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Steve Nowacki

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Steve Nowacki last won the day on May 4

Steve Nowacki had the most liked content!

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About Steve Nowacki

  • Birthday 08/10/1963

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  • Gender
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Interests
    My Family, Knife making, Martial Arts, good books, guns, camping, walking and hunting.

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  1. Steve Nowacki

    Custom Nakiri

    I bought three blocks of that stuff at least five years back Brian from some buddies of mine who run a company called Emberleaf. I can't remember what the blocks are called now. I decided to use it on that other Santoku I made because the customers were vegan and didn't want a buffalo horn bolster used. So I found this stuff out in my wood store, cut it into smaller blocks and now use this. It polishes beautifully, has the foil inside and all sots of flecks going on. I've got to try and source some more because once I've used what I have that's it.
  2. Steve Nowacki

    Custom Nakiri

    It's the first time I've tried it Alan, for some reason I didn't think I would be able to get one in this steel. Then I came across a thread from another forum about producing a hamon in 80Cr V2, so I had to give it a go.
  3. Steve Nowacki

    Custom Nakiri

    Ross the makers mark is etched in, I got the stencils from a gent called Ernie Grospitch from Florida.
  4. Steve Nowacki

    Custom Nakiri

    Thank you Charles I appreciate you taking the time to look buddy.
  5. Steve Nowacki

    Custom Nakiri

    Hi Gents I'm just putting the finishing touches to this Custom Nakiri, it has a blade from 80Cr V2 (1080+), the blade is 3mm thick on the spine, 175mm long with a full flat grind, the overall length of the knife is a tad over 300mm. The blade was coated with clay and differentially hardened, it's the first time I've tried to get a hamon in 80Cr V2 and I'm really happy with the results. I have to say that I'm starting to fall in love with this steel, it's a pleasure to work with, heat treats easily and gives a lovely finished blade. There's one nickel silver spacer with a black resin bolster which has foil cast into it. The handle is my own hybrid wood of stabilised oak burr cast in white Alumilite resin. This handle was the other piece left from the Santoku I posted on here a while back. Everything is held in place with one mosaic pin and the whole package weighs in at 194g. Thank you for taking the time to look, all comments and critique very welcome as ever. Steve
  6. Steve Nowacki

    Starting a New Bowie

    This is going to be great to follow, I'm looking forward to see how this progresses and seeing the finished knife.
  7. Steve Nowacki

    The Wolverine

    There you go Ben, that's something I hadn't thought about I'll have to give that a coat of looking at buddy. Thank you for taking the time to look and your comments gents.
  8. Steve Nowacki

    The Wolverine

    I think I agree with you about the para cord Ben. I'm going to carry and use this one and if that para cord gets in my way it's coming off.
  9. Steve Nowacki

    The Wolverine

    Hi Guys Just wrapping up some loose ends before the UK Knife show on Sunday. This harpoon point hunter has a laminated blade with an L3, (52100) core and Suminagashi 2 cheeks, blade length is 130mm, blade thickness is 5.5mm and the overall length of the knife is 250mm. The handle scales are python skin Micarta with red liners held with two stainless Corby bolts. The sheath is a wet moulded leather pancake style dyed black with Kydex rivets and a Tek-Lok belt clip. Thank you for taking the time to look, all comments and critique as always very welcome. Steve
  10. Steve Nowacki

    Completed Pair of Bowies

    Those are a beautiful brace of Bowies Gary. The way they look, IMHO I feel they would have looked much better on Alan Ladd's hip in the Iron Mistress than the one that was featured, they both ooze old world character. Steve
  11. Mathew go for it buddy you'll not look back it is the most iconic of blades.
  12. British tan, come on Joshua you know us Brits don't tan buddy. With eleven months of winter and only two weeks worth of sunshine when I expose my body I'm usually a lovely shade of powder blue and it takes me a week to turn white. The cut out for the finger ring is initially marked on the template Joshua then I drill the three point of the triangle with a 1.6mm drill. I then cut along the lines with a 1mm thick x 125mm diameter cutting disc making sure to finish 5 to 10 mm shy of my drilled holes. I finish the cuts with a hacksaw blade that way I can control the last part of the cut and make sure that I don't cut past my drilled holes. As you know using a cutting disc and trying to finish the cut flush especially when you are using just the edge of the disc is very hard. The triangular tongue which eventually becomes the finger ring is small and the margin for error is just as small, I try to take it slow and easy here. Thanks for your comments buddy and yes a big up to Wes and Alan for the pin I'm very honoured. These last few pic's are of the blade grind, the initial hand rubbed finish and the pieces that go to make up the sheath and one more of the completed knife and sheath together. Guys thank you very much for following the WIP and for all of your very kind and appreciative comments. Steve
  13. Thank you Alan you're a gent.
  14. Gents thank you for taking the time to look, I'm really glad that you're enjoying the ride. These next pic's are of the dry fit up of the handle, the antler after dying with the Fiebings mahogany leather dye and the split ring guard formed and gun blued.
  15. What I normally do Charles is drill the bolster first locating the pins in there because it's the thickest piece behind the guard and it's easier to get the holes square in this and hold it in the vice to drill on the pillar drill. Once the slot is drilled and filed and the bolster slips up and down the tang I make the spacers to fit either side of the bolster. When they are finished I put the first one on, put some yellow metal paint marker on the pins, push the bolster up to the spacer and let the paint mark where the holes need to be drilled. I repeat this with the back spacer and drill in my holes. Then I take the three pieces over to the belt grinder and grind the spacers until they match the outside profile of the bolster, the locater pins hold everything in place so they can be taken apart and put back together and will always match. The front spacer is a stand alone item which isn't pinned and the hand guard has to be made and the surface sanded so it's flat before it's slipped onto the tang and the bolsters and spacers slipped up behind it, the pins marked with paint and the holes located on the back of the hand guard. I then put tape on the handle mark lines on this so I can see the basic lines of the tang, drill out the centre and file until it slips on the tang and butts up against the bolster pins, mark where they land on the antler and drill in the holes around 5mm deep. The next pic's show continuing work on the guard and the hinged portion of the tang.