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Aiden CC

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  1. Aiden CC

    Puukko Books

    Puukkon Historia is not exactly new, but there is a sequel that came out this year along with an English book by the same author. I believe they may have done another run of the original when they printed the second version as both are currently available on Adlibris. The English book has an introductory section talking about the history of the puukko starting from the Viking era to the present followed by a section with photos of knives from the collection of the Finnish National Museum grouped by type/region. The book was written by a knife maker and it shows. Each entry has most i
  2. I was able to pierce out a piece of fairly uniform thickness my scale said it was 1 g, so probably ~0.5-1.5 g assuming the scale can be trusted for low values like this. I calculated the volume of the piece, and the expected mass would be ~1.4 g for aluminum, ~3.5 g for zinc, and ~0.9 for magnesium alloy. It seems like it's definitely not zinc, and I think that magnesium would have reacted to the vinegar/flame so it seems like it's aluminum. From doing a bit of reading it seems like aluminum bronzes can have hardness and tensile strength in the range of some steels, can be heat treated if ther
  3. The melting point difference is a good idea. I don't have access to a torch at the moment unfortunately, however I have so far failed to melt a small shaving of it with a heat gun or a lighter. Not a definitive answer, but perhaps leaning towards aluminum. I do have a kitchen scale, so it I can get a piece with regular geometry I could try using the density as well.
  4. Aluminum and zinc were my first guesses as well. Is there a significant risk melting it if it is zinc? I’ve generally shied away from brass in casting to avoid that can of worms, but I’m sure it is possible to do safely. Also, not sure if it helps at all, but here is a picture of the grain in the break (made with a hammer and cold chisel). I also scraped down to clean metal and put on a drop of vinegar which doesn’t seem to be doing much. Whatever this is, it’s pretty soft.
  5. For my KITH knife this year I have been considering adding a theme of found wood and scrap metal on top of the 1 cubic once requirement and have been looking for potential ways to get some non-ferrous material to increase my options. I managed to get ahold of a rusted outa alternator that may be ~60 years old pictured below: The end of the housing is some kind of non ferrous casting and I was wondering if anyone had tips on how to potentially ID the alloy/if it would be safe or effective to try and make some kind of bronze or brass with pieces of the pot metal and windings. I
  6. This is definitely something I want to make sure I keep when making these knives. I think what I have found is that with a flat platen on a belt sander and high grit sand paper I am able to do things that would have been difficult to impossible for many in the past, especially in the less well equipped workshops. It's looking like using some older school tools may be what it takes, at least at first, to capture some of that old spirit. On the topic of scrapers, I was actually considering trying them out a little while ago after I decided to try hanging the collared axe I made bel
  7. Looking good! Making the drawing 3D also definitely helps to understand what the part looks like without having to draw multiple views. Now I see what the dotted lines were in the first one. If showing the other parts would be helpful, you could add those back in with labels, or just leave them out if this drawing only is only meant to show the front plate and that board. I'm used to making drawings like this in CAD where it's easy to do tons of different views and have a labeled assembly drawing/exploded view so definitely take all of this with a grain of salt.
  8. If I understand correctly this is a template you could draw on a 9mm thick board to cut out the pieces for a fuigo? If so it looks pretty good, you could probably leave it, though here are some things that might make it more explicit following somewhat in the vein of engineering drawings: You could make the thickness and notch callouts a little clearer. For the notch you could draw a small dashed circle around the area then draw lines to a larger circle with the detailed view and dimensions. Is the extra 10mm on the overall length meant to account for the material removed with the
  9. I've definitely stumbled across videos like that before (and been envious of the setup). I suppose not all large stone wheels were also slow . The Kustaa Lammi puukko video also shows a great large wheel grinder and a number of other polishers, including some kind of loose abrasive process (wax and emery on some kind of buff if I recall) that throws sparks. I finally made a radius platen for grinding the ura of single bevel knives, but the radius is only part of the story with those grinders (I wouldn't mind continuous cooling/being able to sit down!).I also came across these videos a while ag
  10. This reminds me of the first assignment in a class called "fundamentals of machine shop operations": take a piece of round aluminum down to a 1" cube +-0.001" to a side using files. They can certainly be precision instruments! @Pieter-Paul Derks good point mentioning the handles as well! It seems like before belt sanders, powered wood shaping wasn't much of a thing outside of turning (I can't imagine a grindstone would like wood all that much). I have played with scraping a little bit in metal when I made a fuller scraper for Sakha/Evenk knives and a kisage for kinko work, but neve
  11. Don, I wouldn't say my goal is so much to make a knife that isn't doesn't look new as to make something that has some of the organic, rough around the edges, features of knives made with simpler tools. Sometimes it takes a fair bit of imagination to envision what these knives used to look like, especially finish wise, which is part of the challenge. On the other hand, I don't want to put knives out into the world that are amateurish or half baked. If I did all of my polishing with an 80 grit wheel on a bench grinder it would certainly look rustic, but it wouldn't be something I would want to s
  12. It seems like the finish does vary pretty widely. I'm not much of a collector, but I've been given a few of these knives and bought a few of my own. It's hard to tell what the "deepest" layer of the finish is, and what came later from sharpening. All of the ones I have handled have some marks from rotary grindstones, maybe in the 100-200 grit range. I would agree on the stones, too. I have found that you can make some very deep scratches with the courser stones that take a lot of work to get out. That's an interesting point about the swords, Geoff. At this point, I made have actual
  13. Thank you everyone for the ideas so far. I'll give etching a shot for sure. Does the oxide cleaning let you re-sharpen scandi grind blades after the etch? Patination is something I have been experimenting with lately, so I have some other chemicals I could experiment with as well. I've sanded with a soft backing on convex grinds, but using it to soften lines is something I haven't tried before. I guess "aging" isn't quite what I'm going for, more so I'm trying to imagine what an old piece was like when it was new and make something in that spirit. To the end, I want to make something that doe
  14. One of my favorite type of projects recently has been pieces inspired by specific old knives. I've gotten better at matching the dimensions, materials, and general construction, however I don't think I'm quite there as far as really doing justice to the character of some of the old knives I've looked to for inspiration. I'm not sure if "wabi sabi" is the right term, but there is some combination of form, finish, and aging which old knives come about honestly that I have had trouble replicating with intention. I would definitely be interested in any advice/insights people have about this kind o
  15. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Cory LA 3. Conner Michaux 4. billyO 5. Ted Stocksdale 6. Geoff Keyes 7. Brian Dougherty 8. Pieter-Paul Derks 9. Robert Dowse 10. Gary LT 11. Bruno 12.Jaron Martindale 13. Doug Webster 14: Sean Hollowood. 15. Aiden Carley-Clopton
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