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  1. I love your work, and your integrity. Keep posting when you finish your pieces, I love to view your work, you are one of my favorite smiths, I call it top drawer stuff. Thanks again. Timothy
  2. Thank you for your continued creation of art expression. Simple, elegant, and powerful. Very hard to exhibit all three. You capture the essence of all three with each piece. I love your work. It inspires me. I can look at it for a long time and still see new aspects I didn't see before. Thank you. Timothy
  3. Jon, I am teaching at the ABS school in Arkansas in September. They offer a scholarship all you need to do is apply. The bunk house is affordable and you can eat at the bunk house. You would be surprised how much you learn under schooling. You gain a 10 year head start off your learning curve. I would love to spend time with you during these two weeks. I go for both weeks so I will be looking for you. Timothy Potier I have been following the progress two of the students at the school and they are growing by leaps and bounds. If I can help let me know.
  4. I have been able to straighten after tempering. I use a straightening jig, I overcompensate about twice the warp in the opposite direction put it back at tempering temperature for 20 or so minutes then take it out and let cool. it should straighten first time. Some times it requires repetition moving a little each time. What I like about this method is that you don't have to use any local heat leaving the temper line alone. On small blades I quench out of oven while it is overcompensated into a bucket of water blade jig and all . I talked to Howard Clark several years ago and he said using water isn't necessary that it is mortensite that is dissipating. I don't remember is that was the correct terminology that Howard Clark used but you get the point. I continue to have success using this method on all my knives that are warped and have only had success, no failures.I have once had a very thin ladder pattern damascus blade that was warped like a snake on the edge. I used my jig and overcompensated the s curve in the opposite direction. It took twenty quenches before the blade was perfectly straight. I hope this helps. I have a picture of my straightening jig on Don Foggs web site. Timothy
  5. I have heard of suffering severe headaches from breathing fumes from grinding titanium spacers in making folders.Has anyone experience similar reactions. Sounds dangerous. Thanks for the education of working unfamiliar metals. Timothy
  6. When I see your name I hurry to open your post. Nice LINE and execution. A lot of thought is revealed in your work. Simple, elegant, powerful, your work captures all three consistently. I hope to meet you one day. Timothy
  7. I have a picture of the jig in Don Foggs tools. I used a 2 x 4 1/4 inch metal tube. I cut the top of the 2 inch side and made a c or u. I drilled 1/4 by 20 screw holes every 1 1/2" along both sides It is better to drill both sides at the same time that way they are lined up. I put a flat spacer facing the blade in front of the screw. This prevents dimpling the blade when appling pressure to hold the blade. This method was first used to straighten warped blades by clamping them straight then drawing the back with a torch three times. The edge was placed in a pan of water 1/4 inch to protect the blade. I wick the water up the tip by placing a rag in the water and putting against the tip. I had a blade with a hamon that was warped so I tried the method of over compensating the blade past center and placing it Each time it move a little. It took 20 times until the blade was perfectly straight. I even took a twist out of a cable blade by drilling and taping 1/2 inch below where the top wholes and screws were drilled. I used the same method of over compensating and it worked. I hope you are as pleased as I have been with this straightening jig. Timothy
  8. Kevin, I create hamons with W-2. I temper the blade to 475 degrees F so the blade will be serviceable. If the blade is a little warped I use my straightening jig. I clamp the blade and overcompensate the blade past center up to 1/2 inch or more. I put the jig and the blade in the oven at the drawing temperature, which is 475 degrees F. I let it heat up for 1 hour then quench it in water everything blade in jig. I remove the blade from the jig and some times the blade is perfectly straight the first time. If it is not straight I repeat the process until it is straight. I straightened a blade after using this process 20 times. I love it and it works. I talked to Howard Clark and Howard said he doesn't think quenching the blade is necessary, he thinks air cooling is all you need. I never have let it air cool since quench has worked fine for me. I hope this helps. The hamon has always remained and really is vivid. Timothy
  9. Ric, Tell Anton Hi for me. He was a great student in Arkansas. He is turning out to quiet a smith with so many talented makers giving him input can't wait to see his products. Ric one day I will have to visit you also. Thanks for the post Ric. Timothy
  10. tpotier


    I always look forward to your posts, Your work is recognizable yours yet each piece is remarkable unique. Your work inspires me. Do you ever come to the USA and demo , for whats that worth do you demo ever in Europe. Timothy
  11. I like the look of the flat diamond.The diamonds are formed with 60 degree cutters, the points are flat. If you use 90 degree cutters you will get sharp pointed diamonds. I bought a starter kit from brownells. I had to buy a few extra cutters to complete the tools. I would say a single line 60 degree cutter and a 60 degree double line cutter and a v groover and you are in business. You can add or replace with 90 degree cutters if you want the points sharp. I use 20 lines per inch. 16 lines per inch is the widest. I think the searles bowie checkering was done with a skip line cutter. As for as bone or ivory I would say the cutters should do just fine. I saw Harvey Dean MS did a nice ivory handle knife that was stunning. His points were sharp. You might email him for info, I don't have any experience with either of these medium. Timothy
  12. I had a client request a checkered handle. I practiced on 5 practice handles before I began on the actual handle. It took me 20 hours to do one side. After checkering 5 knife handles I am down to 7 hours a side. The way you start is you make a diamond template.The diamond is 2 inches tall in the middle and 7 inches long in the length. The diamond is 3 1/2 times its width. This template is what the thousands of diamonds you are making will look like. I draw my pattern right on the knife handle. Once the pattern is drawn the two master lines are established on the pattern. I take the diamond template and place one end of the point in the center of the knife pattern. Trace the two edges of the diamond then extend these lines to the edge of the pattern. These are the two master lines from which you will cut one line at a time. I like to use 60 degree cutters. You want to gradually deepen your pattern. I cut about 1/2 the depth of the final pattern then after the entire handle is completed you then cut over to the final depth. Do not over shoot the border. When you are approaching the edge of the pattern which you have cut with your v groover or veiner, lift up the cutter and point the tip at the edge then draw back toward the line you just cut. I like african blackwood to checker on. Remember do not over shoot your border. If you do sand it off then start over. Shine your light to either the right or left of your handle this casts a shadow and really shows up the groove dramatically. Work your cutter perpendicular to your line you are cutting. I use a plastic ruler to draw lines on my handle. A plastic ruler will draw a straight line on a curved surface. I have just given you a one week handle checkering work shop. I hope I helped and if you have any questions send me an email. Timothy
  13. Kyboy, Thanks for the advice. I will take it to heart. I will send pics when I have a camera. Timothy
  14. KYBOY, I have been making a couple trade axes, tomahawk, similar to the style of your rasp ax. Thank you for your candor in declaring that your clean welds and tight fit didn't occur from the beginning. This gives me hope that one day mine may look as good as yours. Timothy
  15. This piece compliments your original creation beautifully. I simply love your work. Thank you for sharing your work with us. Your name is synonymous with your work. When I see your name posted I get excited and continued to be amazed. Timothy
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