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  1. I’ll post a photo of one I did over the summer below. I’ve only carved two spoons since finishing it. But it carved nice and seems to retain its edge well. If I were you I would cut the point off of the one you forged. I started with a Mora hook knife that had that sharp tip. The only thing the tip was good for was puncturing the user.
  2. Joshua I learned that same technique from Matt Parkinson. As I learned it you cut the dowel halves flush with the handle in the end. They are then hidden with dye. If the video Ron is referring to is the one I think it is (simple little life) there will be a slotted bolster piece that the tang slides through that hides the round hole and dowel. I typed burn out the epoxy, but really you only need to get the metal hot enough to melt the epoxy. I suspect it is still messy and stink. I’ll find out in the next few days because I decided to try this process on a chef’s knife.
  3. How about using a piece of metal to burn the epoxy out just as you saw in the YouTube video? Then glue the wooden tang in
  4. Sounds like the first forge frame I welded. But the 110v welder I used was a Lincoln.
  5. I like it. Now I know what to do with that garage door spring a coworker gave me.
  6. What is the reason to go over with the sand paper before moving on to the next grit stone? Would it make sense to go through the various grit stones and only sand after the last stone to improve the finish?
  7. Check your cheeks with a pair of dividers to make sure they match prior to wrapping the eye. That way if the don’t match you’ll have a chance to correct it. Those cracks at the bend look like you moved it too cold. I’ve had this happen when I’ve been sloppy with where my tong arm is while spreading the eye, causing it to bend while my attention is on the hot part I’m forging. Or it could have happened when you did the wrap if it was too cold.
  8. Thanks for the info Charles Wu. Pu’er os my favorite tea by the way. I’ve always used a hammer to break up the cakes though.
  9. Love that little dragon striker with the fire drill divot in it.
  10. Stunning. I’ve never worked with copper. Maybe one day. Please tell more about the Cha Ze
  11. I bought the same file guide. It has held up for the two knives I’ve made with it. But I did not use power tools on it. Im also curious about gluing some carbide on one side so I can use it on the grinder. If I try it I’ll let you know how it works out.
  12. I’m going to tag along on this information journey. I love the aesthetic of the seax and will eventually try my hand at forging one when I’m ready to make something impractical instead of something I plan on being used. I say impractical because I am only familiar with seaxs that would be too large to carry nowadays.
  13. I’m working with a naturally aspirated ribbon burner using those plans as a starting point (he used a 3/4” burner and I’m using a 1/2” one so had to scale down the number of holes). I really like it. It’s very quiet. As in I can hear the hiss of the propane from the mig tip louder than the flames. And no hot spot. Im interested in how this burner works out too.
  14. Jake thanks so much for the explanation. I understand now.
  15. Jake I think what I’m calling a langet you’re calling a lug. The way I know how to make an axe the material spreads to both the top and bottom of the eye. What you’ve shown here the material only spreads below the eye and is flat at the top of the axe. Are you saying this was done with a ball peen? I use a fuller for the set downs and then spread the eye area with a cross peen.
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