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Aiden CC

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Everything posted by Aiden CC

  1. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Cory LA 3. Conner Michaux 4. billyO 5. Ted Stocksdale 6. Geoff Keyes 7. Brian Dougherty 8. Pieter-Paul Derks 9. Robert Dowse 10. Gary LT 11. Bruno 12.Jaron Martindale 13. Doug Webster 14: Sean Hollowood. 15. Aiden Carley-Clopton
  2. +1 To Gerald's answer. A quote from one of my professors that has stuck with me is "if you make enough approximations, some of them are bound to cancel out." I've had a lot of luck using the length x thickness x width approximation of a blade, since it happens that the material lost to scale and grinding is just about the same as how much that method will overestimate the steel in the finished blade. You could theoretically get into the weeds of how much material is lost to scale and grinding, but a better method I have found is to write down the stock you started with and see if t
  3. +1 to Alan, would definitely be interested in the video if it's not too much trouble.
  4. Hmm, I'll have to think about this. I would love to figure out how this was welded up, but I also want to keep it as intact as possible for the shape/few traces of original finishing (it looks like pretty much the whole thing was ground/filed smooth at some point). I don't have access to a ton of tools at the moment, but I do have some files and mold makers stones, which I have found bring out weld lines reasonably well. Would polishing up the bit where the original finish has already been hit with sand paper from the looks of it reveal much? It seems like I could potentially tell if the bit i
  5. I’ve been delving deeper into Japanese metalworking lately, and recently I ended up with this axe head. No clue on the age or exact provenance, but it appears to be wrapped rather than punched and drifted as is now the norm, so I figure it’s somewhat older. The way it seems to be put together is different than anything I’ve seen, so I figured I would post it to see if anyone is familiar with how this might have been done. It’s pretty small, only 600-700 g by my guess, and it’s 15 cm long, and 2.2 cm thick at the poll before the mushrooming. It may be ha
  6. Bill, I don’t have any definitive idea of why the top was better, but from the outward appearance, it seems like it was a more liquid, or at least very hot and soft, than the bottom at some point, which it seems would facilitate it being both higher carbon and more homogenous than the earlier stuff. It may be that the fire was still developing and improved throughout the charges, or was somehow altered by the buildup of a puck. Another thing in my case is that I did all of this at ~5000 ft, though not sure if thinner air (~17% less effective oxygen content) really matters for a s
  7. Yes, I have found Jim Kelso’s tutorials very helpful throughout this process. His work is actually one of the things that inspired me to give this a try. I think my main issues have been an uneven cavity bottom and little gaps in some parts of the lip. I have yet to get anything to stick securely enough to do any significant carving on it, but plan to keep at it.
  8. One of my projects this winter was putting together a setup for hammer-and-chisel engraving, carving, and inlay. After I got all the tooling done, the first project I made was this jewelry box as a holiday gift for my girlfriend. It is loosely inspired by “mirror lid” netsuke, and is made from the trunk of a small cherry tree with a shibuichi medallion on the lid. The design is a stylized hawk moth. The ingot (right in the top photo) was cast into water then hammered out to make the lid. I chose to use 20% silver, the rest is copper. Definitely a stee
  9. Similar word origin, though not sure if a level up; I used a fairly coarse cut file and a good bit of mallet work
  10. I got distracted by some other projects, and the wood for the handles still hasn’t arrived, but I did finish one of the Natas today. The idea behind the handle is to have a slot a bit smaller than the tang at the top and the same size at the bottom. This keeps the ferrule on. I started it with a drill and saws, then refinéis it with a file. This is the ferrule fit up. That gap is so that the tang can open up the slot. The wood under the ferrule is tapered and once the tang is in, the wood makes an hourglass shape and retains the ferrule. Here are
  11. Fortunately, not quite that tough. It's for my stepdad to use in his garden. Lots of work close to/in the ground, around bricks and concrete, and with the distinct possibility of getting left out every now and then. A little grinding, then ready for heat treat. The ono had some uneven spots around the eye, so I had to take off a good bit of steel. Didn't get 100% of the hammer marks, but it all blended nicely with the scale from heat treatment. I didn't show this before, but the nata is concave on the left side to make it easier to sharpen. Also not shown, I forged the tang o
  12. Been a while, but finally got after some wood with it! Had some knotty firewood that the hatchet didn’t have the weight or length for. Wasn’t quite short work, but made it through! My stump is pretty low (and kind of rotten), so the handle wasn’t quite long enough to stand while doing this. For the thick, short handle, I barely felt any shock from some pretty heavy blows that came to hard stops at knots, I would buy that the birch handle has some benefits as far as absorbing energy. No real over-strikes, but rubbing on the collar shows that it did actually protect the handle a few time
  13. Finished the forging on the first two of these today! I added the decorative lines to the ono, four on one side and three on the other. I haven’t found a great explanation for these, but I’ll keep looking. They are pretty common on originals. The nata has a small issue blade-rang junction that came from forging the shoulder in too sharp too early. I overestimated the loss to forge scale (or underestimated my fortune speed), so I had to cut a lot (more than 200 g) of steel off to get the blade weight down. I got a second one ready to weld as well, starting with a smaller blank made i
  14. Did a run today with decent results. I used a bigger vacuum to get more air and added in a ball valve to adjust the air: The set up is still a little bush league, but affords much more control. Feedstock was 910 g of 1018 divided into six roughly equal charges. Here it is once the fire was going. The fire was nice and hot all the way down when it was started. The time it took the charcoal to burn down after each charge was: Test: 2:40 1: 2:45 2: forgot to start stopwatch 3: 3:00 4: 2:30 5: 2:44 6: 3:20 Just charco
  15. Thanks for the tips Emiliano! I just chopped the charcoal to do another run today. I’ve been pretty lazy with the plumbing so far, but it seems like I need more control over the air like Alan and you mentioned, so I’m going to put a ball valve in to throttle the air like you recommended. Is the ball valve set up between the shop vac and tuyere, or does it serve as an adjustable vent? I guess vacuums are meant to run for a long time partially or fully obstructed, though I would imagine closing the valve too much for too long might be bad for the vacuum. Starting with know feed stock i
  16. @Gary LT, I’m using propane for this. As for flux, I usually use laundry borax with fine results but got some Iron Mountain to try out for these ones. I believe it was Owen Bush who recommended it and pointed out the similarities to the flux used in Japanese cutlery making (you can see the iron powder mixed in in a lot of videos). I’ve been having a lot of fun with rectangular eyes. In a different project, I used a similar drift to make a set of cold forging hammers for non-ferrous work and a tiny punch/drift combo to make engraving hammers:
  17. Here are the tools I used, Gary: The drift has a 15x38 mm cross section where it evens out. The big blue chisel is for opening the eye and the red one for opening the bit. The reason for opening the bit early is to save time chiseling. I think I first saw in an old video of a Japanese smith making one of these, and have seen it a few mor places as well. The idea is that you only have to cut about half as deep as you would if you waited until after drawing out the bit/cheeks since the cut parts get drawn out too. Thinning out the edges of the split also means that they will weld more
  18. Got some more work done on these today. I often do some cutting/grinding to prep pieces for welding, this time as an exercise I'm going to try to do everything hot. This is a big piece of steel! I may have left a bit too much extra material. I may end up having to forge it long and cut some off the end. The ono head after finishing the chiseling for the bit. Then I forged it back closed and continued to draw out the cheeks and shape around the eye. I called it for today when I got both pieces ready to weld the steel edges. The nata is goin
  19. After a very busy fall, I have some time to forge again. I have a bunch of projects in the works, this thread is for some that I started today. A few months ago I fell down the rabbit hole of Japanese metalworking, both ferrous and non-ferrous. On the iron and steel side two tools caught my eye: the ono (a Japanese axe) and nata (either a thick knife or a thin hatchet). Got together all of the materials for these a while ago, and started hammering them out today! I've tried using punches for hammer and axe eyes, but I have found that working alone without a power hammer/press
  20. Thanks for all the advice Alan, this is definitely a learning process! I'm glad I got enough material off the bat to do four runs. I started the fire fairly small in the bottom and gradually built it up to try and avoid incomplete burning, but it may still be an issue. After the second or third charge, I looked through one of the gaps between the bricks and could see glowing coals all the way down, but the air flow in this furnace is pretty odd, so I could imagine a cold spot under the steel if it globs together and forms an obstruction. It might even be the case that the air was d
  21. After the first few folds and a round of spark test comparisons, it looks like it averaged out to somewhere around mild steel. Definitely more than it started with, and a step in the right direction, but still needs some work. I may keep folding this to get some low carbon bar and do some kind of composite, but definitely need to do a few more runs. From what I can tell, the puck may need to settle further down in the furnace? There was a considerable layer of charcoal under it this time. I think I may try letting the charcoal burn down a little further before adding the steel and fi
  22. Thanks for the tip on using a shop vac Alan, I did a run today with more air from a vacuum and got a better puck. Definitely a bigger and hotter hot spot this time. The puck wasn’t really sitting on the floor though. Lower than last time though. I could only find one piece, so it seems like everything consolidated pretty well. The bottom side sparked like low C/wrought but the top had nicely branching sparks. Seems like it should be the other way around, but I’ll take it! The billet after initial flattening and then after four fo
  23. Back in October I decided, for whatever reason, that I wanted to try making some hearth steel. I looked around the forum and elsewhere and the method that @Emiliano Carrillo has shown a couple of times seemed the most doable for me, with the benefits of not needing to muck around with clay as well as making a furnace with pretty good reusability. My goal is to get enough material for a tanto, which I figured might take about 4 lb of starting material. I set up and ran the furnace this morning, here is the setup: One thing, is that I think that my air supply is not ideal for this. Th
  24. It's been kind of traditional the last few years to have a thread for all of the completed submissions. Our adjusted and final deadline is Monday the 30th this year. Please add your name to this list so that the lovely Dr. King (Alan's better half) can draw the names! Pics are nice too 1. Brian Dougherty 2. Gary LT 3. Aiden Carley-Clopton Had to do some last minute repairs to the lacquer and make a quick seppa, but it's all ready to go!
  25. Thanks everyone for the replies, I guess there really isn't a ton out there. @Brian Myersthat's interesting about the kiridashi, I may have try one out. I helped a friend make one years ago to use as a marking knife, but haven't touched the style since. I also have come across some kiridashi with handles, pointier ones sometimes called kuri kogatana, which look interesting. Below is an example from an eBay listing for a "tamahagane kiridashi": I have been trying to learn more about the subject, and may consider picking up a copy of "Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradit
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