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Rafał Garbacik

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Rafał Garbacik last won the day on August 18 2017

Rafał Garbacik had the most liked content!

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About Rafał Garbacik

  • Birthday 10/02/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Jaslo, Poland
  • Interests
    Ancient celtic reenactment, scrimshaw

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  1. Thank you guys Now I roughly grinded the surface and marked the top line of hawk Then I cut and grinded to that line, and marked shape of it And now I started work with file, I improved the shape of eye and cut the mark for the chevron Using angle grinder I roughly cut the chevron shape, and then using a file I finished it And after the 80 grit sandpaper Enjoy
  2. Hello! Yesterday I started new project - pattern welded pipehawk. It is my second attempt to forge pipehawk. I started with a sketch with dimentions: And then I cut pieces of steel for billet, one were made out of 50HF spring steel and S235 low carbon steel, and second out of 50HF and NCV1, Billets ready for forge welding, the bigger one have 30 layers and 1640 gram of weight, smaller one has 20 layers and 888 grams of weight. Few pictures of forging using power hammer, fluxing and heating up. Billets ready for grinding, cutting and welding After welding both have 120 layers, I marked and forged the bigger billet into the U-shape Now is time to forge the pipe: When the pipe is ready, I improved it's shape and then I cut out piece of smaller billet for a blade. When everything is alright, it's time for forge welding entire hawk. The pipehawk after forging: At the end of this day I finished the pipe on a lathe. Now it's weight is 890 grams. Enjoy
  3. Thanks all of you for appreciating my work, Your support is meaningful for me, also thank You for letting me join Your fire beard group, I wasn't even expecting that. It's a great honour. I promise I will keep working on interesting, demanding projects. Regards, Rafał Garbacik.
  4. Hi After a long time I have finally finished one of welded sabres. Handle is made out of polished brass, 1mm thick leather, and ash wood, the dimensions are the same as previous ones Regards, Rafał Garbacik.
  5. Thanks all of You Well, I like making photostories of my most challenging projects It will be great if it helps anyone with their own project
  6. I collaborate now, but I made also handles, and sheaths. Lately I just haven't got enough time for making handles, so I post only the blades that I made. But I hope it will change during this summer
  7. Only to the seax blade Maybe the black oak and silver on handle and sheath
  8. Hello, I would like to show you a few of blades that I welded in a last couple of months. Everything is welded from S235 low carbon steel and 50HF spring steel. Only axe is made of C45 steel and 50HF welded into the cutting edge. First I want to present viking sword blade, the core is made of 2 bars with separate sections of twist pattern and solid blades. It is 75 cm long, 5,2 cm wide and the thickness starts from the 7mm near tang and ends at 4mm at a tip. Next one is the long knife with wolf teeth blade, 42 cm long and 3cm wide. It is welded from 2 twisted bars, wolf teeth blade and solid thin plate on top. 2 little knife blades, with the simillar structure to the long knife. The small one's blade is around 7 cm long. And the last one, welded axe from the folded piece made of C45 and piece of 50HF inserted into the cutting edge. The handle is made of ash wood. Axe head is 14,7 cm long, cutting edge is 8,8cm long, and the handle is 56 cm long. The weight of the whole axe is 680 g. Regards and thanks for watching, Rafał Garbacik.
  9. Hello! Some time ago I have started the project of wolf teeth spearhead that Niels Provos had posted, and I discovered that in the middle of process So firstly, I want to show you ready spearhead, and then photos of process of forging step by step. Please enjoy and comment The spearhead's socket is 21cm long and blade is 45cm long and 7cm wide, socket is forge welded from old iron, blade is made of 50HF spring steel and low carbon S235 steel. Each teeth is welded from separate piece of tooth. Firstly , I drew the project in the 1:1 scale with every dimension: Then I cut the pieces from steel sheet for blades, twist and core. I used S235 and 50HF 2mm steel sheet. Billets ready for welding, 2 on the right are made of 20-layer only 50HF steel, next is made of 16 layer S235/50HF for twist and the last one on the left is made of 26-layer S235/50HF billet for the core. Now after the first welding, everything is ready for cleaning and cutting. The bar for blades was cut in 5 pieces, so after welding it has 100 layers, The billet for twist was cut into 2 pieces and there was added a solid piece of 50HF steel in the middle, and the bar for core was cut into 4 pieces, so after welding it has around 100 layers. the bars are ready and the longest one will be twisted into 4 separate pieces, on the left there is the test piece for socket to check the dimensions that i need for welding. Preparation of core, shorter pieces are made of s235, loger ones of 50HF steel for contrast. The bars for blades are cut into 3 pieces each, so now they will have 300 layers.. Core is ready and 2 billets are made of 2 pieces of twist There are 2 pieces of welded twist and a piece of bar made of old iron After cleaning and cutting I made a billet from old iron,and also I cut the twist and welded it on the core. The twist was welded with core, and old iron plate for socket is ready. I forged the blade bars into square, 2cmx2cm. Now i forge the shape of blades, after that I cut the teeth in it, and from the piece of round bar s235 I forged the bar, grinded it to shape that matches the teeth grooves, cut it into small pieces, placed it into the grooves and welded it to the blade. There you can see all of the pieces that were used for the welded spearhead. On the right there is the mandrel for welding the socket. Teeth welded into the blade bars. All of the pieces for the blade are welded and ready to forge, The plate for socket is cut and cleaned. And this is the blade after welding it into one piece. There is the plate after rolling it on the mandrel. And this is how it looks after welding process. I welded on the swage block, before welding I heated the mandrel up to the orange temperature, and when socket reached welding temperature, I placed the mandrel inside it and welded it on the swage block, after each welding I removed the mandrel, heated up the socket and so on. Then I welded the socket into the rest of the spearhead, grinded it and heat treated. This is how it looks after the heat treating. And ready for etching the spearhead. Regards, Rafał Garbacik.
  10. I have made another blade with better proportions, weight and pattern, Dimentions: 76 cm length, 59 mm width, 7mm thickness and around 800 grams of weight Before etching: And after etching: Regards, Rafał Garbacik.
  11. The blade is after grinding,The customer will make final grinding and etching. When the handle is made I will post a picture of it. I etched it lightly to show You the pattern and inscription The blade is 76,5 cm long (without tang), 56mm wide and 5mm thick at the crossguard. Regard and thank you for comments and supporting me
  12. I forget about it The thickness before welding letters and forging was 9mm thick and 35mm wide, after forging the fuller is 28mm wide, all blade is 63mm wide, after grinding the shape it must have around 58mm wide, and 5,5mm thickness in place where the inscription is Now the weight is 900 gram, after finish I want to get around 750-800 gram, blade without tang is 75-76 cm long
  13. So, due to that the blade was forge almost to the shape there is a small amount of material to grind off, so, to prevent lose material on fuller I first hardened the sword without grinding and now I slowly grind the fuller and then edges. I etched a little the pattern and it looks like that in this moment: In the next 2 days I want to finish this project and give the blade to the customer. He made the handle and scabbard
  14. Thank you all for your advice. It helped me a lot and I forged blade successfully First I forged the fuller a bit, then blades and the fuller again in high temperature. For heating I use my gas forge In the middle of forging: The die for fuller, and a stopper that let me forge a fuller only to the 3mm thickness in the middle of fuller And ready blade: Now I must carefully grind it and heat treat Kris, I think it is possible, the structure of letters on original blades shows that they are forged from one piece, so, in the blade you need only a shallow hollow groove and then forge right to the shape In that picture the structure of letters is easy to see Regards and once again thank all of You for help
  15. Photos of blade after welding: Everything welds good, so now is time for the hardest part, forging everything. I know that important is to forge in high temperature to prevent from delaminating. But what should I forge first? Edges and then fuller, or on the contrary? I don't want to damage the blade at this stage
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