Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Aiden CC

Members
  • Content count

    306
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Aiden CC last won the day on May 21 2017

Aiden CC had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

82 Excellent

About Aiden CC

  • Birthday 04/01/1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

821 profile views
  1. Filet Knife Thickness

    If you’re very careful, you can finish bevels nicely, the key I’ve found is minimizing the amount of work you need to do with the scotchbrite (good prep), and keeping things flat. I recently discovered you can do a no-hand-sand pre-etch finish for low layer (deep etch) pattern welding. Unfortunately, I don’t have access to my grinder right now, so the scotchbrite might be done by hand.
  2. Filet Knife Thickness

    Noted. There is some design/lettering on the saw I might try and preserve, maybe a scotchbrite finishing pad or something. Might just sand down to flat though. I may look into media blasting it, though if it's too aggressive, that could make a pitted surface which would rust/get dirty.
  3. Filet Knife Thickness

    I took a little bit of time to draw up some designs, the first two inspired by Rapala knives, the third a more general design. Would love to hear what people think. One and two both have ferrules, though 1 would be a custom. I'm also debating the surface finish for the knives, I thought it might be cool to leave the original patina, though I don't want it to hold dirt. Another option would be sand-blasting to have some original finish without losing too much material. My final option would be to sand it down to a clean finish and do my typical satin knife. Here are some materials I came across recently, cork and spalter birch. I went into the woods with some friends to get the springs off an overturned car and we happened on a dead birch tree which turned out to have some very nice spalting. Will probably dry out small pieces in the microwave and seal the ends of the longer pretier ones for a propper seasoning. Also ordered some virgin cork bark to make saw/sand into slices to make a stacked handle from.
  4. Filet Knife Thickness

    Sounds like the thin filet knife is a doable project. I'll see how the original finish looks, but I'll probably end up sanding it down/using one of my coarse stones. Probably test the hardness, see if it warrants re-hardening. I'm trying to get trained on some of the mat-sci equipment, so I may try to figure out what's in the saw steel just for fun. I'll probably get a design drawn at some point.
  5. Filet Knife Thickness

    I like that thickness for kitchen knives, I've gone down to around 0.055" for my thinnest paring knife. I'm currently back at my college, which means I don't have any good grinders or general knife making equipment, however I do have the advantage of a materials science lab with a director who likes to help students with passion projects. The saw blade ought to be heat treated already, I can test the hardness at some point and see exactly what it is, if needed, I could use a proper kiln to re-harden it. I may try something like that, though I'm afraid if I remove too much material I'll end up making it too flexible. Did you do a primary and secondary bevel or just a single one? I really like very thin knives, they can do a lot. I'm worried this might be a bit too thin. I'll probably leave essentially the initial finish on the flats so I don't lose too much mass.
  6. Filet Knife Thickness

    A few weeks ago I bought some old hand saw blades (measured at 0.042" thick with my micrometer), and I was wondering if that would bee too thin to make a filet knife out of. The plan would probably be to do a small scandi grind as the stock is already so thin. I've wanted to try making a knife that floats and I figure this would be a good bade type to give that a shot, so I ordered some cork flats to do a stacked handle with. Anyways, do you all think 0.042" would be thick enough for a filet knife or should I look for some thicker stock?
  7. This seax speaks to the past with it's style based on millennia old originals as well as the wrought iron it its pattern from a 150 year old window bar. In addition to a wrought iron spine, the blade also has a central bar of twisted 15n20 and 1095 and an edge bar of W1 tool steel, sharpened to a working edge. There is also the shadow of an auto-hamon reveled by the etch. The handle is made from a beautiful piece of curly maple stained and burnished to bring out the figure. The knife comes with a leather sheath with brass fittings configured for edge up carry as it is believed may have been the case on originals. Dimensions are: -Blade: 7” (178mm) long, 1 1/4” (32mm) wide, 5/16” (8mm) thick. -Overall length: 12 3/4” Price is $400 plus shipping, if you're interested you can send me a PM here or check it out on my Etsy shop here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/574263574/pattern-welded-broken-back-seax-knife
  8. Wedge Handle Puukko

    My most recent puukko, in 80crv2 and birds-eye maple with traditional Scandinavian wedged handle construction. The blade has a rhombic cross section with a high scandi grind polished/sharpened on a surface plate to ensure flatness. I find these little blades excel at wood working, and all sorts of other tasks. The blade is held into the handle with a pair of pine wedges along with eposy to increase strength and water resistance. The knife comes with a custom fit leather sheath with a wooden blade liner and a "dangler" style belt loop. Here are the dimensions: -3” (76mm) blade-7/8” (22mm) wide -3/16” (4mm) thick spine at the thickest point- 7 1/8” (181mm) overall length Price is $120 plus shipping, if you are interested you can PM me here or find it in my Etsy shop at https://www.etsy.com/listing/588066369/hand-forged-puukko-knife-with-birdseye Thanks for looking!
  9. Busy Few Weeks

    Coming in handy already!
  10. Busy Few Weeks

    Thanks guys! I tried to get four months of knife making compressed into a few weeks. I also found a new polishing process I like a lot which saves some time using emery on a buffing wheel.
  11. Busy Few Weeks

    I had about two and a half weeks of my month of winter break to make knives and I think I set a personal record. Someone got a forge set up at my school, but the grinders are pretty lacking and I won't have time for filing, so these 12 will probably be my last ones until May. Also, I discovered that taking photos of big sets of knives is fun, so there are a lot of pictures. Sorted by size By the order I made them in I sharpen the knives in the shared kitchen every month or so, but they're pretty lacking, so I made myself a kitchen set. Woods are laurel from Costa Rica and cherry from a dead tree someone had me cut down a few years ago in the middle. The knife second from the right isn't from this month, but these are all of the "gaucho" knives I made based on the ones I saw in Chile. Finally, sheaths which I spent the last few days making. Sheaths on the kitchen knives are mostly for transport, I also like this style a lot. Thanks for looking!
  12. Does Magical Realism Count?

    Cleaned off the scale with an angle grinder, and did some profiling. The recurve came from the positions of the hay knife teeth, but I think it makes it look pretty wicked and mimicks the wear pattern of repeated sharpening. This is going to be a beast to grind. Also, turns out my shopvac was filled all the way to the brim with dust.
  13. Ornamental Cherry Wood

    About four years ago someone had my cut down an ornamental cherry tree and let me keep it, and it’s been drying in my garage ever sense. Yesterday I finally cut into it, with low expectations, but was pleasantly surprised. I don’t really have any electric saws and there were a lot of rip cuts to do, so I battoned through it with my leuku. I decided to try straight cut as well as some quartersawn blanks. In the bottom photo, top is quarter sawn, bottom is straight. There was also some minor spalting, which I’ll take better pictures of tomorrow I made a set of straight sawn scales for this little kitchen knife (blade is the tip of an old hay knife). When I finish the handle I should be able to get some nicer pictures of the grain. Thanks for looking!
  14. Does Magical Realism Count?

    I ended up doing a little tweaking, making a more gradual drop in the spine. I think it makes it look more “real.” It has some recurve, which I might grind out or heat up and try to forge out.
  15. Does Magical Realism Count?

    Not quite that quick . It’s another 12” South American style Knife I made few weeks ago with a more reasonably sized blade.
×