-
Content Count
275 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
11
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Everything posted by R.W. Deavers
-
Steam punk might be just the ticket for the bottom one... hmmmm...
-
Thank you again, Alan. Like I said before, other than a few railroad spike tomahawks, I haven't tried a traditional one yet and this will be a good learning experience, so you're input is highly appreciated along with others.
-
I have a question for you all. I have some finished straight razor blades without handles as I am completely undecided on handle materials. I had the Victorian time period in mind on the middle blade, but the other two, I'm not too sure on. Any suggestions are welcome.
-
Alan, I may have another 'stupid' question. When you made yours, what size stock material did you start with?
-
Kevin, the area in question is the diamond on the side of the eye.
-
Hmmm...separate bowl piece with threads...That idea is looking to be a better route to take.
-
Alan, I want to sincerely thank you for the information. So, this is a pipe 'hawk then? I guess I was looking in all the wrong places for info. Looks like I have alot of work ahead of me, this ought to be fun.
-
Thanks Andrew, Overall, I am looking forward to this as well, but I am a little nervous also as I haven't attempted a build like this. We'll see how this goes.
-
Hello all. Tomorrow, I will be starting another project. This one's going to be a good one, which I need a little advice on. A good friend of mine wants a tomahawk based on the one in the movie The Patriot. From research I've done, it was supposed to be a peace pipe tomahawk given to Benjamin Martin from the Cherokee. My friend wants this to be a fully functioning piece. I have done one or two railroad spike tomahawks in the past, but nothing quite like this, although I have always wanted to. So, I am looking for any advice on this project. I will try to get as many photos as possible
-
That pattern pops! I also like your choice of wood grain pattern for the handle.
-
52100 kitchen carver? with interesting handle attachment.
R.W. Deavers replied to PederVisti's topic in Show and Tell
Nicely done! Clean lines and I love the handle! -
Thanks Professor, its appreciated.
- 11 replies
-
The pommel... Okay, the end of the brass flat bar I used was notched out to fit the tang. I then drilled a hole through the guard to match up the one I drilled in the tang. Once the fit was nice and snug, I drove a pin in to secure everything. During the design of the guard in this style, a spring effect was incorporated. The spring effect helps keep the wood scales tight and to reduce any rattling that might occur. Here's a diagram: d guard pommel assembly.bmp
- 11 replies
-
- 1
-
-
The blade has a thickness of 3/16", but with the blade bevel and false edge bevel mixed with the full tang and brass guard, the center of gravity is about a half inch or so in front of the guard.
- 11 replies
-
Thanks guys. Doug, the guard was made from 3/8" thick brass bar. Some precise material removal happened here. I'd say I had about 8 hours total just working on the guard, and half of that was fine-tuning for a correct fit.
- 11 replies
-
Thanks Gabriel. With the design like this, It took some time fitting the guard and the scales. Sure, it was tedious, but it was worth it.
- 11 replies
-
A little while back, a good friend asked me to make a saber. The design of the saber was based from combining a Confederate artillery saber with a Spartan sword. After it was finished, he decided he wanted a companion piece for it. He had always been a fan of Jim Bowie. What you see here is the result. The full tang blade was forged out of a leaf spring, and the D guard is brass. The handle scales are slightly charred walnut. The overall length of this knife is 16" with 10 3/4" long blade.
- 11 replies
-
As for the blade angle, I don't really think there's anything really set in stone, so I'd stick with what you're doing. As for the fuller, again, it depends on if you want a narrow fuller or a wide one. When I set my fuller in my khukuri, I laid out the fuller with a sharpie on both sides then used my fuller groove tool. Somewhere in the tools section is a thread for the groove tool. Other than that, you look like you heading in the right direction. Looks good so far.
-
Beautiful blade! The fuller really makes the pattern pop. Can't wait to see this one finished!
-
Wow! Now, this is interesting! Very cool project!
-
That's the reason why I changed it, Tim. I do plan on training with it and I wasn't comfortable with the hand-feel. And I think it actually looks better myself.
-
Brian, that's pretty much why I changed the handle...well, that...and the possibility of injuring myself...but yeah, now I don't have to worry about any police reports or hospital runs. Yeah, Now it feels complete and right.
-
I had to do a re-handle. The brass scales both in finish and design were not functional for actual use. I quickly came to this conclusion during testing as it almost slipped out of my hand, even with the kick-down style pommel. Never a good thing. I removed the brass scales and replaced them with walnut. I saved the hilt pieces, but had to make new pins for handle, which I figured I'd have to. Now, after a vigorous re-test, the re-handle was a much needed improvement.
-
I think either the axle or crankshaft should work relatively well for a hammer. When you get to that project, keep me posted.
-
Very impressive! Now that we all see how large it is, all I have to say is... well done!