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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

R.W. Deavers

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R.W. Deavers last won the day on July 22 2016

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About R.W. Deavers

  • Birthday 02/23/1974

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    Male
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    Roscoe, PA

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  1. Alan, I think I have him talked out of the S-7. That CPM S90V will be a definite NOPE for me, I personally don't care for stainless of any kind when it comes to forging.
  2. Hi all. Yeah, I know it's been a while since I last posted, but I have a serious project coming up and need some help (advice, opinions...). I have two rapiers to build and the client is asking about different steels, most notably S-7. I know 9260 has better flex but it's kind of hard to find, so, my question is this: What steel would be best suited for this job?
  3. If you look in the upper right hand corner, you'll see it. I used this blade for inspiration.
  4. Thanks. this is my first time ever using burl of any kind, and I must say, I'm really pleased how this came out, plus I learned a thing or two in the process, so it's a win-win for me...lol
  5. Another push dagger finished and shipped to the customer. The blade is made from leaf spring, the handle scales are redwood burl (which is a first for me), and the pins are 1/8" diameter brazing rod. The sheath was made by a good friend of mine who does all of my sheaths now.
  6. Here's my latest, a karambit. Normally, I wouldn't make these because I just don't care for this blade style, but a good client of mine asked so I made one. Most of the shape you see was forged out from a piece of leaf spring. Another first for me was bluing the blade as I have never actually blued any of my blades. The handle scales are walnut with 1/4" diameter brass pins.
  7. You nailed the rustic look. Love the handle work!
  8. Thanks, I'm pretty pleased at how these came out.
  9. I just finished these up this morning. After seeing me do another Bowie, my friend wanted me to make him a pair of smaller versions. The blade blanks were forged out from leaf spring scraps I had from previous projects, then shaped, ground, and heat treated. The brass guards are from some bar stock, and the handle material is walnut. My friend wanted true coffin style handles, which I haven't tried yet, but these came out nicely. I beveled the handles to mimic the old style coffins, so the handles now have an octagon cross section and an awesome hand feel.
  10. I know it's been a while since I've been on, but I just finished this commission piece. The customer wanted Bowie and instead of making just a regular one, I opted for something a tad bit different. I wanted to do a piece that paid homage to the original, but slightly updated. I came across a few pictures of one that was used during the battle of San Jacinto, Texas. The lines, shape and overall coolness sealed the deal. What you see here is my take on that blade, with some subtle changes. Instead of having 6 to 8 pins for the handle scales, I used 4, along with a brass guard and walnut scales. The blade is forged from leaf spring.
  11. For any of you interested, they are casting for season 4 of Forged in Fire on the History Channel. The contact for information is: Natalie.Sgro@leftfieldpictures.com.
  12. I agree with Geoff, a railroad spike would work perfectly for this, as long as it's a high carbon spike. The way to tell is to look for HC on the spike head. The reason I said high carbon is for cutting through roots, and if the heat treat is done right, the edges should last a good while.