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Aiden CC

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Everything posted by Aiden CC

  1. Got the two little ones hardened today and did some forging on my last day before online classes start up. Two Sakha style knives. The big one will be hollow ground on one side and flat on the other (like Japanese single bevel knives, but with the opposite handedness), the little one is curved so I can file in a fuller before I straighten it and chisel/file in the other ornamentation. I'm realizing this is a lot of knives to have going at once, but honestly I'm a bit scattered at the moment. Plus, I'm going to need a lot to work on to fill the extra time for the n
  2. I'll have to give some of that a read. Scrolling through it, I think at least one of the drawings looks familiar. A little while ago I managed to trace back copy-pasted text/images to this article (http://ilin-yakutsk.narod.ru/2002-1/56.htm) which seems fairly academic and has a list of sources as well. Definitely leaves some details out that would be helpful to a knifemaker, but it seems like that's often the case in pieces by historians/ethnographers/archaeologists.
  3. Made a bit of progress on these. The having a mild steel tang made a huge difference in the ease of riveting. The blade never slipped in the vice, the rivet didn’t crack, and it took about 1/4 of the time. Definitely worth the little bit of extra effort to forge weld it on. Got these ground and filed in the shoulders. This is definitely a unique geometry. I may test out how they are at drilling by using them to make their sheaths/the one for the leuku.
  4. After asking about all-wooden sheathes in the thread below, I fell down a rabbit hole researching different knives from the far North. I have a few projects started in that vein, and I'll add any new ones here as I start them. The first one is a 20 cm leuku I just glued a handle on. Now that I have that small axe I made in December, I find that there isn't a niche for my 25cm leuku anymore (not as good at chopping as an axe, and the weight/edge geometry aren't great for fine work). This one is meant to be a bit lighter with a keener edge so it can actually carve.
  5. It depends on what kind of knife it is. If the cutting edge stops before the start of the handle (like when there is a ricasso or choil) then I sharpen after everything else is done to avoid working on a sharp knife, which is the main downside of sharpening earlier. With knives where the edge goes all the way to the handle, I sharpen the blade first since I won't be able to reach the part right next to the handle once it's all together. In that case you have to be a bit more careful to not damage the edge or cut yourself.
  6. Am I correct that there are different words for the two different kinds of burl in Russian (something like "suvel" for the smooth one and "kap" for the spiky one)? I managed to track some down for sale, and also have been lucky enough to find a dead birch tree with a large burl of the second kind at the roots (though unlucky in that half of it is riddled with beetle holes). It seems like on a lot of modern replicas, like the ones by Nikolay above, use curly/Karelian birch instead of burl. My personal theory is that "back in the day" when people had access to large plots of forest
  7. Looking at the photos I've seen, I came up with a rough drawing to make one of these. The examples I've seen tend to have handles made from straight grained wood or antler, but I have some birch root burl which I think is done drying I might use. It's a pretty common material for a lot of knives from similar styles (Sami and Sakha), so it seems entirely possible there are examples that use it. Also a speculation as to the direction of asymmetry: if the knives are used for a lot of boring, having a flat left side and beveled right side gives the edge of the knife a bit less ne
  8. I have one that I sharpened like a pencil for cleaning up solder joints which also works fairly well for epoxy (especially if you catch it while it’s still “green”)
  9. Ok, so I may have fallen down another rabbit hole... It seems like with many old/geographically specific styles of knives the modern re-designs are much easier to find than originals. When researching Sakha knives, it seemed to me like most people are making copies of copies. In this case, it seems like the style is even less documented. Do you know if these knives are typically ground asymmetrically? In some of the images I've found it seems like that may be the case, though the ones above all look "left handed," at least compared to Sakha knives, with the bevel ang
  10. Thanks everyone for the insight and examples! I think I'll probably go ahead with the wood version of the sheath, I should have some time in the next few weeks. I'll definitely make a thread about it. I can see what you mean about the different layers in the picture I posted, I haven't worked with a ton of antler. It seems like the knives I gravitate towards are the ones that are difficult to learn about/see in person, which definitely makes stuff like this difficult. I thought I had seem something like this in sheaths/sheath liners from knives further East. Those
  11. I'm not sure if I'm convinced that the material is antler. There are a number of examples, and the color fairly uniformly is brown, notably in the second example below which also has antler of presumably a similar age in the handle. The last image below also has what looks like wood grain showing down the center. I think I've put it in a thread somewhere else, these images are from the Swedish Digital Museum (https://digitaltmuseum.se/search/?aq=topic%3A"Lapska föremål %3A Personlig utrustning %3A Knivar"&o=0&n=416). Definitely a case where I really wish I could see these things in per
  12. I've been wanting to make another leuku for a while and will probably do a semi-reproduction of this one: It seems like pretty much all of the leukus from the collection this one is in have a sheath with either the entire inner portion made of wood covered partially or entirely with leather, or a lower portion made from two pieces of antler riveted together. I will probably opt for the former to keep the cost of materials from getting too high. When I dug a little further, I noticed that the wooden sheaths tend to be made in a rather peculiar way: it looks like instead of spli
  13. I've sat out for the past few KITHs, but this one seems cool enough I might just have to make some room in my schedule for it!
  14. Yeah, that makes sense. From the article I found it seems like they may drill a large round hole and burn it oval with a form or something, but that's a bit more than I want to do for this project. I'll also look for some hide glue. Thanks!
  15. I recently have gotten interested in Japanese cutlery and am now thinking about handles. I made a deba blade that I put a quick all wood handle on just to test it out (which cracked during the installation), but I want to replace it with a wood and horn one (such as shown here: http://fxcuisine.com/default.asp?language=2&Display=241&resolution=hhigh&page=2). I have alder for the wood and water buffalo horn rolls to make the ferrule. Has anyone made this kind of handle? It seems like a lot of people do a stacked handle instead of a true ferrule, but due to the difficulty of working
  16. That makes sense. The radius is what I was mostly worried about as far as fabrication. Might have to go with mild steel though, as anything hardenable in that size is going to be pretty expensive new. There's a local supplier that has had odd sizes of stuff from drops etc, but it seems like alloy steel that big usually comes round. I've had decent luck with case carburizing/hardening, which might actually be applicable here. Is the extra width on your platen just from how the bearing was, or is it helpful in grinding?
  17. I'll keep my eyes open for parts like that, though I may end up taking the principle (thick piece of steel, large radius, short arc length) and try to cook something up myself. Might be too out there, but it seems like laying a bunch of weld beads on one side of a piece of steel would warp it into a circular arc while also adding mass. I might be able to do some math and see if that is feasible. Milling might be an option, but would turn this into a very time intensive project and I already have a lot of machining to do in the next few months for another project.
  18. I would imagine! Do you have an idea what it came from originally?
  19. I might have to try and find something like that! Though I imagine it might be difficult.
  20. Its very hard to catch on a photo, but using the worn out part at the top of my platen I was able to get a serviceable hollow. It’s a bit ugly, and not the same thickness all the way around (being wider at the spine than the edge, for example), but for a personal knife, it’s ok.
  21. I forged a deba today and forged in a bit of concavity and it worked fairly well. The spine was a bit thick to work cold, so I did it hot. I was able to use the top of my platen to make a hollow, I may clean it up by hand later. Both blades I’ve forged are laminated, the usuba warped, but the deba came out pretty straight, probably since it’s so thick. I won’t have much time for knives for a while, but it may be worth making a curved platen in the future.
  22. That makes sense. I have a Grizzly 2x72 and a lot of what I’ve seen is for the 3 wheel style grinders but I could probably whip something up (though maybe not the cooling part). My platen already has a radius from wear though it’s probably something like 5ft; just enough that it won’t grind straight lines. I have one blade that I’ll probably just finish functionally though not aesthetically, will probably do a show and tell thread, but can put some pictures here too.
  23. I've started to become interested in single bevel Japanese knives, and earlier today I tried out forging an usuba. The forging went alright, but I had a lot of trouble grinding the subtle hollow on the left side of the blade. On relatively narrow blades in the past I've used my 12" contact wheel and held the blade at an angle to get an effectively larger radius, however, on this blade, which is about 1.8" wide, for whatever reason that approach was giving a slightly convex surface. I was able to get a functional surface by starting a hollow in the middle and "rocking" it to the edges, however
  24. Thanks! I’ve been working a lot to wrap up a handful of knives, but finally got it done. I’m a lot happier with the cross section of this one, though I wish I had made the eye a little further back and used that material to make the bit a little longer. Definitely a better chopper than the first one, and after I fixed my drift, the hang went a lot better with no gaps in the eye. It fits in the same sheath, so I may just put another notch in the belt for now.
  25. Got a bit more done today. The handle is roughly fit and shaped. It needs a little cleanup and fit adjustment tomorrow, then I’ll sharpen it and it will be ready to hang and oil. After using my first one a bit, I decided to make this handle a little slimmer and straighter with a larger radius on the palm swell. Definitely two pretty different hatchets.
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