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R.W. Deavers

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Everything posted by R.W. Deavers

  1. Just to keep everyone updated. I got the blade bevel lines in and the fuller groove as well. This was the first time I got to use my fuller tool on a good project. It takes a while, but it's worth the time.
  2. Thanks Kevin. Yeah, the guard took a while between taking a chunk out and getting everything to fit right. I just took it slow, and a good bit of patience didn't hurt either...lol
  3. More progress today. The blade bevels and fuller grooves are laid out with a Sharpie. I still have a long way to go before heat treating.
  4. lol Thank you. After my friend and I looked at the finished product, we both wondered why the fusion wasn't done before. To us, it seemed like a natural blend.
  5. It's kind of funny you said about the commish, that's exactly why I'm doing this one...lol
  6. I might this time, here's why:
  7. Started another project today. I had someone ask me about a Gurkha Khukuri with a blade of 9". I did a rendering for him and he okay-ed the job. Starting with a piece of leaf spring that's 2 1/2" wide, 5/16" thick, and over 15" long, I cut out the blank and rough shaped it. On the forge, I straightened (flattened) the blank then proceeded to finish the arc in the blade. After all that, normalizing was in order to relieve the stress and soften the steel. What you see is after a total of about 4 hours of work. I'm taking my time as mistakes cost more.
  8. The leaf spring was 2 1/2" wide and about 5/16" thick. I cut it to a length of about 32".
  9. Thanks Joshua. Like I said, this was hand forged, meaning no power hammer or press, just good old fashioned hammering.
  10. Thanks Alan. It took a while to get them there because like I said, I have never really done a blade this long before, so there was a learning curve.
  11. I know it has been a while since I posted anything new, but I wanted to share my latest work for a client. Normally, I name the work to kind of personalize it, but this time, the client chose the name. Here's how the project started. I was contacted by a good friend of mine about possibly making him a saber to open champagne bottles. He didn't have a regular type of saber in mind, he wanted something a little historic, but custom. After a nice conversation, he had the idea of combining a Confederate Artillery short saber with a modified Spartan sword. So after a few design changes on paper were agreed upon, work began. Keep in mind, this is the first sword/saber I have attempted. What you see above is 56 hours of work, not including mistakes. The blade was hand forged from a leaf spring and the D-guard made from 3/8" thick brass bar. The handle scales are walnut. Blade length overall is 27" with a total length of 31 3/4". This experience was a rather long one, but well worth it.
  12. Thank you Dave and Alan. I greatly appreciate the help on this subject. And Dave, I have a coal burning forge. Now, for my next question, what metals do you prefer to use for contrast in the pattern? I recycle materials that are kind-of readily available (spring steel, lawn mower blades, railroad spikes, etc...), so any further help will be appreciated as always, and thanks again.
  13. The only welder I have available is a 120v MIG with a no-bottle set-up, so for everything to go smoothly, looks like stainless is out, for now.
  14. As for general bladesmithing, I don't really consider myself to be a beginner, but along the aspect of pattern welding, I am. I have been trying pattern and forge welding for a while now (off and on for about 4 years). About two weeks ago or so, I finally had a successful piece. I am currently working on another blade. While working on my current blade, a friend wants a pattern welded knife using stainless steel. I have never tried it in pattern welding. I know that there are basically two kinds of stainless steels, magnetic and non-magnetic. My friend wants me to incorporate different kinds of steels along with the stainless. I'm not sure where to look so any help will be greatly appreciated.
  15. I really had to pay very close attention to the temperature for this. I just kept in mind what my dad always used to tell me, 'go slow and pay attention to what you're doing, not what's going on around you'. Thanks guys
  16. Thanks, guys. The more I worked on it, the more I wanted to keep it for myself, but I knew it was going to someone that will use it and not abuse it. The hand-feel was perfect before I even started on the handle scales. lol I love when knives do that. As for the sheath, I'm not sure. I do have some old brown leather pistol holsters laying around, so I might do something utilitarian. Yeah, this is one of my top five favorite blade designs.
  17. Here's a project for a friend of mine. He wanted a knife for wood carving and whittling. He showed me a picture or two of a design he wanted and I tried to recreate it with some modifications more suited to his needs. The design called for a lanyard hole in the handle, so I used a piece of copper tubing to go along with the copper pins. I haven't done a really nice blade in a while. Yes, the blade is full-tang forged from spring steel. The overall design is his and I didn't tweak it much. He wanted mahogany scales for the handle, which I never played around with before. This one was partial payment for some computer work I needed done.
  18. After quite a few failed attempts at making damascus style blades, I finally had one succeed. The steel used is 5160 spring steel and some medium carbon steel from the railroad. I have 64 layers total. The scales are made from Osage Orange, which is another first for me, and the pins are copper. I am rather pleased (and relieved) about how this one came out.
  19. The weight is actually lighter than a regular hatchet. To test it, I did some chopping on some saplings, feathered some sticks for kilning, did some carving, made a quick tent stake and pounded it into the ground, and it can be thrown if needed. And the handle is also rounded so it can still be used if you need the chord for something.
  20. I cut a section out of a truck leaf spring about a foot long by about an inch and a quarter wide. The area of the leaf spring used already had a nice thickness taper to it, so I used the thicker end for the blade and head. After straightening out the slight arc in the leaf, I bent about three and a half inches of the thicker end over 90 degrees and upset the bend. I then proceeded to draw out and shape the head and bend the worked my way down the handle. A little note, I didn't use any vice for the bending, I used the hardy hole. The whole hatchet has a thickness about 1/4". Sorry about not have WIP pictures. Once I get zoned into project, I lose track of everything else.
  21. After a few setbacks, I finally have figured out a true one-piece hatchet fit for camping, backpacking, survival.... The hatchet is hand forged from one piece of leaf spring with the handle wrapped in parachord. One of the design elements that the customer wanted was to be able to also throw it, so the weight distribution had to be factored in. Also, the blade is long enough to meet local legal carry laws. This hatchet can handle everything from wood carving to blazing to clearing saplings with one swing.
  22. You have reset the bar on craftmanship to the stratosphere. I think this is the most stunning thing I have seen. Beautiful, simply beautiful!
  23. Nice knotwork! Very sleek, awesome job
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