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Jonathanbradshaw

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  1. I’m not seeing anything thicker than 0.25” listed. Do you sell any sizes that would be a appropriate for an axe? I’m thinking more like 1/2”-5/8” thick for a punch and drift axe.
  2. This is a great thread. I’ve thought about trying my hand at a folder but didn’t know where to even begin. Thank you
  3. If the person is making bags I am going to assume this is fairly thin (5oz or less) leather. I use a rotary cutter and straight edge for cutting straight lines in light weight leather. Just like I do for cutting fabric. But if you want something to make for them I would go more of a kiridashi type knife. Personally I would not want to use a round knife with a straight edge. Too risky if it jumps the edge.
  4. 1. Brian Dougherty 2. Gary LT 3. Aiden Carley-Clopton 4. Faye Lankister 5. Robert Dowse 6. Jonathan Bradshaw I made a bird and trout knife for submission. This is my first time participating. Alan alluded to WIP threads and I didn’t realize I was supposed to create one of those. So if that disqualifies me that’s okay. My work is not nearly as good as the other entrants, but I learned some good lessons in making this.
  5. If you are going to try to drift the eye after the weld it helps to clamp the work piece in a vise, right in front of the eye. This will help support the weld. But like Alan said, you shouldn’t try to stretch it and should only be fine tuning things. I’ve never forged (or even held) a socketed axe. But one is high on my list of projects I want to try.
  6. End of November works for me. I need deadlines.
  7. I’m a little late to help but I got one from a paint store a little while back. I had to call a few locations to find one though.
  8. I like a thinner handle on my axes. Some of the old handles I’ve found make the ones available in stores now feel like clubs by comparison. Have you tried cleaning up the inside of the eye with sand paper before filing? Cut a slot in a piece of round rod lengthwise and insert a piece of old grinder belt or sand paper and then chuck it up in a drill so it spins.
  9. Thanks for the insight. I would not have thought of using it for parts on my own. But if the parts are cheaper than the used kiln there is no reason to make this purchase. I’m not sure I have the time to build my own anyway (two young children so limited hobby time and I’d rather spend it forging than making an oven). In the meantime I’ll continue using the forge for heat treat.
  10. Thanks Alan. So I need about an inch of clearance at each end. A limit of 7” total is pretty restrictive. Getting creative I could be able to get up to about a 12” of workable space (front bottom left to rear top right). But I don’t think this would be a worthwhile purchase given the limitations and cost. For $50 though I would jump on it. On a a side note. The possibility of asking a question like this without being ridiculed for not already understanding the subject you are asking about is one of the reasons this is a great forum.
  11. Shows how much I know about kilns. That was how the add describes it and says to google the details. It did include a photo of the back plate with the following info: model E-9t. Part number 09211J1BTA when I searched for the words in the title of this thread it brought up a kiln in the first few hits that is visually similar to the one in the ad. That was what I based the internal dimensions comment on. Using the part number it seems to be smaller, but I don’t know if that’s a problem.
  12. Any thoughts on using a paragon sentry xpress 4 kiln for heat treat? The internal dimensions of the chamber are similar to some of the commercially available heat treat ovens. But not ever having used a heat treat oven, or seriously researched purchasing one, I’m not sure if that is what I should be looking at. The reason I am considering this is there is one available locally that they are asking $600 for.
  13. Thanks to both of you for the explanation. I’m a pharmacist, not an engineer. So my education in electricity is basic physics more than20 years ago. And I just can’t find the time to read about everything I want to know more about. Alan I do not have a VFD to experiment with. I’m currently trying to decide if I should retrofit my Bader B2 with a VFD and new motor, or buy a whole new grinder. I would really like to be able to slow the belt speed down a bit sometimes.
  14. After that description it makes me wonder if a capacitor start motor would run off a VFD if the capacitor were removed.
  15. Thanks Alan. That’s what I thought. But having only worked with stabilized wood once I wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something if these finishes would improve the end product.
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