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Cody saldivar

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  1. also can't wait to see what jerrod has to say about the saw blade chemistry
  2. wow. I am glad this topic came up on here, and thank you jake for shedding more light on this rather little known topic (as for me and the average person). I read the link you posted and was blown away (as I ALWAYS am with our ancestral cultures in the past) that simple rocks were used to cold forge steel is monumental. I have never understood why or how our current collective outlook is that we as people NOW are superior or more advanced than civilizations in the past. when one simply looks over the world there are vast examples of monumental achievements. any of the pyramids (which are found all over the world). coral castle in florida, cusco peru, all over mexico and south american in fact, the forging in greenland with stones, native americans you name it pretty much every culture has something exemplary of advanced technology and extreme connection to the universe (the Dogan tribe in africa knew about sirius B, a star that was unknown about until the telescope was invented as it was not seen with the human eye yet the Dogans had worshiped it long before telescopes were a thing. There are many ruins (for lack of a better word) that we still to this day cannot recreate using any and all of our modern instruments and machinery. moral of the story is that there are so many hidden gems that we as people can and should learn even if for nothing more, a better understanding. again this is a great discussion, thanks all for sharing. Gerald i hope you don't feel singled out, to me it just seems like your post triggered a thought and so it was used to add a little more to the discussion.
  3. I'm not too familiar with the geology of Inuit landscape but my first guess would be that perhaps the blades were made with bone, and then later adapted to steel. I have seen some side by side comparisons of bone knives to obsidian and they can cut pretty close to the same, I've even heard of bone being a smoother slicer but I'm sure all of this hinges on the skill of the maker. Very fascinating stuff. I do have a question though about the saw blade your using. Have you already seen how the saw blade will harden? I have heard and read on here that a lot of newer table saw blades and don't harden as well as knives require and it would be a bummer to put all the time and effort into something that can't get hard enough to hold an edge properly. Just thought I'd ask. You might also ask jerrod miller on here as he knows a tremendous amount on the chemistry of steels and weather they would be usable or not for blades And lastly........my girlfriend said the same thing when I made my first ulu and now she is the proud owner (had no choice but to turn it over) Make your wife one. She will cherish it I'm sure. It's always interesting to me how drawn to ulus women are and their not even sure why. I guess 6500+ years is a pretty long time and perhaps its embedded into our genetic code
  4. The bottom photo was stock removal and the first one I ever made. The rest are forged and I prefer forging over grinding. I try to avoid grinding as much as possible these days and the top three saw little to no grinding believe it or not. It might be a little more difficult to forge but I'd suggest that as the rewards will be greater for you in the end.
  5. This is good advice as are the other comments here. Many ulus found on the web are mass productions and are not made with any regard to functionality. I'd narrow my searches of ulus to traditional ulus or Inuit ulus as you will find more accurate info and functional design. Traditionally they were a woman's knife for processing meat and have a single bevel grind. I use crosscut saw blades to make mine and I have never made one with finger holes and personally I don't find them comfortable when they are open windowed like some of the photos you posted. However I do use a curvature similar to ones you posted but they seem to work great. HT can be a bear as mentioned due to thin steel but it can be done. Normalizing cycles are helpful then You can softly straiten cold, quench, temper and straighten through your tempering cycles to ensure a good finished product. Here are a few I've made recently if that helps with design and shape. Happy hammers
  6. This is an inspiring project, and thanks for posting that video. I think I might try to take on a project like this in the near future. I commend all the people around the world for mastering their craft with even with third world limitations it is truly impressive.
  7. that is a good idea too. and thanks for the deeper details of metal production that stuff is super interesting to me though usually over my head.
  8. awesome thank you guys for the suggestions. I'm going to try the can of water method. i do have a torch so I'm set. as far as steel...... I'm using drag saw blades and i have not fully determined what it is exactly. It seems to harden very well but it definitely does not air harden as i tried the snap test on it a while back. according to some spark test diagrams it may have magnesium in there judging by the sparks, but i don't know this for sure. thanks again guys.
  9. I have ran into an interesting situation. Im making a skinner that has been through forging, normalizing, quench and tempering. I ran into my problem when trying to drill holes for the handle scales. I was able to drill through the steel on the pummel end of the tang but wasn't able to drill through the bolster area of the handle. I am using a double fluted bit that is made for drilling hardened steel ,yet despite using cutting oil I ruined my bit, so I now have 1.5 out of 2 holes drilled and it looks something like this........ so anyway I am realizing now that the handle was hardened (due to not waiting long enough before full submersion) and became hard as well and now the steel is too hard to drill through which is my problem. i need to get holes drilled for handle scales and I'm thinking about normalizing then repeating HT process and tempering before moving on to finishing the handle. please let me know if there are things to watch out for such as grain growth or decarb ect. any tips warnings suggestions on how to approach this would help greatly. Ideally id like to get the holes for the handles drilled and keep the grain just how it is as everything seemed to have turned out pretty perfectly other than the handle being a little too hard to drill through. thanks in advance for any tips and suggestions, everyone on this forum is so helpful, thanks all
  10. nice work. though you may feel like your not up to par with others on here (nor am I) i thought id drop in and pay some respect. i like the dark walnut handle with the brass. i am currently working on some knives and thought about posting them for sale here but have had similar feelings to yours. how could i compete, but everyone starts somewhere. here is something i found the other day and my head exploded. hope it too can be inspiring and not discouraging. im not too into swords but this one is exceptional. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32228&hl=
  11. wow. i am in awe! until now i have not found myself really attracted to swords much but there are exceptions to every rule and rules to every exception. your sword is truely amazing and it has made me reconsider why im not drawn to swords. fantastic work on all levels.
  12. Cool deal. Well I really appreciate the help and added direction. I'm going to roll with it and also start collecting things I know the make up of. By the way I checked out your web page and dig your work. I like the description of why you do what you do. Cheers and thanks again
  13. Well I'm having trouble uploading photos of grain structure but I did some spark tests and in contrast with the link you sent me geoff the Sparks look more to me like the manganese steel. That being said I'm fairly new to spark testing but the diagrams help tremendously and as I said the Sparks I got look more like the manganese spark diagram. Correct me if I am wrong on this. Here are some spark photos again of the 2 saws I have been testing. The first 3 photos are one saw and the last 3 are the other.
  14. Thanks geoff. I did do a quench in canola oil and it hardened and snapped with ease. The structure inside is fine grain. I'll pull out my good camera out and take a few photos of the pieces I tried air hardening and the piece I oil quenched. I'll be back with photos a little later today. And I'll check the link you sent me.
  15. So I know that there is room for variation but I'm curious if anyone has tested crosscut and or drag saws? I recently got quite a few of them and am now on the hunt for narrowing down what kind of steel they are made from. I thought maybe L6 but I did an air hardening and then put in the vice and was hoping for it to snap but instead it bent. The spark it makes is very full with bursts on just about every tail and fairly bright. Any help in identifying these would be great. I'm also curious if anyone has or if there are any data sheets of steels and their compositions that can be cross referenced with the data posted in this thread?
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