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Aiden CC

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Everything posted by Aiden CC

  1. I believe this is silver maple, so I'll expect some movement. The sealer I found is a wax suspension, and I applied a liberal coat, so hopefully it works. My college owns a plot of woods and any dead wood is fair game, and I've found some neat spalting in standing-dead trees and stumps, particularly in an elm tree cut down by beavers. When I cut it open on the bandsaw, a bunch of ants poured out, which was pretty shocking to say the least, definitely a disadvantage of found wood . The nicest wood I have found was a piece figured ash, but it's still drying. I also recently found some cu
  2. Yeah, I can see how bugs could be a bad time. I was hoping the bark would peel off like some other wood I’ve worked with, but it took a bit more work. Also, decided to cut off a few smaller blanks so I can start working with this stuff a bit sooner. Also, when I was cutting this I broke a saw blade (one of the thin Japanese style ones) because of binding in the wood, and I went to a wood working supply stood and got a replacement plus some end grain sealer. Also, a neat effect in the root wood, with some natural staining, possibly from minerals in the soil, making for a
  3. A neighbor’s tree got blown over recently (a big maple), and they let me cut up some of the stump. I saw some curly grain at the break by the root so I cut two large pieces from there and one from the root. The middle of the tree was rotted out, so the pieces are about 3” thick. Basically, my question is how should I set this up to dry to minimize checking/other damage. Warping isn’t that bad, since it isn’t straight anyways. Should I cut it into smaller pieces? Remove the bark? Square off/seal the ends? I’ve dried wood a few times before, but always in smaller pieces s
  4. It probably depends on how you define big. The mill I interned at last summer made a lot of long products (coils) and since most of them were over 15 tons, each melt was very large, and the melt was done with an electric arc furnace. I was in the hot mill, not the melt shop, so I'm not sure as to the exact size, but the melt shop gantry cranes which carried the ladles were rated for several hundred tons.
  5. Great job, especially for a first! My college just got a CNC milling machine and learning how to use it I've really gained an appreciation for the time that goes into programming a part, let along making something as complicated as a whole knife. From what I can tell, pretty much anyone using a ball end mill for roughing cleans up with a belt sander afterwards. Alex's advice about sanding before heat treat is solid. Steel is much more abrasion resistant after hardening, especially when it has additional carbide formers added. Depending on how much of the surface needs to be removed, a
  6. That's it for the most part. Slip joints are the knives that benefit the most from liners resisting forces applied to pins, with lock-backs having similar forces, but to a lesser degree (much lighter springs, you could probably get away with out liners depending on the scale material). Liners also act as a durable bearing surface for smoother action (though washers are often used for this instead).In addition to forces from the mechanism, there are additional forces from use. With friction folders, the tang pushes the pin into the thicker part of the handle perpendicular to it, whereas forces
  7. I’ve been working on my Swiss Army Knife project and ended up having to re-make the springs (one broke because of bad geometry so I figured I should re-make both). I’m currently setting the spring pre-load before I send them out for heat treat (steel is CPM 154), and I was thinking about how hardening will change how they flex. Basically, my question is: does hardening actually have any significant effect on the weight of a spring? If I understand it correctly, in most cases hardening doesn’t change the Young’s Modulus, so it seems like it wouldn’t change the weight of a spring, just how
  8. Ok. I think red paper micarta/phenolic (same thing?) might be what I go with. It seems like you can’t really see the layers in a knife handle so it should look similar to the originals.
  9. That's an unfortunate trade off. It seems like composites made with phenolic resins are fairly resistant to solvents and also bond reasonably with epoxy (something like this: https://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ph641.htm). I have only made one two knives with phenolic (G10) scales/liners and both of them sold a while ago, so haven't had much experience with the long term effects of anything on them.
  10. Did you have any problems with it being dissolved/cracked by acetone? Acetone is my go-to solvent for cleaning epoxy off after glue-up, so ideally I’m looking for something that doesn't crack/fog up from being cleaned with the stuff (which may be a tall order from a plastic).
  11. As some of you may know, I started a Swiss Army Knife build last march. I finally have enough time that I might be able to do it justice, and one of the things I left off on was picking/purchasing handle material. At the moment I'm torn between sticking to the traditional red-glossy plastic (probably nylon, although I haven't been able to track down any red nylon sheet, so another plastic may have to do), the same thing in black (Victorinox makes some in black that look pretty slick and black nylon is much easier to find), or picking some other material and giving it bet of
  12. For me, not much deeper (I'm going to anneal a few samples to look at recrystalization and then move on to steels), but there's certainly a lot of other stuff I could look at here. This is a micrograph of sample at 50% reduction, viewed parallel to the rolled surface. You can see some grain elongation, but not as much as in the next image. This is a closer image, and I just realized I forgot the scale bar but its 5x higher magnification than the one above. It is also looking at the cross-section instead of the top, and I think the reduction is somewhat more apparent.
  13. Tear out could make sense, this stuff is pretty soft. Here are the bulk samples/one of the mounted sections: This stuff is really pretty, especially out of a water pour. I polished/etched some more rolled samples this morning, I’ll get some pictures up when I have more time.
  14. This semester I've been working with some of the MatSci faculty at my school to do a metallurgy focused independent study (half a class worth of science credit to learn about metals processing and analysis). The first part of that has been learning about phase diagrams, and for that I decided to use a copper-silver system since its a binary eutectic system and has some interesting micro-structures. I chose a composition the base shibuichi composition of 75% copper, 25% silver, and also decided to try a pour into cloth stretched over a bowl in a bucket of water (a traditional Japanese technique
  15. That’s really interesting! I had always thought of pins as being meant to deal with forces in line with the tang, but I can see how they can relieve some of the strain near the blade end of the handle when the blade is in bending as well. Also, wouldn’t really consider it a hijack, definitely an interesting conversation. In other news, instead of waiting for a sunny day for pictures in New England in the Fall, here is my “replica”: The blade was an experiment in that after forging it was only made using the contact wheel on my grinder and a buffing wheel, the goal being to emul
  16. Wow, totally missed these replies! That's a really cool knife. It's interesting how sharp the front edge of the handle is. I've seen that on a few other old knives, but its cool that it goes back so far. I have a knife inspired by one of the puukkos I posted pictures of I'll post pictures of when I have good light. I also bought an old puukko that looks a lot like this (though not nearly as old and in similar shape), that I hope to make a replica of. It's true that a lot of old knives have relatively poor fit and finish by modern standards, but there are definitely examples of knives w
  17. Now that I think about it, mushrooms are probably one of the least demanding things to cut. No busch whacking with this one! My hope is that 50 is soft enough to drill with questionably sharp HSS bits since that's pretty much all there is here (though the shop staff did give me water-jet time to make fillet knives, I could probably borrow a nicer bit if none of the cheap ones work).
  18. It's been a while since I started a new project (was out of state over the summer for an engineering internship at a stainless steel mill in KY), and now that I have access to some tools again, I'm trying to get a bit back into knife making. I'm currently helping my girlfriend make herself a mushroom knife and I ran into a bit of a metallurgical question. The material in question is 0.40" 65Mn, which as its name implies has 0.62-0.70% C with 0.90-1.20% Mn. It is left over from another project (making the reader for a music box) and is pre-hardened. I measured the hardness and it is right aroun
  19. I looked a bit, and it seems like finding opaque, red, polycarbonate might be difficult. I definitely want something tough. I may try and make some at some point, that could be fun for sure. I may end up getting a few different options. I had definitely thought about doing jigged bone and stainless bolsters, but I want to try the hidden rivet blocks like Victorinox does. I do have some jigged bone and antler sitting around (I don't think the stag would really match the look). My concern about bone is that it isn't as tough as a synthetic would be, and without bolsters, the ends
  20. I'm getting to the place where I need to start thinking about the covers for the handle, and was wondering if anyone has any input (I may make a new thread for this question in design and critique). I have a lot of woods, but I think a synthetic handle would be more in line with the "philosophy" of the knife as tough and low maintenance. I have some black G10 scales as well as blue and white liner material, but would definitely be open to other suggestions. Red paper micarta is possibly the closest thing to the originals, and might look more SAK than the texture of G10. I'll take a pictur
  21. That would make sense. Sheet metal forming takes pretty specialized tools and thick pieces of brass are likely cheaper/easier to get now that they used to be. I was interested in the shift in style, since I’ve seen a lot of pictures of old styles, and lots from the past 10-15 years, but not much from what led from one to the next. Maybe because the old ones are antiques and the new ones were made when the Internet was prominent. Thank you! I believe wedges were only used sometimes, I’m not sure what would cause them to be used on some knives but not others. I haven’t seen very many ex
  22. As some of you may know, I've been interested in puukkos for a while, with them probably being my all time favorite knife to make. When I started out, I looked almost exclusively at contemporary examples with the "standard" pattern of wood/birch bark sandwiched between two pieces of 1/4" brass and a blade the same width as the handle with the shoulders seated square against the handle. More recently, I've become interested in original examples from the past few centuries and have noticed that they rarely follow the general design people tend to make today. Overall, I'm wondering if anyone know
  23. I've wondered why my tar came out hard instead of liquid, and from what I can tell its that all of the moisture and turpentine was driven off. As far as I know, historic pine tar was essentially a thick liquid, and that when we made it there was an excess of heat/oxygen which burned or boiled off the liquids. Some of the old setups for making liquid tar had a drain pipe to take the runoff away from the heat source to avoid drying it out.
  24. Thanks! If your tar is liquid rather than hard, you could also mix it with turpentine and linseed oil, or even use it on its own, for a nice finish. That was my plan, but mine turned out too thick for that.
  25. Shoot, I didn't think of that! There are some marshes I could've found some in . My school does a yearly charity auction, and I may end up making a paring knife with the same materials for it. After getting everything, it was a pretty quick to actually make the knife.
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