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Everything posted by Jonathanbradshaw

  1. Following along. I’ve wanted to try scissors for a while
  2. I have done a fair amount of spoon carving, but am no expert. I have used head weights from 10 oz to 2 lbs. For most of the work 2 lbs was too heavy for my liking, but it is better for splitting. The 10 oz is great for spoon work but would be small for other stuff. I have never carved spoons with a single bevel but have used one for carving canoe paddles. The one I have is heavier than I would like to use in a spoon, but I think a single bevel would work well. In a double bevel it would work better with less convex on the edge. The convex makes it harder to get as accurate of a cut because it has to be positioned too get past the convex to cut. I can’t comment on the pole from experience.
  3. Check out the hardy hammer by Christ centered ironworks on youtube. I bought the plans and built one, but haven’t had much chance to use it. I built it with the optional tooling holder base and it is stable with the base. It wobbles without it. But that it is probably due to my poor building skills (I can fix the wobble by shimming the base against the side of the anvil).
  4. This looks like a great class. I second Dan in saying I would go to this class if it was done at NY arc and flame center, or Adirondack Folk School
  5. When I first started drilling holes for stitching sheathes I would have the opening to my right and tip end to my left (side to side). Wandering holes was a common problem. Switching to having an end facing me considerably improved that. I do this on a bench top drill press and get my eyes down level with the sheath to align things. Most of the holes end up just where they belong, and none fall totally outside of what should be the groove in the back. I groove and wheel the front of the sheath prior to drilling the holes. I groove the back after the holes are drilled. That way I can adjust the groove for a hole that would fall on the edge of the groove if it were made first.
  6. I’m definitely following this. An old friend asked me to make an oyster knife for him and I haven’t been sure where to begin.
  7. I picked one up over the summer. So far I like it but I do not have experience with other presses. I do like that it is very simple to make new die plates. I am still tooling up to make punch and drift axes on it. I keep thinking I'll do a step using a hand held top tool, then realize I should just take the time to make a die instead. And as the others have pointed out it is LOUD when running. But quieter than a power hammer.
  8. Do any of you have experience with PS Stubs files from England? I came across what’s listed as NOS 14” mill bastard file on ebay.
  9. Tim I actually ordered the Uncle Al's press last week. Same logic on the tonnage/$ and ease of fabrication for dies. What was really pulling me towards the Coal iron press was the casters since I work in a one car garage and have to be able to move things out of the way so my wife can park in the winter. I called Riverside Machine and they said they could add casters so I placed the order. He told me the price was going up after Blade show, so I got in right on time.
  10. I’ve been in the fence about ordering this press vs the coal iron 16 ton press. Any advice on how you picked one out?
  11. I have never made a handle like that but I have made a tapered spiral. Wrap the material tight like a snail shell and then pull the center out when hot. The handle would need two spirals to get the front and the back.
  12. I’m not seeing anything thicker than 0.25” listed. Do you sell any sizes that would be a appropriate for an axe? I’m thinking more like 1/2”-5/8” thick for a punch and drift axe.
  13. This is a great thread. I’ve thought about trying my hand at a folder but didn’t know where to even begin. Thank you
  14. If the person is making bags I am going to assume this is fairly thin (5oz or less) leather. I use a rotary cutter and straight edge for cutting straight lines in light weight leather. Just like I do for cutting fabric. But if you want something to make for them I would go more of a kiridashi type knife. Personally I would not want to use a round knife with a straight edge. Too risky if it jumps the edge.
  15. 1. Brian Dougherty 2. Gary LT 3. Aiden Carley-Clopton 4. Faye Lankister 5. Robert Dowse 6. Jonathan Bradshaw I made a bird and trout knife for submission. This is my first time participating. Alan alluded to WIP threads and I didn’t realize I was supposed to create one of those. So if that disqualifies me that’s okay. My work is not nearly as good as the other entrants, but I learned some good lessons in making this.
  16. If you are going to try to drift the eye after the weld it helps to clamp the work piece in a vise, right in front of the eye. This will help support the weld. But like Alan said, you shouldn’t try to stretch it and should only be fine tuning things. I’ve never forged (or even held) a socketed axe. But one is high on my list of projects I want to try.
  17. End of November works for me. I need deadlines.
  18. I’m a little late to help but I got one from a paint store a little while back. I had to call a few locations to find one though.
  19. I like a thinner handle on my axes. Some of the old handles I’ve found make the ones available in stores now feel like clubs by comparison. Have you tried cleaning up the inside of the eye with sand paper before filing? Cut a slot in a piece of round rod lengthwise and insert a piece of old grinder belt or sand paper and then chuck it up in a drill so it spins.
  20. Thanks for the insight. I would not have thought of using it for parts on my own. But if the parts are cheaper than the used kiln there is no reason to make this purchase. I’m not sure I have the time to build my own anyway (two young children so limited hobby time and I’d rather spend it forging than making an oven). In the meantime I’ll continue using the forge for heat treat.
  21. Thanks Alan. So I need about an inch of clearance at each end. A limit of 7” total is pretty restrictive. Getting creative I could be able to get up to about a 12” of workable space (front bottom left to rear top right). But I don’t think this would be a worthwhile purchase given the limitations and cost. For $50 though I would jump on it. On a a side note. The possibility of asking a question like this without being ridiculed for not already understanding the subject you are asking about is one of the reasons this is a great forum.
  22. Shows how much I know about kilns. That was how the add describes it and says to google the details. It did include a photo of the back plate with the following info: model E-9t. Part number 09211J1BTA when I searched for the words in the title of this thread it brought up a kiln in the first few hits that is visually similar to the one in the ad. That was what I based the internal dimensions comment on. Using the part number it seems to be smaller, but I don’t know if that’s a problem.
  23. Any thoughts on using a paragon sentry xpress 4 kiln for heat treat? The internal dimensions of the chamber are similar to some of the commercially available heat treat ovens. But not ever having used a heat treat oven, or seriously researched purchasing one, I’m not sure if that is what I should be looking at. The reason I am considering this is there is one available locally that they are asking $600 for.
  24. Thanks to both of you for the explanation. I’m a pharmacist, not an engineer. So my education in electricity is basic physics more than20 years ago. And I just can’t find the time to read about everything I want to know more about. Alan I do not have a VFD to experiment with. I’m currently trying to decide if I should retrofit my Bader B2 with a VFD and new motor, or buy a whole new grinder. I would really like to be able to slow the belt speed down a bit sometimes.
  25. After that description it makes me wonder if a capacitor start motor would run off a VFD if the capacitor were removed.
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