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R.W. Deavers

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Everything posted by R.W. Deavers

  1. The old saying of 'forge thick, grind thin' applies to this build. I'm glad I left extra material on the blade for the heat treat process as it was needed for the cleanup and semi-finishing work. What you see here is the blade is semi-polished after a good cleaning up. I'd say this one cleaned rather well. Tomorrow begins the basket part of the project. So, to everyone that gave advice for the heat treating, especially Alan, I sincerely thank you.
  2. Thank you. With putting the blade into a tube for heat treating, I'm not sure the blade would get the right amount of heat needed, but I could be wrong though. This is my first rapier project, although I have made other swords, but nothing like this one.
  3. Thanks Alan. I love that blower. I wouldn't want anything else.
  4. I used the trough for tempering. Instead of putting the blade in the coals.
  5. Well, today was heat treating day for the rapier. I must say, my nerves have never been so frazzled over a heat treat. But, the good news is, this step is done. Tomorrow begins the cleanup and final grinding. In the picture, you see my hand cranked blower, the trough, and the vertical quench tank. The skinny piece in front and center of the trough is the rapier blade. The trough is made from 3/8" thick plate and the quench tank is 3/8" wall square tube.
  6. Thank you Alan. To me, this is priceless advice and I will take heed. Also, The only quench tank I have big enough is my vertical tank, so overall a few practice runs will be done (okay, maybe more than a few). Again, your input is GREATLY appreciated.
  7. Unfortunately no vertical heating, but I did take delivery of my coal fired trough forge today. A good friend of mine welded one up for me as he had the plate steel. The panels are all 3/8" thick with a 3" diameter air inlet. I still have some tuning to do to it and hope to have it up and functioning soon.
  8. The only answer I can give is; very carefully.
  9. More progress today. I got the bevels defined and did a basic cleanup. I still have another hour or so of some fine tuning then the nervous part... heat treating.
  10. No, this one and the next one are based from the rapiers from the Elizabethan era, so these will be ceremonial blades but still functional (sharpened).
  11. I started to grind the bevels in today. The work you see done is after about three hours, so yeah, I still have a good way to go yet. The only problem with a blade this long, one goes through abrasive materials, even on annealed steel.
  12. Yeah, this is going to be a challenging build, and my motto for this is 'slow and steady'.
  13. JJ, I thought about that, and right now, the blade thickness is about 1/4" or so.
  14. Thank you Steve. It seems it is so far, and hopefully this project will be as smooth as possible.
  15. As some of you may remember a little while back, I was asking about steel types for a rapier project. Well, I opted to use what I have on hand, spring steel. To refresh everyone's memory, I included pictures of my design drawings along with progress pictures. The design drawings show a general idea of what I want to accomplish. In the second drawing, I zoomed in to show the basket. The next pictures shows the start of the build. I started off with a long leaf and split it length-wise. Starting with the tang, I drew it out to roughly the shape and size I need then proceeded to start the blade taper. Next, I started to refine the shape on the anvil before any grinding. During this stage, I noticed what seemed to be a few small inclusions and possibly a small crack starting. Genuinely concerned, I chased the inclusions with an angle grinder and found the small crack and inclusions were only surface deep. Relieved, I decided to begin the cleanup grinding. During this part, the length of both the blade and tang was fine tuned. The blade length is 38" and the tang is 8" to give an overall length of 46". So far, I have about ten hours logged in for this. There will be more pictures as more progress is made.
  16. Alan, I think I have him talked out of the S-7. That CPM S90V will be a definite NOPE for me, I personally don't care for stainless of any kind when it comes to forging.
  17. Hi all. Yeah, I know it's been a while since I last posted, but I have a serious project coming up and need some help (advice, opinions...). I have two rapiers to build and the client is asking about different steels, most notably S-7. I know 9260 has better flex but it's kind of hard to find, so, my question is this: What steel would be best suited for this job?
  18. If you look in the upper right hand corner, you'll see it. I used this blade for inspiration.
  19. Thanks. this is my first time ever using burl of any kind, and I must say, I'm really pleased how this came out, plus I learned a thing or two in the process, so it's a win-win for me...lol
  20. Another push dagger finished and shipped to the customer. The blade is made from leaf spring, the handle scales are redwood burl (which is a first for me), and the pins are 1/8" diameter brazing rod. The sheath was made by a good friend of mine who does all of my sheaths now.
  21. Here's my latest, a karambit. Normally, I wouldn't make these because I just don't care for this blade style, but a good client of mine asked so I made one. Most of the shape you see was forged out from a piece of leaf spring. Another first for me was bluing the blade as I have never actually blued any of my blades. The handle scales are walnut with 1/4" diameter brass pins.
  22. Thanks, I'm pretty pleased at how these came out.
  23. I just finished these up this morning. After seeing me do another Bowie, my friend wanted me to make him a pair of smaller versions. The blade blanks were forged out from leaf spring scraps I had from previous projects, then shaped, ground, and heat treated. The brass guards are from some bar stock, and the handle material is walnut. My friend wanted true coffin style handles, which I haven't tried yet, but these came out nicely. I beveled the handles to mimic the old style coffins, so the handles now have an octagon cross section and an awesome hand feel.
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