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R.W. Deavers

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Everything posted by R.W. Deavers

  1. There are a few different variables to take into account about bevel geometry. One is the thickness of the blade along with the distal taper plus the width. Another variable is if you plan on having a fuller in the blade. My suggestion is to make your bevels however you feel makes sense to the blade. Also, keep in mind about the balance of the rapier. The closer you have the center of balance near the hilt, the better for control. While the blade edges don't need to be razor sharp, it is a good idea to have them sharpened. I think a safe bet would be to have your blade edges sharp for at least 12 inches to maybe a third of the length of the blade starting from the point. Now, as for the temper, yes, go for a spring temper. On a blade that long and narrow, you want some flex so the blade will bend upon contact then bend back to true. Think of a fishing pole, when you have fish hooked, the bend becomes more apparent near the tip. Once the fish is off, the rod will straighten back. And also remember that rapiers have some weight to them, they are not feather light. This is all my own suggestions.
  2. Thank you Mike. I do have more planned in the very near future.
  3. Funny thing about the handle, I had a basic idea of how I wanted the handle to look while I was working on the blade, but I didn't have any details ironed out or what material I was going to use. Once I finished the blade, I let the blade 'speak' to inspire the look and feel of the handle.
  4. Thank you, and overall the grind is not as deep as you may think, but I did manage to get the blade ground to almost paper thin to where it feels like the blade disappears, which is the gring I strive for.
  5. It's been a little while since I've posted anything on here, and I'm back. My latest build was this little straight razor. The blade is forged from a scrap piece of leaf spring with a dual and reversed twist in the tang. To add a small bit of flair, I did a bit of file work as well. The finish is gun bluing. The blade edge has a length of 2 3/4" with a bevel of 6/8. The spine thickness is 5/32". I used brass for the pins and the handle is oak with an angle grinder treatment then sealed with tung oil. Yes, this is hones and stropped. Is it normal for bladesmiths to be afraid of the edge they produce? lol
  6. Thank you, but I didn't set the stones, my good friend did (who also owns the knife). I do believe he made pockets in the brass then set them with epoxy.
  7. I know it's been a little while since my last visit here, let alone since I last posted. But this one I thought deserved to be posted. A good friend wanted a dress version of a knife I did for him a while ago. The blade style is a hybrid of a Bowie and a hunter type with a blade length of just under 6 inches with a through tang construction. The blade was forged from a piece of leaf spring. The guard, finger spacer, and pommel are brass. Between the guard and spacer is ebony then between the spacer and pommel is purple heart. The very same friend that wanted this knife did the stone work. In total, there is almost 10 carats of rubies. I have never worked with either wood before, so it was a nice break from the normal. Overall, I am rather pleased with this one, and so is my good friend.
  8. Yeah, another Bowie build. This is a customer order. The blade is forged from leaf spring, the guard and pommel are forged from railroad spike then finished and blued. The handle is spalted tamarind with leather spacers. This is the first time I tried a piece with blued pieces and I think it was the right call on this one.
  9. Thank you Zeb. Seeing that video was the best present I received today. To me, and I think to all smiths, that is the reason why we do what we do. And a Merry Christmas to you and yours!
  10. Longclaw is now home... Merry Christmas!
  11. And for today's progress... The blade had to go back into the forge to take care of a slight warp. The warp was spread out and too much to grind out, so I got it straightened and annealed (again). After all that, the cleanup work has begun along with the beginning of the bevel work.
  12. More progress made today. The blade now has a general profile with the start of hammered in bevels. I still have a way to go yet, but this is starting to look like something. I'm getting excited now.
  13. Thanks everyone. As for the distal taper, I'm after a nice, gentle taper along the entire blade with the end of the fuller almost disappearing into the central spine near the tip.
  14. My crusade has begun. With my interest in the Knights Templar and the beginning of the new show 'Knightfall', I finally decided to embark on the crusader sword. While the ones in the show have all of the engraving and enhancements, I will be trying to be more historically correct. The target overall length is about 39" with a blade width of 2 1/4" at the hilt. The fuller length will be about 2/3 of the length of the blade. The hilt will be a simple cross hilt and the pommel will be a simple medallion type. In the photo, you see what I started out with, a new leaf spring blank that was cut in half. I have one of the blade blanks roughly forged with more forging to go.
  15. Thanks Joshua, I couldn't be happier with this project.
  16. You're welcome, and thank you, Charles.
  17. Thank you. I tried to get close to his, but with a few minor artistic choices.
  18. And the moment everyone has been waiting for... Longclaw is finished. Reflecting back on this whole process, granted there have been some frustration (and what good project does have at least an ounce), but the journey has been well worth it. To be honest, I am so pleased with how this came out, I am humbled. Now, the specifics; the blade was forged from a leaf spring blank, the hilt and handle spacer are mild steel, the handle core is ash wrapped in black leather, and the pommel is cast and sculpted pewter with set rubies for the eyes. I could not have done this project without the help of a very close friend, Matt Maund. He has been instrumental will the leather, but mostly with casting the pommel and setting the rubies. The blade is 34" long and 2 1/4" wide at the hilt. The point of balance is about 4 1/2" from the hilt up the blade. The overall length is 45 1/4" and the handle itself is 5 1/2" long. The quillions are about three inches from the blade edge.
  19. The way this was cast was with sand casting techniques, otherwise, I would have rather had all the detail in the pattern.
  20. Okay everyone, here's an update on the progress. I finally got the pommel back from casting. Now, time for the engraving work. I had to forge my own tools for this, but it didn't take much time at all. I still have to layout a few more lines and the teeth, but things are going rather well. The finish is in view on this project.
  21. The blade is 38" long with a width of 2 1/4" at the hilt. The overall length is about 45".
  22. Thanks Zeb. As far as the wolf's head pommel, I'll try. lol
  23. I can post pics of the mold carving, but for the actual casting process, a good friend will be doing that.
  24. After a few touch-ups on the hilt, I made the collar spacer and the wood handle core. The handle is made from ash and will be leather wrapped. Now, I have a good idea on the size of the pommel, so I can now work on the mold form for casting.
  25. As more progress is made, I will.
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