Jump to content

Aiden CC

Members
  • Content Count

    512
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Aiden CC last won the day on August 26

Aiden CC had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

209 Excellent

About Aiden CC

  • Birthday 04/01/1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

2,026 profile views
  1. Thanks everyone for the replies, I guess there really isn't a ton out there. @Brian Myersthat's interesting about the kiridashi, I may have try one out. I helped a friend make one years ago to use as a marking knife, but haven't touched the style since. I also have come across some kiridashi with handles, pointier ones sometimes called kuri kogatana, which look interesting. Below is an example from an eBay listing for a "tamahagane kiridashi": I have been trying to learn more about the subject, and may consider picking up a copy of "Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradit
  2. Was your thought with the mill to start a slot for the tang then finish it with filing/ drifting? It seems like that might actually involve more hand work than folding the 0.25" copper (though with an accurate drift could be pretty quick). If I were using a mill to help out with a habaki, I might bend a piece into a U, use a 0.250 flat end mill to square up the inside and cut the spine-side notch (mune machi?) as those are two things a mill could do quickly which can be a pain to do with tiny files/cold forming tools. One slightly wacky idea might be to mill out half of the pocket in two piece
  3. There is an abundance of information about Japanese swords, in fact they might be one of the most well studied/appreciated blades in the world, and Japanese kitchen knives have a decent following as well. Because of this, I was surprised to find the relative absence of information about other Japanese "working knives" for things like carving, hunting, and general utility. Japanese axes are an interesting style as well, which also have much less as far as documentation and appreciation (at least that I could find) than European or American axes. Does anyone here know of any good sources to lear
  4. Thank you Kevin it means a lot; a WIP thread of yours was one of the first things I looked at when I started making knives. I find myself doing a lot of projects on the fringes of hobby bladesmithing as far as information and technique go, so I try and document my process to hopefully make it a little easier for the next person. Honestly, I'm beginning to think obscurity is what draws me to a project: it seems like I find a style I like and keep pushing until there's frustratingly little information available, then try to make it. +1 to the beginning of the fall semester being bus
  5. I’ve been gradually working on this a half hour at a time when I can and it’s slowly getting done. The hang went ok, for now I’ll leave the “button” of wood on top. With all the contact and the wedge, I imagine the handle won’t be going anywhere soon. Some saw cuts helped a lot with profiling with a hatchet. I also tool that time to thin out the handle with a hatchet. For now the handle is pretty much as thin as I want it. With no vice, I found a regular knife worked about as well as a draw knife. All that’s left now is to saw and shape the end, clean up the kno
  6. The way I've done this in the past is by completely finishing the profile of the handle while firmly pinnec before glue up, then etching the knife. Then during the glue up, I make sure to clean all of the squeezed out epoxy off the profile with a solvent (I personally like acetone). You probably already do this on the top edge of the scales anyways with full tang knives, though it is more challenging to go all the way around. I think some people also use petroleum jelly to keep epoxy from sticking to surfaces on knives, so that could work here too.
  7. Thanks Rob! I definitely have a long way to go with forging these and I think it will serve as a good way to branch out beyond the "flat and pointy" that has made up most of what I've forged. Ah, that makes sense. I've seen a lot of old axes/hatchets with eyes full of steel wedges, nails, and screws to try and address that shortcoming. I guess forging top tools are sometimes hung with a single taper and no wedge, since the abuse they see would likely lead to rattling if not for some quick way to re-tighten them. Also, on the note of handles, I found some pictures of
  8. The snake head wedge is pretty neat! I can definitely see a no-wedge fit developing enough friction to keep an axe head on, especially with a more gradual taper multiplying the force pressing out on the eye. That kind of friction can transfer a lot of torque in machine tools, and even take some axial loading. The thing I would find worrying is that unlike an hourglass, where the expanding force increases as you pull on the head, or an un-tapered fit (like a chuck or a collet) where the force stays the same until the two are pulled apart, this kind of taper loses holding force as the pieces sli
  9. A small update: Handle fitting is progressing pretty well. I’m now at the point where a “normal” axe this size would be done, but there’s still a bit to go. The “waist” of the hourglass in the eye might me a bit too low, but the eye is far from perfect generally, and it should be serviceable. So far I’m enjoying the draw knife experience, though we’ll see if that’s true after shaping and slimming down the handle.
  10. I’ve been going a little slow on this recently, but I’m still working on it. The axe is actually ground, but I don’t have a picture of it and it’s all packed up now. I’ll be away from my shop for a while, but I made a draw knife and will be hanging and finishing this one out by hand, which I’ve actually wanted to try for a while.
  11. As per Jake's suggestion, I forged the bit down a little more. Looking at my example, it does look like the edge has been sharpened back a ways from where it started out, especially in the toe (which seems a common point of damage for all axes, including the one I usually take to the woods). In the process the pole popped off, which set me back a bit. I had a hard time getting it to stay tacked on for the first welding heat (I'm certainly no welder, but the poor penetration from my $70 flux core machine is probably also part of it), so the remnants of the bead I ran around it before forge weld
  12. Got the poll and bit welded in, and I think the forging is done! There was a tense moment when I dropped the whole head in my water bucket, but it seems like it's ok . The edge bit and poll are 1075, and the whole thing is pretty heavy, so that may have saved it. I'm going to grind the profile a little bit to check the welds, I thing that line coming from the eye is just there because I didn't blend the weld there as well as on the bottom/bit area. The polls on these seem to have lines chiseled around them, though I may do that with a grinder and file. The plan is to do a bir
  13. Thanks @Alan Longmire! It’s good to know that even a good weld would split there with mild. I used the drift to open up the weld more, put some flux with iron dust in it in the opening, closed it with the drift in there, then took a few welding heats. I also welded up the collar, which appears to be good. I started opening up the edge for the bit, and of course that part is welded solid! Would it be cheating to use and angle grinder ? Maybe it’s how hot my shop was, but it was feeling like a lot of work with a chisel! I’ll take better pictures later after I cool off a bit.
  14. Forged another this morning, but failed in essentially the same way. made the preform more like the James Austin carpenter’s axe, was fairly happy with it. Folding took a good bit of force, probably due to the collar. This is where I had the problem. The eye ended up pretty closed to closing and when I went to drift it open, the weld split in the front of the eye. Does anyone have advice on this? I may try splitting this all the way open, cleaning the inside with an angle grinder, then re-welding it. I have enough steel (and possibly time/patience) left for one more, but if
  15. Ah, looking at James Austin's method, and the original piece, I can see where the the over-definition of the collar got me. It wasn't what caused me to scrap the head, but it would have eventually. It looks like the only "sharp" lines on the preform should be surrounding the rectangle isolated for the pole, and in the front of the eye. Another mistake I realized was that the edge of the collar should actually extend a bit past the step for the front of the eye, on my preform they trailed it a little bit. Also, the material I isolated for the pole was a little too big, which made the eye wonky.
×
×
  • Create New...