape, which I think will open up a lot more options. I don’t think these blades are super marketable, but they make good gifts and are slowly filling up my own kitchen. This bullnose butcher knife will be a holiday gift, and I have plans for a few more knives with this handle type for my own use.
  8. The broad sax is now finished! It feels surprisingly agile for the width and thickness of the blade, possibly due to the long handle. I think I’ll use end caps on wrapped handles going forward. I also finally settled on a way to make these rivets. These are soldered together from rod and pattern wire. I also forged this kurzsaxe, I want to improve my groove scraping abilities, so this will hopefully have two narrow grooves on each side.
  9. I used this strategy to tin the back of a rivet solder on a piece of pattern wire and it worked pretty well! I think I’ll do all brass and no cast parts on the sheath I’m currently working on, but I may try making some bronze “washers” next, the model would be one of these: Also, I’m fairly pleased with how my prototype came out: I did not have much luck making a jig to punch out beaded “wire” from sheet, but I may make something more robust to try and forge it from solid bronze rods I have been casting with my extra metal every pour.
  10. That would work, and maybe be easier, though I have some lazy (and maybe some good) reasons to try soldering. The first is that a slightly off-center rivet in the washer is very evident. This means that either the hole and shank need to be exactly centered or one needs to be oversized. I’ve had a hard time getting the shanks square and centered since I poke through with a rod after taking out the model rivet. Would using a drill press for this maybe work better? A second, (slightly) lazier, reason is that I found a hole saw is a super consistent way to make discs with a centered hole. The pilot is bigger than an acceptable rivet shank though. Also, I have been playing around with bending rings out of pattern wire, which would definitely need to be soldered. I’ll try building a jig for making the dimples and see if that helps with centering though, since it will give a very obvious circumference to grind and file down to. A slightly more valid reason is that since the washers will have a few points of contact, some “settling” could lead to a wiggle. If I sunk three high bumps in the middle or made three around the edge a bit taller, I could potentially get around that by really controlling the contact points though. I also want to try some decorative tinning like you see on some originals (could be a good way to make bronze rivets match brass washers too ), that might basically make for a free soldering step, maybe with something like tinning flux?
  11. Peiter, I may try that out, at least for plain rivets. Cleaning up the gate from the back is a little tricky. Jerrod, thank you for the tip about putting details in the drag. I’m looking into some non-casting routes for the washers, but I will still probably try out a cast washers and a one-piece casting too. Very quick and dirty, but the actual features came out pretty clean. With a simple jig I think I could make these pretty consistent. I’m still not sure about the best way to solder these pieces together, maybe a few bumps or shins in middle? Any advice there would be appreciated as well.
  12. In a bit of a switcheroo, the broken back seax that seemed very promising needs to be scrapped and the broadsax blade I was worried about turned out to be alright! This blade is two flavors of wrought iron with a very low sanmai edge. I have found that in cases like this the iron around the edge I see actually picks up quite a bit of carbon, so it can be hard to find the edge at first by etching. Not so much on this one, but some blades will start sparking like steel before any of the core has even been exposed. I was worried that the blade was too narrow (37 x 4.2 cm) but in a quick literature review I found a light broadsaxe that had similar proportions. The handle is all wrapped up () as well. I decided to try out and under wrap on this one, though I’m not sure about the historical accuracy of that detail. I liked how the last risers turned out, so I decided for more on this one, though out of twine this time instead of leather. Also, the leather now completely enclosed the core. I’ve seen a few very nice looking handles done that way so I figured I would take a crack at it! This one just needs a sheath and it’s done. Finally, I decided to try out casting some rivet bosses from bronze. Once I figure out how to make bronze nails I like to match the color, these will replace the soldered brass bosses I have been using. I also have some pattern wire in the mail to try out making fancy washers like you see on a lot of originals.
  13. Thanks Alan, I’ll take a look at those resources! Admittedly, it’s nice to have the occasional break from articles about the edge ductility of advanced high strength steels I followed the advice from @Jerrod Miller and it definitely improved things! Here is a first shot at doing one rivet, the metal seemed to flow well even in a pretty shallow channel. I managed to get two at a time to work as well. I had some issues with sand erosion ending up in the castings, and, to be fair, I was warned. Next attempt will use solid forms for the runner and gates. I will probably try to do four of these in one flask, to actually save effort this way, I think I need at least two at a time, but four would be great.
  14. That would be great, thank you! I may try looking around at different types of pattern wire to potential make a master for casting these then. I think I've seen beaded pattern wire at various jewelry supply places. I do like soft metalwork like this, but at 4-8 of these on a sheath, that would be a lot of work for each knife, which may have been the point back then! I guess a hollow tipped punch could potentially do it more quickly as well.
  15. It makes sense that they would want to make parts like these hollow, especially since a casting needs some cleanup anyways. I was able to find a more zoomed in photo of those sheaths from above, and it does look to me like the boss and rim are different components on at least on the middle sheath, due to the shadows you can see in the flutes where they meet the central boss. Maybe a hollow, flat, head for the rivet and a thin sheet washer fluted with a punch and die or repousse? I think that the buttons on at least the bottom sheath could be formed from a single piece as they don't seem to have that same super sharp transition between the boss and the rim. Since I am still very new to casting, I think I'll probably start with thicker sections for the fittings I use to make it easier on myself while experimenting with other methods on the side. I'll try out casting the rivet and washer as separate pieces as well.
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