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Aiden CC

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Everything posted by Aiden CC

  1. I might have to try and find something like that! Though I imagine it might be difficult.
  2. Its very hard to catch on a photo, but using the worn out part at the top of my platen I was able to get a serviceable hollow. It’s a bit ugly, and not the same thickness all the way around (being wider at the spine than the edge, for example), but for a personal knife, it’s ok.
  3. I forged a deba today and forged in a bit of concavity and it worked fairly well. The spine was a bit thick to work cold, so I did it hot. I was able to use the top of my platen to make a hollow, I may clean it up by hand later. Both blades I’ve forged are laminated, the usuba warped, but the deba came out pretty straight, probably since it’s so thick. I won’t have much time for knives for a while, but it may be worth making a curved platen in the future.
  4. That makes sense. I have a Grizzly 2x72 and a lot of what I’ve seen is for the 3 wheel style grinders but I could probably whip something up (though maybe not the cooling part). My platen already has a radius from wear though it’s probably something like 5ft; just enough that it won’t grind straight lines. I have one blade that I’ll probably just finish functionally though not aesthetically, will probably do a show and tell thread, but can put some pictures here too.
  5. I've started to become interested in single bevel Japanese knives, and earlier today I tried out forging an usuba. The forging went alright, but I had a lot of trouble grinding the subtle hollow on the left side of the blade. On relatively narrow blades in the past I've used my 12" contact wheel and held the blade at an angle to get an effectively larger radius, however, on this blade, which is about 1.8" wide, for whatever reason that approach was giving a slightly convex surface. I was able to get a functional surface by starting a hollow in the middle and "rocking" it to the edges, however the finish from that isn't as consistent as I would like, with dips from the corners of the wheel. Does anyone have experience doing a grind like this/have any ideas on how to get better results? Thanks!
  6. Thanks! I’ve been working a lot to wrap up a handful of knives, but finally got it done. I’m a lot happier with the cross section of this one, though I wish I had made the eye a little further back and used that material to make the bit a little longer. Definitely a better chopper than the first one, and after I fixed my drift, the hang went a lot better with no gaps in the eye. It fits in the same sheath, so I may just put another notch in the belt for now.
  7. Got a bit more done today. The handle is roughly fit and shaped. It needs a little cleanup and fit adjustment tomorrow, then I’ll sharpen it and it will be ready to hang and oil. After using my first one a bit, I decided to make this handle a little slimmer and straighter with a larger radius on the palm swell. Definitely two pretty different hatchets.
  8. Got this profiled and heat treated this morning. Profile is basically an American style hatchet with ears and a little beard. Still not sure if I like it. I’ll sleep on it and maybe trim it up, though I’m right at 1.25lb and don’t really want to go lighter. I had some pitting from scale and flux that I mostly ground out, going up to a scotchbrite belt. The edge steel hardened well in warm canola oil and the new oxide blended the ground and pitted portions of the blade nicely. This is it after tempering and a coat of beeswax.
  9. I wasn’t aiming for quite as narrow of a transition as the GB, but that is one of the areas I was thinking about. I’ll probably grind it in a bit, though if I draw it on and it looks like a lot of steel to take off, I may go back in o the forge. I also will probably flatten off the top of the eye, crisp up the ears, and lower the top of the edge (the toe?) a little bit, but still leave it somewhat raised.
  10. You were right, I wrapped up the forging today and it did freak me out after the weld! I think it’s good though. Getting the edge steel fit was a bit harder than I thought, but got it done. I started the weld by hammering the edge , then moved on to the cheeks. After trimming off the extra I ground off the steel and it all looked good to go. It looks disproportionate to me now; the length is good, but I think it’s too tall. I think I’ll grind it shorter around the eye and ears. This one should be a better chopper with thin cheeks and a slightly high centerline. I’m still waffling about whether I’m going to grind it clean. There are a few pits I don’t like (on the pill side of the eye), but also it’s pretty lean. I think I’ll weigh it and see. I’m aiming for 1.25-1.5lb, so I’ll see if I have the meat left to grind it. Would it look terrible to grind it but not go to the bottom of all the pits then blacken it in the heat treat? Update: the head is 1lb, 6 oz as is, so won’t be much extra mass after profiling.
  11. Yeah, I found that the chisel had a lot less resistance than a my punch. It look me less time to do it with a hand hammer and chisel than it did with a punch and a friend with a sledge hammer. Also, I have some .75x1.5” mild steel I could make another drift from, but for now I dressed up my current one:
  12. Yeah, I've been thinking about that. The drift has a bit of that built into it, but its pretty short (the very top 1" or so). I had thought about making a shorter "finishing" drift with parallel sides, but grinding the top of my current one to extend the parallel section might be a better plan. It will also let me fix the wonky bit where I accidentally marred the drift in the hardy hole.
  13. Thanks! The drift is just mild steel. I started with 1.25” round, but that wasn’t enough for the top, so I added some MIG weld to build it up. Here’s to hoping . Basic plan is to use the head as a die of sorts to shape the bit around, set the weld on the edge first, then the sides. Yeah, the extra length was pretty hard to control on the last one. I plan on this hatchet (axe? note really sure in this weight/length range) being a bit thinner near the edge with hopes of it being a better chopper, so hopefully it will come out to a proportionate length for its weight. I’m also not sure if I’m going to leave the forge finish or grind it smooth/make a slightly high centerline, which I guess will depend on how the forging after the weld goes.
  14. Had a bit of time to work on this today. The O1 wasn’t quite big enough, but the crow bar sparked like ~1050-60, hardened alright in oil when thinned our, and worked fine in a welded and quenched test piece with mild steel. It gave me enough meat to make something a little sturdier for the bit. the fish tail I think is a reflection of the hourglass shape of the eye, with the “missing” steel in the middle being in the center of the eye. Made a beefier bit out of the crowbar using a swedge block. I cleaned up the welding surface and scarfed the other side with and angle grinder. I think I’ll end up with just enough material for what I want to do. It’s a bit stubby, but the bit will add some material, and the eye will stretch out a little bit too.
  15. Ah, ok. I'll give that a shot then
  16. Yeah, I was thinking it might be a bit thin. I forged it from 1/4" W2 by hammering the sides until it was somewhat thicker in the middel, beveling both edges, and bending it into a U. I have some thicker stock, but its in the from of O1 drill rod an an old crowbar, which I'm a bit worried about using. I could also build up a piece of 1095 from 3-4 1/8" thick pieces.
  17. Ok, so I may have caught the axe bug... I got a lot of helpful feedback on my first one and want to give it another shot to improve while I still have some time to work. None of the places I thought might have 4140 locally panned out, so this one is going to be welded up from some mild steel and W2 I had laying around. I started the head with a 1.7lb piece of mile steel. The plan is to grind most of the scale off of this one, so starting with some extra mass. I also drilled some guide holes to make slitting it with a chisel easier. The plan is to do an “outie” bit, because it seems fun and like it might be easier to get the weld to close up everywhere. The mild is way easier to forge than 4140 and using a cold chisel like Jake suggested was a lot faster and transitioned to the drift better. Thanks for looking!
  18. That helps reduce the shock on your hands, right? I did get he handle thinner than what you would get on a hatchet from the hardware store, but it's not quite that thin!
  19. The starting stock was 1.5" round (mostly for cost reasons), which I realize now wasn't ideal. It wasn't quite enough to get he shape I wanted out of, but also took a lot of work to flatten out by hand. I found a place locally that I think may have better options for rectangular stock. I may have enough time to try another one before my classes start back up, so I may give it a go with rectangular stock (~1x2"). I'll have to give a chisel a go, that seems a lot easier than forging a new punch! There is marring on the very back of the poll side of the eye is mostly from a burr that got raised on my drift when I accidentally hammered it into the hardy hole, which could be what you're seeing. I used a round file to try and get most of the marks out so it hopefully wouldn't affect the hang. I'll probably end up hollowing out the cheeks and thinning the bit, but I figured I would see how it does for a "season" (most of the wood I process gets knocked down by snow in January-March, which is part of why I wanted to get this done now). I don't have much of a need for chopping (would probably just use a saw), so the extra weight and wedge shape might end up being alright if it's mostly just splitting. I just measured, and it is 1/2" thick 2 3/8" from the edge, which is actually somewhat close to 5:1. I guess it does make sense to have the toe a little bit higher than the top of the eye, I'll probably That makes sense too, my original drawing had a little bit of that, but I ended up losing it in the execution. Thanks for all the design points! Most of the stuff I've been able to find about axes is geared more towards people re-grinding old heads, so its helpful to get advice that applies to forging one from scratch.
  20. This sheath ended up being a pretty significant project! Five different pieces of leather, two rivets, and the buckle from a very worn out shoe. I just have one hole in the belt so far, theoretically I could make more and have this sheath work of larger/smaller axes and hatchets. Buckles are a little weird, but I don't have my snaps/snap setting tools with me. All done, thanks for reading!
  21. Not sure if it's true, but when I was working in a steel mill the summer before last, I heard a story from someone who had previously worked at a different mill about a defect no one could figure out until they saw someone shooting a nail gun into slabs that were still molten off of the caster
  22. Thanks for all the help @Alan Longmire! I just finished hanging the hatchet, and with a wedge made slightly wider than the eye is long, the gap is pretty much gone. I gave it a few practice swings and it splits and carves/hews pretty well, but it seems like it's not too good at cutting across the grain (though I also have little experience doing that with an hatchet). I'll have to use it more and see if that really bothers me, since honestly I would use a saw for that 90% of the time anyways. The gaps in the front of the eye pretty much filled in with the wedge. I have a plain steel wedge I'm considering driving in. Not sure if it really needs it or if I want to potentially split the handle in the eye by hammering more stuff in there, I feel like this is right on the border of weight/handle length where you start seeing metal wedges. I need a break from this now, but I'll probably start on at least the design for a sheath tomorrow. Thanks again everyone for the advice/encouragement!
  23. Ah, that might have been a good plan. The board I got has pretty straight grain/decent orientation. I was able to get through it with a coping saw and some elbow grease: Because fitting the handle to the eye is the highest risk of messing up the handle, I just roughed out the blank before starting that. With1-2 hours of gradually removing material with a rasp/file/sandpaper, the handle finally fits the eye. They eye is a little wonky, making the fit not great on the top, picture below. Turns out that the top of the eye is a bit longer that the bottom, which means that the handle can't fit it perfectly. Could putting in a crosswise metal wedge fix the gap? My other plan is to drive in to thin pieces of hickory to fill the gap so the head doesn't come loose. Also, should I use hickory for the wedge too, or would birch/pine also work? I also forged a few steel wedges, but I'm not sure if they are necessary on a something relatively light like this.
  24. Got the edge ground in, though I may remove a bit more material because I think it probably wouldn't get good depth in chopping with it now. What do you all think? If it just doesn't cut I can always grind the bit thinner. I also have a pattern for the handle drawn up. I'll be making it from a piece of 5/4 hickory, which is way too thick, so I may have my work cut out for me with no power saws to speak of. Over all length is 15" since I think it will give it a bit more power than the 13" I was planning and will still fit in my pack.
  25. Thanks! It's mostly for the stuff my biggest knife (a 10" leuku) feels too light for; removing bark/punky wood from future handle material, splitting/roughing spoon blanks, hammering wooden wedges, supplementing a bow-saw, etc. My guess is 90% of what it cuts will be birch, pine, maple, and oak in that order. I'm worried it will feel a little sluggish for non-splitting stuff, but I guess I can always grind it thinner! That makes sense. I did start on the ears before the drift was all the way home, but earlier would have been better. Do you think its possible my punch could be part of the problem? I didn't want to make one that could just do axes, so it's really more of a hammer-eye punch, so the initial hole isn't really a slit and the drift stretchedthe eye long-wise which may have made it narrower too. I've mostly been studying engineering, but I get a few breaks to bang on steel (my school actually has a forge, which is where I made the punch, drift, and started). I also have some Yakutian knives in the works. The tooling is what kept me from doing this sooner, but it's definitely fun!
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