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Aiden CC

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Everything posted by Aiden CC

  1. Am I seeing things, or does it look almost a short Kclip point on that seax (or maybe just corrosion damage)? Lots of grinding, this time I overcompensated and made the cladding too thick, but I would say I prefer that since you can’t grind the metal back on. A sneak peak at the pattern in this one. I’m pretty pleased with the contrast, the hearth steel component was made from globe elevator nails, which IIRC some have found to be high in P. The splotchiness by the edge is because the blade is wet, though I’m sure it has an auto hamon. I’ll grind it a bit thinner, i
  2. That could be an interesting direction. I may forge the tang out a bit to open up the option of a multi-component handle.
  3. This one seems to have survived the quench, you can sort of see the weld line, I'll give it a test etch at some point. I definitely need to take more off the other side, as the edge steel is only exposed on this side so far. The sound that brine quenches make still spooks me a bit. My first real pattern welding with homemade steel, I decided to keep it simple; just a single twisted bar with hearth steel for the edge and some of the nicer old wrought iron I have for the spine (somewhat better than the anchor chain I've found). A few directions I might take th
  4. I managed to get another two blades started today as well as doing some more work on a pattern welded bar I made a while ago. The sanmai let me down a bit last time, with the cladding not being thick enough and the whole width of the steel exposed. I decided to try chiseling a slot and using a hearth steel wedge instead of flat bar, warikomi I believe. I opted to start with a short, thick billet and draw it out rather than welding close to size. The bar was exactly big enough for a second narrow sax and a small broken back seax. Preforms, t
  5. I just ordered a copy! Between this and a few others I have a lot of reading to do now that I have some time.
  6. Thank you the images and for showing the search, I may used that general format in the future to look for this kind of thing, the results are a lot more "on topic" than searches I've tried. That seems like an interesting book! I may have to pick up a copy at some point, I've been expanding my "knife book" collection a lot recently.
  7. A while ago I looked a bit into the "French butcher knife", though there wasn't a ton of information out there about it. It seems like most of the ones floating around out there are from the early 20th century at the earliest, but I remember seeing a depiction of one in art from much longer ago (13th/14th century?) that looked a lot like the one I ended up making, but I can't for the life of me find it again (kicking myself for not bookmarking it!). Has anyone seen depictions of knives like this or pictures of originals from around that time? Here is the one I made for refere
  8. That is a gorgeous knife, Jake. The thing I'm worried about with my first attempt visually has to do with the blade construction. I welded a sanmai bar onto a wrought iron bar, so the core steel stops approximately 2/3 through the thickness of the blade. On originals, the core steel for this construction appears to be about 1/3-1/2 the thickness of each piece of outer iron, but I made mine too thick, essentially the same thickness as the cladding. In chasing out a part of the weld line I'm worried I got it thinned down to the point that when the grind and polish is done, there will be a few pl
  9. A quick update on the first blade: You can see the different amount of steel exposed on the two sides, I think I can even this up a bit (though I wish I could make both sides look like the first photo). It also looks like there is a hamon, visible in the places where lots of steel is exposed. Hopefully some more to come on these in a few days!
  10. If it cuts how you want then the geometry should be good! For a grind height like that with 1/8” stock you can get away with no secondary bevel (IIRC Mora knives are ~3/32” with a zero grind a bit less than that high). A secondary bevel adds some strength, I would just make sure it does what it will be used for well. The main reason I say this is that for my own whittling knives I love high zero grinds. For the carvings, it’s pretty difficult, but I’m not the best person since I haven’t done too much, and have only used it on finished pieces to decorate flat surfaces for jewelry, etc
  11. Overall it looks nice! Not a super traditional design, but I like it. The hable shaping also looks very controlled and deliberate. One thing I would say is that generally handles with a knob like that are either the same general width/thickness the whole way from the blade to the start of the knob, or have a swell in middle with the blade end being the narrowest part. You can’t do too much about that, though it you wanted, you could cut away from the handle on the edge side to form a pseudo-guard if you want to maintain those proportions, or you could leave it if it feels good to hold as is.
  12. Well, things have taken an interesting turn with this project… Rough grinding seemed to go well, it maybe got a bit thin at the edge, but still 8mm at the spine. Things for a little goofy in the quench though! That’s positive curvature from the brine, and more than I’ve gotten on any tanto. I could probably shorten the blade to fix the profile. It might also be possible to forge some negative curvature in and quench again? The edge is a bit thin though. I might just roll with it, and do a bit of a “fusion” blade, I have some ideas for that too.
  13. I normally do that too, but was wanting to try out two layers of bar like some old swords and seaxes seemed to have (in my case, four bars total with two showing per side) and was worrying that if I used a 3/8” bar that the elongation from squishing a 3/4” stack would stretch out the twists too much, though with the loss of cross section from twisting and cleanup I think 1/4” would be too skinny. That makes a lot of sense. I had a hard time finding a scaled image of this find, and from what I found I interpreted it as having a 45 cm blade, rather than overall length, which seemed
  14. It's been almost five years since I made a seax, and with all the hearth steel slowly making its way through consolidation I figured now would be a good time to start a few. The first is a narrow sax, with the general dimensions inspired by the Nijmegen sax. The raw materials are hearth steel and anchor chain. The first step was to make the san-mai edge bar. The wrought is smaller in both length and width to keep it from creeping over the edge. Next I welded the laminated bar onto a second piece of anchor chain. I can tell my hearth steel has some fight in i
  15. YMMV, but I’ve forged in a fuller like that and cleaned it up with an angle grinder, rotary tool, and sand paper. It was time consuming but it came out well. You can also rough one in with an angle grinder but it’s a bit challenging and I’ve only done that for for narrower ones (1/4-1/2”).
  16. Got some more done with this material and I’m wishing I’d bought a press a year ago! I drew out some 8-fold material to use for a bit of pattern welding, this bar was a remelt and from a mix of cast iron and low carbon scraps from old nails. My pattern welded bar was three layers of hearth steel and four layers of anchor chain. I wanted enough for four 1/4” bars for a broken back seax, I ended up with about twice as much as I needed which was definitely nice. Here is all of my material right now, minus a box of little pieces. The pattern welded b
  17. Is that after just the initial heat of consolidation? If so you’re definitely getting more well consolidated pucks than I am out of the furnace, that looks quite nice! It looks like you have a smaller cross section which I could imagine helps. I did also squeeze one or two of mine before the hottest parts were totally solidified, and I made some mistakes on the press since I’ve never done this step that way before. A single large piece of feedstock (~2.5 lbs) charged vertically has worked far better for me than the same weight of nails/scraps for consolidation though, and the pucks are much mo
  18. Thank you, it means a lot! I'm excited to see how this batch and the last one behave with more folds in some Japanese style blades in the near(ish) future as well. A pretty active auto-hamon was peeking through during polishing, but I wanted more of an etch so it's mostly buried.
  19. This is actually something I struggled with on this one. I have a handful of stencils for different sizes I have been using for the past six months: I still need to find a way to mark "old school" knives like this without something that looks too anachronistic. In the world of google, putting my name means someone can very easily attribute the knife and find my other work, but might seem a bit out of place on something that is trying to look ancient.
  20. I recently did another hearth burn with four runs, all wagon tire sections stuck into the hearth in one piece, about 10 lbs total. All of it looks promising so far, three pucks went straight to the press and one was quenched for examination. I also etched my first piece of this material with ferric chloride for a recent project: This is 8 folds etched in FC with scotchbrite for the oxides, a very different look than what you get from lemon juice and polishing compound. This knife actually has a (very high) hamon, but it’s hard to see. It follows the
  21. This knife is inspired by a number of finds from the Scandinavian Iron Age and made from my own hearth steel (wrought melted down and folded 8 times) with a wrought iron tang. The handle is birch burl and is glued on with shop-made pitch glue, with the tang secured with a small bend. The sheath is inspired by later examples, especially Anglo-Saxon, though there are sheaths like this from many places and periods. The blade is 10 cm, the handle 9.5 cm. Price: $340 US plus shipping PM if interested
  22. Glad there was some interest in this! Also, thank you Alan for the link, I forgot to put one in. Not always the case that these types of book are available so easily. I haven’t had too much time to dig into it but I have a few projects going I hope to get some insight for.
  23. I tried out a different way of securing a tang. I think I made it a bit too thick and maybe a touch too long to fully embed, but I’m pretty happy with it! It’s a wrought iron tang welded onto a hearth steel blade.
  24. I recently picked up this book as part of researching old sheaths. I haven’t gotten a chance to read much of it, but it has a lot of photos, drawings, and some reconstructions of sheaths from the Iron Age up to the seventeenth century, though generally there seems to be more material from more recent periods. Each section contains information about specific finds as well as more general notes about sheaths from that era. There is a decent portion regarding seax sheaths, and sheaths for small knives of the same ear I’m excited to dig into. There is also general information regard
  25. I did four hearth runs, all wagon tire scraps charge as one piece each, stuck vertically in the fire: I also decided to cook a steak! I was skeptical when I first heard of this method, but it’s not a crazy as it looks! No ash really stuck and it mostly just tasted like steak.
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