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Aiden CC

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Aiden CC last won the day on April 8 2018

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About Aiden CC

  • Birthday 04/01/1998

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  1. Thanks! That sounds good. I did manage to find speeds for 17-4. The mill I would use is a knee mill with CNC on the X/Y axes. I'll probably just be drilling and counterboring manually, but if I get ambitious I may cut the profile with CNC (though using a bandsaw and grinder might honestly be less hassle). Was the knife a liner lock or frame lock? I'll keep looking into Ti, though it is a bit of a pain to work, especially if it were 3/16-1/4" thick like I plan on making the frame. Do you have any pictures of the knife? It would be interesting to see how the replaceable contact point works.
  2. I believe most of the stuff I’ve seen has been in the solution treated state. After aging does it behave anything like a lower alloy steel would at that hardness? That’s a fair point about McMaster. I looked on eBay a bit and couldn’t find much Ti over 1/8”, which is a bit thin for what I want to do. I have also experienced the galling Ti can exhibit with steel, though I found that applying then wiping off oil mostly fixed it. Is the replaceable surface on the lock bar or on the blade? With a frame lock there’s a lot of lock bar to wear, which should help longevity.
  3. Not having to work with hardenable material could make machining a bit easier. Hopefully with a thicker lock bar (3/16") and some angle to the heel it will take a long time before wear is an issue. I don't think I will be able to leave anything unhardened on the blade since I will likely do a plate quench, but since I'll be using foil, there hopefully won't be too much damage to the surface and I'll be able to go closer to the finished geometry before heat treatment. The over-extension thing is a good point, since there isn't a scale to stop the travel like in a liner lock. It looks like heat treated 17-4 has over twice the yield strength of a 300 series stainless steel, which could address that, but maybe I should do some analysis to see if I really need that strength. I was planning on using washers made from some kind of bearing bronze, and either a pressed in bronze bushing or a bronze pivot for the action. Not as sure about a bronze lock-bar. The elastic modulus is lower than steel so I wouldn't need as deep of a relief cut, but over-extension could be a problem and I would be worried about permanently bending the lock bar on accident.
  4. I've wanted to make another locking folding knife for a while, and thought that a frame lock might be a fun project. I'm trying to keep the budget manageable, so that means in all likelihood using a steel instead of titanium for the frame. I want the whole thing to be corrosion resistant, which means the steel will have to be stainless. I already have some CAD and have picked a few of the parts I might use, which I will probably put in a Design and Critique thread later down the line. Anyways, I have been looking at a few different options. One option would be to use some blade steel, though this might be the most expensive, since I would need to buy a fairly thick piece of steel. It would mean I could make the blade and scales from the same stock, though that would involve more machining, since I plan on the scales being 3/16" with a 1/8" blade. Also, I already have some 440C in 1/8" bar so I don't need to buy blade steel anyways. I haven't looked into it much, but it also seems like getting the properties I want may be difficult in a steel designed for high hardness rather than spring applications. Another steel I have considered is 17-4 PH. It seems like I would have a lot of options if I bought a piece in the solutionized form and that the high strength could work for this application. It's also available in a convenient size on McMaster Carr where I might order all of this stuff from. One downside is that I've heard it can be difficult to machine (although apparently it's better if you harden it first?) which could be problematic since I have lots of drilling and counterboring to do. The final thing I've been thinking of is either 410 or 416 (though these aren't available on McMaster in convenient sizes and I would have to order from somewhere else/use a piece I have which may be big enough). I think the strength on these will be high enough after heat treating. Also, would a 300 series work at all? I'm sure it depends on the spring geometry, but I want something that will work with a wide margin so I don't mess this up. Also I may be able to get some budget from this from my school, so if I can keep it to under $100, price isn't a huge consideration. Any thoughts would be appreciated! I'm currently leaning towards 17-4, but that depends a lot on how it is to machine (heat treatment looks pretty straightforward, just an aging cycle at ~500 C). This is mostly based on it being available in a convenient form and having s simpler heat treatment than 410 (the box furnaces I have take forever to get up to ~1000 C and it would complicate things if I had to do an oil quench), plus if I can get money to buy new stock I would rather do that than use things I bought for myself. If a 300 series would work without heat treating that would be the easiest (though I kind of like heat treating stuff). Thanks for reading!
  5. Looking good! Not sure if you’ve already done the glue up, but if not, you could also carve softwood wedges to fill the gap rather than dust and epoxy. It’s something that was traditionally done on both puukko and Sakha knives.
  6. Burnishing could be a good option. The general idea is to raise "whiskers" on the surface of the wood, then remove them. My personal method is to wet the wood, dry it with a hairdryer, then scrub it with steel wool. I repeat that until the surface of the wood stays smooth when it gets wet. When oiled, this makes for a fairly glossy finish.
  7. Thanks! Thanks! Its my favorite of the two. It has also been somewhat more pleasant to work on. Now, some more progress! First I sanded the carving knife handle through 220 grit, then I marked and cut the first notch. I decided to changed to wider rounder notches, partially for looks and partially because the edges of all of my needle files are too torn up/rounded off to make a decent square notch. The big notch was made with a half round file. This was fun, and took a surprising amount of time. I took a bunch of pictures at the different stages of shaping/sanding this handle, but you can't tell the difference so you'll have to trust me when I say it took a few hours. The angles are very tight, so a lot of the work was using either folded sand paper or wrapping it around the very ends of files. Here are the results! I'm going to try and make a sheath for the carving knife, other than that and a few coats of oil it's finished. The big one still needs a wooden end cap to cover the rivet, then it will be all done. I'm going to try to make a sheath like the very elaborate one of the original, and definitely won't be able to get it done in the next two days while also doing the other things I want to get to. Also, the sun's supposed to finally come out tomorrow, so hopefully I can get some better lighting for more pictures.
  8. Not a ton of progress today, just got the antler on the big knife roughed in. The guard was really tricky. The lip in the sides couldn’t easily be shaped with a file because of the downward curve after the edge, so I had to use a burr on a Dremel. Tomorrow I’ll start sanding, and possibly finish both of these.
  9. I used to use birch bark for this, but have found leather is more consistent and generally easier. For some reason metal guards/bolsters with no spacer looks fine to me, maybe it's because antler and wood don't have as much contrast and need something to go between them. Anyways, here's some more progress: First step was to peen both tangs. The one on the larger knife will be completely covered by a wooden end cap, but this one needs to look at least somewhat presentable. Handle profiles marked out. While peening, I accidentally broke the tip of the big knife, so I also did a slight re-profile to fix that. The handle design I had for the carving knife would have put the rivet a bit too close to the edge of the butt-cap, so I modified it slightly. A coping saw, rasp, and files take the handles to the lines. Same for the other profile. There are a few wiggles I noticed here, which I worked out after taking the picture. I used a rasp and files to break all of the corners on the carving knife. Then I used the carving knife to shape the wooden section of the hunting knife handle. I will need to use a rasp/files on the antler. Shaping the wood with a knife is the way Bergman recommends to do it in his book. It felt a bit slower to me than using a rasp, but then again I use a rasp much more than I whittle, so it could just be me. It was also more fun and chips are a lot nicer than dust. Also, the leather kept the edge from hitting the antler which was nice. It also might set me up for an easier time shaping the antler, not having to worry about the wood as well. Anyways, that's it for now! Next step is to finish rough shaping then move on into sanding. Thanks for looking!
  10. I have about two weeks of time to put in some serious work on knives, this is some of what I've been up to. These knives are both based on knives in Bo Bergman's knife making book, one of them a project (the Mountaineer's Knife) and the other one is inspired by a drawing of one of his wood carving knives. Here are the blades plus a drawing of one of the finished knives. The puukko and small carving knife are both forged from an old leaf spring, and the third is 80crv2. The puukko will have its own stuff going on, so I will probably make it its own thread when I get to working on it. This is the plan for the carving knife. I decided to make it because I'm not really happy with the last one I made. It also had a scandi grind, but was a bit too acute which made it too high maintenance. Now I use it mostly for leather working. Because the pieces of the handle don't all have square edges, it is important to use a pattern for the handle shape and mark out where the tang will be so all of the drilling is in the right spot. Also, I used a lightly different method for cutting these handle blanks from the parent stock (curly birch planks from smaller trees, which are much cheaper than blocks) and should hopefully get a better looking pattern on the surface of the handle. Here the blade is polished/sharpened and everything is epoxied on. I'm trying out the method of gluing before peening. It usually takes longer than the working time of the epoxy to peen a tang anyways, so I figure this will save some pain and suffering, though I think the angled surface of the bolster will add some back. This is as far as I have this knife right now, I will probably peen the tang and start shaping the handle tomorrow. The guard for this knife goes out fairly far, so the antler was cut from the widest part, a few inches above the crown. Since the top surface curves down, I shaped that before fitting it to the handle. This guard was a real bear to fit. The hole isn't square since the blade has no plunge cut, and working a 1" thick piece of antler with needle files takes a while. I do think it is my best fit of an antler bolster though (especially compared to the carving knife). Here you can see how I made the hole for the tang in the birch before trimming it to final size. Since I had to drill the hole from both sides, it was much easier to do with a block I knew was square. It was easy enough to trim and true up afterwards. Here is the whole stack put together. Right before this step I sharpened and stropped the blade. Also, in this picture you can see how far from square the antler butt-cap is. This meant that the hole for the tang is not 90 degrees. I used a hand drill to start it and was careful to check that it was parallel to the matching face of the wooden block while fitting it. You'll also notice some pieces of black leather. I find adding leather helps to improve the look of the transitions in the handle, I find that even if you get very flat surfaces it doesn't look as nice as if there were a spacer. That's all for now, hope to have more done tomorrow. Thanks for looking!
  11. I’ve found that if you put the blade between two planks after the quench and stand on it/clamp it you can prevent some of the warping you get with the asymmetric grind.
  12. I haven't had much time for knives lately, but did manage to work in this project. I did it with a team of three other people for an end of semester mini-project for a materials science class. I think this video introduces it pretty well: The knives are made from mild steel carburized with either Cabot seriously sharp cheddar or pecorino romano cheese. We made a total of six. Credit to my friend Ricky for the video editing as well as the design of the knife. This is some of the cheddar after we pyrolized it. Half of the blades were carburized with powdered cheese charcoal and the other half with straight cheese. Both methods yielded similar results. We packed everything in stainless foil pouches and soaked at 925 C for five hours. Unforunately the cheddar charcoal pouch deteriorated and let in air which led to a slightly lower carbon content than the others. We also put a dogbone tensile specimen in each pouch and have some mechanical data I may put in a post in the metallurgy section of this forum. The grinding and polishing was all done with a bench grinder. I still have an un-ground blank I'm going to put a proper grind on in my own shop. Still, for a rush job with people who were just learning how to make knives, I think these turned out pretty good. The handle scales are galalith, a casein based plastic. This greatly increased the dairy content of the knives. The steel is about 0.4-0/5% cheese by weight from my best approximation (again, the materials analysis may have its own thread at some point). This stuff is very soft and brittle and supergluing scales together for drilling ended up to cause a lot of problems. Here's a finished knife. I will probably post better pictures of the one I finish on my own later. Hope you enjoyed!
  13. Also, is it forged or stock removal? I've had trouble in the past drilling forged steel. I decided to make some test coupons (forged 5160), and found that samples which were forged and then left to cool in air were essentially being quenched from contact with the anvil (with bainite and martensite showing up in the microstructure). You can solve this by normalizing all of your knives a few times after all forging (heat up then cool in air, though for some steels like O1, air is too fast if the blade is thin). You can also temper knives after you forge them. I've used a torch to heat the blade until I get a sky-blue color in the area I want to drill. This isn't as easy on drill bits, but it works in a pinch and doesn't form scale on your piece. Hope this helps!
  14. It's hard to tell with the rust on the blade, but I think it was originally beveled all the way on both sides and a pseudo plunge cut was formed from sharpening. Both sides have the effect, but in slightly different places.
  15. It seems like the parts of fit and finish people focused on were different. In these examples it seems like the handles/sheaths received a lot more attention than the blades (though that could just be from rust/resharpening). I like making knives like this too, but there are some cases where I will take some license and clean things up to my own personal standards, mostly relating to blade finish. Its interesting looking at the originals because you notice some ways the ones people make are different now. One big thing is that essentially all of the blades have most or all of the forge scale removed, while leaving it on the flats of the blade appears to be modern. Additionally, the handles all have simple, relatively large shapes. Its hard to tell, but it also seems like the big knives are a bit thinner than the modern leukus a lot of people make, though that could be because these are from Sweden and I'm used to looking at Finnish leukus. Also, speaking of Finland, I found another site you can search for more picutres like this (although I found fewer results). Here is my search for "leuku," the Finnish word for a Sami stuorniibi ("big knife"). That one is pretty neat! It seems like getting that much antler in that big of a size and that good of quality would have been difficult (it certainly would be now), even for a reindeer herder. It might have multiple crowns in it, and some if it may be from moose, though I'm not sure. Those sheaths with a two part liner are really cool too.
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