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Steve Nowacki

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Everything posted by Steve Nowacki

  1. Doug thank you for your comnents buddy. I did exactly like you said, hammered the copper, applied the liver of sulphur and sanded the high spots lightly back. You're also right about the good old British government. A knife is legal to carry if the blade is a max of 3" long or smaller and it is a non locking folder, e.g. friction folder. You would still havd to have good reason to have it on your person if stopped and searched. The new rules about buying from the internet and the banning of assisted openers just to mention a few new measures have muddied the waters beyond belief.
  2. Thank you for that Charles, the UK Knife show is on Sunday 30th of June have you any thoughts on attending. It would be good to put a face to your name and have a chat.
  3. Gerhard, thank you very much for your comments my friend, they really are very much appreciated.
  4. Thank you Joel, I fell in love with these after seeing one posted on this forum. Like I said I've been itching to make one and finally got the time to do it. For a prototype I'm really pleased how she turned out.
  5. I've been wanting to make one of these for ages and finally got around to it. The body of the knife is made from 2mm thick copper sheet which I've beaten and filed the top then applied liver of sulphur to patina the surface. The blade is made from Shiro 2 with a white paper steel core, blade thickness is 3mm, blade length is 75mm, that's cutting edge, overall length of the knife is 186mm and the closed length including the flipper is 135mm. I've called her Tombo, dragonfly, I hope you like her. Thank you for taking the time to look guys and all comments are really appreciated. Steve
  6. Very, very nicely done, there is a tremendous amount of fine detail work to be complete with this piece, I'm really looking forward to see how this turns out.
  7. Thank you for your comments Doug, I have to say that I love the way a san mai blade looks when it's finished, but it can break your heart when it doesn't weld properly. As you know you only get one chance with this stuff and if there's a problem with a weld and it goes ping it stays pinged. Steve
  8. Thanks Wes, I'm glad you like it buddy.
  9. Thank you for your comments Brian. Steve
  10. Evening gents The blade for this vest Bowie is 6" long and 3/16" on the spine, it has a core of 80Cr V2 which has been laminated with Hitachi Shiro 2 and outer layers of 431 stainless. I've not used these steels in this combination before and I was really pleased how the carbon in the stainless has migrated into the Shiro 2 layers. The steel single branch hand guard has been cold blued and the handle is a lovely piece of stabilised Hawaiian Koa held with one stainless pin, the overall length of the knife is 11 1/8". The double welted sheath has been dyed walnut, with a black patterne
  11. Cheers guys thank you for your comments. A little bit of mix and match Joshua has added to the overall feel of this piece.
  12. I would call this a drop point hunter Gerald, it's just a recognised style of blade shape really. You don't have to carry it into the field to do any work on game with it, this style of blade will excel at many camp tasks as well as bushcraft. Thank you for your comments guys and for taking the time to look at this piece. Steve
  13. Hi Charles Thanks for your comments buddy, here are a couple more shots of the knife from underneath, hope they help.
  14. Morning guys, here's some pics of this latest hunter off the bench. It's a bit of an unusual one for me. It has an L-3 (52100) blade, 120mm long, 4mm thick on the spine, overall length 255mm, brute de forge finger choil, Macassar ebony scales, inlayed with two bone escutcheons, with red liners held by two S/S Corbies, wet formed deep pouch sheath, dyed golden brown with a Moran style smiling moon in nickel silver.The reason for the Bill Moran theme is the pieces of bone were bought by the client from the shop sale after Bill Moran passed away so these with the forged finger choil and moon were
  15. Thanks guys for your continual appreciation over this piece. I'm glad you've enjoyed it as much as I did making it. Steve
  16. Thanks for that Wes. I have so many pic's of this build that I would love to turn it into a book maybe sometime in the future, but it's like a lot of things I just need to find the time.
  17. It's a pleasure Alan you're more than welcome buddy and thank you for your sentiments it means a great deal to me.
  18. Now to rivet the saddle to the back spring. This is the snap rivet tool held in the vice. The groove on the back of the spring here is to help the blade track nice and true when opening and closing the knife. Now to clean the blade up with successive finer grits of abrasive. The bucking bar here is used to support the antler taper and hold the rivet in place which will attach the back spring to the handle. This is the only place where the back spring is physically attached to the handle. The saddle is riveted to the back spring and then the sad
  19. It's tipping it down here so I've got some more time to load a few more pic's for this WIP. Just extending the notch on the back of the blade so it fits tighter with the back spring. Now the saddle is made from some thin M/S sheet and then coloured using plum browning solution. Making the small rivets which will hold all of the pieces together on the handle. This rivet actually goes through the antler and into the back spring and holds the back spring in place on the handle as can been seen in the lower picture. This round bar
  20. They look great, nice slim and slicey.
  21. Next instalment, I've taken a 3.25mm M/S welding rod and hammered it square ready to twist and make the finger ring on the top of the back spring. I'll run the torch along the bar and then twist. The next thing is to make some of the rivets that'll be used in the construction of the folder. Now for the brass crown which will sit on top of the saddle, just as a bit of decoration. Working the back spring, forming the finials each end and a little bit of file work.
  22. Cheers Alan, you are the man. I'll post some more tomorrow. Steve
  23. Here are a few more pic's to be going on with. This is just one of the adapted saws that I use to cut the groove into the taper. And the u-shaped clamp in use. Milling in the nail nick. A piece of leaf spring being cut which will be forged and used for the external back spring. A wooden template made so I can see that the shape of the spring matches the antler handle. Getting there. Dry fit up.
  24. I've been talking about posting these pic's in a different thread and have eventually gotten my act together. I haven't made one of these folders for a little while, but that doesn't mean to say that there isn't one waiting to be commissioned some time in the future. At this point I have to mention the book Antler and Iron 2 by Gene Chapman, because it was the writing of that little gem of a book that was the inspiration for me to make these style of folders. These first pic's are of the initial design of the folder and they show how I start to mark out the Sambar stag taper handle, this
  25. Start caulking that boat Charles I'm sorting through pic's at the moment buddy. Steve
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